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Showing results for tags 'diy'.
Found 13 results
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My trunk latches are locked and no longer working. I diagnosed the problem as a failing trunk latch actuator (the servo that locks the trunk latches, part # 996.624.115.01) - undoubtedly, the result of my recent immobilizer water damage. :( Has anyone replaced theirs before? How do I get in there? The PET doesn't seem to help me understand how the whole thing is assembled. It looks like I might have to remove the carpeting in order to remove the bracket in which the actuator is located. Any tips? Thanks! Jay -
The left door key switch on my 00’ 996 c4 will not lock or unlock. I took the handle and bracket out of the door frame. I was told what usually breaks is the cylinder but nothing appears to be broken. I don’t want to buy a new key so simply replacing the bracket isn’t an option. Is there a straight forward solution or do I need a specialist?? Any my feedback would be much appreciated thanks! -
I have a 2004 Cayenne S. I just got it recently, interior lights have never worked. I checked the fuse and it was blown. It calls for a 20 amp fuse but the blown one in it was a 25 amp. I had the key in the ignition if I remember correctly and put the new 20 amp fuse in and everything came on. Side note, I noticed a weird glitch with the light above the rear passenger side door and the switch on the main map reading light. The interior lights had gone off and I turned the back on and the backlight above to passenger side door was very dim. I slid the switch on the overhead console for the main map light and the rear light came back to full strength. I found that odd. Everything then worked fine. I took the key out. Next time I put the key in, immediately heard the fuse blow. Any ideas on where to start? -
Hello all Planning to replace the gauge cluster in a 2010 GTS with a Turbo gauge cluster and have a few questions. In researching this swap, I found some references in the archives to swaps done as far back as 2006 or so, but no answers to the questions below. I did a test fitment this past weekend and planning to do a permanent swap in the coming weeks when mileage on both clusters is the same (or within 10 miles or so!) In the settings on the Turbo cluster, COMFORT is in all caps and subsequent menus overlap in all caps. It appears setting can be set. Does this quirk affect usage at all? Is it possible/simple to swap the clock set button + trip mileage reset button? On the Turbo cluster the clock is half worn off, but on my GTS cluster it is perfect. I would like to keep the better looking clock set button if possible/simple. Any possibility of swapping in voltmeter on Turbo cluster? I know the gauge front is one big piece and may be tough to get right, but more wondering if the electronics are there and would be plug-and-play behind since the wiring sends the battery/electrical volt data to the cluster. (clearly I am not an electrical engineer!) If question 3 is an absolute NO, then how do you Turbo owners know how many volts your battery/electrical system is putting out (without the use of a radar detector that can tell you)? Thanks for reading this far, and thanks in advance for any useful responses to my queries above. el greggo -
Just posted a docu. on my completed 02 996 M96 3.6 l engine rebuild for a gorgeous C4 cab barn find, I bough back in August 17 as roller with complete engine (Head&Case failure). http://ow.ly/SjDf30fJkID It is not about performance upgrades or how it should be done. Is about the process to get it done with very details on the critical steps for the hands-on engineer. The car drives fantastic now, and if it breaks I will be confidently enough to spend the needed money and time to order on the new hard parts (Nickies, rods, heads, etc.... For now I did not spend anything other than on a high-mileage used 997.1 donor engine and a couple of 996 cases with paired pistons/rings from engines with other type of failures). I wish I had an alike docu. when I started - so I share it here, and hopefully it is useful for someone who wants to bring a M96 996 3-chain engine back to life . -
I have a 2009 997.2 PDK Carrera 2 and am getting a loss of power and this error code: 2510: Fuel high-pressure control - adaptation. Value below lower limit value I believe this means my HPFP is dead and am looking for the workshop procedure for replacing the high pressure fuel pump HPFP. I have looked far and wide for a DIY tutorial on this, but found nothing. My local stealership will do the work for $900 labor plus parts. I have sourced the pump for $850 and want to do the work myself. The pump looks readily accessible at the back right end of the engine, facing the rear bumper. I am happy to write this up as a DIY with pics if someone can forward me the workshop manual pages or procedure? -
Hi, The cupholder in my 2003 996 cab has broken. Does anyone know where I might find a used or refurbished replacement cupholder. Or at last resort a new replacement. Also anyone know where I can find diy on replacement process? Thank you in advance. -
Has anyone tried one of these yet: http://www.bendpak.com/Shop-Equipment/QuickJack/BL-3500.aspx I purchased the BL-3500 thinking that it would be perfect to lift up my 996 turbo. We can argue about weight margin later. It seems like plenty to lift up that car. The issue becomes the lift point locations on the car. The BL-3500 can only reach out to 46" between its rubber stops. If one was to purchase the BL-5000 it only reaches about 51" maximum. I've measured 54" center to center of the 996 lift points. This seems like it makes this product a no go with 996/986 and 997/987 owners. Does anyone have any advice that would provide good placement for other spots under the car that can be used to hoist it up inside of the 46" limits. Or have I been shortsighted and wasted my time? It all seemed like it would be perfect. Cheers, Todd -
Hello RT. I am looking to replace the dirver side fender on a 997 2006 Carrera S. It also needs a bumper (front with washers). I also need the stock headlights. I am hoping to do this myself. The fender has quite a few lines running behind it for washers and things. Any tips, DIY for fender replacement or direction to a good 911 repair manual would be outstanding. Thanks. ocmacman -
Didn't find any TT or awd specific posts regarding this, so I was hoping I could get a quick walk through of the front control arm replacement procedure. My car is an '01 996TT. I found this, and the control arm and track arm look very similar in the picture so I am guessing it is closely resembling ours? ( http://kevingosselin.blogspot.com/2009/08/boxster-control-arm-replacment-in-total.html ) But that link doesn't deal with any front half shafts. Do I need to remove the hub assembly to do my front control arms? Should I have new CV boots/clamps standing by? Thanks for any pointers! -Connor
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2000, C4 Cab Help! I was just patting myself on the back after getting the transmission back in and only had the sway bar and wheels to refit. Decided to check the clutch felt right and unfortunately it doesn't. The pedal is really soft and the clutch doesnt disengage. I didn't open any hydraulic lines but could this just be air? Or do I need to drop the transmission again to check what's wrong inside? If I take the slave cycliner off can I gently press the clutch pedal to see if it drives the slave? As far as I can tell everything went back together OK so I'm stuck... -
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RennTech.org long time member, technical expert, and long time supporter Richard Hamilton has written an excellent new book that is a must have for every 996, 996TT, GT2, and GT3 owner. The book has many technical specs as well as sales numbers. From how things work in this series Porsches to technical tips and common problem solutions with "how to" descriptions. From Amazon "This handy glovebox sized book gives the owner the key information needed to own and maintain the Porsche 911 Carrera (996) (1997-2004). There’s a year by year description of all the model types and changes, basic and not so basic maintenance, tips on how to get the best from the car and sections on customization and improvement. This book aims to give the owner an introduction to the fun of owning a 996 and is a primer for some of the easier home mechanic tasks." NOW AVAILABLE at Amazon (US) for only $26.91 $26.60 -- 911 (996 series) Ultimate Owners Guide The book is also on Amazon UK (http://www.amazon.co...PIP&sn=pmmbooks). You can also buy this book direct from the publisher http://www.pmmbooks.com -- pricing is 22.95 GBP or $35.75 US. Of course of you purchase through the RennTech.org online store - then RennTech.org gets a (very) small commission from Amazon. We'll post a link when US Amazon makes it available. I could not recommend any Porsche book higher than this one. Congratulations to Richard on a GREAT book! Below are some content images from the book... -
New to this Board and looking for some immediate guidance on a specific problem with my coolant reservoir (leak). If anyone can answer this, it would be greatly appreciated. I have an 2001 S with 65,000 miles. I noticed the aforementioned coolant leak. I've ordered the #01 new style cap (wish Porsche had bothered to tell me about that one!) and am waiting for it. in the meantime I am either trying to seal the leak with some plastic weld that another user had success with - OR - I will try and replace the tank itself if need be. HERE'S THE QUESTION THOUGH: In every posting I see it refers to just how difficult this DIY job is because "you have to remove the hoses from inside the engine compartment on the other side of the firewall", and "almost need drop the tranny to get to the c-clips". BUT MINE SURE DOESN'T LOOK LIKE THAT! (See attached photo) All I'm seeing are three rubber coolant hoses with c-clamps on both ends, and the oil fill tube, and the oil dipstick line. That's it! So I am left wondering if my build got a newer style coolant reservoir that is easier to remove - OR am I just that stupid and asking for big-trouble in trying to do this? Anyone know if I remove those three hoses can I A) either move the tank around enough to get to the underside and REALLY seal the leak? OR 2) remove the tank entirely and replace it myself? Oh, man thank you if you know the answer!
