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Have a look at the ground points: http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/702453-side-markers-fog-lights-and-passenger-side-headlight-does-not-work.html

Please help. Dont want to destroy my shifter knob again by doing something wrong. I read a lot of post on different places. Still not shure if to proceed this job with shifter in "D" or in "N". posts are confusing. What is the save way to do it? thank you

Thank you!

Because i had a clogged sunroof drain and water on the floor thats s possibility. Just dont know which wires exactly you sre talking about. Under the seat?

I am planning to change all the shifter assembly. Anybody did it? Something special i have to pay attention to? Anybody know if there is a adaption neccessary after that or this just drag and drop?! Thank you

Thank you guys for your advice. Very welcome. About the black rubber part with the magnets i was thinking to because it was mentionend in a Pelican DIY. But it looked ok so i move on with my search. I will get a new one. About wires under the front seat i didnt even think. Are we talking about the wires which passing the footwell inside this black plastic duct? Thank you

Would like to refresh this thread. i have a first genaration Cayenne S which stay for almost 2 years now without driving. I try to reactivate the car now. New battery and the car started. Some codes came up which i could clear. The problem i still have is the gear selector. When the position is P the display still is showing "put selector to park position" the key doesnt come out easy . I have to wiggle a bit. i disconnected the gear selector to check what is going on there. I couldnt find any broken parts. Magnets are still in place. so what it can be? what is found out, when i am taking away the circuit board and putting the selector in P it works. Dont show message on the display any the key is coming out with a click how it must be. what could be the problem?

I hope you can claim victory after this job

I stripped all wires arround the throttle body. The one which is going to the N75 valve had a defective insulation. The wires could eaven touch ich other. I seperated them and taped it new. But no difference in running

So guys, now i am on the point where i need your help please. My car is still running poor at accelaration. Specially at 2500 / 3000 rpm some kind of hesitation and stumbling. This never ending story started with a lot of oil on drivers side area down the air hose where the MAF is sitting. According to your advice: always go back to the work which was done and check i am ready to do this. Before i would like to ask, which components could cause the problem and which dont have anything to do with. I hope i dont forget to write down something what i touched. The air hose with the MAF was disconnected for cleaning. The hose going from turbo to intercooler was disconnected for draining the oil inside. The deverter valve was replaced. The MAF' s are new. Air Filters new. Spark plugs new. Coils new. Replacement of venturi tube. The tube is sitting tight on the connection on the intake manifold close to firewall and under the intake hose close to throttle body. Air hose passenger side which is going from turbo to MAF replaced. Found a vacuum hose close to the firewall which was disconnected. Put it together again. Should be a hose which has something to do with the Turbo because my Cayenne S dont have this tube. Changed the breather valve. Checked the PCV membrane (can this effect bad running) I spent a lot of time arround this problem. Not that difficult all this things but time consuming because i changed and swaped a lot to find out whats going on. What i can say: the time when i had out the MAFs for the new BOSCH the car was running very good. But just for some km. After the crap running came back. What i can say too: before i changed the DV i never hear the turbos kicking in. Now i can hear the typical turbo whistle when kicking in. What i can say : the boost on my gauge is running up to 0,8 very fast even when i push the pedal just a litte bit. To fast to high imo. So thats the story. Finaly The codes which i experience are always the same. P0234 turbo overboost condition P0441 EES incorrect purge flow SORRY FOR THE LONG STORY. My last try before i will give it to porsche for finding the cause

Found this air tube between Turbo and MAF has a small crack between the hard part and the flexible part. Need to replace. Hope this helps

So guys after working arround this engine for several weeks i am just one step more closer to the solution of my problem. i had a very bad engine running and changed a lot on top of the engine. Plugs, coils. Aftermarket MAF . Venturi tube. Again new BOSCH MAF just today. Jesus. spent a lot of time. But.... The engine is still not running like it has to. Better but not perfect. The stutter at low rpm during acceleration is much better. But not smooth like a V8 has to be. New MAF helped but there must be something else. I just had a test drive on the highway. Couldnt go that fast because of traffic. Gear 6 and 150 kmh / 2700 rpm. when i am pushing the pedal just a little little bit the boost pressure gauge is jumping up to 0.8. this i hadnt in the past. I feel a hesitation at 3000 / 3500 rpm. Dont even want to try a kick down. Who knows what will / can happen. As Mark told me once in onother thread: http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/906130-overboost-what-could-be.html and Lewis teached me there must be a big big leak somewhere close to the turbos. when i open the hood i feel a slight smell of exhaust gases. Does it point to something?! Any idea is welcome. thank you!!!

Sorry i should have checked more careful. One pic is from backside rest from front. Was confused about the white part seen on opossite direction. Except the hoses 6mm/ 4 mm which sizes of tubes i should buy for other culprit areas?

Great Great!!!! You should write a book. So many pipes. Confusing. Where can i find on YOUR PICTURES the litte valve which i have in my fingers on MY PICTURE?

I feel very sorry about your story. I go through similar problems with my first cayenne and now with the turbo. I can imagine what you feel. dont make me scary . I would like to have a trouble free time with this car. I just come back from garage. Again half weekend on the car

Now the new aftermarket MAF's are installed. Will see, maybe i will change again to see if there is a difference. Can i drive with MAF's disconnected? What can happen?

My cheers were to early. Now after some days the bad driving is back. I hope its just the small hose which is loose again. Otherwise i am lost and dont know what to look for next.

When cut of no warning light on the display? When my alternator was gone almost the same. Battery low because no charging. I saw the warning on the display. But when batterie almost dead and alternator not working. My car stopped driving after some hundred meters.

Congrats. Free electricity for the next years. I hope!!! I remember you give your ViN to be shure to get the right replacement part. how possible you got a part which needed to be modified to fit? if it happens to me i would be lost with this extra work. if there is time, please could you explain how you changed this upper control arms.

I can post a succesfull repair as you read i changed and tried a lot to find out why this car is running so bad. Yesterday again all plugs new, checked the coils which are almost new. Changed the new MAF for the old again because thinking there could be a problem. Replaced the venturi tube. All in all nothing did improve the bad bad running engine. looking arround all the small tubes and hoses i found suddenly a small hose which hang arround. Close to the intake manifold close to the firewall. Its wasnt connected. Slipped from a valve because i was split in the end. Connected and. Wow. The Turbo is back. From the very beginning a smoother idle and a almost flueless accelaration. Testdrive. Changed again for the new MAF. Testdrive. German Autobahn without speed limit. Wow. Looks like i found the 200 missing horsepower. The car runs very good. Fingers crossed!!! thanks to lewis which constantly pointed me to a vacuum leak. For me a new lesson. what difference a single small tube can make which is not connected.

Well done!!! Hope your hands dont have to much scratches because of this tight job

So how this story turned out? Could you solve the problem?

Here is a nice DIY lesson from pelican. please pay attention to figure 17. is it possible to mess up something with the trigger wheel when changing the gasket and if yes what could be the result? http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/40-ENGINE-Valve_Cover_Gasket_Replacement/40-ENGINE-Valve_Cover_Gasket_Replacement.htm

This is acctually a very good offer. I payed for a remanufatured from DELPHI arround 350 Euro and this was even very low comparing what Porsche is asking for

Onother question regarding coils. i have about 24 pieces at home. Some are used some are "new", lets say not used. what i a wondering , is a coil only faulty if its cracked or can be there other problems which are not visibel? some have a green label with the part number. Some have the part number engraved into the plastic and some dont have anything. Just some kind of code in front. See pics. How to know which version is this?!