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US and Rest Of World suspensions are different. ROW Sport lowers the car about an inch all around, includes stiffer springs (they have a different color code). The kit has new Bilsteins and sway bars with bushings (not sure if the sway bars are larger in diameter). You'll get great handling and less transference of road bumps into your seat and back. I got my entire kit through Sonnen for $960. It made a huge difference in the way my '99 handled.
If your secondary air pump is not coming on at start up you can clear all the codes you want and replace and or clean up everything but it will not fix your problem and the codes will come back. Do yourself a favor and check to make certain that system is working. This is advice from someone who had those same codes and spent over $900 trying to fix the problem when all it was was a $0.25 hose that was disconnected in the secondary air system.
Does your secondary air compressor come on at start up? At the initial start up do you here a sound from the passenger side that sounds like a vacuum cleaner then goes off at about 30 seconds? Breaks in hoses, malfunctioning diaphragms, broken vacuum tanks in this system can all cause the codes you've published.
The schedule for my '99 Boxster Tip is 90K miles and I had it done at 86K. It made a noticeable difference in how the Tip shifts (much crisper) and downshifts. I watched the whole procedure and although I used to do most of my own mechanical work it is something I would never try. As has been mentioned you need the proper tools and computer to do it right because a new Tip is in the 8K range and you don't want to go there over a job that will cost you a couple of hundred dollars to have someone who knows what they are doing do it.
I bought my '99 almost four years ago with 74K miles and I'm still waking up every morning thinking about where I'm going to drive it. I knew nothing about Porsches and Boxsters when I bought it without a PPI. Once it hit 6K rpm, on the test drive, and I heard that flat six howl I've been smiling ever since.
I had 2001 S big reds installed all the way around on my '99 Boxster. What you have to do, or have done, is the rear wheel bearing carriers have to be replaced with the S wheel bearing carriers. You will also have to replace the emergency brake mechanism to the S. When you replace the wheel bearing carriers the ABS light will come on because your axle is smaller than the S axle and the sensor will not sense rotation accurately so you will have to make a bracket that allows the sensor to be further in the carrier or install S axles. It can get expensive but I looked around and found a wrecking yard that sold me all four calipers, drilled slotted rotors, new pads, the carriers, emergency brake and a bracket for the sensor and installed it all for $1500. I've had the brakes on for about two years and the difference has been incredible especially on the track. If you can do the work yourself you should be in that price range.
This is a real shot in the dark but I'm mentioning it because it happened to me. When I had my OEM brakes, on my '99 Boxster, upgraded to the Big Reds the rear axle knuckles had to be upgraded to 2001 S parts so the emergency brake mechanism worked and the calipers could be mounted. After the work was done the ABS light came on and after some head scratching the problem was the sensor that determines axle rotation was not reading properly. In my case it was because the sensor, in the new knuckles was calibrated to read the larger S axle and was too far away from the smaller axles of my non S. It was fixed by fabricating a new bracket for it so it sat further down in the knuckle. I only add this to give you a heads up that you may need to check the sensor to see if it is working properly. It is located on the passenger side axle.
mstimely if you're going to come on a forum and ask for help then please be respectful of all offers. Recommending you go to a qualified technician to diagnose a problem, you appear to be shooting in the dark at, is a bonafide recommendation and was meant as a courtesy to save you time, money and frustration. I'm neither spoiled nor rich but I do realize when it is time to let someone, who knows what they're doing, take over and don't let it get in the way of my enthusiasts ego. A lack of tools and a garage are also contributing factors. You in the end will do what you please but with your attitude you will run out of contributors one day.
So, as a follow up I had the top mechanism looked at today and the passenger side "B" pillar was indeed broken and the other one was on its way so I'm having both replaced, with some missing grommets, for $280 at my local shop. Looking at what is involved, in the 101 Boxster Projects book, I think that is a reasonable cost for parts and labor. My initial cost for the top was $329 plus $400 to install. Given the top, from GAAH is $959 and everyone else wanted $800 to install I'm still well below what it could have cost. Hopefully I won't have to replace transmissions as that will be pricey. I do still need the cable to hook up the defroster but I'm having a hard time forking out the $159 GAAH wants for it.
Maurice I had to drive around in a pretty heavy rain most of the day yesterday and no leaks and no water in the carpet behind the seats. I had my Boxster in for new plugs yesterday and after talking to the shop owner I've decided to leave the top up for several weeks then take it in to them and let them check out the mechanics to see if any damage was done. Thanks again for all your help I understand the top mechanism much more than before.
Thanks again Maurice that is a wealth of information. Fortunately (or unfortunately) we have entered our rainy season here so the new top will stay up for a while and earn its keep doing what it was intended. It will also give it time to stretch and for me to absorb all the material on Mike's PDF files.
Thanks for the reply Maurice I should have put the year down it's a '99 Boxster. What would cause a plastic ball cup to break and if I replace both of them is there an upgraded version or am I looking at the possibility of them breaking again unless I make other changes to the mechanism? Would installing the new (B?) transmissions solve the issue or do I also need to upgrade the motor? Thanks again.