9552T500

thanks for the note. I checked all, and none of them is leaking.

Having a problem with sudden massive oil loss on my 01 996 C2 (86k original miles) . Here some of the background. it is ca. 900miles since IMS/RMS replacement. Perfectly runing car, no codes, no leaks. Since I am new to 911, I was wondering about oil consuption - which was ca. 2 quarts (I thought my Cayenne CTTS consumes plenty of oil (>1Qt/1K is normal)) , but to my surprize, from discussions with local fellows with air cooled 911's , I can expect a quart / gas tank on a carrera engine ) . So I thought a quart / 450 miles (about two tanks) is not unusual. I also noticed no leaks under the car at any time. What I was concerned , however, was about the recommendation to use the M1 5W-40 diesel truck oil (Which I used since the IMS/RMS work). Reading through misc oil threads, I ended up w/o a clear direction (except to do it 5k or less intervals) , and decided to try what Porsche recommends - and this is 10W-40 for the climate I am in - with 50-60F. So, I swapped the M1 5W-40 dt oil after less than 1k miles for M1 10W40 high mileage oil. The dip stick showed max./ the dashboard gauge was in middle . The car ran perfectly fine for ca. 50 miles (a day commute to office). This afternoon I drove the car slowly for about 10 min (just to local store a few miles away) and once back home I parked the car curbside for about an hour. Then , while parking the car backwards on driveway , to my surprise I saw a major oil puddle of ca. 4 sft caught my attention just below where the engine was sittiong above the last hour. Double-checking driveway shows not the slightest signs that this could have started before I started the car today less than an hour ago. Backing up the car onto garage (engine does no unusueal sounds while doing so ) , and checking oil-level. The dashboard shows 2 bars above min (which is about one less since I filled up last). Dipstick, however, shows barely above min. Checking the floor, I see the oil dropping from rear cross bar. Jacked the car rear up and identified that all is perfectly dry around Trans Bell-housing (my first concern, but it confirms to me RMS/IMSB area is not guilty here). However, there was oil deposits on LHS Drive Shaft, car underbody above , and all in the plane in line with left cylinder head gasket . I wiped the head gsket area dry, but which shortly after leaked oil again @ lowest point of left cylinder head (engine off....). I am confident by now is that no mix of coolant in oil or vice versa. What I am puzzled about is that all seems to have started since I switched to the thicker Oil at lower temp two days ago. My question is whether the situation is more or less known / whether I can still diagnose / fix leak from "outside" , or do I need to drop the engine and start tearing the engine down?

Thanks for the 12 deg hint - which tells, that trouble is expected even by changing cam timing by less than the equivalent of a one tooth slip. I had the shafts locked but I still had no 100% confidence as the 21 T sprocket on IMS is not visually accessible while tensioners are released and shaft manipulated. Seeing is still believing, and if direct access is not given, then what-if-thinking is the most appropriate way to manage risk. However, all worked out after all. Have new LN eng IMSB & RMS now and the car runs as before this preventative work.

just curious - would the M96 engine engine run at all if the chain between IMS and one of the heads would jump by one tooth (~15-20 deg) ? I only see instructions "don't start engine if the cam tool does not line up". If doing otherwise - I am wondering whether a valve / piston collision is likely at the moment of the first start or whether there will be in first place performance issues noticeable...

Yes sticking out looks aweful to myself too. The main aestetic objective was to fix the side view for now (I like the factory turbo twist style much better than the thin spokes of the stock 02/03 C2's ), and ensuring basic functionality. If the basics would work, sticking out could be fixed (even though a big job, but I had a body widening done by welding on a different car (well - I only regret it was the wrong car sure as it was a volkswagen caddy....http://www.lxomega.com/ftplxomega/Share/1aj=&asiasana897-22aG8sjk/Cars/2004-06-12_batch-1/2004-06-12_VW_Caddy_Lowered_Widened_Mx-transporter.html), and the result was so rewarding to me....). However, i did not want to jump into these major changes right now (I have the car for 2 days...). I will possibly try to find some ET65's with the turbo twist for now. Thanks anyway for your quick advise.

Hi - I am trying to get Turbo twist wheels on my 02 Carrera C2 . The car has stock suspension and stock rears 285/30/18 with ET65. What I have got are 996.362.142.01 (CL seller said they are off turbo) with ET45 and 295/30/18 t tire. I have test fitted the rear now, and while the wheel fits and spins freely, the wheel protrudes about 20-25 mm axially beyond fender, and there is about 50mm vertical travel . Is this worth a try or a no-go (to high risk of collision with fender...)?

06 CTTS here. ... I had occassionally a light rattling a when accelerating quickly in the past. Did not pay attention since it was not easy to notice. A week ago I drove highway for ~30min, slowed down, and upon light re-acceleration, at 5-10 mph I felt a strong vibration noise under the center console (I had the arm on the rest). I looked under the car and saw the drive shaft support bearing rubber damper was completely gone (so it was banging against the tunnel walls since it is so close to the bearing housing). The design and function of this part looked too simple. For sure not worth to replace the entire drive shaft (~$1200 from my local dealership ), Now since the ball bearing itself was ok yet, I considered to try a very simple fix with what I had at hand (I really was in rush to be somewhere else very soon). Well, thick double-sided adhesive from 3M (under $10), applied in layers appeared to have comparable radial compliance and yet sufficient shear strength to stay in place upon light axial load. So, the whole fix took 30 min, and after I drove all day the way I like (not like wife who drives it most), and I felt neither banging under the console or other vibrations , and the 3M tape roll was still at the place I put it earlier that day..... A few pix of the fix can be found here: http://www.lxomega.com/ftplxomega/Share/1aj=&asiasana897-22aG8sjk/Cars/2013-08-17_batch-1/2013-08-17_batch-1_usa_garage_cayenneturbos_driveshaft_repair.html

Well - I meant overheating of the chamber with stock plug temp range as consequence of reduced heat transfer through the smaller temperature gradient due to faulty cooling system....

Hi - had the brake booster failure coming up on the cluster like out of the blue... Heard noisy vac pump and realized that vacuum line next to the RHS airbox was loose due to crack . Here some pix of the problem and temporay (wife is scared of dashboard alerts and just re-setting before the spare comes isn't nice ....) fix to share: 06_CayenneTurboS_troubleshooting_brake_booster_failure_fix . Hope this helps somebody. Good luck & Enjoy fixing the turbo pig !

OK- new plugs coils and install is completed on the left bank (now 09 coils). Still will need to finish the rhs bank, but so far it fires up sounds and turn smoother per first impression....

Thx - I've got he next code P0300 now, and misfiring again..... So, will check once more with swapped coils, but I possibly I will simply need to exclude the plugs ASAP and eventually coils in parallel. When you mention temperature range - do you think engine overheating ~ 1.5 k miles ago can have had impact on a plug failure now (coolant expansion chamber was cracked...)?

I am trying to figure a related issue with oily plugs and misfiring on my 06 Ctts. All started with occasional shaking w/o noticing any response issues or other alerts (wife's description who drives the car most). Myself got solid MIL upon starting the engine and after a few miles shaking and significant response loss. Felt like sth. out of balance. OBD-II showed P0307 and P0357 & started digging into spark issues on bank 2. Since this is my first time I do this with this car and I did explore things myself - here some docu- which may help sb. else going through similar issues first time: CayenneTurboS_troubleshooting_p0307_p0357_sparkplug_coil . My coils are rev 03 coils, but having no visual damage, so that I tried to circle the issue by swapping the oily plug #7 with # 6 (which color looked OK - see fig 17 linked). I tortured the car for 20 min, but failed reproducing cylinder failure. However the MIL remained on. I re-checked the plug color (Fig. 26), and both plugs started to look more alike with carbon starting to burn off/easy peal off residue on original #7. I reversed plug swap and got misfire right away. This has been double-checked, and turns out to be repeatable. I also tried to swap the coils, but this did not change anything to the better. My conclusion by now is that I may have too weak coil(s) to cope with pretty old plugs with plenty of residues /starting electrode burn-off. According to my records these plugs are almost 40k in the car, so they would be due for the 80k anyway. I will get them this week and hope that's it for this time. What puzzles me though is that a simple plug swap seem to fix the issue - at least temporary. I am also wondering how long I need to wait until MIL disappears or whether I have to reset manually. Any advice is appreciated. THX

Well thanks for the comment. I figured a way to get the Reservoir out and it indeed did leak from the seam at different locations. Received the parts and coolant within a day, and re-assembled the whole thing yesterday. The system is not leaking anymore, and the remaining task will be to find a place to get old coolant disposed before I can replace it. Overall I split the job over 2 vacation days, where-off most of the time I did spend analyzing function of components and how things are assembled and of course removing more parts then needed. Looking into these things is always interesting and entertaining to me since I normally analyze very complex systems on the nano-scale while getting hands off the computer keyboard and some physical workout hanging under the car for free. However, as a car non-expert I always wish to find more information on rather trivial looking steps, and since I could find nothing specific about the reservoir replacement , I compiled a picture documentation of how I did the 2006 CTTS coolant reservoir replacement job. Hope this might be useful for others too.

The coolant pipes of my 06 CTTS were replaced by P-service at 65K back in 2010 (had holes). Now, 10K later I am facing another cooling issue, which I just started investigating. All started with my desire to ride the truck in the sand dunes while traveling back from SoCal to NorCal (a sort of substitute for not having my MX bike with me on the family trip). Just before the sand part I checked and found all fluid levels ok. I had plenty of digging and drifting fun for a half an hour, and only noticed that for a short period of time the water went close to 220K and oil close to 250K, but going down as soon as I moved. Well, about a mile from that and another 30min break I checked coolant again, finding below min, and even though I added approx. 4Liters (all I had with me at that moment) the coolant level indicator came after a few 100 feet.... Bought more distilled water and ended up with a adding a total of approx 8 Liters to bring to level... I saw the car leaking on the right side, but the fewer, the cooler the engine got. Over 100miles I frequently checked and overall added about 0.5L more to stay on level. The temps remained stable and almost perfectly in the middle (off by less then needle wide). Back home I spent half day cleaning the car inside and out form sand, I started to dig for the remaining leak (250mL/day not moving the car). So far I did not find any visually broken lines, but most of the big mess appear around the reservoir (most solid residues of evaporating water, a water puddle in the shallow cavity right below the reservoir, and I can feel that rear part of the reservoir perimeter is wet along the join seam (upper/lower reservoir tank body) while all other parts are dry. This lets me hope that the reservoir is bad, but in turn I am a bit concerned about this to happen not even close to the red Temp mark, and that maybe there are more vulnerable parts involved . I definetly will double-check the rear motor further, but I am wondering how much i.e reservoir cap valve itself / thermostat failure can contribute to what happened to my car... Any advice would be appreciated….

OK...sorry-too simple if I knew a little more about plumbing (or would have thought about how I installed a reverse osmosis water filter in the kitchen a while ago...) The key is to compress the entire fitting to release the self-lock before you pull. THen it's very easy to remove.

Hi, thanks for this post which I got across while searching on an answer on how actually to remove the air hose from the passenger side air cleaner box after retracting the green ring... I did pull by hand, trying not to load too much sideways, but it does not want to come off. I am wondering what amount of hand force was required or whether you used and lever / fork to or other tooling to get it off . Does the actual stud has any groves/bumps where the connector clips in (just to get a better idea about the forces form the stud design point of view...)? Thx

Thanks for the hints. I went to search for M12x1.5x100 bolts and figured that they are widely used across German and even on American cars.... However, since nobody stocked them, so I finally opted for factory parts and meanwhile received a box with bolts and other bits today (Btw - the 06 bolt part # for the bolt superseded from to N 910 292 03 from the New Hitch parts list above to N 910 292 02). THis should suffice to complete the hitch swap and minor other service (tailgate strouts, brakes and oil change on the V6) hopefully just before X-mass yet....

Hi - I just upgraded to a '06 CTS last week I tried to swap the OEM trailer hitch from my '05 Cayenne V6. I figured that the 8 thread holes in the chassis are incompatible in diameter - The V6 features M14x1.5 and the CTS M12x1.5. I tried to find some hints on possible solutions here, but unfortunately mostly aftermarket hitches are being discussed, where compatibility issues seen not to exist.... :( I could imagine that the OEM hitch will need re-threading of the frame to meet the towing capacity specification.... Alternatively, I could imagine to forget about the max towing capacity for a moment (the max load is a motorcycle I am pulling to the race track), and simply to take long enough M12x1.5 bolts with sufficient Strength (higher then 8.8 stock). Any advice is highly apprechiated THX