Dharn55

Was the problem RPM related or speed related. I.E. was is at 3,000 RPM in any gear, or just at 3,000 RPM on the highway in one gear. From the description it sounds more steering/wheel related than engine. Could also be a transmission/engine mount. I doubt an IMS that gets bad enough to shake the car would just get better. Also, if you are in New Jersey you have had ice and snow, could have been some ice on a wheel.

I would like to go the other way. I have the stock CDR220 and the cup holders in my car. I picked up the horseshoe trim in dark wood but it is a double DIN unit. I would like to convert it to the single DIM configuration. Does Porsche have a piece for this? I should add that this is for a 2000.

Front or rear?

It is a simple test to see if there is a spark at the cylinder/plug. If there is spark then it could be a stuck lifter, bad injector, sticking valve. I would certainly check the injector first. Run a compression and leak down test, that should show a cracked cylinder (doubt that is the problem). $3,500 is too much to drop the engine and pull off the valve cover and cams to replace a lifter. Where are you located?

I believe that the IMS to cam paddles can be changed without splitting the cases, but the IMS to crank paddle does require the splitting of the cases.

That is a tough one my friend. I am more familiar with the CDR220, but I think it is fairly close to the 210. One challenge is that the output from the head unit is really two channels, which go through the connector/harness on the back of the unit through a wire harness to the OEM amp. It is in the amp that the low frequency signals are split off to the sub-woofers. So I don't know how you would get this signal for a separate amp for your sub. I am sure that there is a way as I have seen many owner's that have used two separate amps, one for the front and rear channels and one for the subs. I am just not sure how they do it. On my car I used the harness from Becker to have a set of RCA jacks for the front left and right, and another set for the rear left and right. By the way one of the sets had an extra wire, which i used to feed the signal from the head unit for controlling a "power antennae" to turn the power for the amp on and off. I think you also asked about this on another forum. On my JL Audio 6430 one set of RCA cables go to channels 1 & 2, and one set go to channels 3 &4. The amp itself splits off the lows and blends the signals (left and right) for channels 5 &6 for the subs. As for the Ipod, there have been lots of threads on this, and there are a few alternatives as far as the cables go. However they all use the aux input that is for the CD changer in the trunk for the input of the Ipod signal. So you have a choice of either a CD changer or an Ipod. I know that Becker has a cable/adaptor for this, and I think it also provide charging for the Ipod. Does a 210 have the remote CD changer capability/input?

Good info and DIY. However you have now discovered that the weakest link in the system is really the speakers. Doesn't really matter what head unit or amp you have, anything will sound pretty poor through the OEM speakers. I always tell people to start with the speakers first.. I have Focals all the way around and a JL Audio amp, still have the stock Head unit and CD changer and will put my system up against anything that is using the OEM speakers and believe my system will win hands down.

Do a search here and on rennlist and 6peedonline. This has been discussed many times. Low end $600-$700 in parts (LNE bearing and flywheel bolts) and do it your self. Higher end can be $2,000-$3,000+ if you do clutch, flywheel, tensioners, AOS, etc. while you are in there.

No need to the computer, heck I have had the engine out of my car a couple of times and have not had to reset the computer. The ECU will have to "relearn" certain settings, but it does this on its own. I am facing a similar challenge, have to have shoulder surgery and they say I have to be in a sling for 4 weeks, no stick shift for at least 8 weeks. Bummer! In my case I will get my wife to drive the car at least every week or two.

I did the heated seats in my car based on the Dennis Vogel DIY, adapted to a 996. Not to hard to do. What about the rest of the connectors on the 997 seats.

I have seen several cabs that needed fluid after a few years that did not have "leaks." At least any that were noticeable. If a cylinder is leaking then the level will go down fairly quickly and will need to be replaced.

A Standard OBD2 will read some of the codes, etc. but you are much better with the Durametric that is specific to the Porsche's and will give you much more info, allow you to reset errors, etc. Here is a link. http://www.durametric.com/default.aspx

$1,500 for a water pump. Must have been a stealer.

Lots of OEM wheels are 8x18. I have also run 8.5x18 on my 2000 Carrera 4. I have seen people run 9'son the front and 11's on the rear. You need to know the offset on any wheels you are considering. As for tire sizes, the Turbo's actually go wider than the ones you listed. You want to stay close to the difference in size between the OEM tires and replacements.

And here is the DIY, right here on Renntech.

Check the level of hydraulic fluid in the system. If it gets low the tops tend to slow down and often need some help. There are some DIY's on some of the blogs, let me see if I can find one.

PhillipJ - A Turbo now! You dog you. I heard that if you ship it to Roock he can retrofit it with a 3.4 :clapping:

Actually 100% of Porsche's will suffer failure sooner or later. As a matter of fact 100% of all cars will suffer failure sooner or later!!! :oops: These sort of numbers are really meaningless. Yes many people now think that the failure rate of the M96/M97 engines is higher than it should be (I am one of them having suffered an intermix) but there are repairs that can be done and preventative measures that can be taken. IN the US the cost of a re-manufactured engine from Porsche is now way beyond 50% of an early model 996 value, but there are many alternatives and more are coming available as time goes on. 18,000 euros translates to $23,810 at today's exchange rate, and in the US this would be a premium price for a 99', although used car prices may be higher in Germany. And 8,000 euros for a new engine, $10,582 at today's rates, is less than the cost of just the engine, which are going for $15,000+ for a 3.4 in the US. The one thing I agree with you on is that Porsche has been remarkably evasive and dishonest on the issues regarding these engines. They should belly up to the bar and provide real figures on failure rates. If they really sart to lose customers due to there lack of candor maybe they will change, but I don't expect them to do this. I believe the majority of Porsche buyers, particularly buyers of new cars, don't really have a clue as to the problems.

I got my battery at Pepboys and they had the Bosch in the exact size of the OEM Bosch, I think I paid $118 with a 5 or 6 year warranty as I remember.

Not that I would recommend such a conversion or endorse this source, but here is a link to an eBay auction for a package to do such a conversion. http://cgi.ebay.com/...sQ5fAccessories

Should be 12mm

Great news that Renntech will continue to be available and benefit all of us. Loren, thanks for all your efforts. Looking forward to your site far into the future.

I have a similar problem on my car. Brake wear light is on all the time. Tested all the sensors, and they all tested good. Then replaced all the sensors, still have the light. I am thinking that I have a fault in one of the other wires/harness' for the system. The wheel sensors and the brake wear sensors each connect into a common harness. I don't think you can isolate which wheel is showing the fault.

Orient - I see the electrical wiring for the defroster on the old. Is this transferred to the new mounts or is the defroster wired differently on the new?

The rear window defrost is done through the mounting posts. I have never seen one with a separate connection.