Dharn55

I have done the dash switch on my car, also use the light on the switch to show when my spoiler is up in conjuction with a spoiler switch. The biggest functional difference between a switch install and a 4 stalk install is that with the stalk you can set the speed/gong, which provides for an alarm if you exceed a specified speed, prbably not something many would often use. This fundtion is not available with the dash switch. Also the stalk is easier to use. I found a 4 stalk on Ebay last year and will be upgrading to the stalk version this spring.

Loren - I don'tknow if you are correct on this one. My PSE came with all the wiring, hoses, vacumm tank, brackets, etc. etc. The only tnhing I had to order seperately was the switch. And here you want to order it according to the years of your car, older models had glossy switches and newer models have matte switches. The wiring I received was a pre-made harness from Porsche.

The speed cutout is dependent on whether you connect a wire to the speedometer over ride. When I installed my PSE I also installed the electrics, but did not connect the speedometer wire, thus it does not go quite at the imtermediate speeds, only when I swith on the quite mode. You could also commect the speedometer wire and put a contact switch on it so that you have the option of having the speed over ride. I certainly recommend the installation of the electrics, as it gives you the best of both worlds, quite when you want it, and louder when you want it. This is particularly nice in a cab like mine as the louder setting is very noticeable. The speed over ride seems kind of strange to me, I like it either loud or quite. I understand it has something to do with noise laws in certain European countries.

Reminds me of when I put in my Smart Top module. Had it installed and it worked. then some how it seemed to stop working, top would not fully closed, went to about 1" from closing. I could not figure out what was wrong, thought maybe I had really screwed something up. I was on my way to my mechanics shop, holding the top down with my hand so it would not blow open. About 1 mile from my home I thought, maybe I should check the engine cover. Low and behold, once closed properly the top worked fine. Felt really stupid. Thank goodness I found it before I got to the shop and appeared really stupid!!!!!!!

For the dash and rear speakers I used the frames from the old mids, cutting out the speakers themselves to hold in the new mids to the speaker grills. This was an easy dremel tool job, just cutting out four arms on each frame. Then the frames just fit over the new mids. For the tweeters, I did use a dremel tool to flatten out the opening on the grills, then siliconed in the tweeters. for the dash speakers you will need to run new wires from the new crossovers, the stock speakers only use two wires, and resistors for the tweeters. The Focal 100KP's are separate components. For the rears I used the Focal coaxials so the old wiring worked. In the doors I used a 5.25" focal 5WS, this required cutting out some reinforcing ribs in the door enclosures to fit the width and epth of the new speakers. Then used rubber weatherstripping and the original screws to hold them in the enclosures. It is impoertant to get a good seal around the frames. I sued a JL Audio 6450, 6 channel amp. You want the low level outputs to the amp. As i remember, the HU has both. The crossovers are in the trunk next to the amp. Unfortunately I have not finished this part of the install, still need to fabraicate a mounting board and cover, and cover it with carpet material. The area where the stock amp comes out might be big enough for the crossovers, but not the JL Audio amp I used. And I have a C4 Cab so the trucnk space is small and the stock windscreen holder goes against the back fo the trunk. Still working this out. I saw someone said you could use a letter opener, I would not try it as the slots are very thin, get the tools.

I started with the speakers first. I put Focal 100KP's in the dash, these are component speakers with 4.25 mids and tweeters, they fit with minimal modifications, just cut the old speakers out of the frames and used this frame to secure the mids in place on the grills. the tweeters were held in place with silicone, I think I used a dremel tool a little bit where th tweeters mount, and to cut the frames of the old mids. for the doors I started with a pair of 5.25 mids striped out of a set of Focal 130KP's. they were OK, but not a true sub. They fit in with just a little work with a dremel tools, had to remove some of the reinforcing ribs in the speaker enclosure as the new speakers were deeper and wider at the back. Ran these with the stock amp and the amp/ohms worked fine. the sound was much better than stock, totally improved. Later I swtiched out the doors for a pair of Focal 5WS, a true sub, but no loner made, Focal now has 13KP and one other 5.25" sub. the true subs were a big improvement over the Mids I originally used. The next step was adding a JL Audio E6450 amp, this is a 6 channel amp, so I have two channels for the dash, tow channel for the rears, and two channels combined for the dor/subs. I also put focal 100CA's in the rear, not really necessary at the rears are only for infill, but it did make a big difference over the stock speakers which are the same as the stock dash speakers. The new set up with the amp and speakers sounds fantastic, and you can really crank it with any distortion. Now with the small subs you won't ever get the type of base that shakes the whole car, but that is not my desire. some users put 6.5" in the doors, with a little more dremel work, or pur an enclosure in the back, with a cab there are boxes you can put in the rear seats or others that fit behind the front seats, and you can get an 8-10" sub in. I am still using the stock head unit (CDR220) and the stock 6 disc changer, and the system sounds really good, although the CD sound better than the radio, either the in dash or the changer. I know a new head unit would be even better, but I like the stock look so I am sticking with the stock unit. GOOD LUCK!!

It does take special tools to take out the radio. You can find them on Ebay for about $.99, but then pay $5-$6 for shipping. This is where I got mine. Once the radio is removed you need the code to reinstall it, but it you are upgrading this doesn't matter. The Most system is the big challenge. By the way, if you are keeping the stock speakers you won't get much improvement from a new head unit. The speakers are the weakest link in the system, they are crap. Start with speakers, then an amp. Last step should be the head unit.

A C2 with PSM is not bad in the snow, but a C4 will be much better, With either the critcal factor is winter tires, the stock summer tires are dangerous in cold wet conditions. I have a 2000 C4 and in February got caught in a blizzard in Wisconsin, there were cars and trucks in the ditch everywhere, but I was passing everything including the SUV with my Dunlop Wintersports. I did get stuck once in an unplowed parking lot where the snow was deeper than my car is high, basically I was high centered, had to dig it out.

I use Shell Gasoline. Why, because with the Shell VISA card we get 5% off all gas purchases. At $3.00/gal that is $.15, and gas is only going up. Sometimes I see other brands for less that Shell, but seldom 5% less.

A 2000 is usually a PCM1 8 bit version. The problem with trying to update the CD's is that there is no current version produced (certainly not for PCM1 and I don't think so for PCM2) and the ones available from Navtec are very expensive. They stopped updating them several years ago for the older GPS systems. This is very frustrating that Porsche does not maintain the CD's for the older cars. Buy a Garmin and put in a better stereo.

If your car was sold without a hardtop (i.e. with the delete option as hardtops were standard in 99, and I think standard through 02 or 03 when they became an option) you may not have the hardware in the back under the cloth covered cover, but it might be there. A 99 would have the old style hardware, which is characterized by pins running horizontally though the shaft that goes into the car at the back. The new style is more of a screw. There are TSB's here that show both styles and how the update can be done.

Get the Durametric, it works!!! It does not cost any more than the other discussed here and it has specific capablilites for the Porsche. I bought mine 2+ years ago, when they were only about $179, but a the current price of $247 it is still very competitive. Yes a standard OBDII scanner is much cheaper, but it does not have the same function. Durametric stand behind there product, keeps updating the software which is free to buyers, and adding functions. Like the other poster I have nothing to do with Durametric, I am just a happy customer.

In a 996 you don't need to remove the rear center console as the tip switches go in the batwing. I guess in a coupe you could use the open switch positions by the ashtray, but in a cab these are taken by the rear window switches. You can get a bat wing with the two switch positions, or four positions if you have other fundtions you want to add. NOte that when you buy the tip switches there are two finishes, glossy for older cars and matt for newer cars. I will look on my wiring diagrams to see how power is supplied to the lumbar controls. Good luck!

Try this link: http://www.dennisvogel.com/heatedseats/index.html This is a site with instructions for adding heated seats in a Boxster, I used it for my 996 with slight modification. It will show you what is required for wiring, switches and relays to use the heated seat function (which by the way is great if you live in a cool/cold climate). As for the lumbar support, this is just a local function (i.e. within the seats) with a switch on the side of the seats so you probably just need to bring power to the switch/pump. I will have to look at a wiring diagram to confimr this.

In the 997 section of 6speedonline there is someone starting a group buy.

Seems pretty high for a clutch job. more than some dealers I have seen. Is this a dealer or a indy? You list some other work that might add up, but an experienced mechanic should be able to do a clutch in 4-6 hrs. Resurfacing the flywheel might add to it. I know I have heard that you cna't resurface the stock dual-mass flywheel, and a new one lists for $900+ I think. I was lucky when I had my clutch replaced. I had found a brand new dual-mass flywheel on Ebay one day and bought it for $150, then it sat in my garage for 2 years. when my clutch went I need a flywheel and low and behold I had one. Just luck I guess.

Try this link: http://www.dennisvogel.com/heatedseats/index.html It is instructions for installing heated seat in a boxster, I used it for my 996. Lots of pictures, diagrams instructions, etc. It won't be hard to add some foan behind the center section. There is a company that make an inflatable bladder to serve as a lumber support. I know I have seen it but don't remember where.

The rain sensor is a "stick-on" piece that is usually mounted near the mirror with wires going up in the trim around the windshield. So it really has nothing to do with the woindshield other than having to remove it and remount it if you have one.

Try www.durametric.com. This is the only non-Porsche OBD that can reset most of the error, airbag lights, etc., but it won't do everything the Porsche tool does. Do a search on the boards and you will find alot of info on them. I bought one and like it, and they continually upgrade the software to add features.

Check your coolant level. The light does not go on when the temperature is low, only when the coolant level is low or the temperature is to high.

If you do a search you will find alot of info on this subject. many people remove the spring because they like the feel of the clutch without it.

I have Dunlop WinterSports 240's on my 2000 C4 and I love them. I bought them several years ago so I think they have a new model now. Great in ice and snow, the summer tires were undriveable.

The pirelli's wear fast and make alot of noise, particularly when partially worn. Try the Michelin PS2, longer lasting, quieter, etc. etc.

Sure it is and if you search here and on other sites like rennlist and 6speedonline you will find lots of threads on this. This is where I found most of the info so you need to search further. That being said I can tell you what I did on my 2000 C4 cab which had the HiFi upgrade to start with (i.e. door speaker location). I started with focal 100 KP in the dash, they will fit with some modification, you use the frames from the mids to secure the new mids, and silicone the tweeters in place. Again there are many details and pictures on how to do this if you search. With is set up you will need to run new wires from the amp to the crossovers, which I mounted in the trunk, and them two sets of wires to the dash. Then I added mids from a set of Focal 136KP in the doors to replace the factory "subs." This with the stock amp and head unit made a great improvement, you could actually turn the volume up without great distortion and could hear the music with the top down. However, the stock amp is pretty weak and the mids were not true subs. The next step was to replace the mids I put in the doors with true subs, a set of Focal 5WS. These are 5.25 inch so they fit easliy in the doors, just a little bit more dremeling than the mids I put in. The difference between the mids and true subs was very noticable. Unfortunately, the 5WS are made any longer, sometimes you can find a set on Ebay, this is where I got mine, or Focal makes a newer model line of 5.25 inch subs. Also some have fit 6 inch subs in the doors with some further midification. With any 5" or 6" sub you are not going to get head throbbing base, but I certainly did not want that, and the set up I have is much better than stock. At this time I also added a JL Audio 6 channel amp which made an incredible difference. It is a 450 watt amp which you really need to power the speakers without distortion at higher volumes. Finally I replace the rear speakers with a set of Focal 100 slim lines. These made the least difference at the rear are mostly infill, but still have an impact. Focals are great, but expensive. Some use MB Quarts and other lines of speakers. I still have the stock head unitand CD player (both the CDR220 and the 6 cd changer in the trunk). I can tell you that it is much better playing a CD from either source than it is with the radio, but both sound great and are much improved from the stock speakers and amp. You can put in the beast head unit in the world and if you keep the stock speakers is will still sound like crap. I better head unit would probably be even better, but I like the stock look. You can also check out Rod at www.caraudioinnovations.com. He specializes in Porsches and will do the work or sell you a whole set up with instructions. Depends on your budget and how capable you are.

There are different leads from the amp for the dash, door and rear speakers (assuming you have the upgraded Hi-Fi system). The dash and rear speakers have mids and highs, with capacitors on the tweeters to filter out the mids. The door speakers are fed from the amp with only the low frequency for use as sub-woofers.