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in case there is a little bit of stud sticking out,...you can take a nut and weld it onto the little bit. spary with liquid wrench, again spray and sit for a few days, then wrench it off. if you can get direct access to it like 1schoir layed out, you can then take an impact driver to it after you weld and soak. iv'e found the impact is better than using a wrench.. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3
I am in the middle of the RoW M030 Kit Install. I have a "dilema", do i reinstall my H&R Sport Springs (Part #29779, claim 1" drop from stock, but i think i had way more than that) or do i use the RoW M030 Springs that came with the kit? the H&R's have been on the car for probably 15 years and over 200k miles. The H&R front springs unloaded look to be about 1" taller and are quite a bit smooshier intially before they tighten up at about the unloaded hieght of the RoW Springs which barely smoosh at all (as smooshie as a 200lb guy can make them smoosh when standing on them) the car is now never tracked or autocrossed, but i prefer that type of ride and handling... stiff, tight and responsive. I appreciate any insight and recomendations, -Ked
So, taking the car apart and looking for problems, found this potential issue..... lower control arm bushing is squeaky, does not seem to be loose or in bad shape, didn't seem to squeak when driving, primary reason for fixing the suspension was the strusts were toast and we had some serious clunk and chunk coming from the front right when driving on any road rougher than a billiard table..... any thoughts? here is the video...
Hi Guys, my 97 box has got around 230,000 miiles on it and the suspension has decided to call it a day. It has the Tech Sport Package and H&R Springs. I'm going to be pulling it all apart and taking a deep look into what i need to replace on all four corners. I already know that the struts need replaced as well some serious clunk issues at the passenger front corner. If anybody has any tips, tricks, pitfalls, recommendations, modest upgrades, etc, they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Ked
on my car i added another cig lighter on the other dash wing ( the round plug was unused on my car), so now i have two plugs, good for radar and mobile phone charging at same time without having to get/drag around a 1 to 2 cigarette lighter adapter.
To help with the looks, I would suggest getting clear side marker lights, clear tail lights and a clear third brake light, maybe even the LED versions. This is an inexpensive and easy DIY. If you want to keep in line with Porsche quality and style, without having to go the full aerokit way, perhaps a simple conversion to a 996 series front bumper. IMO, part of the reason the aero kits look so good is not the kit at all, it's the deep offset wheels and a lowered stance that usually accompany the kits,. for someone who desires a more aggressive look, those two things alone help with what i feel are the "gently used bar of soap" looks of a stock boxster. Thank you for taking the heat and dishing it out for us too, even though i wouldn't mind doing some of the dishing... taking no, dishing yes.
thanks guys, i replaced the fuel pump and we are good to go. i think i have been dealing with a underperforming pump for some time as the car feels more spritely and smoother then before the major symptons presented. so in conclusion... i had codes P1124 and P1126 due to a lean mixture caused by a failing fuel pump. the pump did not fail outright, it slowly died. the volume test exposed the failing pump. the car had a "good" idle but sometimes hesitated and stumbled in acceleration, i could drive it for the first day if i was easy on the pedal, the condition did worsen rapidly over less than 50 miles over a few days to the point where idle was affected. i bought the VDO pump at BAP in Scottsdale for $245 and i replaced the sending unit rubber seal $10 i did not drain the tank completely, i left about half a tank, the issue with that is i had to wear a rubber glove to install the new pump which made holding it and the indexing of it on the lugs a little difficult, but it was easier than using my fluid transfer pump. i used the hammer and screw driver method for removing the retaining collar, i would have much preferred using the special tool if i could have found one localy. thanks again, i appreciate the help and insight.