Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

jonathan

Members
  • Content Count

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About jonathan

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Fields

  • Porsche Club
    No
  1. Have the dealer look at the differentials and/or the mechanism that makes them lock. It sounds like the center differential is locking partially or fully when hot. That will show up on hard pavement as a pulsing or, when it gets really bad, a popping feel. When the diff is locked on a hard surface then in tight turns the wheel swill build up a torque difference between them which makes the steering wheel jerk a little or the tires pop as they equalize. If it goes on too long you can thrash the differential entirely...which is why you should be unlocked on hard surfaces. If you have the o
  2. Installed the top a few months back; very happy with it so far. The top is made by GAHH. R&R took six hours, evenly split, but I'm pretty slow and careful.
  3. Actually I found it to be a very easy install. It takes a long time, about 3 hours off and three hours on for the new top, but it's straightforward and does not require any special tools. The one area to watch is first-closing tightness. I would advise loosening the tension cables all the way (hex head adjustment bolts in the top compartment, easy to see, right down where the cables snap onto the little balljoints), then closing the top, then tightening the cables until you have it where you want it. I bought my top through CabrioWorld online, but it is the GAHH top. I've been very happ
  4. I DIY installed the CabrioWorld (GAHH) top last weekend (14-15 May). I can second Porscheguy05's notes. Other than being time-consuming it was not difficult to do. The rear bow where the top and weather stripping come together was a little confusing. I had to stare at the directions and the bow for a while before it all clicked. Unlike Porscheguy05 I did remove the plastic side pieces on the top bow. These are the ones with the plastic plugs mentioned by the instructions. On mine the plastic plug holders snapped during disassembly, so proceed with caution. The plastic was just too ol
  5. I just received the CabrioWorld top as well. To confirm for the second time, it is the GAHH top. I ordered the German A5 canvas version in black. It looks very sharp in the box and the quality appears first-rate. I look forward to putting it onto the car. For those that order through CabrioWorld: they included a printout of the Porsche install .PDF with the order as well as a 'notes' page from a Boxster owner who did a DIY install. Very helpful. PorscheGuy, I don't have any specific questions yet but if you have any advice or can point out any trouble spots to look out for that would
  6. 0586slb, would you happen to know the part number for the ECT? Thanks!
  7. BTW: there is a less expensive source for the glass-window top that fits earlier model Boxsters. I just bought one from CabrioWorld for ~700 shipped. I won't receive it until next week but I'll post then re: perceived quality etc.
  8. I was just looking at that idea (the headliner). The install manuals at www.alldatadiy.com show both the with and without procedures. I haven't done a side-by-side comparison yet. One obvious difference is that there is a different middle bow piece for the with-headliner version. This piece has a channel in it that accepts some part of the headliner, not clear which. If, as Tool Pant's contact mentioned, that piece is the only difference, then it should be pretty easy to do. I have to take care of the top itself first but maybe I'll do the headliner later.
  9. Self-answer. The lines are AN-5 sized and use 14mm and 16mm ball-seat fittings. The size of the fitting varies depending on your particular motor/car combination. The crossover lines from one fuel rail to the other are AN-6 on the 2.5L motor. On the 3.4L motor the pressure side crossover is AN-8 and the return is AN-6.
  10. Doubtful. The whole housing is plastic-welded together.
  11. It works just like fiberglass, no over required. Pick up a book from Amazon. I haven't worked with it yet but did the research. Apparently the major difference is that carbon is more expensive that fiberglass (about 2x) and doesn't "wet out" as easily...i.e. it takes more work to get a quality part. Vacuum bagging is the best way to go if you care to spend the time and buy the equipment but you can also just hand-lay it. If you need aerospace quality (reliable, repeatable, structural properties) then definitely vac bag. Heat is not required unless you are using exotic epoxy. Two-part
  12. I forget which code is which, but if your fuel consumption *increased* then it's probably running rich, not lean. Anyway; the AOS is easy to replace. Just the two vertically aligned 10mm-head bolts into the block and the two plastic connectors. Under the bottom of the AOS is the suction line into separator for the pass-side cylinder back. It's a little accordion-pleat rubber hose about 3" long (if that). It's held on by a spring-band clamp but it attaches to a smooth metal tube so it can be pulled straight off too. You can reach it from below or from above if you have small hands and a
  13. The carpeted panel is held on at the top by four wide flat plastic nuts. You can turn them off by hand or with a wide blade screw driver. To get to these nuts you will need to remove the carpet panel over the motor. Under that behind-the-seat carpet is the firewall and access panel. The access panel is sheet aluminum and held on by seven small bolts and two nuts. Use a 10mm socket for all of them. The nuts will require a deep well socket and I would also use a wobbly extension if you have one. The clearance between the rachet head and the leather top of the storage compartment is tight
  14. You can also try pushing the mirrors with your finger a little bit to see if that loosens them up. If you only use the mirror adjustment rarely they can stiffen up enough that the little motors can't break the friction. Push the mirrors until they start to move and then try the switch again.
  15. Re the dyno: No, that will not cause the trouble codes you are seeing although it would engage PSM temporarily.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.