Dharn55

Great that you could fix it. If you need to actually replace it the part (996.521.531.01) lists for only $105. At Sunset it is only about $80.

Are you saying that the camshaft ws broken in half, and part of it was not spinning and the engine still ran OK except of the error codes?

Loren - thanks for your prompt reply. You were right the second code was P119. Recently I had the headers and cats off to replace the oil pump and retime the cams. I had decided to separate the headers for the cats (in all my previous engine drops I took them off bolted together) to replace the gaskets. It turned out that my cats are bolted to the headers not with nuts and bolts, but with studs that were pressed into the flanges on the cats. The studs and the nuts on them were completely corroded and some broke in trying to remove them. I decided to drill them out and it was extremely hard to do. Ended up with the cats laying on the sensors at times and I think I may have damaged some of the wires at the sensors. I ended up only separating one of the cats and headers as it was so difficult to drill them out. Probably will need to replace some of the sensors. Are both of these errors codes for the same sensor, bank 2 before the cat? As for the brake wear sensors, I understand that these are simple one wire circuits. Thats why I assumed that I had one with a damaged wire. But I removed and checked each sensor for continuity of the wire/circuit, and they were all good. Also checked to see if they were properly plugged into the receptacle by each wheel that has both the brake wear sensor and the ABS sensor plugged into it, and they were plugged all the way in. Again, my next thought was that one of the receptacles, or the cables from them into the car was faulty. But it would seem if the cable was bad the ABS sensor would also show a fault. I can always try to "short out" each receptacle to see if this removes the brake wear light. I don't think that there is a way to determine which wheel is showing the fault with a Durametric. Still puzzled by this light, must be an open circuit somewhere.

I have a check engine light and two fault codes showing on my Durametric. P0154, Porsche fault code 18, Oxygen sensor ahead of cat 4-6 P0119, Porsche fault code 5 Oxygen sensor ahead of TWC, bank 2, heating Not sure what to make of these, think I may have damaged the wires to the Oxygen sensor. Any help on this would be appreciated. Also, I have a brake wear light on. Thought I might have a broken sensor (bought a set just in case) but today I checked the pads and tested the the sensors with a voltage meter. The pads are fine, and the sensors all have continuity, and are plugged into the receptacle for the pad and ABS sensors. My next thought was that one of the cables from the receptacles to the computer might be bad, but the ABS and PSM are working fine. If one of these cable wa a problem I would think I would get a ABS or PSM light/fault. Any ideas on this?

The oil has to be warm for the electric monitoring to work properly, even then it can be inaccurate. The dip stick is the most accurate way to check the oil.

A 750lb engine stand will hold it no problem. I got an inexpensive one at Pepboys and had no problem with it.

Actually the lugs on the oil pressure sensor are two different sizes as are the connectors on the wires. This makes it very hard to switch the wires, it would be very hard to get the small connector on the large lug.

Vacuum lines is correct.

Disconnect the battery before you take the seat out or you will end up with the dreaded Airbag light and need the Porsche tool or a Durametric to turn it off.

This site might help. http://dennisvogel.com/heatedseats/index.html Shows all the wiring and relays, locations, etc. The only difference between the Boxster and the 996 is the location of the switches. I used this to put heated seats in my cab. Good luck!

Wow, and I thought the ones on my 996 at 50,000 were bad. But why three sets? There are only two in an engine. New sets are only about $15 from Sunset. You should look at your oil change intervals and the type of oil you are using. This can lead to excessive wear if you don't change your oil often enough and use the wrong oil.

First of all a disclaimer, I do not know these guys or their reputation. Now, I found this ad on ebay for a shop in Georgia that claims to do upgrades to 3.6's and 3.8's. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-eng...sQ5fAccessories I talked to them and the owner claims that they have perfected the upgrades. Says that Roock sometimes sends their work to him as Roock does not do the work himself. And the price to do the upgrade is about $7,500 in addition to the cost of the engine. At this price hopefully it really is perfected. Just thought I would pass along the info.

The odds of having anything but a 3.4 are pretty slim, there are alot of mods necesary to put a 3.6 or 3.8 in a 3.4 car, and yours is early enough that is is probably not a e-gas, but a mechanical thottle. If it says VarioCam F1 it is a 3.4. You definitely need a tool to hold the cams when you take off the cover. PM me your email and I will send you a diagram for the tool and pictures. I can give you alot of other info and pictures that can be hlepful and some work arounds for the special tools that are "required." Based on the fact that you did not have oil/water intermix you probably have a cracked liner rather than a head. Although it you caught it right away you may not have gotten the intermix. On my car I never had any smoke or misses, it ran fine. I only found the problem when the coolatn light flashed. Then checked the coolant tank and found "pudding", then checked the oil and it was like a chocolate milk shake. The fact that the coolant was at the #1 cylinder (rear on driver side) may mean a cracked cylinder head as this is the most common location, cracks at the inner exhaust valve spring seat. And if it was bad enough it could have leaked antifreeze into the sparkplug chase. They say D-chunks/cracks in the liners are more common in the middle cylinder, but don't know if this is true. I have been working with a couple of other owners who have had cracked heads, one actually has cracks in both heads (at the same spot on both heads). there are other sources for new liners other than LN's nikkies, but I don't know much about them. I have seen them on Ebay and if you look at Motormeisters web site they have some other source for the engines they are building. But LN and Flat 6 have a great reputation for their products and work.

Some major challenges with this conversion. Different DME's, and the VarioCam vs. VarioCamPlus issue. It has been done. PhilipJ tried it with Roock and ended up with horror stories, sold the car and bought a 997. Doo some searches here and on 6 speed and Rennlist and you will find lots of discussions. It is definitely not just a bolt in project!

You will need a tools to secure the cams with any M96 engine. PM me with you email and I will send you plans for the tools and other info. I have been through this and have alot of tips, etc. for you. Ihave been planning to write a DIY but have not gotten to it yet. I have been working with two others who have cracked heads. Also have some work arounds for other "tools" that are usually required. Lots of pictures that might help.

I bet they don't sell many at that price. I got mine on Ebay about 3-4 years ago, like new condition, think I paid about $750. You see them on occassion on Ebay, but with the tripled price from our "friends" at Porsche I am sure the price of used ones will go up.

Cold seems low. Mine always read higher that that until warmed up, but the hot temperature does not seem that far off. A new oil sender is only about $45 from Sunset and is an easy change.

Thaks for the advice. Tried taking apart the pumps itself, but that did not help. Still would not come off. Ended up taking out the engine carrier studs, and one other stud that pass through the pump housing. This alowed me to use a rubber mallet to slightly rotate the housing back and forth. This with a little levering got it off. It turned out that there was a little corrosion where the housing of the oil pump fits into the crankcase. Not anywhere near the orings, but enough to make it hard to get it out. Amazing what 10 years of midwest winters and salt will do to a car.

Had the engine out for lifters, AOS and water pump. As part of this I tried to get the oil pump off. Took out all the bolts, but the pump would not come off. Tried to lever/pry it off, loosened up a little, gaskets moved, but the pump would not come off. Ended up cutting the metal gasket that combines the water pump and the oil pump and retorqing the oil pump. Now I have a little leak from the oil pump at the bottom where the coolant flows through the pump. Anyone have experience with taking off the oil pump? Any help would be appreciated.

Put the engne back in the car today after replacing all the lifters. Had to take out the cams. The Durametric is reading a Porsche Fault Code 113, Camshaft Postiion Sensor, Bank 2. Thinking I lost the position/allocation of the camshaft. Used my marking method that has worked in the past, but looks like I have a problem now. Lots of exhaust pressure from 1-3, but little from 4-6. Loren, do you have experience with this? I am afraid that I am going to need the pretensioners and allocation tools.

Not 100% sure about this. I was told that to test my lifters I should compress them and there should be some movement. On several I had 1.5mm-2mm or so of movement, but several were "locked down," which I was told indicated the were faulty. Based on this I decided to replace all my lifters, and bought 24 brand new INA lifters. When they arrived I checked them and none had any movement, all apperared to be "locked down." I was surprised to say the least. But the lifters use oil pressure to expand, and these were brand new and have never been pressurized, so I am now assuming that they are good. I put them into my engine and will have it running tomorrow. If the tappet noice is gone I guess I will be happy, but not really sure of how to "test" lifters anymore.

Maybe Roock could swap out the 3.8 for a 3.4!! :lol:

Actually if it is the solinoid for the tensioner it is not hard to fix. Mine used to have some expoxy on it, maybe JB Weld, from a mechanic. But I have had the cam covers off so I now have some Permatex copper on there. If you clean it off well before you put it on it will seal the leak. I wll try to post a picture tomorrow.

You can replace the DME without replacing the immoblizer.

You just take off the rubber pads on the brake and clutch pedals. Have to drill some holes for the nuts and bolts, easy to do. For the gas, it just goes over the rubber, again drilling some holes. I think they tend to disappear from Ebay if teh say "Porsche" because they would have to pay a licensing fee so once Porsche sees them they make them stop selling them. But they do look alot better with the wording.