Mijostyn

I can see some one doing that. Fortunately an easy fix ;-) I think we get ripped off for Mobilube PTX. You can use Shell Spirax S5 ATE. Ferrari and Getrag specify it in their transaxles. You have to buy it in drums. It is just a tad thicker than PTX but you would never notice it. I use it in the Winter and Millers Oil EE 75W 90 Nanodrive in the Summer. Delvac was formulated for Caterpillar heavy equipment. As Dus10R notes it is crap in our transaxles. It has a poor viscosity index and it is way too thick when it is cold. All the other oils are in the middle and are OK in warm weather cars but still a little stiff in 1st and 2nd when cold. Only Mobilube PTX and Shell Spirax S5 ATE will work in these cars below freezing.

Should not cost more than $300. I'm with Phillip on this one. Changing out an exhaust is usually a straight forward task on a 911. For the exhaust manifold cap screws get 18-8 stainless M8x26s. I use Wurth CU-800 antiseize on all high temp threaded fasteners. Stuff is good up to 2200 F. With the antiseize cut the torque spec from the standard 17 ftlb to 12 ftlb. I also re torque all exhaust fasteners once a year.....probably because I have nothing better to do.

Yes, Millers is getting it's Nano particles from someone else. They do talk about the onion skinning effect so, it may be from AP. I'm sure there is a fair amount of science in the formulation, concentrations etc which is Millers specialty. They started easy with the Gear oils in race cars. They are just starting to get out their street car Nano engine oils. I actually like the formulation of the Race oils better. As long as you do not burn oil the additional ZDDP will not attack your catalysts. If you think your oil may still be OK you can get a sample by just dropping the oil filter and adding the 1/2 liter back. My problem was not the oil. It would have been good to go if it was not diluted with fuel. It does not matter what oil I use. Given the same circumstances the same thing will happen. Now, I let the car idle for 5 minutes on start up before driving off. Hopefully this will help. A $600/year oil habit I am definately not fond of.

Thanx Richard. As my car is still under warranty I'll see of I can persuad Porsche into paying for two kits. Lyn, these transmitters can work at quite a distance. Inadvertent triggering can occur almost anywhere. When I pull into my garage I always leave the key in the ignition 1/2 pulled out. The hood never opens under this condition. You might want to set up a condition where the buttons can not be inadvertently pressed and see how it goes.

Richard is exactly right. Last year I came off the ski mountain to fine the hood and doors open after I know darn well I locked them. It happened several more times under different circumstances. Finally, one day I was crouching next to the car with the key in my pocket and the hood opened and the doors locked. Crouching tightened the fabric of my pants around the key pressing the buttoms. The single common denominator was having the key in a pants pocket! Richard, how much was the Kit? (to correct defective engineering. but then Germans never make a mistake)

Woops, It turns out the pads are not the same. 997.1 S cars use a 996 part. 997.2 S cars a new 997 part which appears different than the Turbo and GT3 parts. So, be careful when you order. Foscoe944, yes, please keep us informed.

Great question! I was just thinking about this yesterday as I was cleaning the brake dust off the back of my car. The pads are the same. As far as I know they did not change the brakes. I have an 06 C4S. There are a bunch of pads out there. The Hawks, Cool Carbons, Pagid and others. Pelican Parts sells all three. My understanding is if you go to a ceramic pad like the Hawk the dust is less but the performance under certain conditions (track) may not be as good. Porsche uses metalic pads which work better under hard driving, make more dust and interestingly, do poorly when they are cold. Several times in the Winter I noted poor braking when just starting out. I have not spoken to anyone who has used Cool Carbons or Pagid. It does seem the Hawk is most popular on this forum. Anyone with experience please weight in!!

Yes, it is Millers CSF (competition full synthetic) 5W 40. It uses a bit more ZDDP than current Porsche spec calls for which is a good thing. The base stocks are the best quality. However, at $180 an oil change many are going to shy away. If it turns out I have to change the oil every three grand I may shy away. That would be three times a year. I also use their EE 75W 90 Nanodrive gear oil. It is a little stiff when cold but otherwise wonderful. All together the car runs like a top. Very pleased now after a rough start.

Yup, It is the belt. When the rubber is cold it does not grip as well, just like your tires. The tension needs to be checked. Take it back to the shop and complain. They should fix it for nothing. When the pulleys go bad it is usually the bearings and they squeek in rhythm to rotation speed.

Well, if as Simonthackeray and you relate it only occurs after the car has been driven a while than it is most certainly is not the lever. The lever would not care if the car is warm or not. It has to be the tranny. Changing fluid and checking for codes would be a start. After that you are into serious business. Lord knows what PDK transmissions will do to us 10 years down the line.

Yes, it just changes the sound with the aid of a solenoid and flapper valve. If you feel like changing the exhaust system go right ahead. The only down side will be a worthless switch in your center console. It won't affect anything else in the car. You can save a lot of weight in the back of the car by going to an aftermarket exhaust like Fabspeed and you'll sound sporty all the time.

That's it. A whole big magilla over the sound. Sport Chrono and PASM change throttle mapping and damping. In a Turbo you also get more boost. It gets even better. In the 991 you can get the Sound Symposer. I think it opens a tube or something increasing the conduction of engine noise into the passenger compartment. No kidding. Next they will be stuffing microphones in cylinders 1 and 4 and wiring them to the cars sound system so you can sound like a Harley.

Themo, You only need the cans. The O2 sensors are in their normal position and there will not be any check engine lights. Fabspeed quality is excellent as is their service. There may be a little more power on a dyno but it is not something you would notice. 25 lb less in the way back improves handling which you may indeed notice. The sound is a mater of taste. You can go online and hear a car with Fabspeed mufflers but the fidelity is not great. You might find and independent shop near you that is a dealer and they may be able to get a car for you too listen to. IMHO PSE is just a gimmick and something else to break. I always go for the aftermarket exhaust.

A lot of people say this but Millers says that once the oil is diluted it stays that way. My oil levels do stay consistent however the sensitivity of these stupid electronic oil level gauges stinks. (total lack of trust). BRING BACK THE DIP STICK!!!

Themo, if you want better sound there are really great aftermarket cans like Fabspeed which will not only sound better but save about 25 lb in the rear. If you have jackstands it is not a bad DIY project.

Yes White, In most cases, with wear metals it is the trends that mater unless you see a pile of wear metals to start with. Usually, if things are going south, you will pick up small amounts of wear metals which over time slowly increase. The percentage of the various metals depends on which bearing or wear surface is deteriorating. In aircraft engines they can tell exactly where the problem is. We have to guess. This lab needs to run more controls on its machines. I will try Blackstone the next time around. However the fuel dilution is a problem right up front. Another few thousand miles and this oil's viscosity will be below grade. With the M97's habit of scoring cylinders that is the last thing I or any of us want. The usual explanation for cylinder 6 scoring is that it runs hotter than the others and it's oil jet may not be as strong. Those are just the conditions under which you do not want the oil's viscosity to drop. The perfect storm.

This is the first oil analysis report on my 06 C4S 6sp. I was concerned because the 2nd owner beat the ---- out of the car on the track. This sample was taken with 17,400 miles on the odo when the oil had 3000 miles on it. I started to freak when I saw the Nickel level. But in thinking about it, these cars have Lokasil cylinder liners. NO NICKEL. There may be nickel in some of the bearings alloyed to mostly.. Iron. Notice all the other wear metals including iron are just fine. Harry King from Performance Racing Oils spoke to Millers Oil about it and they said this was most definitely a lab error. What turns out to be the real problem is the fuel dilution!! Now, my office is only 3 miles from my house and I live in New Hampshire with cold Winters. The car does a lot of short cycle driving from cold, running rich, barely getting the oil up to operating temp. The oxidation has nothing to do with the oil. It is the dissolved fuel. The viscosity is barely within range from the fuel dilution. As the oil becomes progressively diluted it looses viscosity. One wonders if the problem of scored cylinders has it's basis in this problem!! No way is this or any oil going to make it to 10,000 miles under these conditions. A real eye opener. Check your oil at 3000 miles. If it is OK check it again at 6000 miles. If it is still OK then you are good to go to 10,000 miles under the conditions in which you drive. People who live in warmer climates and do not do short cycle driving will probably be just fine. People like me are going to have to change their oil more frequently or use a higher viscosity to start with. Every Porsche should get VIP parking. Anyone guess where this is?

Hi, All you need to do is get 12 volts to the seat adjustment circuit. All the controls are on the seat proper. So, you will have to locate ground and 12 volt wires in both the car and the seat. The car is easy. Just use any DC volt meter. The seat is a bit more complicated. Best is to take a 12 volt battery. Connect the negative to one pin and then try the positive on each other pin until you hit the combination that makes the seat adjustments run. Mark the wires, cut off the connectors and crimp on insulated male and female spade lugs. If you get the seat heater switch for the dash you can probably also make the seat heater work. I suspect the wiring is already there but I am not 100% sure. My guess is that Porsche uses the exact same wiring harness in all these cars. Also there is a switch in the seat that makes the car aware of an occupant. Turning on seat belt sign. I suspect you won't miss that!!

There is a female old style plug to male new style plug adapter you can buy. Cheap if it works. It sounds to me like you have a ground loop problem which also means the Dension my not be wired correctly and may be grounded at too many points. Frankly, these modules are a pain in the neck. None of them provide seamless Apple integration. If you do not mind spending money on the car the permanent fix is to trash the PCM. Get a NAV TV MOST head unit replacement module and either an Alpine or Kenwood NAV unit and a double DIN installation kit made precisely for the 997. You will get great NAV, much better sound and seamless Apple integration including Pandora. Make sure you use an installer who is familiar with the NAV TV unit as it can be a little tricky to set up. Any high end automotive electronics installer should be familiar with the unit and 977s as the PCM is archaic and new owners are ditching them in droves. The last time I was down at the installer I use he had 2 997s apart at once.

Microswitch only. Part # 997 613 125 00. It is under the forward hinge of each door handle.

I think it is just a switch and it should not care what side of the handle you pull. When I get a chance I will review the cars schematics and let you know.

Then it would have nothing to do with spraying oil into the lock.

This is screwed up. May be a programming problem. PWIS time.

Very interesting behavior. The computer is miss interpreting the door's condition. Let me get this straight. The door is closed and you are in the car. You pull on the inside latch the window cracks, you pull harder, the door opens and the window stays down until you shut the door then it returns to the closed position. Now you are outside and the door is closed. You pull on the latch and the window cracks, you pull harder and the door opens. You let go of the latch and the window goes up in error. The window is now in an error position. It should never be up with the door open. The only reason that the computer would raise the window is because it thinks the door is closed. What is interesting is that when you open the door from the inside the computer knows that the door is open. When you ground out the door lock by touching it to the striker the window goes down. The microswitches in both the indoor and outdoor latches are OK. But, the switch in the lock is not grounding out when you open the door from the outside but does ground out when you open the door from the inside which makes no sense. You have to love those Germans. You have three choices. Live with it as it is, replace the lock, try the brake cleaner and if that fails or f's it up worse replace the lock.

It should also go down when you touch the inside handle. The easy fix is trying to clean out the mechanism with brake cleaner. These microswitches are delicate, like the home button on an iPad. You probably gummed it up so it can't move. The contacts are most probably sealed and OK. You might have better access with the door lock out but getting it out is a lot of work.