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@ revmax > the symptoms are as you describe. Harsh 5-4 shifts and an occasional harsh 3-2 while coasting to a stop. Symptoms occur when RPMs are low and engine is under high load, i.e. at the bottom of the specified gear range, like when exiting a corner, while progressivle getting heavier on the throttle in need for a downshift. NO codes are coming up after a scan. Dealer advises replacing the entire trans, as they are calling the issue as a "slipping trans" That's BS if you ask me. @darrinsmith > Looking forward to the DIY...
Thanks for the replies. According to their website, they offer a 2 year unlimited mileage warranty. I'm just a skeptic. Thanks for the thread gbratk.
I have an 04 CS with 112K and a failing valve body. Classic hard downshift from 5-4 under load and occassionally from 4-3 while coasting to a stop. It's been scanned and no codes came up, just slamming into gear. I sent a certified ford mech friend of mine on a search for a source for a valve body and he sent me a link to http://www.revmaxconverters.com I am wondering if anyone out there has any positive or negative feedback about this. $659 sounds pretty cheap, and my favorite saying is "you get what you pay for". I don't want to waste $$$ on this and paying to have it installed if it is junk. Thanks for any recommendations that you can pass along. Here is the direct link to the part: http://www.revmaxconverters.com/index.php/valve-bodies/updated-oem-replacements/09d-tr-60sn-488.html?
The dealership called and advised that the software is up to date and there are no fault codes in the trans. They also said that they aren't experiencing a harsh shift in the higher gears. They are calling it a slip and advised that we have the fluid changed. $523.30. And IF that doesn't stop the issue, a shiny new transmission is what they recommend. They are resisting all of my suggestions that it's the valve body, they say they have never experienced this problem before with any other cayennes. WTF? :cursing: I am headed over to take the technician for a drive to show him what i am experiencing
Ok...Ive read all of the posts on this forum and (have been a contributing member since day one of my Cayenne ownership), about the hard shifting from 5-4 and 4-5 with the cayenne S. Mine is an 04S with 94K bought from the dealer with 72K in October (yess I do a ton of driving, but why not do it in style?) Here is the issue: Hard downshifts after cruising in 5th or 6th gear at around 55 mph, when I coast down to say 35 mph and get back on the gas I get a hard clunk (just like everyone else with an 04) as if i just hit a cinder block in the road. my gut is saying trans valve body. Today I took to the only indy Porsche mechanic in my area (he only works on german autos his lot was filled with BMW's and Mercedes and came highly recommended) and he advised, after witnessing the same symptoms that I have described, that I take it to the dealership and have the Trans control unit and the DME software reprogramed, and then if the issues reoccur, to bring it back to him and then he will proceed with the valve body or full on trans replacement. ultimatley, here is my question. I have an appt with the dealership on thursday for the reprogram. Am I wasitng time and $ the the software reprogram, or should I just let the dealership diagnose and trust what they have to say? I am a good mechanic and have worked on everything under the sun except a Porsche and am wondering if the TVB is something that is reasonably do-able in the everyday man's garage
04 Cayenne S. Mine started doing the same thing last night. It's unlatching on it's own, causing the interior lights to come on. When I press the micro switch nothing happens until I push the glass closed, fully engaging the latch. Then it pops open on it's own and the latch cycles over and over and over again. I hope that it is an easy fix, not wanting to take to the dealer.
Time for a new battery, I just went through this recently. There are many posts on this topic too.
The reason that I joined this forum was because of a battery issue with my CS. $125 for a battery and $4 for the tool and an hour of my time was well worth it!!!!
So after buying a battery from our local foreign auto parts distributor and getting home, it turns out that it was the wrong one. Thanks to my commercial sales friend at Advanced Auto for the correct one. It tested at 3 cranking amps. On a side note, the blower seems to be working fine now, with no quirks!
Thank you all for the quick responses. This has encouraged me to become a contributing member. Stealership wanted $99 to test the battery. They said that it could be the alternator or the battery, but after driving nearly 1200 miles after the light started to come on, I am banking on the battery. Thanks again,
Thanks for the reply. I will look into replacing it soon. As far as the blower, and other replacement parts, do you know of a good source? I am new to Porsche. I own a Volvo as well and usually get parts from IPD.com. And yes the interior lights seem to cut off too soon after the key is removed.
2004 CS 84K. Bought the car 6 weeks ago. On thanksgiving day, prior to a long trip, the Battery light came on at start up and then went off. Each time I start the car, I have to bump the key twice to start. Battery light goes off and all is good. Volt gauge reads 14ish volts while running. Interior lights seem to cut off (when car isn't running) way too soon, and the blower motor is making weird noises and sometimes takes a minute or so after start up to begin working. Is it the battery, and if so which one? Under the seat or in the trunk?