R Clark Stewart

Without hesitation, Mobil 1 HIGH MILES. Its' blended thick, with the 10w-30 meeting the ACEA A3 spec, which all Euro mfg specs are based on. Usually it takes a 40 weight to meet this, This oil should be fine down into the teens F. Low volatility, so it won't burn off. Super high additive levels, more like a race oil. You'll see it conforms to the older API SL spec, which allows higher additive levels. Guys who like thick oil, there is a 10w-40....which is PLENTY thick for track use. High miles oils with esters to soothe old seals is the best feature to shoot for. Myself, I use thin oils. Also, I don't bother with synthetics either. I've used Mobil Clean High Miles a few times, a mix of 5w-30 and 10w-40. MaxLife or any other Hi-Miles dino oil is fine, unless you have a turbo. Quaker State is actually quite a sleeper oil, with tons of moly. Kendall now used a titanium additive, so does Castrol in the Edge line. There really isn't any way to go wrong unless you use thick oil in winter or thin oil in summer, or simply use it for too long. Most of my cars, I do 2x a year, and tweek the visc. Honestly, tracking a car, it's unpossible to improve on $2 15w-40 HD diesel oil. Rotella 10w-30 HD is also available now at WalMart, as a semi-synth that's blended thick. Heck, I love lube tech and look to tweek my choices, but super-high-tech oil is just not needed in 99% of engine/driver scenarios. Pennzoil, QS, Havoline 10w-40 is ALL a flat 6 will ever need, until it gets below freezing. My confession is that last winter I put in a mix of all different leftover oils, since I drive it a few times in the cold....I still have it in and do not plan on changing it, at all...until late Fall. It would be a pointless waste. I would likely go with QS "Defy" hi miles oil, as QS is really an impressive SOPUS product. Could I use M1 HM, sure....SHOULD I..? It just doesn't matter. Looking over the newest and best product, sure, the Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra with Gas-to-Liquid base oil is an amazing product, but only comes in light 30 and 20 weights. I;d just assume use the other Shell oil I mentioned, the Rotella 10w-30. If you want to hunt down the Kendall Titanium (Conoco) in 10w-40, great...that may be the best product for the flat 6. iirc, AutoZone carries it. FORGET Euro boutique oils, they offer nothing special. Surprise, good ol USA has the best oils at the best price. Mobil 1 High Miles, MaxLife Synthetic (a thick 30 as well), German Syntec 0w-30, Kendall Ti 10w-40...there you go. Otherwise, name-brand dino is all ya need. -Audi Junkie http://www.pqiamerica.com/ http://origin-qps.onstreammedia.com/origin/lubrizol/Markets/EngineOilAdditives/100132RPtool2012Deploy/rp/pc/index.html

Agreed.

Def do it and def do it early, 30-50k, no later than 60k. I recommend MaxLife ATF. Most others will work fine as well, Mobil 1 now claims the ZF spec too...

I just polished my 2002 headlamps w/a cheap TWax kit. The top 1/4 gets crazed and holds dirt in. The body of the lens has what look like chips, but polish won't do a thing. I have no before pic, but a haze of tar came away when the rough crazing on top was polished. Yeah, I did a lil DIY cheapo mod to the amber too.

If you switch to a metal impeller, you need to switch to a hybrid silicated coolant too...later Porsche coolant aka VW G-12++, BMW (iirc) MB/Zerex... Only silicates can react quickly enough to recoat the hard parts from pump cavitation. Google the MOTOR Magazine article, Coolant Confusion. Early Porsche coolant is just Dexcool.... It wasn't worth arguing with my mechanic over, but it is, for sure G-12/Dexcool/Dexclone Organic Acid Tech coolant. Peak Global is a trustworthy replacement.

Ok, LOS is just thick greasy slop in a $12 quart jug. If you want or need a thick motor oil, buy a full-formulated product, not "additives" (of which there are none in LOS anyway). As far as gear oil, Mobil 1 75w-90 is excellent for the rear diff, any GL-5 will work fine. If you want Manual Trans Fluid, I believe a 75w-90 is too thick, especially in cold, therefore a 70 or 75w-80 or 85, like for an Asian trans, is a better choice. Don't use GL-5 in a man trans, it has too much friction modifiers added, which screw the syncro material, like in a motorcycle wet clutch. It has nothing to do with the brass parts. Current VAG MTF fluids are extremely thin, thinner than ATF! Here are a few fluids compared under cold temps...90 weight is quite stiff in cold. Syncromesh is the best MT fluid out there, cheap too...

Mine's done. Thanks for the tips.

I use Woodlawn BOSCH for my Boxster work. They are by far the most capable shop in the area.

Wet immobilizer/PL controler?

If this piece isn't installed properly, breaks or is ill-repaired, it will let water into the floor, and kill the immobiliser unit. Ask me how I know. If I had to repair one, I'd maybe start with some sort of metal or plastic J-Channel either for roof flashing interior trim. Maybe you could split some poly or clear tubing and add it UNDER the existing channel to support it and catch any leaks. Marine goo should be fine. I have some gutter sealant here that would work awesome.

I just got a 2002 42k and inspected the filter finding little amber pieces too. I believe it's simply wear off the chain guides. Without finding anything bigger than a grain of sand, I figure nbd, I scanned my media w/a good magnet, only finding the tinyest metallic bits, maybe only 2-3 in the whole filter, that looked well-used. Inspecting the media is the best way to tell if there is a serious IMS issue, aside from an oil analysis with a PQI. Mobil 1 High Miles is a fantastic product. However, changing oil more often with dino oil does have merit.

Shell bought the SL50 brand name and pawned it off on Quaker State, who thankfully doesn't put PTFE resin in their formula. It's likely a harmless additive booster at best....maybe some seal conditioner. Definitely falls into the "feel good" category. Folks, there simply isn't an additive that lube engineers ~forgot~ or were too cheap to include. The add pack is a system, where all the constituents need to be in balanced proportions, don't think you can "improve it". Check out the additive supplier's sites, like Lubrizol... http://www.lubrizol.com/EngineOilAdditives/default.html http://sas-origin.onstreammedia.com/origin/lubrizol/EOACEA2009/RPTOOL2010Dep/rp/pc/index.html Best to just use a HiMiles oil, 10w-40 unless you see below zero F or do mostly short trip driving. If you want something modern and high tech, try the Conoco oils with Titanium, like Kendall. The Ti gets worked into the engine metal parts, it's no joke. http://www.conocophi...Ti) TDS Web.pdf

I had to buy a new unit. They used to be $800+. but now are 1/2 of that. Mech said it got wet, and had a blown fuse, maybe internal...? idk, they are a pita.

Mine needed a new immobilizer box. It had gotten wet. Similar symptoms.

I was thinking custom dual muffler catback into a single outlet for my Boxster. Either Borla or Magnaflow. http://www.summitrac...arts/MPE-11236/ The offset/offset gives you extra room fore and aft for your 45' bends. You can even adjust the in/out height this way.