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Everything posted by 9552T500

  1. Btw- the main difference i observed was the wing side hinge part , which connects to the actuator. the c4s part is the one i hold with the pliers in the image.
  2. see images attached. the 02 C4 spoiler lifting mechanism on the 04 c4s hood. To me this mechanically a perfect fit....and operates proper. Sure pn’ may be different for the assy , but likely for different reasons ( i could imagine the electrical connections but i believe this can be made compatible as well). However you seem to have decided to do metal work instead. give it a try and i an sure more folks here would love to see the result. For my c4 cab i also still want to change the rear . The strip is still has its appeal to me, but i badly want a big wing (993 rsr or gt2 type) and much wider hips now ( bolt on flares type ). Sounds possibly like a super bad idea, but it is actually an alternative manufacturing technology i am working on for a non-car project , but which may yield some significant shape improvements to my 996 as well.
  3. Good point. I still have this C4s hood assembly like you show (Got that time from wicked motorsports ) , and have not thought about trying this again after switching my car from a C2 coupe to a C4 cab. I can double-check dimensions of the lifting mech interfaces if this helps. Besides that, as loren said, a lot needs to be changed to make this conversion happen. I also considered to alter the hood , to fit the strip to NB ( cutting and some fiberglass re-processing of the upper edge facing the strip).
  4. Hi Fredn5(churchvb)- thank you for the guidance. Should help. Ordering it now, and it looks like one more of the many little projects the older the car gets. But also think it still deserves that attention :) Thanks again! ilja
  5. Hi, I am chasing causes for wife's complaint about water dropping on the right foot on the drivers side during cornering on the 06 Cayenne Turbo. I already cleaned out the AC drain on the passenger side, but the leak seemed to remain predominantly on the driver side. I took out the entire driver's carpet (was all wet), and dried for a day in the sun. For a few days I subsequently removed parts, and finally I can see that he water is likely released from the seam between a plastic housing and an aluminum body (some heat exchanger?). I circled this region yellow in the attached picture. My question is, what is this part, and whether there is a way to remove w/o having to deal with dash board removal - or alike. Thanks, ilja
  6. thanks for all recommendations ! The complete list with approved tires as well as knowing there are cheap alternatives too is very helpful. I will likely avoid the khumo’s ( i had the chance to test such when i got those along with a set of spare rims for my 911 , and found traction aweful ...). The p-zero’s seem a good alternative to me now. Bridgestones were installed on my CTTS prior i got it (the first owner had all work done at p-dealer, and i assumed they installed approved tire- and which the tsb seems to confirm). The main reason i wanted to stick to bridgestones is due to good traction, very good wear behavior and good price ( ~250 @tirerack before they stopped selling them in sept) ). however, thanks once more to all for your input!
  7. For my 06 cayenne turbo s, the p-recommended was so far the bridgestone dueller hp sport 275 40 r20 106y . However, it is discontinued by bridgestone , and it becomes increasingly difficult to find new old stock. if sb. here could share some experience with alternative tires for this car , this would be very helpful. thanks , ilja
  8. The RHS rear window regulator on my 02 C4 Cab broke last week too. Above posts were helpful to get this thing out and in quickly. My remaining problem was that I had that quick replacement for the broken regulator was not as simple as I thought (not much supply on intact used items, and rebuilds will take at least a few days back & forth). Short on patience, I analyzed the technical problem itself it turned out that the upper roll and rear string guide were compromised ((cracked in two pieces and missing at all resp.)). I ended up making a custom roller and guide from some old in-line skate-type rollers (yes, including one ball bearing) and another Polyamid block for the guide. The rest was some filing / cutting (I had a lathe to cut the string grove , but otherwise I used hand tools), and after about two hours later, I had the roll-arch-drive back to life assembled. The drive runs very good, and I think the bearing is a real upgrade to the drive, and possibly will outlast many other bits on the car. Since it was really no big deal to get this fixed much quicker that ordering anything- here a few pictures for those who may consider a DIY - fix of the drive parts as well. iH
  9. thanks sswong98. i think the starter issue is tackled by installing a new one. still waiting for pump and motor mount, and meanwhile working myself through replacement of misc vac lines now as long as the intake is off. Currently struggling with the T-piece to the intake vent (circled red below). Seems next to impossible to remove the whole piece w/o taking engine out.... Trying to cut out the press-fitments to the metal tubes & replace with alternative design tee. Pretty low pace at this moment ( 15m /day....)as wife started to like driving the 996 (i am worried about that a bit...), but i really want to get the 955 pig out of the way in the garage for more exciting garage projects....
  10. guess this noisy starter problem would go with brushless drives ... But likely this would never get mainstream or even cheap , when the ICE engine has no future anyway.... The rolling chassis was essential on the coffee table for easy move around during cleanup. Two rollers static, two steering wheels. could be hidden better, but i did not want to spend time to overengineer things....
  11. Thanks nerdtalker! The squeaking is a good point. i got this randomly , and somehow always attributed to either belt or water pump. good to know, that the starter swap can fix this too:). thanks also for the offer on your starter. I will think about. Fyi - The only use for a used starter coming to my mind is not for automotive use at all - My last engineering travesty involving starters was an electric bathroom flush ( attic-mounted tanks , actuated through starter solenoids from some car ( whatever i could get at auto store) , a timer circuits for dual flush functionality and all powered by battery and solar cells to charge.). ...The more stuff i have , the more likely the crazy use.... ( this is how the hull of the donor engine for my dyi 996 engine rebuild ended up as coffee table in the living room):)
  12. Thanks for the note - RFM. I know, and I gave up on a quick fix this afternoon after attempting to get sth. from two stores (Autozone / Napa; one rep did not even know what a graphite brush is...), I just ordered a rebuilt OE starter from Pelican, along more hardware, accessible w/ intake already off (vac/ water lines./ H2O pump, thermo/ belt. ...) since I have to wait a few days anyway, and the car needs this sooner of later (now @120k). The rush was mainly as wife needs a car during week. Currently only the 02C4 remains running, and which one she just does not feel too comfortable driving sheer by size and being a much rougher ride. I will enjoy the bike/train commute this week and hope no more car issues come up this week :)
  13. My 06 cayenne tts did suddenly refused to start during wife’s friday grocery tour ( ending up on fladbed back home). diagnostics indicated bad starter , and further digging this morning - gone two out of four graphite brushes. Pelican would have a proper replacement, but since this would take a few days i thought to put some other brushes in. Does anybody know whether there are any compatible replacement brush kits i could get from a local auto store? thanks ilja
  14. Hi Tony Z- thanks for the comment! Let me give you some input on your questions: I think it would be worth to get the workshop manual in German (Myself as a German would say the translation to eg. English is sometimes misleading/requiring to cross-check/study more context), but if it comes down to dimensional specs, torque, tightening sequences http://workshop-manuals.com was fully sufficient to me. It is a BT1800 cleaning system made by Omegasonics (18 Gallon / 1KW/ heated, variable frequency controller up to 40MHz )... https://omegasonics.com. Not produced anymore (got mine back in '08) , but the current model of comparable spec is BT1900. One of the best investments I ever made for my garage (originally acquired for my passion for collecting and restoring VMX motorcycles...). The M96 crank case was the very limit in terms size, and I had to flip it over to complete the cleaning. Sonic cleaning restored all parts and surfaces of lubrication channels pretty much to as close to original state as it can be. It is the level of cleanliness which, I think makes a big difference to success for such a project.
  15. Sure- i like the british way very much! As a german - i am possibly just generally more for boring facts and not too much up for endless chat :( . I do find though the concept “paying it forward” reflecting my personal attitude. I document all my projects anyway in depth for myself, and have the desire to share when a physical solution can be much simpler and cheaper and often much quicker then often discussed. i have also no doubt it was eventually discussed. it is just not easily searchable ( at least at a place where you would expect - like here on p-cars and dominantly diy-ers)
  16. thanks for the comment lewisweller. i think there is nothing wrong to answer a question after having it figuring oneself, when prior either keyword search on a forum did not show results, or couple of days pass wo any suggestion to some problem stated. Reading all posts seems super inefficient, but a search function , blocking typically after 1-2 queries suggests that this is desired here. However, vapor of a leaking engine as root cause makes totally sense - especially for a 120k engine. i will keep this in mind for the next more serious engine work down the road.
  17. problem solved and lesson learned. cabin filters can be as important as the respirators for the crew of eight under the hood, and might need as frequent attention:) Wonder why nobody came up with a suggestion, and searching by keywords for air condition smell does not yield any results. However, Just clening out makes a big difference. new one on the way....
  18. Hi - on my 06 CTTS, over the last few months I noticed occasionally awful smell inside the cabin while driving. My research so far indicates that it is emitted from vents when AC system is on. Believe it smells like sth. burned, and is not present when I switch AC system completely off. Did anybody experience this before on a 955 Cayenne, Turbo or Turbo S ? Thanks in advance. PS.: side note. It may be coincidence or completely unrelated, but as far as electrical problems I am noticing for about comparable amount of time that the horn is dead (silence when pressing the steering wheel center...).
  19. 2002 Porsche 911 M96 996 3.6 liter engine rebuild DIY I could not find a complete docu. for myself on the web when I started - so here I am sharing the documentation of my DIY rebuild of a M96 996 3.6L (3-chain) engine - form removal of the engine form car, teardown to the rods, assembly & putting back into car, and which runs fantastic now. Illustrations at hand of a few hundred images out of my photo-set which you can click to enlarge on the microsite as well. I hope I can encourage sb. to do this work on your own Author 9552T500 Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 10/07/2017 11:03 PM Updated 10/08/2017 04:29 PM
  20. Just posted a docu. on my completed 02 996 M96 3.6 l engine rebuild for a gorgeous C4 cab barn find, I bough back in August 17 as roller with complete engine (Head&Case failure). http://ow.ly/SjDf30fJkID It is not about performance upgrades or how it should be done. Is about the process to get it done with very details on the critical steps for the hands-on engineer. The car drives fantastic now, and if it breaks I will be confidently enough to spend the needed money and time to order on the new hard parts (Nickies, rods, heads, etc.... For now I did not spend anything other than on a high-mileage used 997.1 donor engine and a couple of 996 cases with paired pistons/rings from engines with other type of failures). I wish I had an alike docu. when I started - so I share it here, and hopefully it is useful for someone who wants to bring a M96 996 3-chain engine back to life .
  21. I could not find a complete docu. for myself on the web when I started - so here I am sharing the documentation of my DIY rebuild of a M96 996 3.6L (3-chain) engine - form removal of the engine form car, teardown to the rods, assembly & putting back into car, and which runs fantastic now. Illustrations at hand of a few hundred images out of my photo-set which you can click to enlarge on the microsite as well. I hope I can encourage sb. to do this work on your own too. It is absolutely doable (I have no automotive background , but I am scientist, mostly doing engineering in nanotechnology, and I am passioned about restoring old motorcycles and engines ), and if you love engines - you will enjoy this as I did (and bring the hated 996 back to life). Link to docu: http://ow.ly/SjDf30fJkID snapshoot of the image set the docu. picks from...
  22. Interesting. There are more threads on cracked valve seating ring issue.... Also an '02, and also Cyl 4 & liner crack as a consequence. My #4 piston rings are seized, and likely the additional radial pressure from piston/ring initiated the sleeve to crack . However, interestingly, there are no signs of a broken seating on the #1 cylinder , but I also see that there was some hard debris in the chamber (see picture of the damaged #1&#4 domes/pistons) , causing piston and head to be deformed - yet the rings are still ok, and piston would likely work again. The real question to me here is where the debris in Cyl # 1 could have originated ? Can a parts of the broken intake valve seat from #4 somehow be transported to #1 cylinder ?? How likely it is that the damage may have been primarily triggered by sth. other than just a valve seat quality issue for this model year??? So far I thoroughly sonic'ed and inspected 99% engine components w/o finding any obvious damage/emanating hard debris material. The crank cradle assembly is the last item In question here, but which I am hesitant to dismantle if the likely hood of the root cause there is low. All rods move smoothly and show no bends or other damage). I just wanted to clean the cradle from the oil/coolant mix and just re-use. Otherwise , it looks like, likely getting engine casing , one head and at least one piston replaced is what will likely get this baby running again. BTW- if sb. has a 3.6l casing in good used cond. for sale - please let me know. Thanks.
  23. Thanks Ahsai-makes total sense - especially after having found a schematic of the upper cross member.
  24. Thanks - the problem with bentley & co. is the lack of an instant pdf download somewhere - whether payed or free. It must be available when needed, as by the time the hardcopy would be in - an alternative solution to a problem is likely to be found.... Your safety tips are certainly always worth noting. This is - of course # 1 concern in these DIY endeavors, and what takes most of the extra time you need to finish the project. It is my 3rd engine drop out and the 2nd of a 911. Back to my bolt issue - thanks to an elver-fan in the EU, having posted a full copy of a service manual on the web (I will not re-distibute here, ; but since I always docu all details for myself, I will try to post my process when time permits) , I see the solution for my problem. The upper hole of the Cross Member (at least for Turbo/GT2 and it looks also any 4wd / and or automatic) is topologically not even a hole. It is a half-oval shaped grove at best, and where losen the bolt will just suffice to proceed with bar removal.
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