Dharn55

Have I missed something here or on other sites regarding many problems with people installing the IMS bearing kits. I read this site and several others on pretty much a daily basis and I think this thread is the only one I can recall talking about problems with installs. I have also not seen much of anything about failures of the LNE bearings. Ian also Leary that the manufacturers and I staplers are ever going to be 100% accountable if a unit fails. Maybe if an nostalgia has problems. I still think the bearing kits and the new IMS solution should be made available to the general public. If people need help with the install then charge then for the help. This is done for lots of products.

I find it really sad and actually distressing that LNE and Flat6 have decided to turn their backs on the DIY community which helped support it for so long. Many of us have long worked on our own cars ( including Logray) and have more than enough capability to do this simple install. What possible excuse is there not to sell to us ther than elitism. I remember back in 2008/2009 when I had my cracked head/intermix. I spoke to the dealer where my car was purchased, my Indy and to Jake personally and they all told me that I would have to replace the engine. Jake personally told me that a cracked head could not be repaired. Well I pulled my head, sent it to California to have it repaired, reinstalled it and now have 21,000+ miles on the engine. And now the "pros" are doing what the DIYers did first. So to now say that DIYers like myself can't by these parts is total BS! They will sell you the Nickies, pistons, intermediate shaft upgrade, etc, etc, that requires a total tear down and rebuild but won't sell you the IMS bearing kit. Give me a break!

You tires are worn out so you are going to change suspension??? Why?? Get new tires and an alignment. By the way you should have replaced the tires long before any cord was showing!

If the system is working you will definitely hear the difference! Believe me.

Not sure 991 owners are going to be a lot of help with a '99

I had a surge on my car, e-gas, a couple of years ago. It would happen at idle and while cruising at a constant throttle position. It would also through on the ABS lights, but I never read the code as it would go way if I turned the car off. Cleaned everything a few times and checked for leaks but the problem would not go away. Finally one day I lost the throttle pretty much altogether. Limped home with little more than idle. I borrowed the throttle body from a friend's car and put it on my car and the problem was gone. Bought a new throttle body and the problem has never returned. So the e-gas throttle bodies can go bad.

I had a problem with the brake pad sensor light being on for several years. Checked and replace the sensors but could not get the light off and just got used to it. Then on day I took the liner out from the top storage area to adjust the rears on my PSS9's and saw what appeared to be charring on a label on one of the main wiring harness runs. Started separating the harness at that point and found a melted brown ground wire. Over a period of three days out came the rear seat, carpet, etc. etc. soon I had the harness split all apart, probably 100 wires at some points, and continued to trace out the wire with melted insulation. It had partially melted the insulation on surrounding wire, some of which I repaired with liquid electrical tape. I finally determined that is was the ground wire for the brake pad sensors. And there were several larger gauge ground wires that fed back to this smaller one. I ended up cutting out the bad wire and running a new ground wire. The problem was fixed and has never returned. I never have figured what caused the short that melted the wire, but if this had been a dealer repair it would have been thousands of dollars and I am guessing tha the would have ordered a new wiring harness.

If the dealer left the brakes like this they obviously did not test drive the car. If you are in St. George and the dealer is far away I would I sits that they have the car towed to them, fixed and retuned. Driving the car like it is could be very dangerous.

It may just be the seals on the IMS flange, although an 07 has the updated flange. It could also be the RMS leaking, hard to say without taking off the transmission. One challenge is that if it is the IMS bearing starting to go, on an 07 it has the larger IMS bearing that cannot be retrofitted without splitting the cases.

The Super Sports are great, put them on last summer after Pirelli's and PS2's. big improvement over both. Road force balance is gret if you need it. Mine balanced up fine with a standard balancing.

Are you looking for the window itself or for the track/motor assembly? What are the part numbers?

For Porsche OEM/approved parts, Sunset Porsche in Beaverton OR, Suncoast Porsche in Florida, Sonnen Porsche in CA (porscheoemparts.com which has on line look up and pricing which is very helpful). Also getting to know the parts dept. guys at you local dealership can be very helpful, they sometimes have a lot of flexibility on pricing. Having the PET program with current pricing or looking up the pricing on porscheoemparts helps. Dealers set their own pricing. The other days I was buying a small hose connector that "lists" for about $5.50, the local dealer quoted $10.50, when I pointed this out they said OK and sold it at list. Again knowing the parts guys helps (it also helps that my daughters boyfriend is an apprentice tech at that dealer so they know me tht way. He can also buy parts at cost +10%). Also get to know some of the aftermarket parts sources, there are so many. You can often get parts from the OEM source that just don't have the Porsche label on them at greatly reduced prices. This week I had to replace my alternator, new lists for about $1,700, one dealer quoted a lit of $1,500 for a rebuilt that they would sell for $1,058, I bought a factory rebuilt Bosch for about $350. The parts breakers can be good sources, DC Auto, Oklahoma Foreign have been good sources for me. Ther are some othes that have less than glorious reputations. Amazon is not a bad source. And believe it or not eBay can be a good source, but watch out and you have to know what you are buying. You actually see parts sold for more than the dealer price and ther is a lot of crap. I watch it regularly and often buy parts on the anticipation that I might need them or someone else might need them. Some samples. I bought a new, in the box, Porsche labled, dual mass flywheel for $60 once, unbelievable. I sat I. It for three years u til I needed it with a clutch change. I bought my PSS10 set for $1,800 on eBay.

There is a local guy here that had a 996 with a flaw in the case. It was the car that a woman in Texas bought and then had an intermix, the dealer changed the head gaskets and the problem continued. He bought it from here, repaired the flaw, rebuilt the engine, then sold it back to the woman. This was several years ago. I can't remember if the flaw was in a head or the main case, but some how he found it and repaired it. I was not a crack, but a flaw, thin spot in the casting. Perhaps this was what they used to call a porous block. I will have to contact him and see where he flung the problem.

Tim Long time since I saw any posts from you. Can you bring us up to date on the status of your car?

Great news! Enjoy the car.

The C4 has different top strut mounts than the C2, they have a bearing built into them. I would advise that you inspect these for any deterioration of the rubber centers and also to clean and lubricate the bearings. In my case they looked OK but failed a few months later. Have a look here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/40035-carrera-4-suspension-top-mounts/?view=findpost&p=219587&hl=clacking

I broke this plastic hose connector today when I was replacing my alternator. I wanted to move the hoses out of the way and when I used my hose clamp pliers and tried to pull the upper hose off the connector it just broke off. 12 years and many, many heat cycles later the plastic was shot. One local dealer has one in stock, but their parts dept. was not open on Saturday. However I am thinking one of the previous posters was right in replacing the plastic with brass. There are many plastic connectors in these cars and sooner or later they all seem to fail.

The first time I dropped my engine on jack stands I think it took 8 hours or so. By the third or fourth time it was 3-4 hours, you just get to know each step and the tool required. Mine is a C4 so there are a few extra steps for the front drive. One of the biggest challenges is that with the car up high enough on jack stands (which tales a few steps to get it that high) my motorcycle jack won't go high enough so I have to do it in two steps. I use pieces of 2x12 with bricks between them under the engine, lower it onto cinder blocks under the exhaust manifolds, then take out one of the 2x12's and the bricks and lower it the rest of the way. Maybe for next spring I will figure out a better way, but a lift would sure be nice.

Keeping my fingers crossed for you. I remember the teething problems when I had my engine back together after the intermix fix. I think I dropped the engine 3-4 times. Had the pulse sender go bad and it was corroded in. I had to drop the engine and take off the trans, then beat the sender out with a hammer, also took some cutting on the darn thing. Then had the problem with the expansion plugs on the cams which took a couple of drops. Next summer I will drop it again for the ISMB, chain tensioners and a few other things. Do you have a lift or are you doing this on jack stands like I do?

Many years ago when my car was still under the original warranty I had some rear end noise and the dealer diagnosed it as bad rear wheel bearings. The work was done under warranty. They said the removed the rear control arms and carrier to press the bearings out on a press. The warranty charge was about $2,000! Glad to see there are alternatives.

No gaskets on the head to intake risers? It has been a few years since I had my engine apart but I am pretty sure I remember gaskets. Let me take a look at the manuals. If they are missing this would certainly be an area for leaks.

I think the Rennlist.com 928 forum is on of the most active forums around as a former owner (and who knows maybe a future owner) I like to follow it. I only wish that such forums existed for the 18 years that I drove 928's.

Sorry to hear that another problem has cropped up. Just curious did you confirm that the plunger for the bank 2 was different than for bank1? The old trick of spraying carb cleaner seems to indicate a vacuum leak, and there are lots of vacuum lines, boots, etc. that can leak. Given how bad the fuel filter was I think it is a good idea to check the injectors and replace those o-rings. I am trying to remember if you can turn off an injector With the Durametric, that can help to diagnose problems with injectors. I hope the manuals, etc. are helpful.

You can "rent" the inner tie rod tool from Advance Auto, and many other stores, for basically $0. They charge you the price of the tool, about $70 ad refund it when you return it. Replacing the tie rods is not a frequent enough job to justify thvexpense of buying the tool for most DIY's.

If the sump pan on an engine has never been dropped before you will be surprised on what you find. But most of the pieces wil be non-ferrous.