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darrinsmith

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Everything posted by darrinsmith

  1. I had a similar problem with my 968 which I beleive has the same 4 speed auto as your 993. A bearing went releasing metal shards into the oil which destroyed the hydraulic pump and required a transmission rebuild. It was catagorised by "flaring" shifts. My 996 also required a rebuild for flaring shifts. Unfortunately as I have learnt, there is no simple repair for auto transmissions, a full rebuild is the only option. I'm currently 2 to 2 on rebuilding automatic transmissions with Porsches, ZF make crap transmissions. My Condolances. DS
  2. Have you guys seen this... NAV-TV releases world’s first replacement head unit module for the Porsche Cayenne http://dupontregistry.wordpress.com/2009/0...orsche-cayenne/ Interestingly it doesn't appear on their website at all... I already have a gateway 500 in my 03 TT, but I'd definately go this route for my next Cayenne and 997. Hope this is of interest... Cheers DS
  3. Thanks So if I change the battery, I need to get the car towed to the dealer? or will it start with the steel Keys? The dealer is on the other side of the city (about 40km) in a really PITA place to get to. They are the only ones in Western Australia with a system tester. Thanks again. DS
  4. Thanks Guys After also looking at similar problems with VW owners I suspect the battery might be causing problems. It is more than 7 years old so definately needs replacing. After I replace the battery I understand the keys need relearning. I also understand the Durametric software cannot do this (yet). I've seen VAG commander which boasts the ability to rekey the cayenne. Can anyone comment whether it actually works? They are selling on e-bay cheaper than what the dealer charges for 15 minutes labour (their minimum charge to do anything). Thanks DS
  5. Thanks Guys Is there a part number or similar I can use to identify the module? Also I assume this diagram is for a LHD car. Mine is RHD so I assume the module is located on the right hand side in my car? ie locations are mirrored. Thanks DS
  6. Thanks Loren, That's what I figured. Do you know where on the car the unit is located? I might try to source a second hand unit and have it re-coded at at the dealer. I shudder to think what a new unit would cost. I forgot to mention that my wife dropped the key in the dish water that morning, but it was recovered immediately and it didn't look like any water got in. The key worked fine till midday when the whole system stopped. The spare key also does not work. Thanks DS
  7. Here the log from the Durametric software... --- Begin Log --- Cayenne Kessy Selected About to get fault codes moduleType = CayKessy DTC Count = 4 Fault Number:180 Description:Antenna front right/rear right Repair Infomation: Repair Infomation:Present DTC Count = 4 Fault Number:181 Description:Antennas on rear bumper Repair Infomation: Repair Infomation:Present DTC Count = 4 Fault Number:183 Description:Interior antenna Repair Infomation: Repair Infomation:Present DTC Count = 4 Fault Number:3 Description:Control module faulty Repair Infomation: Repair Infomation:No signal / Communication Repair Infomation:Present --- End Log --- After clearing the fault memory the last error #3 just repeats over and over. Thanks DS
  8. Hi Today the Kessy system on my 2003 Cayenne Turbo died suddenly. Then after getting in and out of the car a couple of times during the morning using the normal keyless entry and drive system, it suddenly died about midday. We can use the car using the steel keys, but the enter and drive system is completely dead. The key fobs will still activate/deactivate the alarm and lock/unlock the doors. I ran the durametric software and found three very worrying errors in order. The first two were "could not find rear bumper antenna and front bumper antenna respectively" The third was that communication with the control module could not be established. I cleared the diagnostic codes but the communication error remains. Is there a specific fuse I should check? I checked the ones I thought were relevant but no luck. Oh well it almost due for it's annual $10,000 spend..... :-( Thanks DS
  9. Hi, Just to finish off this topic I got my car back yesterday after a full rebuild on the transmission :-( On the down side cost was about $7,400 AUD, which I didn't think was too bad in the scheme of things. On the plus side it drives like new now. There was nothing they could really put their finger on, just generally worn out all together. A little disappointing after only 140,000km. Anyway all fixed now, Thanks DS
  10. Hi I have been using the 5w-50. It is listed as Porsche Approved on the Mobil 1 Australian website. As is the 0W-30. Those other brands are very uncommon here. ie I have heard of them but never seen them at my local auto shops. Anyway changing the oil again today, lucky I bought heaps of 5w-50 when the store had a 40% off special offer. But we have to change our oil here every 10,000km due to the poor fuel quality. Thanks Darrin Smith
  11. Hi I just have a really silly question about oil type for a 2003 turbo. I notice that the types of oil do vary across different markets. Here in Australia, Mobil1 is widely available but only in certain grades. I can only get 0W-40, 5W-30 and 5W-50 easily here. I have bee using 5W-50 for both my Cayenne Turbo and 996. I didn't think a 0W-40 was particularly suitable here given our hot summers (30-40oC) and the fact it never gets really cold here (no snow or ice) in winter. Car does use a bit of oil, but I think that's mainly due to my wifes heavy right foot! Can anyone comment? Thanks Darrin Smith
  12. Hi I've searched the forums for a DIY on replacing the drive belt on a 2003 Turbo. No luck. It looks very similar to my 996, but does anyone have a DIY. Thanks in advance Darrin Smith
  13. Ok we went camping again, (these cars are AWESOME offroad - but that's another story). I connected the solar trickle charger to the power outlet in the rear, and sat the small panel on the roof of the car. Worked perfectly! In my car (2003 turbo) the cigarette outlets are switched, so you need to use either of the 12V power outlets in the rear, or the ones in the passenger footwell. Happy camping! Darrin Smith Perth Western Australia
  14. Thanks Already tried that, I'll just try harder! I've already mangled it a bit, otherwise my plan B is as Ashai suggests. Thanks Darrin Smith
  15. Hi By was of a follow up our next off raod trip was totally awesome, super tough rocks, boggy soft sand, washed out rivers, so far from anywhere (do a google earth search for Zydorpt wreck). Anyway I found that when you are stuck in sand, you can "feather" the throttle, and partially "defeat" the traction control. We were able to crawl out (with a couple of people pushing!) which the camper trailer (pop-top to you Americans!) attached. Go off-road today! the scratches polish out! Cheers Darrin Smith Perth Western Australia. Best Beaches in the World!
  16. Hi Goodyear now make a Wrangler ATR that fits 18" I currently have Pirelli P-zeros (yep no joke) on my 18" "off road" wheel set and they work well in sand and rock. I really go off road too! Real hard crawl stuff, my last trip took 3 hours to travel 40km! it was THAT BAD!, boggy soft sand, super bumpy rock, washed out rivers, awesome. Really scratched up the truck. But riding on air on the turbo was awesome! Cheers DS
  17. Hi Rizzo, Yeah finding a real off road tyre is hard for these cars. My off-road 18" wheel actually have Pirelli P-zeros! In boggy sand you can let them down o as low as 16PSI. I recently climbed a really steep rocky "goat track" towing my 1.2 tonne off road camper trailer with these tyres, no problem. Just crawled up to the absolute amazement on my camping buddies (1 x Toyota Landcruiser 110 series, and 1 x Hilux). Back on topic though, where you need sidewall is when you let you pressure down, I have sucessfully 4wd'd in sand in the 19" 275/45 tyres at 18PSI. It's all about the "length" of you tyre track, not the width. Don't forget if you get suck in Sand you can feather the throttle to defeat the traction control (to a certain extent) to keep the momentum up without spinning the wheels. With rocks, let you pressure down a bit, but GO SLOW, popping the bead is a real hassle (although the turbo's built-in air compressor is really handy in this situation!). These cars are awesome off-road, get out and enjoy! Cheers Darrin Smith Perth Western Australia "Home of the most beautiful beaches in the world!" (that you can drive your 4WD on!)
  18. Hi I am pleased to say that today I did a complete rotor and pad change on my 99 cab tiptronic thanks completely to the awesome instructions in the DIY section of the forums. I want to change my brake fluid also, but got stuck at the brake fluid resovoir screen. I tried screwdriver, needle nose pliers, but it just won't budge, Any clues would really help. BTW for the jacking DIY by orientexpress, I couldn't get my jack under the car, so I drove the back wheels up onto a flat concrete paving slab (about 3/4 of an inch thick) under each rear wheel and was easily able to lift the car, both at the rear jack point, and rear cross member. (All the team mech's at my usual track day ALWAYS us the cross member, NOT the engine casing, even on the GT3's). Really looking forward to my next DIY on my "other" porsche (cayenne turbo) already done an oil change again with the help of the DIY on this forum. Thanks again! Darrin Smith Perth, Western Australia
  19. Hi Same problem on 2003 Turbo, replacement shaft required at approx 100,000km cost AUD $1,500. Good luck with your law suit. Porsche Cars Australia's official line to owners here is "Go F*ck yourself!" We have no re-dress against the manufacturer here. Cheers DS
  20. Thanks The reason I suspect the sensor is that the problem is intermittant. Thanks DS
  21. Hi I am also getting this error (P0021) repeatedly on my 2003 Turbo. It also seems to be accompanied by enging "harshness" around 3000-3500 rpm, which smooths out at higher rpm. Is there a DIY for locating and replacing the sensor? I couldn't find one on the search. I'd rather try that before unleashing the dealer on the car. Thanks Darrin Smith
  22. Thanks that makes perfect sense to me! Also I was wondering, is the brake bleed order the same as in Loren's DIY for RHD cars (given the brake booster is on the right-hand-side of the car). I would assume the left and right sides should be reversed, as the rear-left would be the furthest from the booster. So for LHD cars the order is Right rear, Left rear, Right front, Left front (as per the DIY) but for RHD cars, the order should be Left Rear, Right Rear, Left Front, and Right front last of all. Cheers DS
  23. Hi Just a quick silly question, when "backing off" the park brake shoes inside the rear disc, do you turn the adjuster clockwise or anti-clockwise? I assume anti-clockwise, and clockwise to bring them on again. Thanks DS
  24. Hi, Get yourself the Smarttop, it's the best acessory you'll ever buy for your Cab. It lets you open and close the top while moving at slow speeds, and also gives you "one-touch" up and down operation. There's no need for the handbrake and the one touch operation works for about 10 seconds after you stop, so you can pull up at the lights, hit the down button once, and before the light turns green, you've got the top down (or up if you hit the up button!). It also lets you put the rear quarter windows up with the top down, which you can't normally do on the early model cars. It also still allows the factory operation with the key in the door. Takes about 10 minutes to install. I thoroughly recommend it! Dont wait buy one today if you're a roof down fiend like me! (PS I dont' work for these guys, just a very satisfied customer). Cheers DS
  25. Isn't the cigarette lighter switched? so if the ignition is off, then isn't it isolated from the battery? so it won't charge at all? Jump posts sound like the go. Cheers DS
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