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spooltime

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Everything posted by spooltime

  1. If you prefer not having to cut (i.e., shorten) an 8mm allen wrench to allow it to reach the fill hole on the front diff, Amazon sells a "stubby" set of allen metric wrenches that already have a shorter reach than typical allen wrenches. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O4AII/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1'>http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O4AII/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I picked up the set and it made doing the diffs simple - no clearance issues whatsoever.
  2. For all of you Durametric users, I just noticed they've updated their software to a newer version (v6.5.0.6). I'm probably the last to know since I haven't checked their website in a while, but I'm updating my laptop and will give it a try this weekend to see if they've added any obvious new features for the Cayenne.
  3. Does your Cayenne have the 4-zone air conditioning option? If so, it's normal for the condensation from the rear A/C unit to drain behind the driver's side rear wheel.
  4. Checked the parts diagram and it looks like there are two primary vacumn hoses and the pump itself. I'm wondering if there's a way to isolate the vacumn leak to either the pump or one of the lines? Since the system obviously re-pressurizes after the pump is running again, I'm wondering if the leak is in one of the lines or maybe a seal inside the pump? Is R&R a DIY project or is this one for the dealer?
  5. I've noticed recently that more often than not, when I first attempt to depress the brake pedal in order to start my Cayenne, the pedal caanot be pushed in at all. Then, once it starts, the pedal depresses normally. In the past, I could depress the brake pedal downward prior to starting. I'm thinking the reluctant brake pedal when the engine isn't running is symptom of some problem with maybe the master cylinder or other hydraulic component, or perhaps a brake line. I have no clue. Anyone else encountered this or have any ideas on what's up with the no-movement brake pedal prior to start-up?
  6. This is correct. The Porsche TSBs state that 6 years is the maximum age for tires. Obviously, they may last longer than that, but the rubber does begin to deteriorate. I'd be afraid to run 8 year old tires on any vehicle for fear of what happened to your tire.
  7. Yes, there are certain tire options pre-coded into the TPMS "setting" menu, but it is possible to code in one available field for a tire size not among the pre-coded in selections. There's a reference to this in the shop manual, and if you go into the coding section for the TPMS module, you can even see the available field to code. I'll take a screen shot of the coding section and post it up later. Basically, I'd like to add a 21" wheel/tire option to my '06. It's probably a piece of cake to do with the PIWIS; maybe not so much with my Durametric.
  8. Yes, same bulb - D1S, 35w, Porsche part number N 105 661 01. I'm only guessing about a possible improved reflective surface since you're stating that you observed the newer model being brighter.
  9. Has anyone ever successfully used the Durametric to add an alternative tire size to the TPMS control module? Porsche documentation states there is a programmable field available to do this, and in the control module section of the Durametric software, the coding function takes you to a screen also showing the "freely programmable" field. Not being a programmer or having access to any coding documentation, I could not figure out what "code" I needed to input in order to get the TPMS to display 295/35/21 as a tire size option, summer tire, partial load. Anyone have a clue????? Right now, I simply have TPMS turned off; I'd rather have it active.
  10. The 2013 model also uses a D1S bulb, so maybe the reflective surface has been improved in the later model.
  11. If it's like most bumper covers, you may need to remove the entire cover to access the clips that hold the badge on. I haven't really look at it, but it might also be possible to remove the bumper cover fasteners across the top of the cover and see if there's enough flex there to be able to stick your hand underneath and reach the clips.
  12. Unfortunately, on the 955 turbo models, there is a LOT of disassembly required in order to even get at the belt so it's not a small project. I'm wondering at what mileage it makes sense to replace the tensioner while you're doing the belt. I inspected my belt (has about 86K on it) and it's beginning to develop a few small cracks, so I know a replacement will be solid preventative maintenance in the not too distant future. I'm wondering if a fresh tensioner is warranted while it's all apart. No signs of slippage or anything, but tensioners tend to be wear items and eventually do require replacement. Recommendation or thoughts, anyone?
  13. Then there's always the genuine Porsche parts option. There are several online places that provide decent discounts on genuine new parts.
  14. I'm not familiar with the Milltek bypass pipes. The most commonly used bypass pipes on this side of the big pond, Fabspeed's and Leistung's, are both designed to replace only the secondary catalytic converters and bolt right up to the remaining factory exhaust system. I have a set on my CTTS and believe it's the single best mod I've done. The primary catalysts are integral with the downpipes, and have the pre and post 02 sensor ports on them. Most guys leave these unmolested. A secondary bypass install does not require ECU remap, but obviously a remap will further enhance the performance of the vehicle. Personally, I would advise against doing an aftermarket exhaust unless you're just looking for more noise; they don't really offer much incremental performance.
  15. Good points! I wasn't thinking about suspension related items, but should have been. I've already replaced the engine torque arm. Those things are lucky if they last 50K miles.
  16. I frequentlly see the Dension loop offered for sale on eBay. For example, try this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dension-FOA1TL1-Fiber-Optic-Loop-/121216834623?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item1c39161c3f&vxp=mtr#ht_115wt_916
  17. My CTTS is currently showing around 86K on the odometer and knowing that I plan to keep this beautiful vehicle "forever", I'm wondering what things I should do now to get and stay ahead of the preventative maintenance curve. It's already had virtually all of the usual items like coolant pipes and cardan shaft already done. I've read somewhere that the water pump and thermostat are candidates for planned replacement, and it would make sense to install new "T" hoses at the same time, and then cap it off with a coolant refresh. I'm not having any issues now, but is there a "recommended" mileage for doing a preventative water pump replacement and related item? Any other items that typcially fail in the 85K - 100K mileage range that I should consider replacing?
  18. Just curious, were you getting any fault codes related to the O2 sensors? OBDII has specific fault codes for O2 sensor related faults.
  19. I scanned through the DIYs and the pinned thread on fluids and may have missed the answer to my question, but I'm wondering if like for the engine oil, it's better to drain the diffs and transfer case while the fluids are warm in order to achieve more complete drainage? Or does it matter? I know, probably a dumb question but I had to ask since I'm planning to do this in the very near future.
  20. See this thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/45713-upper-engine-torque-support/
  21. The torque support arm is designed to relieve stress on the passenger side motor mount, as well as keep other components in relative alighnment while the engine is twisting towards the passenger side fender under heavy torque load. Others may have noticed obvious symptons, but I didn't. I just did a visual inspection because this is a part known to eventually wear out over time. If yours has a crack or multilple cracks (like mine), the part has failed and should be replaced.
  22. Removed and replaced the torque support this past weeked. The original torque support large bushing was completely broken - cracked on all sides. it was clearly incapable of serving its intended purpose. Here's a shot of the removed part: I would recommend that owners of first generation V8 Cayennes inspect this part and replace if necessary.
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