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Showing results for tags 'cooling'.
Found 11 results
Hello All, The car has been awesome 2006 987.1 30k miles. The other day i took it for a drive and stopped after about 150 miles for about 30miins when I came out, all my coolant was on the floor. I refilled the coolant and constantly checked the temperature, initially it edged up to 180F but then settled back down to 175F and stayed that way all the way home. I was driving gently and kept cheeking the coolant level. Since then I found that I needed to open the coolant needle valve and drive around for 3 or 4 days to bleed the cooling system. I'm on day 2 and the coolant level has gone down slightly. Whenever I stop I check the floor and there has been no coolant leak. I am baffled, anyone seen this before? Thanks.
06 S Today while sitting in traffic I heard a slight pop on the passenger side and saw smoke/steam fly out from the passenger side at the windshield. Temperatures climbed slightly over the next 10 minutes but came back to normal as I made my way home. Upon immediate inspection, I see nothing obvious except some coolant on the ground coming from behind the passenger front wheel, and the fill cap there at the windshield junction was a little wet. There was also a little on a bolt directly down from the torque arm. I do not know the routing of the lines or what to look for once I get this all off, if I can even see where the leak is coming from. Can someone explain the coolant line routing in that area and suspected fail points?
Turbo/Turbo S (maybe even GTS) thermostats are not the typical looking reverse poppet design I've come to know an love (hate?) over the years. The "standard" design is pretty obvious - a hole opens up in the middle against the flow of water. On the Turbo/Turbo S it seems to be a balanced sleeve (am I correct?), which allows pressurized coolant to circulate around all of its moving parts. Sounds great, but I don't understand how it restricts the flow. Upon 1st impression it would seem to me coolant can pass right through it unrestricted, regardless of the position of the internals. I do realize the water pump sits in front of the thermostat and that the inlet(s) coming from the engine and the outlet tubes exit out just over the water pump both are both behind the thermostat. This must have something to do with it but in my mind, having both inlet and the outlet on the other side of the thermostat means the water pump isn't doing anything but churning coolant. See diagram on page 89 of this parts diagram: https://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/en/E_9PA1_KATALOG.pdf Does somebody know how this all works? Your knowledge is appreciated!
Durametric says I have a problem with the passenger side radiator fan. Using the Actions controls to turn on the radiator fans, the passenger side fan does not turn on in either low or high setting. Previously while replacing brake pads I removed the wheel well liner and inspected the radiator unit. The fan turns freely when manually pushed but does not turn under computer control. So the fan motor appears to have failed. Driver's side fan works fine. The fan is mounted to the radiator as a unit and it appears impossible to remove just the fan without removing the whole unit, and given the tight space it appears necessary to disconnect the unit from the cooling hoses to do so. I was hoping to avoid this and replace just the fan. I have searched and there are numerous sources for replacing the whole unit but none (that I've found) that discuss whether the fan can somehow be removed and replaced by itself. Does anybody know if this can be done? 2005 Boxster, manual, no mods.
Does anyone have a solution for debris easily getting into the radiator area? Leaves, needles, trash, etc. Under the license plate isn't protected at all, and the openings to each side allow tons of stuff through. I'm thinking something like the GT3 has -- mesh that fits right and looks right. Going in with a shop vac every second or third wash seems the only "solution."
I recently purchased some used radiator air ducts for my 2006 C2S. The airducts looked great and no broken clips in the photo and when I spoke to the seller. However when the air ducts arrived some of the clips where you slide the air ducts onto the radiator were broken. I did see where the seller tried to tape them up to protect them so I can't blame the seller. The post office I can blame. Well has anyone ever repaired their air ducts clips? If so how did you do it? Bodyshop maybe? plastics fabricator? I hate to have to buy two more of these. ocmacman
Just wanted to post some results from recently cleaning my radiators. After owning the car for 14 years, I finally got to this! I didn't realize until recently how much this affects the cooling of the car. But after going through an imploded ATF cooler which caused an intermix problem in the cooling system and caused the transmission to die, I thought I had done everything to refresh the system back to normal. I flushed and cleaned all the coolant lines and put in a new water pump and low-temp thermostat, yet I was still getting regular readings higher than I'd like to see, in the ~205F range. So you have some reference, this is the front of the left radiator when I got to it: This is what dropped to the floor when I got the cover off (and what was still in the cover): Of course, I forgot to take pictures of what was between the front radiator and the a/c radiator, but it was at least as bad. All-in-all I figure I got about 6lbs of crapola out of there. So, here's what's really cool. Before doing the cleaning my temperature was regularly running into the right side of the "0", even when the outside temp was reasonable: That was typical, even after only ~12 minutes of my daily commute to/from work. As you can see, only 68F that day outside and it was still running hot. (Pay no attention to the time, I broke my clock adjustor several years back). Now onto today...it's been blistering out here in Southern California and this is my temperature after driving stop and go through the city for about 20 minutes, with 102F outside: Steady at 180F, even with pushing it pretty hard. I am seriously amazed at what a difference this has made! I've only been tinkering with cars for a few years now, so I never knew about the radiators getting clogged up and causing such a big difference in cooling efficiency. I've tackled some pretty big projects on this Boxster and my two BMW's, but just goes to show you that if you are ignorant about something so simple then you really have no clue how to address it. This was maybe an hour of work and a 1 out of 10 in difficulty. I'm sure this is an obvious thing to nearly all of you, and this is why boards like this are fantastic. I would have never known about cleaning the radiators (and many other things I've learned here) had it not been for all the contributions of time and effort to help guys like me who are just in our infancy of tinkering. Anyway, just wanted to share my results and say a big thanks to everyone who contributes here!
Hey all, Looking for some help here. I developed a pretty bad coolant leak about a month ago, i was losing about 1 liter per week. When I got under the car i saw the dripping coming from the tip of the waterpump, and surrounding areas. Since the car had gone about 60k since it was last replaced I bought that and replaced it thinking that would be it. However, after assembling everything back together.... The leak seems to be coming out of whatever is next to it. Attached are a few pictures, any help as to what this is; or how to troubleshoot would be great!
Howdy everyone! Just some quick background as an intro, I purchased a 04 Cayenne TT last weekend with 57K miles down in Ft. Lauderdale for use by my wife as a local daily driver. So, right now I'm in the process of de-bugging the vehicle to make it as reliable as possible. According to the local indy shop I'm using that services Porsche I've got one crushed transmission mount, the motor mounts are tired (but not bad), and they had the feeling something was loose in the suspension but they weren't sure - air struts all raise & lower the vehicle OK. From the initial inspecton it seems to run & drive OK however, no leaks or squeaks. I'm doing tires all around next week on a labor day sale (the last owner mixed two different brands of criminally cheap imported tires, I found major sidewall cracks in one tire after a 5-minute inspection!) and I've been doing some EBAY for nickle-dime replacement pieces. My local Porsche dealer did NOT win my initial vote of confidence yesterday, I went down & made a small parts order and asked if they could pull a service history on the vehicle for me to see if I had the coolant pipes upgraded, they used the line on me that "our computer system is not hooked to other Porsche dealers and you'll have to visit each individual dealer that serviced the car for a complete history". Yeah, right. And I'm coming back to your service department really, really soon..... hear the cold wind blowing? :) Anyway, to the point of the post. During my initial inspection, I heard and two other competent folks heard some rattling at the front of the engine. It wasn't the constant "tap tap tap" you'd get with the tired piston syndrome on the 4.5's like I've heard on the YouTube videos, but just a mid-frequency rattle of low to intermittent occurrence. Once I thought I had a whiff of coolant but I'm not sure. So, to err on the side of caution I'm probably going to do a water pump and at the same time do the coolant pipe changeout along with whatever T's I can replace with metal subs while the engine's open. Water pump brands. I know there's multiple manufacturers out there, OEM Porsche, Laso, Hytec Debartolo, Gates, Bosch, ASC Industries, GMB, and the list continues. Anyone know who has the best QA on the pumps to hopefully stave off another failure? Granted the first pump (assuming for discussion it is the original pump) lasted 10 years, but does anyone else stand out as superior? Also... on the coolant pipe replacement, I was considering strongly using the revised ECS Tuning kit. They seem to supply everything that's needed along with some extra, also ECS has a good reputation from folks I've talked to. So, has anyone used their kit as opposed to the one from the Porsche dealer? The ECS kit is $599 plus shipping. Here's a linky: http://www.ecstuning.com/Porsche-2004-Cayenne-955-Turbo-Sport_Utility-V8_4.5L/News/Porsche_Cayenne_S_Turbo_Coolant_Pipe_Upgrade_Kits_2003_2004_2005_2006/ES2594479/ Thanks for input before I start shelling out major $$$! Eric
Hi, I have been on a several of journeys recently, in my 2006 Cayman S, that have been over two hours and my PCM turns its self off and resets itself after about two hours, then when it come back on it works for about 30 mins, then resets iteself, then 10 mins etc. Eventually theres no point having it on. If you touch the front, the screen it seems quite hot, so I'm not sure if its an overheating problem. There are no error messages, the music stops, the screen goes blank then the white screen comes up with the Porsche logo. Has this happened to anyone else and does anyone have any ideas what it could be? Thanks
this is regarding the 4 zone ac on my car. here is what i have observed so far: When i start he car and turn on ac, the driver side (front and rear) feel nice and cold, but the passenger side (front and rear) feel much warmer. It appears to me that something is not right and wanted to see if someone can help troubleshoot. the heat is not far away here in TX and i would like it resolved before then. Where do i start, whac can be suspect, etc. looking forward to having this resolved. Greatly aopreciate any help.