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devin_wala

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About devin_wala

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Payson, Arizona
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 Carrera 2 Cabriolet
    1999 BMW 328i
    2000 BMW 323Ci Cabriolet
    2012 BMW X5 xDrive35i

Recent Profile Visitors

539 profile views
  1. On mine the piece that you have circled and mechanism below it was broken. The motor was good condition but the unit functions much the same as a window regulator and some small plastic piece had broken off. You will want to verify the unit is getting electricity or physically see that the unit is broken before getting a replacement. If you look in the manual or search online for the procedure for emergency top operation it tells you how to lower the side flap manually (don't go through the whole procedure). Once the side flap has been lowered you can likely raise your roof electronically to give you access (if needed, don't remember) to remove the flap mechanism. I replaced my unit with a used one off of Ebay. The cloth covering can be swapped out with the one from the old unit so you do not need to get one of a matching color.
  2. Make sure the cloth from the roof is folding nicely. I had this problem and it turned out to be a plastic roof stop at the rear of the roof compartment that was not being raised when the roof was lowered. The stop prevents the fabric from overrunning the back end of the roof compartment. As a result the roof material sat on top of the stop instead of being stopped by it. This caused the bunched fabric to fully cover the rear catch or sit too tall and prevent the clamshell from closing far enough for the final engagement hooks to reach. In my case it turned out to just be a couple of broken plastic clips holding the stop mechanisim in place. Hope yours turns out as simple
  3. Is there any chance that the previous owner updated the rear wing brake light? When I changed mine over to LED (before I added a load resistor) the PSM/ABS light would come on anytime my wing was raised (ie: highway speeds)
  4. :thumbup: Awesome! This has been one of my favorite threads to follow. Would love to hear it once any obvious gremlins have been dispatched!!!
  5. Did you drop and clean the sump pan before the plug was installed? If not, that magnet looks about as clean as I would hope for.
  6. Try moving the tool that you used to move the headlight into the "out" position back a bit towards the "in" position and then try to gently pull the headlight out.
  7. I repaired mine after someone else attempted to "repair" it before I owned the car. According to a thread elsewhere on the internet regulatorusa.com will supposedly rebuild them (I have zero experience with them). After fixing my own I would suggest replacing yours with a new or a low mileage used regulator instead. They are such a pain to get in and out I wouldn't want to have to do the job again anytime soon.
  8. There is a guy in Brooklyn who used to rebuild these. His website is no longer up and I cannot attest to the quality of his work. The phone number at last listing was 718-851-0100. I agree with the previous posters though (+1 Sunset). These regulators are such a PIA to access for repair that it's best to put in new if you can afford it.
  9. I replaced my clutch/IMS/AOS two years ago at 100K miles. '00 996 C2 original clutch (I believe). 1) My slave cylinder showed no signs of leaking at this mileage. After verifying that the fluid you are seeing is not coming from another source I would replace the slave cylinder. 2) I didn't replace my flywheel and now I'm sorry. My flywheel is now likely to be the next point of failure and will likely to take the clutch disk with it as it goes. If you are going through the trouble of dropping the transmission it's nice to have the piece of mind to know that you wont be doing the job again for a while. Then again if you are only going to keep the car another year or two you might get away with it.
  10. I also have a 2000 Cab. I didn't know that the key could raise or lower the roof. Super pleased to learn that. Made my day You might try swapping in one of the other switches on your panel to see if that works (only because it's easy) before you spring for a new switch or begin searching though the wiring loom and associated connections. Cheers Devin
  11. Yay! Success!!! Thank you for the link Ahsai, the connector location was the last piece I needed. Turns out I had been looking in exactly the wrong place. I really wanted to have my A/C working by this weekend and was becoming pessimistic. JFPs suggestion was what I needed. I went from not knowing how to continue to a successful outcome in just a few hours. I love that feeling of accomplishment you get when you fix a problem that's a challenge. It appears the A/C clutch wire connector was just loose and shorting against the block. Thanks for your help JFP and Ahsai and for your help with hundreds of other past threads that have helped me out as well.
  12. Thanks so much! I barely touched the Compressor clutch wire and it popped out of it's connection (without me seeing what it was connected to). Without the clutch drawing current the fuse is no longer blowing (progress for sure). Now I need to figure out what compressor plug wire plugs back into. I've removed the throttle body for a better view but I still cannot seem to locate the connection and am not really sure what I'm looking for.
  13. I'm trying to track down an electrical problem on my 2000 C2 Cabriolet. My climate control is working fine unless I turn on the A/C while the car is running. When I turn on the A/C the compressor engages and runs for around 2 seconds before the 30A A/C Heater system fuse in slot D6 blows. The cabin blower then stops along with anything else on the circuit. I am trying to figure out where to start. Is there is an A/C vent flap motor or other item on the same circuit that I might look at or should I do more to rule out the A/C clutch? The Bentley Circuit diagram is a bit to complex for me tell what is protected by the D6 fuse. I have tried swapping out the A/C Heater Relay (relay 18) with no impact on the problem. Any thoughts are appreciated
  14. You should be able to depress the switch in the roof hook receiver on the lighting console located above the front window. This should allow you to operate the rear window regulator assuming it is clear of obstacles.
  15. I replaced the rubber seals on my headlights with the referenced steel product. It is definitely a generic product and does not fit like the factory seal. The edges on the original factory seal are rounded and it is formed to fit the curvature of the lights. The new rubber seal width also had to be trimmed a bit in places to allow the headlight to fit back into the body without excessive force. On a close inspection this retrofit does not look as good as the original, however it is far superior to the original once the original seal has degraded (mine was turning to goo). This product can also be easily removed should a better solution be found. There is probably a generic product out there that would be a better replacement but I didn't want to go through the trouble to discover it given that someone had already found a serviceable solution. Best of luck on your project!
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