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Silver_TT

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Everything posted by Silver_TT

  1. Kind of hard for me to see what's going on in that picture you have in the .pdf. I have edited Loren's photo and drawn a black down arrow showing you where the relays are. If you just unscrew this panel (should be held on by just a bolt or two) and flip it over then you will see what's shown in my second picture. I have circled the fuse you are looking for in red.
  2. If you removed the rear panel, you will see the metal plate as shown in Loren's second picture. The relays are bolted to the underside of that metal panel.
  3. Right. Loren does have a very relevant point. Part has been revised multiple times, makes it less surprising. Should be a free replacement under warranty as stated. To clarify your question about the fuel system, as I mentioned, this very possibly could be related. Should be no hesitation under load with the 996TT-- quite the opposite.
  4. Wouldn't have anything specifically to do with 2nd gear but, yes, if the fuel system isn't properly delivering fuel then you would experience a "break" or interruptions, especially under heavy load (acceleration). The engine needs properly delivery of fuel to run optimally.
  5. Very good points about the larger K24s on the X50. Just my opinion, but I would not use an ECU tune to try to address this.
  6. Yes, please post updates until you are 100% sure you have solved the problem. Too often there are good threads like this that end with the original poster never following up with a conclusion.
  7. What specifically do you mean by "turbo lag". My entry into the Porsche world is pretty recent, starting with the 996. But my understanding is that turbo lag was more of a thing of the past. For example, my 996TT never really needed much time to spool the turbos and get power. As soon as you step on the gas, it gets violent extremely quick. Do you have ECU tunes on the car? Or are the only mods you have what you stated? The 996TT (x50 especially) has tons of power and you should not be experiencing much lag compared to other turbo engines.
  8. Very sad story, I'm sorry to hear that. Jpflip, I was not surprised when I read it was you that was helping someone work through this issue after I first found this thread. Thank you for the contributions of your knowledge you have made over the years on this site (and others). This site is much stronger because of a handful of people specifically, and you are certainly one of them.
  9. A lot of folks gap the Bosch FR6LOC plugs around ~ 0.028, but I would stick with spec in my own car. Certainly sounds like yours were too far out of spec regardless, so hopefully that's what is causing your problem (it often is the plugs and/or packs as the culprit when dealing with misfires). Hopefully you can trust that they put on new coil packs and this debacle with the plugs was just an innocent mistake. By the way, not sure if you're running stock boost or not, but some gap tighter if running higher boost. I personally don't have any direct experience with that as I always ran stock boost and nothing but stock boost.
  10. They installed different plugs than what they told you they did? Sounds like it's time to get a new mechanic who knows what they are doing.
  11. Sorry to respond to a post from 2009, but if you guys are still around .... I'm dying to know......... how did this end? Terrible to leave your thread in this condition with us hanging like this ^_^
  12. I don't want to be a downer but I don't think anyone can tell you for sure that you don't have a more serious issue (like a valve issue or something else) before we figure out what's going on. It's good your car runs well and that this only happens on cold idle, but is still a pretty serious fundamental issue in my opinion. Even though I don't think the odds are that high in your case, anything that might have the cams out of timing isn't something I would take lightly if it were my car. This is one of the most fundamental and critical aspects of your engine. Yes, you have one of the best Porsche engines ever made....but anything is still possible. Dump a bottle of techron in before your next full tank of gas. It's cheap and worth a shot, and good to do anyway. Never a bad idea to get your oil changed shortly after this, but I wouldn't fret too much if you're not due for an oil change just yet -- it's just good form if you can. Get the variocam and bracket looked at closely. Make sure you are 100% sure that everything we have gone over looks ok. If you're sure about all those things I think it is in fact something more serious with the engine.... but if I had to take a shot in the dark, my money is still on an issue with the variocam. Report back once you're able to get these things we discussed looked at by a professional.
  13. Yes, those are good brands on the plugs and coils -- should be fine. I mean, possible they didn't torque and space the plugs correctly, but given that you said you had this problem for years before those were ever touched I'm wondering how likely that is. If that were the case then, yes, it could cause misfires. Just doesn't seem like the most likely cause. Don't think the ECU needs any more time. The fuel cap was presumably not air-tight before you replaced it and that's why the error went away after you did. My thought was that this leaky cap could have caused unmetered air to enter into the system and make your trims too lean as RPM increases -- therefore causing misfires. I would think that once you fixed that problem with the cap anything related to this issue was over then on the spot.
  14. Don't think it's the O2s because a problem here should show-up in your fuel trims. If you want to make sure your O2s are working, these values can be logged in Durametric. I'm not a practitioner so I'm not sure how often a batch of plugs can be bad (in your case it's not just a single plug). I would think this is very rare for Bosch, which are good plugs. But anything is possible. As you are, I wouldn't sit on this if it were a variocam issue. In theory if your timing is off it leaves open the possibility that there could be valve/piston contact. Someone can double check me and look in the manual, but if memory serves the 996TT variocam is activated when the engine oil is cold at idle speeds. Please verify this, but this is one of the things making me wonder if you could have an actuator that's not 100%. I really think you need to look at that bracket. Anyway, I'm not sure but I think only the intercooler needs to come off....so it's not like you're dropping the engine. Can't really think of anything I would do while the intercooler is off unless you're interested in welding a few of the coolant lines.
  15. To be honest, I think you need to get JFP in PA to chime in here if you can get his attention. We have been over the "usual suspects": You fixed the gas tank leak issue and there are no other codes except these misfires. You already replaced the plugs and packs. You said you are comfortable with the cam/timings, and have checked any issues possibly related to the variocam. You said the fuel trims are good. I would just check and double check your work on these to be sure you are comfortable that they have really been eliminated. If I'm not mistaken, if it's not something above you could have a more serious problem. Like I said, the Mezger isn't invincible but it's a **** good engine. Given some of the stuff you are saying, it's really hard to say for sure without actually being able to see it, but it sounds possibly related to variocam to me (eg. actuator).
  16. Yes, you also definitely want to check those cam deviations closely to make sure they are within spec. Could also be related, I believe, to a variocam solenoid as I believe variocam is activated at idle speeds and you said this is only on idle. Definitely check the bracket that holds the actuator. Checking these and the fuel trims should tell you a lot.
  17. Ok, so you're still getting misfires. And how do the fuel trims look against spec? It's always good to give background on recent service, such as you said you just had the plugs and coil packs done. You use premium gas, and that's fine, but I was referring to moisture and just making sure the fuel is fresh. For folks that keep the car in a more humid climate this can be an issue, especially if the car isn't driven every day. Even if the cap fixed your gas tank issue, you still need to make sure the fuel trims look ok. If you have done all this and are comfortable with what you are seeing then, like Ahsai said, it may be time for a leak down compression test. Anything is possible, however, this wouldn't be my first guess as your engine is widely known as one of the best engines Porsche ever made. Things happen, but if maintained properly these engines are not often as prone to fundamental failures.
  18. Yes, the CEL is only triggered by the DME similar to what I described above when a certain threshold of criteria is met (eg. so many misfires within a certain period of time). However, that said you really should not be getting misfires, so I would start by addressing the issue above and then starting to think about things like when the last time was that you changed your coil packs and plugs.... and making sure you have good, fresh fuel with no moisture. Like I said above though, if you have a vacuum leak in the fuel tank, it can cause unmetered air to enter and cause you to run too lean, which could potentially result in a misfire.
  19. Link does not work for me. I don't have it in front of me but it should be pretty easy to find if you look through all the variables. You can also simply call Durametric and ask them where they are in the software interface. They are friendly and generally answer the phone with a person without going through a lot of prompts. I'm sure they would be happy to answer a question like this for one of their new users.
  20. A lot of these "readiness states" are not set instantaneously and are rather set as the DME takes measurements over a period of time. It's possible this issue has manifested itself since you had the test done, but this should have shown up if it was the kind of test where they simply plug in their reader through he OBD2 port and you did have this issue at the time. As a matter of fact, most states now don't even actually test these "states" directly -- they simply query these "ready states" from your DME and ask if everything is ok. If you're car says "PASS" to all of them, they give you a pass and you go on your way for the next year or two until the next test. If this is the gas cap, which it often can be, this is the cheap-to-replace low-hanging fruit so to speak. You need to be sure you're getting a nice tight seal. I would address this first, as it could be the cause of your misfires..... have you looked at your fuel trims? A vacuum leak could cause your fuel trims to go out of spec and therefore cause misfire(s). You should be able to monitor the fuel trims in the Durametric in realtime, and I would test as the RPM increases. If your fuel trim keeps getting leaner as RPM increases, this indicates a fuel delivery issue -- aka unmetered air entering into the system from that leak. To this point, you may be able to hear the air leak at the gas cap as you rev the engine a little.
  21. Ok, I see. That is one of the emissions checks then. Just FYI as we are getting close to the end of the year, you won't be able to pass an emissions test until you get that fixed. The cap is the usual suspect and cheapest place to start. Before you just replace it for no reason though I would specifically inspect it and the seal. Make sure it's creating an air-tight seal and there isn't a vacuum leak.
  22. This is good. So now you at least know what the real problems are -- much easier to troubleshoot this way. One other thing is it's always ideal to post the actual error code (and not just the description). Based on what you are showing, I would address the issue with the fuel tank ventilation system. Usual culprit is the gas cap or seal so I would check that to start. If you do want to monitor the car in realtime as you mentioned, this is possible using the Durametric. Yes, you will need to have it connected to the car while it's running to capture the logs in Durametric. There are a TON of variables you can monitor in the DME.
  23. I'm not a gambler but I bet it's the scanner and that's not correct. You often see things like this when using scanners that aren't Porsche specific. They can miss codes or throw phantom codes. You will know tomorrow once your Durametric arrives. Let us know how it goes.
  24. There's a lot of garbage information (mixed in with some good information) out there on most of the other Porsche sites because they are by and large not moderated. Even if this dealer isn't trustworthy, they would not have been able to overwrite this data using a PIWIS or PST2.
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