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redcab

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Everything posted by redcab

  1. redcab
    Looking for some advice...entering the "cold" season here in northern california and so I've been driving with the convertible top up a bit more and I've noticed that at highway speeds I'm hearing what I'd call "creaking" (which is different of course from "squeaking" or "rattling") coming from the convertible / cabriolet top. If I put my right hand palm up on the inside of the roof and press, the creaking will be silenced. Pushing in other areas has no effect. Pushing on the right spot feels like there is probably a roof support right under my palm. As I've mentioned, its a problem only encountered at highway speeds. Any ideas? Something I need to lube? Cables I need to tighten? Any advice greatly appreciated!
  2. redcab
    Would like some opinions on this.... Just replace brake pads all around. 1. Mechanic (specializes in high end euro cars) says "We live in California - the weather is so dry here that there is no reason to bleed / replace the brake fluid. Better to just keep the system closed." Agree or Disagree? 2. Brake fluid reservoir now (after pad change) shows fluid level about a 1 cm below "MIN" level. Should I just top it off with brake fluid matching "porsche approved"? Or don't mix / top off? Vehicle is 2001 996 Cab. Mileage is 38K.... this may well be the first brake pad replacement. No tracking.... just driving. THANKS!!! Jerry
  3. redcab
    Do you have any opinion about the quality / value of various manufacturers of pads and rotors? I'm a suburbia driver, not planning to track the car (a 2001 C2 Cab) On the Penguin site, I see these manufacturers... price points vary widely. I don't want "cheap" quality, but I am willing to live with cheap $ ! In addition to "genuine porsche" (always the most expensive) there is: for pads: Textar Mintex Akebono ATE for rotors: Balo Zimmerman Sebro Thanks!
  4. redcab
    Thanks Loren, just a clarification for the neophyte in me.... The info you linked me to says the front wheels brake disk thickness is 28 mm new and at 26 mm wear it is gone. At 26.6 mm you've reached the spec limit. The tech came up with a measurement of 1.037 for the rotor. I'm not any expert in brake anatomy, but it seems like he was measuring some other distance. How do I compare these 2 sets of numbers? As always, thank you for sharing your expertise.
  5. redcab
    Sorry if my search technique didn't turn up an obvious answer to this.... What is the in spec measurement for front rotors on a 2001 996 ? 2-wheel drive cabriolet, if that matters. As far as I know the current set up is "stock" porsche. My tech did a brake inspection and the pad came in at 3 mm (yes, I need to replace them) and the rotors came in at 1.037 without units, but I'm assuming that it's CM. What's the rotor spec? Many thanks!!! Jerry
  6. redcab
    This morning I paid a bit more attention to what causes the thunk ((btw, it's a C2 cab) Definitely only happens when mashing the pedal at freeway speed. Always a 5 - 3 shift. I did it perhaps 30 times and only caused the problem only twice. Starting speed was between 65 and 75. When I tried it from a slower speed that allowed a 5 -2 shift, it was always smooth. The two times it happened... on the first the starting speed was definitely 65 (I was checking) and the second time it was probably 68. Both times it happened were in perhaps the first 50% of trials (so maybe it is a warm up thing?) The second observation was that it was a two - phase thunk..... if I had to guess the first part related to disengagement of a gear and the second related to the engagement phase because that second part was in sync with the rear tires biting for traction and the beginning of acceleration. (But that's a guess). I guess I could just stop mashing the pedal, but isn't that half the fun?
  7. redcab
    Hi, wondering if I can get some help diagnosing... 2001 996 w/ Tiptronic. Only 38K miles. Here's the scenario: Driving freeway speeds I floor it. Really mash it. The car downshifts. Sometime (but not always) I hear a big clunk as the transmission downshifts hard from 5th to 3rd. Is this normal? It doesn't happen every time. I haven't paid close enough attention to say it happens when I'm initiating at a certain speed. If I accelerate more moderately it doesn't happen. Only when I mash it. If I force the downshift from the steering wheel buttons it will not happen (in either M or A mode). Any ideas? Is this normal? I've owned the car for 8 years but only recently started driving it regularly on the highway (commute!) so maybe it's always been this way, but I just started noticing. Thanks!!!
  8. redcab
    I just did this exact fix on my 2001 996. I stared at the new shock for an hour trying to figure out how I was going to get the old one off and the new one on without disassembling the entire engine cover. If you haven't yet noticed..... there is a clip on the back of each head (end) of the shock. You can pry it back with a small flat head screwdriver. Doing so will release the shock from the ball pin that it is attached to. Once I figured this out, the entire replacement operation took 5 mins .... or less. BTW, unless you have 3 arms, have a helper for this operation to hold the cover up while you remove and replace the shock.
  9. redcab
    Hi 99911, My 2001 cab has exactly the same problem - broken left side hinge for the cab cover. You mentioned that you had pictures of the fix procedure but were unable to post. Could you send me those photos? I sent you a PM with my email address. I've order the parts and while I'm not looking forward to a few hours of fixing it, I think that I may not even have attempted it had I not found your excellent write up. Thanks, Jerry (redcab)
  10. redcab
    Thanks! Would you recommend that I remove the engine lid all together to be able to replace (or add) the shock? I don't really want to do that, but it looks like it might be tough to thread in the attachment hardware from behind. Double thanks!
  11. redcab
    Hi all, First post here.... I have a US 2001 996 cab. (Orient red / grey if you care!). The engine compartment lid is no longer staying open. I've ordered and received a new lid shock. In my researching the problem I learned that the 996 uses one shock, but the 996 turbo uses two. My shock is mounted on the engine compartment's right side. On the left side I see the same mounting holes (but of course there is no second shock mounted in a 996). So my strategy is to add the second shock (on the left) to my car because that looks more straightforward than unscrewing the hard to get screws / connectors of the existing (bad) shock on the right side (they can only be reached from underneath). Here's my question: What are the part number(s) for the screws or whatever attachment hardware is needed to mount the engine lid shock (to the left side if that makes a difference)? Thanks!!!
  12. redcab
    Hi - I'm now motivated to perform the speed sensing wire snipping exercise on my 2001 cab. Can anyone confirm that the wire I'm looking for is still "grey / pink" for that model year? I'd hate to snip the wrong one! -jerry
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