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Tom M
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Everything posted by Tom M
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Loren, I'm getting ready to pull this out but it doesn't seem like there's any place to really remove the trim starting at the bottom as it wraps underneath on the 958. I can certainly start at the top but don't want to risk damaging any of the clips in case they're sensitive to the order of removal. The more I research it seems like I may need to remove the vents to gain access to the mounting screws as the trim seems like it's fixed the the PCM. If that's the case I guess I need to know how to remove the vents if that's the case. UPDATE: Looks like I need to make/buy a set of Ford radio removal tools to remove the vents and that will allow access to the screws holding the PCM. I found instructions as part of the NAV-TV backup camera installation. -
Well, it only moves if I'm driving briskly ^_^ Is there any way to put more tension on the sun visor connection? We've got roundabouts in these parts and depending on how fast the turn is (they're all counter-clockwise so it's a left hand turn) the visor will move over and bump into me. It may just be it's way of telling me to slow down but it is rather annoying. Is there any way to easily put more friction/tension on it so it won't move unless done so manually?
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Thanks Loren. Since you didn't mention it is it safe to assume there's no issues with driving the vehicle with the PCM out.
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I'll be removing my PCM to send in to Becker in NJ for repair as it's been determined that the brightness won't change because something in the PCM unit is defective. The good news is the selling dealer is going to cover at least 1/2 the cost of the repair. So, along those lines I've got 2 questions. How do I actually remove the unit (I'm guessing just remove the bezel trim with a trim tool and then remove a few screws) Can I drive the car while the PCM is out for repair without any issues? (The local dealer thought it might throw a few error codes but that it should drive fine, but he wasn't positive) Becker says depending on what the problem is they may need to completely wipe the data which would mean the unit would need to be reprogrammed to the VIN. The dealer said they'd never done one but it shouldn't be any different than if they had to order a replacement unit so he figures it would only be an hour or so of a tech's time if that's needed. Hopefully it's just a flex cable as the Becker person said the PCM 3.x units don't suffer from solder issues and the screen seems fine ot then not responding to the brightness changes. What's weird is the display has changed brightness from when I brought the car home and it does do the day/night changes but it's still not adjustable by using the PCM settings.
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Yes, the parking brake wants to know the gap between the shoe/rotor. Since you are now changing one of those measurements, It must be told by the tester what the new gap is. Since the parking brake doesn't really wear against the surface (unless you somehow drive with it engaged) I would think that it would be virtually the same after any replacement. Is this not the case? Curious as I'll be needing to do my brakes in the not too distant future.
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Thanks. The local stealer has them at a high price so I was looking for an OEM solution. By the time I pay for shipping from Suncoast or Sunset it puts them at roughly $68 for a set ot wipers. I don't mind paying a bit more than in the old days but even the Boxster wiper blades I would buy were only $25 or so from the dealer. These really can't cost more than about $5-$10 to manufacture/package - hence looking for the Bosch OEM soluition.
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I can't seem to find a Bosch p/n for wiper blades for 2011-2014. I found some on Amazon for a Touareq which should be the same but using the p/n they provide on Bosch says it's bad. Anybody have a correct p/n for Bosch OEM blades?
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There aren't any faults but I did talk to the service manager at the selling dealer today and he's going to check with Porsche. Unfortunatley it's a 2+ hour drive to there so I'm trying to avoid that if possible. If they come up with a probable fix that is just using the computer I'll visit the local dealer to see if I can get it done.
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Well, it does switch between day & night modes but the brightness level won't change. I can scroll up & down from +6 to -6 and the display stays the same brightness. This is even true after I had the PCM unit upgraded to v2.47. Is there a way to reset this somehow? I seem to recall reading a post somewhre but can't remember where it was.
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I'd like to get a replacement cover for the positive terminal jumper point for my 2011 CS. I've searched based on the numbers on the existing, broken, cover but it appears that the part may only be available by purchasing the entire jump point. Does it have a separate part number or will I need to look for someone parting out a current generation Cayenne/Touareg to get just the cover? The existing full jump point number from the cover is 7P0937401, which appears to be a VW p/n.
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This seems to have been related to the battery voltage. I charged the battery over the course of several days using a CTEK 3300 and it now seems to work. At least it changes brightness manually - I haven't driven it when it's been dark since charging it.
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I just picked up a new to me 2011 CS and can't seem to get the PCM screen to change brightness so it was a major pain driving it home tonight with the glare. I followed the procedure in the manual but it doesn't seem to make any difference. Choosing the brightness of the display Press the CAR button. Press the OPTION button or touch the tab of the same name in the header. Select "SET PCM system" > "Display PCM" > "Screen" > "Brightness". I tried "Automatic" as well as Night Mode and it stayed on what I would consider a daylight setting. Hopefully I'm missing something obvious here as the dealer checklist shows everything works and when I inspected the vehicle it was light out so I didn't notice the issue.
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I finally got around to replacing the gasket & washer on the fuel filler neck. The process was fairly easy and I managed to do it w/o taking off any of the lines be removing the one valve clamped to the neck. After getting it replaced and buttoning everything up I took it for a test drive and discovered the problem still exists. :( So, for now at least, I'm at a loss as to the actual source of the problem. I've replaced both tank gaskets so that either leaves a small leak in the tank itself, one of the pieces of tubing or one of the valves. Since it's not the end of the world it's going to have to wait to get repaired - probably at the dealer. Again, the odd thing is that it really only happens when stopping hard and making the fuel int the tank slosh around.
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Just got done placing the order including new rivets, plastic nuts, gas cap, gasket & washer. The latter 2 need to be ordered (3-4 days wait) so hopefully I can get this fixed early next week. It would cost almost as much to return the washer & gasket as to toss them out ($6.81 each) so I'm not going to worry about it. As far as the vent tubing goes, if I need new I'll buy some correctly rated stuff locally as the official parts are $50+ each. I'll just be careful during the removal process. :)
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I don't have the filler tube out yet as I need to use up most of the fuel in the tank in order to remove it. However since the leak seems to be where it joins the tank I would guess I really only need a new gasket & maybe a new support washer (996.201.753.00 & 996.201.755.00). I just hate to order too little and wind up needing to order more parts. Perhaps I'll wait until I get the fuel level down and pull the tube before deciding what to do. How difficult is it to remove all the vent lines as they look pretty stiff and may be difficult to reuse. Would it be best for these to be ordered as well?
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I called Sunset and based on my VIN they say I need 996.201.043.07 @ $305 vs. 996.201.043.09 @ 219. Apparently the -07 is for cars equipped with the OBDII. Does this make any sense? Should I be able to reuse the component off my existing setup?
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I've got a pending order with Sunset of all the ancillary parts I need after dis-assembly and now that I (hopefully) know what the problem is I'll call them in the morning to get a price. Do you know how difficult the job really is or is it truly as simple as the manual makes it sound?
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I broke down and bought a combustible gas detector and as far as I can tell it appears to be leaking from the top portion of where the filler tube enters the tank. How often does this fail? Also, how does the filler tube seat at the tank and how difficult is it to replace? The shop manual shows it's a 7 step process and that it's just a twist fit so it sounds like it could be a DIY. There's a new filler tube on eBay but the revision number is higher that what I've got in my PET version.
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Loren, I take it those faults won't throw a code since I don't have any current/pending codes showing? Having the dealer run the test will cost more than just ordering the part so that's out. I'll check around to see if there's anybody local that may have something which can be used.
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Is there a specific test that I can perform on the bleeder valve (996.201.143.01) to confirm correct operation?
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More test results. I started the car and just let it idle while I went around and did the sniff test. Initially there was no noise from the solenoid/valve but there was a gas odor between the vent valve and the canister. It seemed stronger at the orange connection of the vent valve. After a while the solenoid noise started up so I guess it's normal and perhaps it depends on the tank pressure. The fact that the odor is between the valve and the canister may just be due to the gas fumes drifting down due to their weight. At this point I'm not sure what other tests to run unless I can somehow isolate the vent valve to confirm it is or isn't the culprit.
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Thanks. I'll definitely keep that in mind. I started the car and smelled around but couldn't locate anything exact. What did seem a bit odd was that one of the valves on the top of the canister seemed to by cycling about 5 times per second. I have no idea if that's normal or not but the car had only been running for about 20 seconds prior. I also got a whiff from one of the lines running along the top of the fender where it's clipped into place but it looked OK. I'm hesitant to just start unhooking vent lines and doing detailed inspections as things are more likely to break since the lines will have aged quite a bit.
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I don't drive the car that often at the moment but do not believe there to be a true leak anywhere as I think it would be more evident than only when stopping hard. A cursory inspection of the lines was made and they look OK. However when I do smell it under the wheel well it's difficult to locate the exact spot as the tire's pretty much in the way even when turned. I have noticed the smell as low as the bottom of the canister and as high as the valve. With the wheel off I can't locate any place that has an obvious evidence of leaking, which means it's probably only vapor that's getting out. I'll pull the wheel again and see if I can find anything else. What I really need is an electronic gas sniffer. UPDATE: After pulling the wheel and getting up close and personal it smells like it's coming from either the area of the valve (both connections move freely) of from the area of the canister. However the canister may just be because of trapped fumes located behind it. In both cases there is no trace evidence that anything is leaking.
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As mentioned, no active codes.. I do have a P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected that is shown as pending. I had just started the car so I'm not worried about it at the moment. I cleared the codes related to the AOS prior to doing the replacement and they have not returned. The cap seal does have some light cracking on one portion so I'll replace it when I order any other parts but there is zero odor coming from the cap area when it's in place based on sticking my nose down there - even when there was odor detected under the wheel well.
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One additional piece of information is that after doing some testing I did pick up some odor by the vent valve at the top of the fuel filler tube. When I removed the gas cap some gas wicked out via what looks like a very small vent hole. Any odor associated with that seepage would obviously be trapped by the cap but if the vent valve is bad then I guess that could explain it.