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Dharn55

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Everything posted by Dharn55

  1. No Solution but it sure makes me appreciate the levers on my 2000.
  2. If you get a set of manuals they have complete wiring diagrams in them.
  3. Durametric shows no error codes for anything (other than alarm codes which are old and the Durametric cannot erase. Also, the brake wear and low fluid lights, etc. I think I am going to try to disconnect the battery again. See if that resets everything.
  4. After replacing the battery, starter, and engine ground strap, etc. which involved disconnecting the battery several times, now I have several of the warning lights on the dash that don't go off. These include the PSM warning light, the PSM Off light ( and the PSM won't turn back on by the switch), the brake fluid light, the brake wear light, the ABS light, and the battery light. I have turned off the ignition and restarted the car several times, but the lights stay on. Check the car with my Durametric and there are NO ERROR CODES for any of these. Lots of brake fluid, no worn through pad sensors, the alternator/gauge is showing almost 14 amps, etc. etc. Any ideas on what could be causing this? I am sure that the ABS and PSM are deactivated with these lights. Could something been knocked loose? :angry:
  5. See my post on starter problems. I had the same issue, lights came on and starter would click once, then nothing. I replaced the battery, the electricals for the switch, and went through a used starter from Ebay and a new starter that I bought on-line. Same problem. Then a member suggested checking the gound strap from the engine to the frame. Took the strap off and checked it for breaks and continiuty (it was fine), cleaned the posts and reinstalled the strap, problem was gone, starter works fine. Tested the original starter and the used one from Ebay, both are good. Will be selling them if you need one, but first check the gound strap. It is on the right side and goes from the frame to the front of the head.
  6. It seems it was the ground strap. I took it off and checked it for breaks, and for continuity with a resistence meter. Then cleaned the posts and reintalled it. Starter motor works fine now. Thanks to Loren and everyone else for your suggestions. Just wish I had thought of the ground strap before I bought the new starter. Now have a couple of extras. Going on Ebay soon unless someone here needs one. I will make them a great deal.
  7. OK, I swapped the relay for the engine compartment relay, they are the same number, and still the same problem. I think the starter gets its gound from the engine, so I am going to check the ground strap again. any other ideas?
  8. No. Is it located in the rear relay carrier under the convertible top tray?
  9. So I have been having problems with my starter for the last several weeks. Somtimes it will start fine, other times the starter clicks once, then nothing. So I have replaced the battery, the electrics for the ignition switch and now a new starter (actually I bought a used starter and had the same problem, so now I put in a brand new starter). Still the same problem, just clicks once, then nothing. For a while it would repeatedly click, but this was with the used starter, with the new just one click. Checked the connections, the engine ground strap, etc., noting appears loose. Everything else in the car works. If I push start the car it runs, then sometimes the starter will work once or twice, then just a click. Battery shows 12+ amps Any ideas?
  10. $3,500 is crazy!!! A good tech can drop the engine in 3-4 hours, I can do it that fast in my driveway (and have done so a couple of times), another 3-4 hours to put it back in. Add another 3-4 hours to taek the engine far enough apart to see that the IMS is gone. Even if you are more generous with the time and allow for 20 hours, at $100/hr, that is only $2,000.
  11. Nope, no wires if the car was not equipped with heated seats, each wiring harness is custom made for the options in the car. That being said, it is not that hard to add heated seats, I did it in my 00 996 cab. Go to this site http://dennisvogel.com/heatedseats/index.html for a full set of instructions, parts list etc. for adding them to a Boxster, this is what I used, just a few changes for a 996. If you need more info or help let me know.
  12. There is lots of room in the door sills, I have run wires for heated seats, stereo and PSE there, no problem.
  13. I replaced the cltch on my 2000 996 at about 45,000. But I had two air-cooled 911's that went over 100,000 on the orignal clutch and a 928 that went over 90,000. Only 25,000 indicates some poor driving in my opinion.
  14. Again , in "factory" set up the lights on the tip switches that control the seat heaters are only on when the heaters are switched on. If you wire the switches in some way so that they are illuminated when the headlights are on, irregardless or whether the heaters are on then you won't know it the heaters are on or off except for the fact that the seat get warm.
  15. The seat heater lights only come on when the seat heaters are on. Red for the high position and yellow for the low position. You should not need any connection to the headlights.
  16. When I reinstalled the engine in my 2000 996 after fixing the intermix problem I also installed a new AOS. No problems until recently. I had to replace the starter motor a week ago (always something). AFter replacing the starter when starting the car there is a tremendous amount of smoke which goes away in a short time. I am thinking that I knocked something loose on the AOS. I removed the throttle body and there is a thick film of oil inside the plenum. Seems to be coming from the breather tube that I believe comes from the AOS and attaches to the plenum. Any ideas on what might have come loose?
  17. OK folks here is the tools that makes the removal of the oil pressure sender simple. A 19mm Crowfoot wrench. Use this with a 3/8" universal, extension and socket wrench and the removal is simple. Jack up the car, put in a jackstand, remove rear right wheel, slide the crows foot wrench in from the bottom, you need the universal to get the wrench on due to the angles around the spark plug shield. A little twist on the socket wrench and it loosens right up. the just spin it out from the top, spin the new one on and tighten it down with the crowfoot. Really easy and fast. Got the crowfoot at NAPA, here is a link http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S...cf19m&Ntk=Part Number&N=0&Nty=1&D=ncf19m&Dn=0&Dk=1&Dp=3 Probably available from other sources. Made the job incredibly easy.
  18. OK folks here is the tools that makes this simple. A 19mm Crowfoot wrench. Use this with a 3/8" universal, extension and socket wrench and the removal is simple. Jack up the car, put in a jackstand, remove rear right wheel, slide the crows foot wrench in from the bottom, you need the universal to get the wrench on due to the angles around the spark plug shield. A little twist on the socket wrench and it loosens right up. the just spin it out from the top, spin the new one on and tighten it down with the crowfoot. Really easy and fast. Got the crowfoot at NAPA, here is a link http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S...cf19m&Ntk=Part Number&N=0&Nty=1&D=ncf19m&Dn=0&Dk=1&Dp=3 Probably available from other sources. Made the job incredibly easy.
  19. I bought a barnd new OEM waterpump with the gasket, in the Porsche box for about $100 on ebay, just watched for one to come up. You can get them all day for $100-$300, both OEM and aftermarket, both on ebay (there are probably 1/2 dozen listed now) or just do a google search, check automotion, Pelican etc. It si a few hours labor to install, kind of a pain, there are several write-ups/DIY on how to do it. If you go to a dealer (stealer) you are going to pay full price for the pump, which is $228 so be careful, you may pay more on-line
  20. I don't think the low-temp thermostat is going to make the car run cooler on an hot day. While is opens sooner to circulate coolant, once you reach operating temps the amount of cooling is going to be based on the surface area of the radiators and the amount of air passing over them, along with the amount of air flowing through the engine compartment. I guess on a cooler day the lower temp thermostat and the fans going on sooner may keep the temp below the 194 degrees of the stock thermostat.
  21. Richard Hamilton - That is it. Thanks for the link. My searches were on engine fans and radiator fan mods. Did not find it. Now maybe I will finally do the mod. I actually bought two relays and footwell light switches. I am using one of the switches to toggle the OBD from when I did that mod, but I bought a four stalk switch that I have not installed. Time to do that so I free up the tip switch. However, I think I am also using the light on the footwell switch to show when the spoiler is raised (another mod I did).
  22. About 4-5 yeras ago when I started modding my 996 I wanted to add swtiches for both the radiator fans and the engine compartment fan using OEM TIP switches. I found a DIY on how to do it. It involved using Footwell light tip switches and a set of relays. This was required as the tip switches are not on/off switches but set up to use relays. I had printed out the DIY and actually bought the tip switches and the relays, but never installed them. Now I cannot find the binder I had all my early mod info in, and cannot find the DIY, having searched here and on Rennlist and 6 speed and on google. If anyone has knowledge of this DIY I would appreciate help in finding it.
  23. The AOS is located at the front of the engine on the drivers side. You can't really see it without removing alot of pieces.
  24. Talk to Jake Raby at Flat 6, he may be able to help you. Also, you should have the manuals for a 3.6, I know that my manuals on CD have both 3.4 and 3.6. Check with Porschelibrarian for some better manuals.
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