wrljet

Mark, It's Delrin. A type of plastic similar to nylon. It doesn't sound to me like that's the source. And it's a snug fit in the hole with that O-ring. Given what I read about the 997, I suspect it's the same noise the factory decided to get rid of. <<< The air filter of the 3.8 litre engine differs from that of the 3.6 litre engine through an active on-demand resonance reservoir integrated in the upper part of the air filter. Undesired noises can be insulated by adjusting the volume of the reservoir according to engine speed, whereby sound in the passenger compartment is optimised. One of the goals in adjusting the passenger compartment sound has been to reduce background noise in the higher frequency range and to greater emphasise the sporty, load-related exhaust and intake noises between 300 and 600 Hz. Opening and closing the resonance reservoir produces an improvement in the intake noise of the 3.8 litre engine, particularly in combination with the specific intake system of the 3.8 litre engine. This reservoir is activated via a vacuum-controlled flap as a function of engine speed and using temperature compensation. The flap opens in the temperature range between 0 and 30 °C at between approx. 4,600 and 4,800 rpm and closes at between approx. 6,000 and 6,250 rpm. >>> You can see the flap in the pic, inside the hole we've been plugging up. Bill

I got carried away and machined up a plug on the lathe. I'm not entirely happy with the results. There is now a resonant high frequency noise that comes into the car are certain RPM. I read somewhere the latest 997 airboxes have a movable flap inside to fix that. Bill

I got mine for Christmas, from an Amazon.com seller. Worked very well. Bill

I grew up in Barclay Farm in Cherry Hill. Bill

Editorial: Dealer doesn't check the car our very well after doing work, do they.

I'll be damned. I made extra sure I put them on the right way around when I changed mine. Never noticed they were different sizes. If they were, wasn't much of a difference. ;-) Thanks. Bill

Thanks to all.

They might have swapped the two wires on the sensor. There's no keying to those connectors. The analog one for the gauge vs. the binary on/off switch for low pressure. Bill

Ahh, that sounds good enough. I just replaced that verdammten coolant tank on my 2002 and now need to think about getting one of these vacuum filler-uppers. Bill

On the left and right side walls of my engine compartment, I have two unfilled holes about 3/4" diameter. I happened to find a picture posted by OrientExpress, which I have attached here. His car has those holes used by some wiring. I put a yellow arrow on the pic. What's it for? Bill

Is it exactly the same as the tools listed in the shop manual, as in it includes a threaded adapter to go on the coolant tank? Bill

Problem: You need a 17mm open end crowfoot. But normal crowfeet aren't long enough and the head of the torque wrench doesn't clear the strut. Solution: I put a 17mm combination wrench on the hex of the stabilizer link, and fitted a 17mm driver (drain plug tool) into the box end of the combination wrench. Keep the wrench at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench and no correction factor is needed. I've attached two pictures to the msg. Bill

What tool do all y'all use to torque the rear sway bar link to the strut? A crowfoot of some sort? Normal Snap-On style crow foot wrenches aren't long enough to allow the torque wrench head to clear. Bill

And I find I have to remove it every time I change the oil or it pools on top of the plate making a mess. Bill

I sold my VW Corrado after Safelite (in Wash. DC/ MD area) replaced the windshield three times and it still leaked. Never leaked before they worked on it) For this reason, I'm driving my 996 around with a badly pitted windshield because I don't trust anyone to change it. Bill

Any update on your problem?

re: Backwards brake lights. Here's how that happens. None of this may apply to your problem, and I haven't looked at the wiring diagram yet... Taking the 911 out of the picture, assuming a fairly generic wiring setup for tail lights for a second... Often, rear running/parking light is a low wattage filament, and the brake light is a brighter wattage filament in the same bulb. They share a common ground. Typically in an older American car a #1157 lamp was used. Now assume a ground has gone bad over the years from corrosion. Light switch OFF. If you hit the brake, power comes from the brake light switch to the higher wattage filament. It has no ground, so goes through the parking light filament and then back-powers the entire rest of the parking light system. Generally the parking light system includes quite a few bulbs. Assume some of these still have their grounds. The back powered parking light system now powers all the remaining bulbs that have grounds. The combined parallel resistance of these will be low. Powered -through- that one original filament that had no ground, which is a higher resistance, not much current exists in each of the lamps. So they don't glow brightly. Perhaps not visible in daylight. BUT, combined in parallel their combined current is enough for the original brake light to show up. Thus a car with a bad ground on one tail light can still have that brake light function during the day. Now assume you turn on the parking lights. The reverse happens, and the brake light system is back-powered. But the resistance ratio between the low and high current/brightness bulbs is reversed. So the tail light works. Then you hit the brake pedal. Juice comes from brake light switch to the bulb filament, killing the fake ground path, so now there is +12 on both sides of the tail light bulb at the socket with the bad ground. The symptom now is all lights at that socket appear to go out. ---- Adding DRL to the picture, does turning on the key in a car with DRL normally cause the rear running lights to come on? Bill

Loren, thank you very much. Bill

Can anyone provide me with a scan of the pinout for the 997 airbag ECU from the wiring diagrams? Thanks, Bill

Leakdown tests are more useful than compression readings.

I'll have to give those a try. I'm been too cheap to try any of the ones on eBay thus far, worrying they'd be junk. One pin tool I needed, like right now, for the pins in the older DMEs. I found a drawing with dimensions on a German tool company website for the genuine article and then filed one out of a piece of drill rod. One of these days I'll lathe up a handle for it. Bill

I'm curious about your M030 springs (and mine). According to the shop manual and parts catalog, the top color line is supposed to be either green or white, and refers to the tolerance group for the spring. The proper thickness compensation plates are supposed to match the springs. Anybody know what's up with these other colors? (I'm talking about the top color line here, not the two lines at the bottom that describe the application) Thanks, Bill Different models, coupe, targa, cab have different springs because of the different weight of the cars. That's what the two color swipes at the bottom of the spring signify. I'm asking about the compensation group. Bill

I'm curious about your M030 springs (and mine). According to the shop manual and parts catalog, the top color line is supposed to be either green or white, and refers to the tolerance group for the spring. The proper thickness compensation plates are supposed to match the springs. Anybody know what's up with these other colors? (I'm talking about the top color line here, not the two lines at the bottom that describe the application) Thanks, Bill

Sure, that's how 914s work. 901 gearbox with the ring gear flipped.

Go to Intersport in tysons corner virginia. 703-242-8680. I get my car serviced there, and they are very trustworthy. They do quick and quality work. Ask for Charlie. Tell him Chuck Drake recommended him. Bill