Silver_TT

1. Connect ohmmeter connector part to rpm/crankshaft position sensor, pins 1 and 2. Display at 20 °C: 0.8 – 1.0 k Ohms 2. Connect ohmmeter connector part to rpm/crankshaft position sensor, pins 1 and 3.Display: infinite ohms

Regarding #1: Maurice has some good info here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/22767-heated-seats-will-not-work/ Regarding #2: Might want to look at your washer fluid pump. Regarding #3: Be sure all your drains are clear and not obstructed. Regarding #4: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/39553-power-driver-seat/

Ahh, the window regulator.....not my favorite job to do on these cars. :) Thanks for looking at the purge fan in your TT also. Just 2.6A, huh? How much more was it on start (this is when my fuse was blowing)? Doesn't that mean my simple/cheap multimeter should be able to measure it? It looked to me like my multimeter can handle up to 10A. Will I blow my multimeter if the fan is putting out 15A+ (as we have to assume it would since it was blowing a 15A fuse)? Does this need to be measured while the fan is plugged in to the wiring harness or stand-alone/unplugged (like when measuring the resistance)? I had binned the old fan, but I can grab it out of the trash if you think my multimeter can test this (we know it's the fan now, but just for "extra credit" :)).

Problem was solved by replacing the engine purge fan. $90 all-in included shipping from Sunset -- who is awesome by the way: I ordered the fan (which is a special order part) on a Monday morning and it was delivered to me today, Saturday. Jesse and the others in Parts over there at Sunset are outstanding. Very much on the ball, I've done quite a bit of business with them over the years and they never let me down. The fan part comes with the housing. Replacement is so simple I didn't even bother posting a picture of it. There are 3 bolts around the fan housing that hold it to the trunk lid. Move the light over to the new fan housing. Takes less than 5 minutes to replace. Popped in a new 15A fuse and it's holding just fine even with the blower on a few minutes after being activated with Durametric. Previously it was blowing in less than 1 second. Without an ammeter I'll never know for 100% sure, but seems highly probable the old fan I replaced was pulling significantly more load than what is spec for this device. Good learning experience for me troubleshooting electrical issues and also learned how to access the relays. If I ever have to do anything like this again it should only take a fraction of the time now that I've done this. The fan replacement was trivial but it was the troubleshooting that was of value in this particular exercise. Hope it can help someone else in the future. Lots of good help on this one, so numerous +1s above. Solid guidance helped me nail this which is VERY MUCH appreciated. Just in time for my girl to get back into town this afternoon and for the weather here to jump to 90s+. I tip my hat to you gentlemen. Thank you very much.

Figured they would. Glad you got it sorted and it was that easy/cheap.

It's just a small light to illuminate the light housing when the running lights are activated. These burn out quite often (I've done the replacement 3 times, no others in the headlight assembly) but are very easy to replace....and cost just ~ $3. Even if the filament looks ok, I wouldn't necessairly assume it's good -- they can have bad connections in the bulb itself. I would probably start by getting a new bulb.

Is this the one you're asking about? (circled in red). That should be the position light. You might find this link helpful: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/905-02.php

Gbox labor is $1,000 for a rebuild (could be a little more if extensive work is needed). The rest is going to be parts. $4,500 gearbox was $3,000 in parts, $1,200 labor and $300 shipping (one way). Gearbox now is very sharp, practically brand new. Stan (the owner) is very knowledgable and should be able to tell you a lot if you just have a conversation with him. I think he's been working on Porsche gearboxes for something like 25 or 30 years.

Related question: How ill advised would it be to track my car tomorrow night for maybe 6 sessions @ 25 mins each? The ambient temperature will be around 80 F. I could open the trunk between sessions to let the engine cool. Is this a bad idea until my engine compartment fan is working... or something I should be able to get away with without risking stressing the car?

Use a durametric

Just ordered the fan from Sunset: $74.15 + shipping. They didn't have it in stock and it's 3-4 days to ship to them -- then they will have to turn around and ship it to me. Earliest I would have it is Saturday (I hope!)....if not, then early next week. Will update this thread once the new fan is installed to let you guys know if the fuse still blows when I tell Durametric to activate the fan. Let's hope the cold front that just moved in here sticks for the week. Thanks again guys!

Thanks jpflip. Sorry for the confusion, I had been looking at the Carerra's diagram in that other post and needed to look at the Turbo's (it's in the Turbo's diagram so this must only be true for the Turbo?). This is very useful to know in the work you were helping me with earlier today. I am learning a lot more about the DME / ECU from this experience.

thanks jpflip!!! I was looking at the Carerra diagram above at first...but I found the Turbo's diagram and it says "engine compartment fan (optional)". Your response now enables me to understand why that is. Interesting, I didn't know that until you explained just now.

Sorry to revive and old thread but what is fuse C5? The diagram says "Engine compartment fan (option)"....whereas B4 says "Engine compartment fan". What's the "(option)" part all about???

I would echo what Loren said. I recently traded up to a Turbo for this exact reason. Also, as far as software goes, most of it is BS. It will cause you more problems than it's worth. I recently took the "chipped" software off that the previous owner had put on my Turbo. I took it off because it wasn't passing generic OBD2 emissions tests eventhough the PIWIS/Durametric Porsche-specific tools were saying all 5 readyness states were "PASS". After I reflashed to stock it passed just fine. Aka the software had a bug or wasn't tested with the most recent version of the company's software that does the emissions testing in my state. After taking the software off my Turbo I can't tell a single bit of difference in the power. Over 4K RPMs in the car, with the software or without it, will make your heart stop. I also had Gbox (one of the most -- if not the most -- reputable Porsche gearbox shops in the world) rebuild my gearbox. The owner, Stan, told me shortshifters (non-factory I would assume he meant) are not a good idea on these gearboxes and often lead to increased wear and internal damage. He does not recommend them. Bottom line, IMHO, stick to stock configurations and OEM parts. Porsche knows what they are doing and if you mod the car you're deviating from their known and tested configuration. Maybe it will be fine, maybe it won't. Often times the benefits are little to none, at the expense of potentially causing yourself problems like what I described above.

yes, you're right jpflip! Thanks for pointing that out -- I missed that. Amazon is selling "The Hook" for $315 with free shipping. Still not bad and reading amperage would be nice to have. I think my brain is a bit fried from having my head in the hot engine compartment of the TT for the last 24 hours :wacko:

Ya, that's interesting, I just noticed that -- one probe tip instead of two like my multimeter has. That's interesting as I would have thought it needed to have two to test for complete continuity. For example in our continuity test we were testing from two leads, one lead to the metal housing, etc. I guess this one is able to do that all with one single probe somehow. Pretty fancy. It's only $100 on amazon with free shipping and I have a $35 credit over there anyway I was looking to use at some point in the future so I think now is as good a time as any to pick one up. If you think this is a good one, I will spring for it. Without having used these kind of tools I generally lean on what someone like you had used and says works well. I am just a novice DIYer, a wanna-be really, not stupid enough to think I'm smarter or know better than you guys with the experience.

Thanks, JFP. I'll pick one up. You never need something like one of these until you need it ;)

Ya, the only other thing I would say is that my multimeter is about as cheap as they come. I literally bought it on eBay when I was in college for like $5. Probably not the most accurate or sohpisticated.

Assuming the Turbo pulls the same or similar amps as the C2, that's pretty low amperage. Wouldn't my $2 multimeter from FleaBay be capable of measuring this? If so, does the multimeter need to measure this while the power is already being supplied from the power source? Or is the multimeter capable of measuring this if I just contact the two leads on the multimeter to the two leads on the fan? As far as the direct battery -> fan connection with a fuse in the middle, that makes a lot of sense and conceptually is very simple. However, it's just me at home today and I don't really know how I would do that with only 2 hands. I would have to solder the wires to the fuse or something and I can't find my soldering gun. If I show up at Auto Zone again they are going to think I'm either stealing or insane. I forgot that Sunset parts is closed on Sundays but I am going to call then tomorrow at 8am PST to get a fan ordered. Probably will get here Wednesday if they have one already in stock. Looking around at some other places, looks like I should be able to get an OEM fan for around $75 + shipping.

Don't feel bad JFP. My better half is German (like real German, not of German descent). If this ends up being the fan I know she is going to point to that "Made in Italy" sticker on the fan (see post #5 of this thread) :huh: . I'm trying to get this fixed ASAP while she is out of the country because when she's back I'm not going to have much time to work on it. Thank you guys!!!! :notworthy:

Ok, jpflip, well I don't feel so bad now that I couldn't get an ammeter. I went to Auto Zone and Home Depot both and even for $150+ all the multi-function meteres that include DC amperage measurability only go up to 10A. What's up with that? So, correct me if I'm wrong but it sounds like we are all in agreement that this is very likely the fan itself. jpflip, looks like that part # you have has been superceded. My fan looks like it already has been replaced because it shows part 997 624 046 01 (Loren says US MSRP is $119.85). I will call Sunset when they open in 1.5 hours and get this ordered. Hopefully it will be here middle of this week. While I would have liked to test this with a ammeter to drill deeper it seems like it's we have enough information to say, while not completely definitively, but highly probable that this is something to do with the fan. I owe all of you a huge thanks for guiding me through this. Will post the results once the fan gets here and I put it in (looks like a cakewalk to do).

jpflip - with the wiring harness uplugged at the fan, and telling Durametric to activate the Engine compartment purge fan, the LED light on the B4 fuse does NOT light up. This means it must be the fan, no?

I put in the LED fuse. Had durametric turn on the engine purge blower. Looked at the LED fuse, sure enough the LED fuse is lit up as I would expect. However, as soon as I unplug the wire from the fan the LED fuse goes off. Does this mean it's the fan that's causing the short??????

Just bought these at AutoZone and am going to install now. I will follow Ahsai's instructions with the fan and the 12-pin harness to start......: "Plug it in and let the fuse blow. After that, the LED on the fuse will light up whenever the circuit is powered (when you use durametric to turn on the fan). Now you can go disconnect each segment of the cable starting from the fan end. If the LED goes out, you found the segment that is shorted."