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san rensho

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Everything posted by san rensho

  1. san rensho
    Boxsters are not drag racers. They skip and shudder when you launch hard. Stop abusing your clutch.
  2. san rensho
    Check the MAF values. If the MAF values are low, it's definitely a vacuum leak and i would suspect the evap valve under left hand intake. If the MAF values are up to spec, then look at the fuel delivery and pressure.
  3. san rensho
    Check for a vacuum leak with the diametric. Check MAF values and fuel trims. If the MAF readings are below spec and the fuel trims are rich, then it's probably a vacuum leak. Could be a leak in the evap system. Pinch off the hose going from the evap system that connects at the throttle body. If the MAF and fuel trims go back to normal, it's the solenoid operated evap valve in the engine compartment.
  4. san rensho
    I just had a similar problem and it was a vacuum leak from the evap system. Theres a hose that connects to the throttle body that goes under the left hand intake manifold and connects to a solenoid valve. Pinch off that hose, if the problem goes away, then the problem is the valve.
  5. san rensho
    Well, I spent a couple of hours digging into the evap system at the front of tHe car. The Shut off valve, which is often diagnosed as the problem, works fine when I applied 12 volts to it, so I'm ruling that out. So I'm going to take a chance on the valve under the intake manifold. When I pinch off the line that goes to it, right near the throttle body, the vacuum leak goes away.
  6. san rensho
    If thats the one under the intake manifold, then yes. but my understanding is that there is a tank vent valve near the canister that opens and shuts to vent the canister, Are there two?
  7. san rensho
    Posted this on the 986forums and no definitive response, so I'll try here. I'm trying to chase down a vacuum leak in the evap system and I'm having trouble figuring out how the system works. Near the carbon canister, there is a "tank vent valve" (also called a purge valve) that is controlled by the DME to purge the carbon canister of fuel vapor under certain conditions. The TVV works in conjunction with another valve near it, the "shut off valve" which opens and closes to let fresh air into the system when the TVV is open and purging the carbon canister. So what is the purpose of another valve (I don't even know its name) under the intake manifold thats in the same circuit as the TVV?
  8. san rensho
    The right side transmission on my car has the dreaded cracked plastic gear, so I guess I have to bite the bullet and get a used transmission. The left side transmission has a cracked gear but it doesn't go all the way through, the crack goes to almost the outer diameter of the gear, just a few mm before the gear teeth. I drilled a small hole at the end of each crack, so hopefully it wont go any further. Is this going to work?
  9. san rensho
    If it were me, I wouldn't drive it. It could just be the RMS, which is messy but not critical, but it couls be the IMSB, which could be catastrophic. Pull the oil filter and check for ferrous metal, if you have metal, definitely do not drive it.
  10. san rensho
    Divide 340 by your weight in pounds (no cheating!). This will give you distance in feet. Mark that distance on your breaker bar and with the bar attached to the nut, stand on the breaker bar with all your weight at precisely the measured distance until the nut doesn't turn any more.
  11. san rensho
    I would leave it. you are barely over. In fact, if you follow the directions for checking the oil, get the car to operating temperature, turn it off and wait "a few" minutes and then check, I bet you are not even over on the dipstick.
  12. san rensho
    Try Mintex pads. They are probably the cheapest you can get yet they have a better coefficient of friction than the very expensive Brembo that Porsche wants you to buy. I have used Mintex on the track with no problems. The Brembos I used on the track built up material on the rotors and caused chatter.
  13. san rensho
    Also check the coolant tank for cracks, which is very typical in these cars. Pull up the carpet on the floor of the trunk under the tank. It will be obvious if its leaking.
  14. san rensho
    Neg camber can cause inner tire wear, but usually its toe that causes the wear. Getting toe as cose to zero as possible will reduce inside wear.
  15. san rensho
    Try to get as much negative canber out of the rear and get the toe to as close to zero as possible. It's hard to do both, but if you have to choose, get the toe to zero.
  16. san rensho
    I bought my 2000 2.7 with 115k miles on it in May. It has 118k now. No leaks, shifts perfectly, motor is silky smooth, especially at idle, suspension tight as a drum, no shakes or shimmies. Original clutch which is still in good shape. I get the classic clatter for a second on startup. Previous owner says most of the miles were highway, which I tend to believe since it averages to around 10k miles/year. I have his records and it was fairly well maintained at dealerships, but the oil change records are spotty. Looks he went by the book, 10k+ miles between changes. I've done oil analyses 3 times (did 2, 1k mile flushes)and they showed high iron in the first analysis but the iron levels have steadily gone down in subsequent tests. A few tiny bits of plastic in the filter and when I dropped the sump, again, just a few little bits of plastic, but I'm not concerned. I've had to do the usual repairs, waterpump, motor mount, coolant tank, AOS, gearbox oil change, PS oil flush, fuel filter. Once I need a clutch, I'll do the IMSB, in the meantime, everytime its up in the air I use a stethescope to listen to the IMSB housing and IMS chain tensioner and both are quiet. Its pretty well sorted out so on the weekends I just have to bathe and caress it. The car is blast, I love it.
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