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Correct. When I removed & reinstalled the actuator, I ensured that everything was in place and that the actuator arm could move freely, and that I could manually engage the lock properly. But even when the actuator was not installed and was just plugged in to the connector (with no risk of interference or resistance), it still did not move when I locked/unlocked the car. At this point, I've ruled out everything but the wiring harness and control unit. I highly doubt there is a problem with the wiring, though. The TPMS sensor antenna comes through that same path and it has no issues. I suspect it's going to come down to the control unit. I'm just not sure if this is a software issue that can be resolved by re-programming or a hardware issue that will require a new part (and presumably programming, too). I tried to see if I could reach the connector on the control unit referenced in the thread Ahsai linked too, but I couldn't get a good enough grip to disconnect it while contorted under the dash. I might try again in the coming days when I have a chance.
Other than the filler flap not locking/unlocking, no. There are no other problems with normal operation. The doors lock/unlock as expected. I'm not too worried about it, because I'm assuming it has been like that since I bought the car (used), and I just didn't notice it until I got the Durametric and stumbled across the code. But, I'd hate to give some mischievous kid the opportunity to pour sugar in the tank, etc. Although, nowadays, I'm guessing most people just assume the filler flap is locked and don't bother messing with it, unless they're willing to jimmy it open. But, since I have been off work for the last week & a half, I thought I'd try sorting this issue out along with some of the other regularly scheduled maintenance that I've been doing. I assumed it was just going to be a failed actuator, but unfortunately it looks like it wasn't that simple.
Sorry... I didn't mean to say that the actuator would twitch at the *moment* it was plugged in (i.e., during the process of plugging it in). I meant to say that it would twitch when I hit the lock/unlock on the key fob while it was plugged in. I assume the control module sends it +/-12V to actuate it. I was successfully able to actuate it with a 9V battery for testing. So, I know that the actuator is good, and since it didn't move while locking/unlocking the car, I can infer that there was no voltage at the connector. Ultimately, I'd just like to find the actual control module. Then, I can unplug the connector at both ends and use the ammeter to check for a short in the wire. If none is found, then I'll know that it is the control module that has failed. If one is found, then I'll have to decide if it's worth replacing the harness just to get the fuel filler door to lock again. :(
Thanks for clarification/confirmation!
I didn't specifically check w/ the voltmeter, but I'm going to say there was no voltage there. If there had been, the actuator would've at least twitched when it was plugged in.
Did this change from year to year? On my 2008 Carrera S, I found part number 997.610.105.11 in that location, not 997.618.516.01. 997.610.105.11 - Headlight Control Unit? 997.618.516.01 - Vehicle Electrical System Control Unit?
So, I'm getting the code in the title, but the problem isn't with the actuator itself. Can anyone help me troubleshoot it further? Vehicle: * 2008 Carrera S Symptoms: * Durametric code 8039: "Filler flap actuating element" under Vehicle Electrical System. Completed troubleshooting steps: * Confirmed that the actuator does not move when locking/unlocking car using the remote. * Clear the code, and it comes back the next time I lock/unlock the car using the remote. * Removed the actuator, connected to 9v battery and confirmed that it would move in both directions (based on polarity). * Ensured that the actuator was installed correctly and that the rod could move in/out freely. * Used an ammeter and found resistance when checking the connector that plugs into the actuator. Does this indicate a short? * Performed a visual inspection of the connector and wiring inside the fender and frunk area and saw no problems. I'd like to determine if there is a short in the wiring harness or if it is a problem with the associated Control Unit, so: Questions: * Which control unit does the Filler Flap Lock connect to? * Where is this control unit located on an '08 Carrera S? * What is the path of the wiring, once it passes the firewall? Thanks for any help!
mxt_77 replied to seahawkeye's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Most likely, you either: 1) Boiled the brake fluid, or 2) Glazed the pads. To resolve: For #1) Bleed (or better yet, flush) the brake fluid to get any air out of the lines. I recommend replacing with a high-temp fluid like Motul RBF600. It'll hold up better to track temps. If you're doing frequent track days, you should be flushing brake fluid regularly, anyway. For #2) Replace the pads. In theory, you could drive on them until eventually wearing off the glazing, but the one time that I glazed my pads, I observed that they also became brittle... so I'd recommend just replacing them. A lot of people use the factory pads for track days, so you can just put in a new set of stock pads. They'll generally hold up unless you're at a track that is hard on brakes, or unless your driving style is hard on brakes. Personally, I have a separate set of Pagid track pads that I use only on track days, because they dust/squeal too much for around-town use. I just swap them in & out for track days, which is a pretty easy task if you have a basic set of tools.
mxt_77 replied to ocmacman's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Also... looking at that picture, something doesn't look right about that rear wheel. Do they have a front wheel on the rear? Is the car sitting higher than normal?
mxt_77 replied to ocmacman's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Don't know about a repair manual, but you can get the parts manual from Porsche's website. http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/usa/997_USA_KATALOG.pdf That might help to show what is supposed to be there (and part numbers if you have to order anything).
mxt_77 replied to AP 997S's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Thanks for the replies. After removing the old coil packs, I saw that they are, indeed, different part numbers. The original (factory) coils for my 2008 Carrera S were Beru 0040100021 (Porsche 997.602.102.00). The new ones were Beru 0040100036. The old ones were a little less consistent. They were 0.7-1.0 ohms, so still about the same resistance. The new ones are installed, and so far things are looking good. I was previously having some intermittent misfires (when the car was very hot from long drives or track days) and low MPG under normal driving. It's hard to reproduce the misfire symptom, but I should be able to tell pretty quickly if my MPGs have improved.
mxt_77 replied to AP 997S's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Has anyone actually tested the resistance on a set of new coils? I just got a set of new Beru coils, and the resistance between pins 1 & 15 on all 6 of them is right at 1.0ohm. The chart above indicates that it should be 0.3-0.7ohms. Should I be concerned?
Awesome. Thanks for the follow up with detailed analysis & pics. I found a link based on the part number, and it looks like that switch module is about a $40 part. That's much better than the $180 you were originally quoted. Good luck! I hope that replacing this part resolves your issue.
Sorry I was slow to get back to you. I just now had a chance to go out to the garage and play around with it a bit. The part that the arrow points to appears to just be a rubber stopper to absorb the impact of the door lever. The smaller button below and to the left of that is actually the switch/sensor. You can test it by pulling the lever open a bit and pushing it in or releasing it. Of course, you already know this doesn't work, so that's the likely culprit. There's a protrusion on the back of the lever that should push that button in when the lever is closed. Verify that hasn't cracked or broken off (unlikely). Then just make sure that whatever you ordered from the dealer includes whatever that button is connected to. Looks like it must be contained with the "insert", which is the piece with the window switches, etc. I'm assuming it connects to the box from this pic that has the red connector plugged into it. It might be worth disassembling the door panel though, just to see what's back there. Maybe you can source a switch independently, rather than paying $180 for the whole replacement part from the dealer..