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ciaka
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Everything posted by ciaka
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I would guess the springs are rubbing on frame attachments somewhere in the seat. Usually larger people will notice this (due to larger forces involved). I would check to make sure the seat is secured to floor as first step. Sometimes the leather rubs against itself in places where surfaces touch. Try to use leather conditioner and make sure to get those spaces where leather touches. That could be an area as well. Hope this helps.
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Allright, got it out. Will post a DIY so that you can see how to do this without having to pull the exhaust. To think about it, easy but still a PITA to do this. Of all things, mailman was supposed to bring the flex disc by noon, and it is still not here yet. Got pissed as this is the only thing stopping me from finishing this. Paid for overnight shipping and nada. They better refund the money. Will update after I am done. Thanks.
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So I am doing this work. Ordered a replacement shaft and flex disc. Managed to do the following: - Removed triple square bolts from rear of shaft - Removed the 3 bolts holding flex disc to shaft (bolts + nuts + washers) - Removed the 3 bolts holding flex disc to tranny (bolts + nuts + washers) - Loosened exhaust hangers at mid point of car (total 2, one on each side of car), plus two front hangers (the ones next to the cats on each pipe), plus loosened the hangers for muffler as well (not removed but all loosened). - Loosened the shaft off tranny and rear diff - shaft is now free and unattached My problem: I am having a very hard time removing the actual shaft so I can stick a replecement in there. Can someone give me a secret of what they did to remove the actual shaft? It seems not to be able to come out rear first (sliding back - the rear shaft too long and unless exhaust is off, I do not see that happening) It seems not to want to come out via pushing it to the front either. After removing the disk , there seems to be space to push the shaft forward, positioning the front part adjacent to the transfer case, but even if I push down on the exhaust, I seem not to be able to get enough clearance to move the front part of it past the cross member (tranny cross member), to spit it out. I assume I will have same difficulty with putting new one in. Any tricks, additional steps will be very apreciated. It has gotten dark (started late) and I will have to finish tomorrow. Thanks.
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Ordered my parts and going to do the job soon, but still getting split info on the flex disc. A shaft shop I spoke to said the disc is made of a very hard rubberized material with special mesh in it to prevent failures, and as a result almost never needs replacement. Just wanted to see what others say on this matter. I will be replacing mine regardless, just wanted to get more input on it for future use.
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Look for: - Lowest mileage you can get - Coolant pipes replace - Card an shaft fithnflex disc replace - Coils - Plugs - Clean (look in crevices since most cars will be cleaned for sale), so you have to look into places where it is hard to clean to see how car was taken care of. - Tires (newer the better - not cheap to replace) - Brakes (same as above - not cheap to replace) - Fave color scheme
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Lowered while driving
ciaka replied to ohboy's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
the lowest setting for the vehicle is called loading level. from what I understand that level it's not meant to be driven on. so when you are in this level and you crossed 15 miles per hour vehicle automatically goes up to the low level. once you are in the lower level the car it should not be going up or down automatically. when going fast about 120 miles per hour I believe (think exact number is 126 or so), if you are not in the lower level the car will automatically lower to it -
Lol...when I read it I did too think it was oddly named and some Italian enthusiast would raise up his hand to maybe correct. LOL! Just to be sure to stay on the good side of the Sopranos, it is called a "guibo" coupling or disc. I have replaced a number of those on my '71 BMW 2002. Regards, Maurice.
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Does anyone have answers to below question?
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Thanks. That is exactly why I was asking about the disc. I know the companies tell you many things you need, but it is often not clear reasons why. So I was hoping to get feedback from those who actually were in situations, and thanks for the input. I will make sure to have the disc changed too. Maybe can get a nice DIY write up from it too if I feel like it. Thanks again. I did not replace the fex disc the first time and had trouble with the replacement shaft - it eventually failed in about 6 months. I contacted vertex and they said I should have replaced the flex disc at the same as the shaft and i think the online warrenty statement said that at the time i had the failure (i don't remember that language in the warranty at the time i first bought the replacement shaft). Regardless of when the warranty language was changed (if it ever was changed) they honored their warranty and sent me a new replacement shaft and I bought a new flex disc to go with it. I did not want to do the job twice and would have bought the new flex disc at the time i bought the first shaft if they had advised me to do so. In any event, i installed the the new flex disc and replacement shaft and it has been great from the first mile. I would buy the replacement flex disc if I were you. Do it once and be done with it. THe flex disc is easy to change since you are right there. Good luck with the replacement. It really is a very easy job.
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Not afraid to do this on my own. Spending some time and making sure the job is done with proper care is more important to me than dropping car of at a shop and praying that they do not assign some wannabe apprentice to do the jo. I have worked on numerous cars and swapped multiple parts, except major engine or tranny work (major PITA and time consuming). So I will be doing this no problem, and will see if I feel to do a DIY for this specific repair to post. Why is the swap of the flex disc necessary? A place I inquired wrt shafts told me they have not seen a bad one yet from their 20 or so experience with the car. It is a thick (rubber?) disc and does not seem to be damaged (unless it gets damaged due to exposure to environment/heat and becomes brittle).
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is it better to get a new shaft or is a rebuilt one OK? They all seem to come with the flex disc, the shaft and joint support. There is a web site vertexauto.com which has rebuilt one for about 390 and a new one for about 530. all free shipping (3day). Is the VW way a cheaper way? How would the shafts compare? Thank you for your help in advance.
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OK. I went under the car. Crawled under it and pressed the shaft near the joint and support. I see play of at least an inch - when pressing up or sideways. What do you recommend now? - what is cheapest place to get shaft from? - any shafts that are more durable? - what will I need to replace - assume the shaft, the joint support and the flex disc? Can you confirm? - anything special about rplacement? Should be fine with raising suspension and turn the wrench? Thanks
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Planning to do that tonite. Yes, the CTT does have the Cardan Shaft and it has not been replaced yet. I was holding out on putting my views on these symptoms so that I do not taint people's opinions. Can anyone address the questions I posted above too? Thanks.
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Yesterday, driving home from work, I was at lights and turned right, accelerating very moderately. I felt vibration coming out of bottom of car, felt kind of under the center console, middle of car. Thought nothing of it. Later, driving to gym, accelerated and felt thuding noise from same area (acceleration was faster this time). Seems to do this every time I accelerate. Later yet, driving back, I tried and it seemed not to be doing that under similar acceleration, however, due to having to do an errand, drove again, and tried to duplicate. This time, it was doing it under lesser acceleration. Today, on the way to work, same, starts happening under smaller acceleration and i can feel it. Have a lot of questions, but will start with: what do you think it is? can the car be still driven in such condition if not accelerating harder? I am talking a week or two? what is the risk of getting stranded if not fixed immediately? Will ask other questions after responses, so that I do not taint the thread with my views. Thanks.
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After I replaced my battery, I had the steering angle sensor error and it did not go away after reset of faults via software. I turned the car on, backed out of driveway and started driving, which almost immediately corrected the error and it disappeared from the cluster. Again, I had this after batt. replace, but just in case someone looks, it may help others.
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Got it replaced yesterday. Got the Gold series Autozone battery in. Total cost OTD (after old batt turned in) was just around $150. Replacement was easy (there is a write up on here for this, making it very simple). After replaced, had some errors, used Durametric to clear. Then, some PSM and ABS errors still persisted. Took car for a drive, which immediately cleared the remaining errors from cluster and all is well, back to normal - aka, perfectly fine car. Thanks.
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Cayenne Turbo tires
ciaka replied to Nylon's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Looks like the right tire to be wearing in that part of the country. Due to me living down south, I did not venture this way for my car tires. So far I have great exerience with the Vredestein Sessanta tires. Sounds like a good choice for you though (I think Sessanta would not be optimal in your state - if yes, only for 3 months out of the year then). -
Batt is OEM and original since new.May be time for new one, that's what I kind of suspected.
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Went on vacation for a week and a half. After returning, the CTT was dead (engine did not want to turn over), but waited a bit, turned everything else off and it did start. Drive for a while and it seemed OK. About week later (today), tried start again and this time nothing. Won't turn over. Appears as discharged battery. My questions are: 1. Is the under seat batt, the main batt for starting (replacing)? 2. Where is other batt? 3. Would it be wiser to try trickle charge it before determine it is bad? Would need to buy charger first though. 4. What is a decent replacement batt, and from where, so I don't spend 300 bucks for it? Overall, looking for advice on plan of action on this (to me appears replace it, butt wanted second opinion from you fine folks). Thanks.
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i looked at same tires in 20" size too (was investigating changing rims to other sizes). For 20", the tire is still more expensive. About 25-30 bucks per tire. Looked at other tire vendors too and they all seemed to be more expensive the larger tire you get....mind you, these are Y rated tires for comparison to others. My biggest question will be answered as I go, with how much mileage i get out of them. Hope it is not something silly like 10Kmi.
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I did the front diff and rear diff fluid change. Also, just added the Transfer Case fluid change DIY as well.Posted DIY for Cayenne if you are interested - Front Diff. DIY, Rear Diff. DIY, Transfer Case Fluid change DIY.Hope this helps others, especially the new to Cayenne people.Thanks.
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It has been several hundred miles and I can report that I am very happy with the purchase. Grip is unbelievable on this tire, in dry and in wet. Quiet ride. WOW. Very happy, indeed. I will try to track how many miles I get out of these. I have seen many diverging stories on this. I consider myself a 'in the middle' type of driver (sometimes like to take turns fast, sometimes on the mellow side). If you are looking for replacement, my recommendation is to look at these. Total price for all 4 (275/45 19) was: Tires: $1028 (shipping was free, no tax) Install/balance: $160 TOT: $1188 This included lifetime balance and rotation, as well as flat fix. These tires have a clearly marked side to be installed on the inside. The label is 'inside'. No way to miss it. The side groove around the circumference of tire goes closest to inside of car on each wheel.
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fancy turbo cayenne
ciaka replied to ahamay's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Holy crap...one could make a chapter book with all these codes. I will have you in my prayers. -
Cayenne Front Differential Fluid Change
ciaka posted a topic in DIY Articles - Cayenne - Maintenance
Cayenne Front Differential Fluid Change I was able to get some time to put this tutorial together. All together with pictures and slow work, it took me about 1 hour to do. You will need approx 1 Quart of fluid to replace what comes out of the car. People new to the car should expect a bit more time to complete (get used to where things are, etc). Good luck, and again, hope this helps out others. This tutorial also contains info on how to remove the plastic covers under the car (for oil changes, diff fluid changes, transfer c Author ciaka Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Maintenance Submitted 11/09/2012 10:46 AM Updated 09/30/2016 02:29 PM -
Cayenne Front Differential Fluid Change
ciaka posted a tutorial in Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Maintenance
I was able to get some time to put this tutorial together. All together with pictures and slow work, it took me about 1 hour to do. You will need approx 1 Quart of fluid to replace what comes out of the car. People new to the car should expect a bit more time to complete (get used to where things are, etc). Good luck, and again, hope this helps out others. This tutorial also contains info on how to remove the plastic covers under the car (for oil changes, diff fluid changes, transfer case changes, etc). Each pic is a step of the process. Each pic contains description of what to do. Follow steps (pics) in sequence. Pics named 00x show preparation steps such as tools, other stuff to do when getting ready to do this DIY. Take care.
