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black_box

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About black_box

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  • From
    NYC, USA
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    '00 Boxster S, in black
  1. This sucks.... but, let me know if you wind up wanting to sell your hardtop.
  2. Plugs are all tight. noise is definitely coming from engine. Also the noise is dependent on crankcase load, not on throttle.
  3. I've developed an intermittent squeaking noise from the front left part of my engine head (around the #4 cylinder, I believe) after performing an IMS replacement on my 5 chain 3.2 motor. After IMS / Clutch, I replaced the gearbox and drove off for a couple miles, heard the noise and drove back, the car's been laid up since. It only presents with load, and can be heard when blipping the throttle from idle, and also when accelerating or even just engaging the clutch against the brakes. It does not seem to be present when engine is at steady or falling RPM (except via slipping clutch method). This video of the noise persisting was made by slipping the clutch a bit against the parking brake to load the engine a little: Things I've tried that have not made noise go away: removed exhaust except for manifold removed serpentine belt (rules out water/PS pump/belt) removed transmission (not clutch) changed flywheel removed oil fill cap (AOS not leaking vacuum) changed out IMS bearing AGAIN removed ignition fuse and turned over engine using starter w/ plugs in None of these have made the noise go away. I should mention, I had to do A LOT of banging on the IMS shaft itself with impact driver to remove a stuck-on installation tool nut. I am hitting the end of my rope. Please help.
  4. Finishing clutch / IMS job up today, after having to leave town for a month after starting it. Pretty sure it's important to get the cam tensioners back into the right positions. Does anyone have any photos showing which flywheel-side tensioners are left and right?
  5. I love my TPMS..... I spent $150 to install an aftermarket unit, just so my grin can get bigger as I watch the tire temp/pressures rise ;)
  6. Droplinks fixed it, although my left side camber may now be a little off....
  7. I wound up with 235/40 & 275/35 pilot super sports, they feel pretty good, although the car has a little bit more understeer now.
  8. I used a NAPA sourced rebuilt OEM pump, with no problems after 20k miles - it had a plastic impeller. I've found that reputable domestic aftermarket manufacturers like NAPA and Moog to be a good source for quality parts, and way, way cheaper than OEM. It's the same stuff I've been using since I started working on cars back in high school. They usually offer a lifetime warranty, and that's the part I get. No problems so far.
  9. I got under there yesterday with a crowbar and started applying force to different suspension components. My driver's side stabilizer droplink made a distinct creaking / popping sound when displaced, whereas the passenger side did not. It is my prime suspect. I ordered a set of front droplinks from Rockauto and will install this Fri/Sat. I'll post results here.
  10. Has anyone ever had their crossdrilled rotors machined? Mine are a bit grooved, and I'd like to freshen them up and change pads for summer.
  11. I stand corrected, although I dispute the claim that I don't drive it hard enough! :D
  12. This may be a bit out there, but some of the symptoms described are the same as I was having with my car with a burnt up coil pack, but before they got really bad and started setting off the flashing misfire light. It would run fine until warmed up, which is probably when the coil or housing expanded enough to lose contact. Before any CEL's started occurring, the bad coil manifested as a roughness under load, and loss of power across the rev range, but especially low rpms. For an inexperienced driver, this could make shifting a real pain. I found myself shifting super late to compensate for the lack of torque. Idle was not compromised at all, although I'm sure it would have been if I'd continued to drive it that way. Worth checking out, clipod. Did you do coils and plugs at your 60k service? BTW - 200 degrees is HOT for these engines. You really shouldn't drive it at that temp, aluminum motor and all.... Are you sure it's reading that? My needle (2000 Box S, stock) points at the "0" in 180 and NEVER moves, even last summer in 110 degrees driving 110 mph in the desert.
  13. Need new summer rubber on my 2000 Box S bone (stock suspension and wheels). Currently has stock 225/40/18 and 265/35/18. Thinking of going to 235/40/18 and 275/35/18 for a bit more ultimate grip (rear end came out on me last summer in the mountains) and for more rim protection when parallel parking (not daily driver though). Tires will probably be Pilot Super Sports, driven hard out-of-town, roadtripping and some DEs. Experiences, opinions?
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