Jump to content

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses

Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help...  THANK YOU!

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by black_box

  1. This sucks.... but, let me know if you wind up wanting to sell your hardtop.
  2. Plugs are all tight. noise is definitely coming from engine. Also the noise is dependent on crankcase load, not on throttle.
  3. I've developed an intermittent squeaking noise from the front left part of my engine head (around the #4 cylinder, I believe) after performing an IMS replacement on my 5 chain 3.2 motor. After IMS / Clutch, I replaced the gearbox and drove off for a couple miles, heard the noise and drove back, the car's been laid up since. It only presents with load, and can be heard when blipping the throttle from idle, and also when accelerating or even just engaging the clutch against the brakes. It does not seem to be present when engine is at steady or falling RPM (except via slipping clutch method). This video of the noise persisting was made by slipping the clutch a bit against the parking brake to load the engine a little: Things I've tried that have not made noise go away: removed exhaust except for manifold removed serpentine belt (rules out water/PS pump/belt) removed transmission (not clutch) changed flywheel removed oil fill cap (AOS not leaking vacuum) changed out IMS bearing AGAIN removed ignition fuse and turned over engine using starter w/ plugs in None of these have made the noise go away. I should mention, I had to do A LOT of banging on the IMS shaft itself with impact driver to remove a stuck-on installation tool nut. I am hitting the end of my rope. Please help.
  4. Finishing clutch / IMS job up today, after having to leave town for a month after starting it. Pretty sure it's important to get the cam tensioners back into the right positions. Does anyone have any photos showing which flywheel-side tensioners are left and right?
  5. I love my TPMS..... I spent $150 to install an aftermarket unit, just so my grin can get bigger as I watch the tire temp/pressures rise ;)
  6. Droplinks fixed it, although my left side camber may now be a little off....
  7. I wound up with 235/40 & 275/35 pilot super sports, they feel pretty good, although the car has a little bit more understeer now.
  8. I used a NAPA sourced rebuilt OEM pump, with no problems after 20k miles - it had a plastic impeller. I've found that reputable domestic aftermarket manufacturers like NAPA and Moog to be a good source for quality parts, and way, way cheaper than OEM. It's the same stuff I've been using since I started working on cars back in high school. They usually offer a lifetime warranty, and that's the part I get. No problems so far.
  9. I got under there yesterday with a crowbar and started applying force to different suspension components. My driver's side stabilizer droplink made a distinct creaking / popping sound when displaced, whereas the passenger side did not. It is my prime suspect. I ordered a set of front droplinks from Rockauto and will install this Fri/Sat. I'll post results here.
  10. Has anyone ever had their crossdrilled rotors machined? Mine are a bit grooved, and I'd like to freshen them up and change pads for summer.
  11. I stand corrected, although I dispute the claim that I don't drive it hard enough! :D
  12. This may be a bit out there, but some of the symptoms described are the same as I was having with my car with a burnt up coil pack, but before they got really bad and started setting off the flashing misfire light. It would run fine until warmed up, which is probably when the coil or housing expanded enough to lose contact. Before any CEL's started occurring, the bad coil manifested as a roughness under load, and loss of power across the rev range, but especially low rpms. For an inexperienced driver, this could make shifting a real pain. I found myself shifting super late to compensate for the lack of torque. Idle was not compromised at all, although I'm sure it would have been if I'd continued to drive it that way. Worth checking out, clipod. Did you do coils and plugs at your 60k service? BTW - 200 degrees is HOT for these engines. You really shouldn't drive it at that temp, aluminum motor and all.... Are you sure it's reading that? My needle (2000 Box S, stock) points at the "0" in 180 and NEVER moves, even last summer in 110 degrees driving 110 mph in the desert.
  13. Need new summer rubber on my 2000 Box S bone (stock suspension and wheels). Currently has stock 225/40/18 and 265/35/18. Thinking of going to 235/40/18 and 275/35/18 for a bit more ultimate grip (rear end came out on me last summer in the mountains) and for more rim protection when parallel parking (not daily driver though). Tires will probably be Pilot Super Sports, driven hard out-of-town, roadtripping and some DEs. Experiences, opinions?
  14. Now that the misfire issue is cleared up, on to 2nd biggest problem: the car has an annoying "clunk" rattle sound coming from the driver's front side over low speed bumps / potholes. No play or noise in steering when pulling side to side on flat, but as soon as road gets bumpy (all the time in NY) the clunking starts. Has been this way since I bought it, and can't honestly say whether it's gotten worse, although I am getting more fed up with it, plus I want to eliminate any possible safety / handling dangers. On visual inspection / poking around on the lift, nothing seems bent, cracked, or loose. What should I be looking for? Thanks in advance!
  15. Replaced coil #1, and now it runs like a Porsche again! Pulls smoothly with more power than I've had since roughness began. I can pull away in 2nd again, whereas before I couldn't shift until 15 without bucking. Thanks for the input guys.
  16. coils arrive tomorrow and I've scheduled lift time at my garage... fingers crossed it will work.
  17. Nothing is particularly pointing towards vacuum leaks, but I'd like to eliminate that as a cause if the coil packs don't fix it.
  18. Just ordered a full set of coil packs from Pelican, hopefully they will work. Any suggestions on how best to check for vacuum leaks while I am working on the car.
  19. My 2000 Boxster S w/105k (body) 40k (engine) is acting up. Last fall, I got caught in downpour and inches of standing water, getting splashed hard by other cars. The CEL started flashing and the car was nearly impossible to drive past 3rd gear (no power and bucking) until I could get off freeway to let it dry out. It had several misfire codes set. Ever since then, it's been a little less smooth than I had been accustomed to, and now it is misfiring and bucking below about 2600 RPM all gears, all temps, but ONLY with high throttle opening (e-gas). Tipping the throttle in seems to be fine. High RPM seems ok, if maybe a little weak. If you keep the throttle open under the misifiring conditions, it will cause a flashing CEL, although it will not stay on. Stored codes are P0300, P0301. Previously, the secondary air injector and catalyst codes have set the CEL, but it went away on their own (this was after driving on a very dusty road last fall). Car is stock, except desnorkel. Half of exhaust was disconnected recently for wheel bearing replacement, but this problem predates that job. Have changed plugs, cleaned MAF, cleaned throttle body. Most of the coils are cracked, but not bad enough to see inside -- I epoxied them. Problem seemed to clear up after changing plugs, but then came back on next drive. I suspect bad coil(s), also MAF or vacuum leaks. My understanding is that the coils should have about 40k miles on them (same as engine), but they do look pretty rough. I am ordering coils, but want to make this problem go away permanently without playing the blind remove and replace game -- what else should I look at? I will disconnect the MAF and drive around to see if that helps and do a propane vacuum leak check as well when the engine lid is off. Thanks so much guys, Cary (photo is from Utah, 3k into my 10k mile summer roadtrip last year, car was awesome!)
  20. Bought my 2000 S at 89k last April as an early 30th birthday to myself. It had had it's motor swapped out for a 25k donor at 85k, the transmission rebuilt, AOS replaced, cabrio top R&R, and a single wheel bearing R&R. It immediately chewed up it's water pump once I had driven 4 hours into the sticks for a friends wedding in which I was best man. The father of the bride and I fixed it at a gas station with an overnighted NAPA unit, miscellaneous hand tools purchased at the local walmart (only place around) and the jack pulled out of someone's F-150. We received a round of applause after arriving back at the wedding 1 hour ahead of the ceremony after fixing the car everyone said would have to be towed back to the city. After the water pump, I did a brake job and oil / plugs / filters change and then took the car on a 10,000 mile solo roadtrip across the U.S. and Canada. I drove the absolute hell out of it -- triple digit blasts through every mountain range from colorado to canadian rockies and all the way down to southern california. My only problems were a couple of impact sidewall bubbles from rough roads that caused me to have to replace tires, some brake screeching that went away with hard use, an exhaust rattle that was fixed by tightening up the fasteners, and the development of a loose axle nut, which recently diagnosed and tightened. After getting back to New York, I got caught in an intense downpour on the Henry Hudson and got my coils wet. The car went into a bad misfire condition and had to left at a gas station. I picked it up after the rain had subsided and it drove ok, but still seemed to have a miss below 3k under heavy load. I changed the plugs, but that actually seemed to worsen it, although downshifting makes it go away. It threw a CEL for the secondary air injection, although it went away when I got the car back out after not driving it for a month. Driving in NYC has also been hard on the front suspension -- it's developed a front end rattle that I think may be a tie rod. The car is now at 108k, and I am planning to completely replace all of the ignition coils and spark plug tubes, as well as doing a service on the front suspension, replacing tie rod ends and bushings. I bought an extra set of 17" wheels and winter tires so I can get some use out of it during the colder months. I plan to throw cheap, super-sticky hankooks on my factory 18"s and use these as autocross / out-of-town fast driving wheels and keep the winter wheels on for when I'm just in town to avoid curb rash. People said I was insane for buying a cheap Boxster and taking it on the road for months with a tent, frying pan, and hand tools, and they're probably right. I just drove the car top down in (mild) snow flurries down the west side highway -- can't get enough, I am in love! See you in the spring!
  21. can't actually see your posted video - maybe try putting it on youtube and then linking?
  22. I didn't have a torque wrench that goes to 340 ft-lbs, so I had to do the "step on extension 2 ft away from pivot with my 165 lbs" method of torque. We couldn't break the other side loose even by stepping on the breaker, so assumed it was torqued properly. I bought the car from a non-porsche dealer (got a great deal) that had replaced one wheel bearing after taking it in as a trade. I had someone else pick it up while I was out of town and he did not note which side had been done. My theory is that the loose nut was do to improper torquing after the previous R&R service - they probably just tightened it the same way you'd do on a normal car, which would be typically be less than 150 ft-lbs.
  23. So I went to do a rear wheel bearing R&R due to looseness in the wheel and intermittent noise under load. When I put the breaker on the axle nut, the thing just turned! It's supposed to be torqued to 340 ft-lbs! I tightened it to spec and the looseness has disappeared, and I haven't been able to replicate the noise (it occurred mostly under engine braking). Question is this: after a couple thousand miles of driving w/ intermittent mystery noise that looks to have been due to loose axle nut, is it likely that the bearing was damaged and that I ought to do the replacement anyway? I rented a tool to do it and would hate to have to jump through that hoop again, but the procedure does not look like much fun either.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.