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I almost didn't do this myself, but when the local VW dealer balked at the job and upped it from 0.5 hours to 1 hour ($120) that changed my mind and I got my body shop guy to let me use some floor space (and his air compressor as it turns out) for a couple of hours. I say a couple of hours, but it took 60 minute even from the time I pulled it into the shop until all was put back together. 15-20 of that as spent trying to figure out why the fuel extractor wasn't working (it's not a pump like I thought, it needed an air compressor). There was also some chatting and taking pics, so really I think (especially after you've done it once) 30 minutes is doable. I only did the "WM 2034EN Draining water from fuel filter" process as I'm at 10k, but the only difference with the 20k service is that you discard the filter and install a new one. This is an exceptionally easy job. The only "difficult" part is cleaning up the diesel that gets on you and the tools. Parts: None if you are just draining. New filter element if you are changing. Tools: Apporpriate rachet Torque Wrench capable of 5lbs. 4-6" extention for rachet T20 driver bit for ratchet 4+ good rags Nitril gloves Fuel extractor 2 hose clamps Small thin bladed tool or flat head screwdriver for prying. Notes: The official fuel extractor is available from VAG dealers (special order) and is referenced as "diesel extractor VAS 5226". When I checked my local VW dealer over the summer they wanted $90. I got mine for $60 from a non-public source. The VAS 5226 needs an air compressor connected to it's handle (no directions included or specified in PIWIS). Any extractor that will hold at least 100ml and get to the bottom of the filter case (it would have to be pretty big not to get down there) should do fine. Except for dealing with the engine cover, all items referenced are on the (facing) left side of the engine bay. PIWIS calls for "commercially available assembly pliers" with a part number/description of "Nr.72 Pos.1". I did try to source them and found the MFG but either they were ridiculously expensive or I couldn't source them. As shown in the pics I used a couple small vise grips. Steps labeled with "From PIWIS" are exact copies of the text. When I say have your rags in place, I mean it. Steps: Open the hood. Pull the engine cover off. Make sure you get all four of the rubber gromets back. Remove the panel at the top of the trim panel (next to firewall). It folds up and towards the fender and then will pull away. Remove the expansion rivets from the front panel (not shown) and remove the panel. The PIWIS instructions also have your remove the front trim panel (find and remove the rivets) as well, but I was able to get the left panel out and back in without messing with the front panel. Remove the 3 expansion rivets on the left trim panel and remove the panel. Two at the bottom and 1 at the top (see pics 1 and 2). Pry up the center "rectangle" part and when you pull it out enough the whole rivet will pull out without much force. Use the hose clamps to pinch off the two supply lines. Facing the filter housing from the bumper the supply lines are the "bottom" and "top right". Stuff/Wrap rags (I used two) around the body of the filter housing under the cap. When you pull the cap off, fuel will come out. Not only does it smell horrible, but PIWIS specifically warns against getting it on coolant hoses. Use your ratchet and the T20 driver to remove the 5 screws on the top of the housing. Make sure your rags are in place. Gently pull the cover off the housing. Mine had a good seal and I had to use a small screw driver to pry between the housing and cover. As soon as the seal popped, fuel bubbled out (hope you had your rags in place!!!) and the cover lifts free. Move the cover out of the way. As shown in the pics I moved it to the side and put it on a rag. Lift out the fuel filter. This thing holds a lot of fuel so be prepared to hold it there for a bit. Discard the filter if you are changing it or set it aside (where it won't get dirty) if you are only draining water. Insert the hose of the extractor to the bottom of the housing and extract at least 100ml (according to PIWIS) of fuel. Reinsert the fuel filter (or the new one). Put the cover back on the housing and finger tighten the screws. Torque the screws to 5 foot pounds. Remove the hose clamps. Remove the rags wrapped around the housing and cleanup any spilled fuel. From PIWIS: Allow the engine to run at idle speed for a few minutes without pressing the accelerator and then switch the engine off again. From PIWIS: The fuel system is bled automatically. Check the fuel system for leaks. Close the hood. From PIWIS: perform a test drive with at least one full-throttle acceleration and check the high-pressure area for leaks again. Open the hood. Check again for leaks. Reinstall the left trim panel. Reinstall the front trim panel if you removed it. Reinstall the upper cover. Reinstall the engine cover. Close the hood. Pics: The expansion rivet: The rivet points (yellow arrows) for the left panel: The filter housing. Red arrows indicate the screws. Green arrows are the supply lines. Blue arrow is the return line. My vise grips are already crimping the lines here. The line/tube that covers the left most screw just lifts out of place off the coolant tank (and I now realize I forgot to put it back in place...). The cover off to the side. The blue is the top of the filter. The filter: The drained fuel in the extractor. No sign of water.

There is a lot of useful information out there about changing the diesel's oil yourself, but it's kind of spread out a bit and there is a lack of pics. So now that mine is done, here is my attempt to put it all in one place. Parts: 8 liters of C30 or VW 507.00 oil Oil filter w/O-Ring (95810722220) Drain plug crush washer (N-013-815-7) Tools: Ratchet Torque Wrench 32mm socket 10mm socket 6mm allan driver Extension bar for the ratchet Plenty of rags O-Ring pick (I just used a very small flat head) Notes: The crush washer is available from VW dealers (in case one is more local and you forgot to order one with your filter). I used Castrol oil from a VW dealer meeting the VW 507.00 spec. I used 5w30 oil because that is what the manual states. Two Porsche dealers have told me that they use 5w40 instead. I used the drain plug for the oil change, but according to my dealer the recommendation from Porsche is to use an extractor. I'm not stating or clearly showing where I put my jack stands as I don't know if I used a proper place or not. Obviously I survived, but that doesn't mean it's correct. Steps: Open the hood. Pull the engine cover off. Make sure you get all four of the rubber gromets back. Jack up the front of the vehicle. The jack points are right behind the front wheels. Remove the under carriage trays with the 10mm socket. Get your oil pan ready and remove the drain plug with the 6mm allan driver. If you've taken just the rear tray off there are two plugs visible, there is a 3rd if you pull the front tray too. Only one takes a 6mm allan. If you are having to use something other than a 6mm allan then you are trying to open the wrong plug. Loosen the cap for the oil filter with the 32mm socket. Unscrew it enough so the o-ring is visible. I pulled the plug from the dipstick tube, but I'm not sure this is required. Open the oil fill cap. Again not sure it's required, but the procedure my dad taught me as a kid was to open all that stuff. Let it drain (I let it go for about half an hour or so). Clean off the drain plug and your tools while you wait. Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug. Mine was stuck pretty good and I had to find some pliers. Wipe off the bottom of the oil pan and replace the drain plug. According to the "WM 1001IN Tightening torques for engine" document the torque value should be 30nm. Wipe any new drips off. Reinstall the under tray(s). Drop the car back onto the ground. To remove the oil filter from the cover, pull on it while twisting the cap. There are some slots and tabs that seem to need to line up. Wipe the cap clean. Remove the old o-ring from the oil filter cover and replace with the new one. Fit the new filter into the container. The nipple fits into a hole on the right side (it was a little difficult to see due to some old oil still in there). Screw the oil filter cap on and then torque to 35nm. Fill it back up. Put the plug back in the dipstick tube. Snap the cover back on. Reset your change interval. I used a Durametric. Warm up the engine, find a level place, and check the oil level. Notes: Technically you only need to remove the rear under tray. I removed both to make sure I wouldn't end up with a royal mess. I think it would have been fine, but I'll continue removing both for future changes. I put 7.5 liters back in and after the car warmed up (my kingdom for a real dipstick!) and it tells me I am bang on the max fill. It's more than I wanted in there, but it works. Next time I'll do 7.25 and then add as needed. If you follow my recommendations about opening the oil filter, it won't make a mess (looking at you BMW!!!). All it all it was pretty straight forward. Pics: All ready to get started: Looking from front to rear with both trays off. The silver colored bar in the middle of the picture sits right under the oil pan. Oil drain plug views: On a lift with only the rear tray off. Red arrow points to the plug. Close up while on the lift: View from my back with both trays off: Engine bay with the cover off. Purple circles = mounting nipples for the cover. Blue circle = Dipstick tube Red arrow = Points to the oil filter Green arrow = Points to the filler neck

Options and opinions about installing the V1 itself have been discussed elsewhere so all I will say there is that I opted to use a fuse tap and ran it from the right side fuse box (I used the right headlight fuse (17 IIRC)). The main problem I had with installing the display was where to put it as it seems like every square inch of the dash is covered in buttons or something you need to see. After poking around and looking I found that the "non-smokers pocket" in front of the gear selector appeared to be a perfect location. The pocket is larger at the top than the bottom. Sizing it up I found that with holes cut on the front and back the display could slide in and be supported by the remaining pocket material as the wider part at the top matched the depth of the display nearly perfectly. I did have to grind away part of the display's case for the best fit though. I also trimmed a hole out on the side for the cable to plug in: Ultimately I had to extend the cable hole downward as well as add a hole on the front (first picture) that allows the cable to run in, runs back out the side, and then plugs it. It also gives somewhere for the excess cable to go. The next problem I ran into was getting the console apart. In a thread about changing out the trim pieces some one gave me the tricks to get the gear selector off (need to twist the ring at the bottom of the knob to unlock it and then pull the locking button outward (towards the PCM)) and center vents off. What wasn't included in those directions was that the PCM needed to come out as well and the LED that lights up the pocket (though mine never has...) is annoying (more later). The trick to the vents (also the side vents too) is that there are little tabs you can see inside when you move the slats around. Those need to be pried inwards (towards the center of the vent) to make it easier to pop the vent out. Where I ran into issues was that I initially could only see the two next to the PCM (pulling a side vent was much easier and let me get a better idea of what I was dealing with). There is also a fifth one at the top which I never could see the tab for while it was installed. Additionally there is a cable plugged into the bottom of the vents (it just pulls right off). The method that worked best for me was a small steel bar (an awl should do) I had to pry the tabs with. I started with the bottom (since I could get my fingers under the bottom of the vent to pull) and worked around while pulling. Here are some pictures (right center vent) with the tabs circled which will hopefully make it clearer: After that the PCM had to be removed so that the rear of the trim could be lifted out. I managed to do without disconnecting the PCM itself, but it was challenging due to how the routed the wire for the pocket LED in a way that gives almost no slack. I had to use a pick to de-route that wire which gave me just enough slack to get the trim over the selector post. Here is the center console with the trim removed. The red circle is the annoyingly routed LED. The green circle is a hole that was already there that I routed the display's cable through. The extra hole I mentioned cutting into the pocket matches up with this hole. Routing the cable out of the center console was a bit challenging as there is no space at all in there. When I ended up doing was lifting the rest of the center console. To do this you need to unbolt it (two torx screws under the pocket) and just pull up on the leather bolsters forward of the grab handles. This let me run the cable towards the rear of the car, around a bit, and then forward again along the outside of the console (for reference the left side of the pic is the gear selector unit): And here is how the cable comes out of the center console at the dash: There is actually a lot of empty space behind the trim piece above the glove box, so that's where I chose to run it. I suggest that unlike me you wait to reinstall the vent until after the trim is back on . You can get it back on, but it would be easier otherwise. On my cheap basic trim there is a trough behind the sliver bit at the top that was a perfect fit for the cable to run in: And finally here it is put back together and working: Since I couldn't find anything about installing the remote display in a 958 I hope this helps/inspires others.