Mijostyn

The circlip fits in a groove on the shaft of the halfshaft flange. It takes up any slack in the fit and centers the shaft in its hole. You always replace it whenever you pull the flange out of the transaxle. It usually comes with the seal as a kit. Just pull the flange out and when you are done with the seal, replace the clip and slide the flange carefully back in. A little Vaseline never hurts. If you use a PVC pipe make sure the end is cut perfectly square and flat. On the other end you can cement a cap so, you can apply your taps dead center.You cool with removing the 1/2 shaft? You have to be careful not to ding it. If you have some old garden hose you can cut it to length to fit then slice it open length wise and pop it around the shaft then you can rock and roll without a care in the world. You got all the torque specs?

Hey Uwon, you washing your transmission with 3200 psi ;-)After releasing the 1/2 shaft from the transmission you just pop the old seal out from the center hole with a big screw driver or pry bar. Unfortunately, like most things Porsche, there is a special tool for installing the new seal. The seal fits onto the tool by the center hole against a land which supports the seal evenly as you tap it in place. Coat the seal with Vaseline before installation. If you are careful, you can stick the seal to a flat metal plate with Vaseline, center the seal in its seat and tap the plate to press it in. Alternatively, if you have a friend with a wood lath you could turn a wooden replica of the tool from a very dense hardwood such as rock maple but you will have to know the internal diameter of the seal's center hole to do this. This can be easily measured with calipers on the new seal. After you use your fancy wooden seal press, soak it overnight in Watco, let it air dry for 30 days and you will have a very sturdy, permanent tool.JFP or Loren might also know of an inexpensive aftermarket alternative.

Finally, someone else who grew up at the water park ;-)

Thanx Loren, assuming it is the left rear that is bad this time that will replace all of the like parts. Will find out for sure tomorrow AM. Grumble, grumble, grumble......

JFP, Loren, are the wheel bearings in front the same as the ones in back or are they different parts? The thought occurred to me that I might be the victim of a lot of bad bearings. Two bearings going prematurely is a little more coincidence than I'd like. If they are all the same part and it turns out that I have indeed lost another one I will try to get Porsche to replace them all or at least warranty the remaining two indefinitely. The car now has 16,700 on it.

Wow, who said anything about 3200 psi? My electric washer maxes out at 1250, more than enough to wash a car. You could not work a CV boot off even if you jammed the nozzle right up to it. These washers only produce a lot of force right at the nozzle. It drops off rapidly as you move away from the nozzle. I can comfortably hold my hand indefinitely 6 inches from the nozzle. The wheel bearings are shielded by the rotors so, you can not hit them with a direct stream. I suppose if you had a bearing out and subjected the bearing seal to a direct stream close up you might be able to work water in under the seal but in real life this does not happen. If you think about it you probably subject your car to much higher hydrostatic pressures driving through the rain at 80 mph. If you don't think so, stick your hand out the window and see how it feels! There are industrial washers, usually gasoline driven that are a lot more powerful and too dangerous for home use. They can rip your skin right off at close range. Also, you NEVER use soap in the washer. You just use the washer to rinse the car and use a wash bucket, brush and car shampoo the old fashioned way.JFP, as I am sure you are well aware in your profession, there are nit wits out there that can do just about anything. Like, blasting their CV boots off with an industrial pressure washer set at 3200 psi. That is like using a blow torch to light birthday candles. Today I pulled a 3 inch staple out of a guy's foot. He stapled 4 of his toes together with a pneumatic stapler. He was stapling the sill down in a mobile home. Instead of placing the gun and pulling the trigger this guy liked to hold the trigger down and literally bounce the gun along. As soon as the safety at the nozzle depresses the gun fires. This fellow was holding the sill in place with his foot and he bounced the gun along right into it. One other nice thing about pressure washers. If you pay for your water, you use about 1/2 the volume rinsing your car with a pressure washer as you do with just a garden hose and nozzle. Also, the newer electric washers auto stop when you release the trigger so, you use less electricity and the pump lasts longer and when you fill your wash bucket you get the best suds!

Uwon, I routinely use a power sprayer/pressure washer. This is my 6th 911. I have put over twice as many miles on previous 911s and never lost a wheel bearing and in 25 years of 911 ownership the basic design of the hub, bearing, rotor has not changed. These assemblies are designed to take water exposure. That is why the bearings are "sealed." The only explanations for my cars wheel bearing failures are abuse, poorly designed bearings, bad metallurgy, and any combination of the three. I would have hoped that properly designed and hardened bearings would have been able to handle what ever loads the car was subjected to over it's life span. That is apparently not the case.

You must have a much kinder right foot than the previous owner of my car. It is one thing to go out and enjoy driving fast and another to race like you are Ayrton Senna without regard to the welfare of your machine at all costs. From all that I have seen these machines are not intended for all out racing as they come for routine consumer use. Special versions maybe. But, not the regular street versions. I am afraid that WW has pernanently ruined the mark putting profit above all else.

He bent the left front rim. Rears are OK. I had the car certified so, everything was fixed. Rim, brakes, tires, fluids, accessory belt, spark plugs and alignment. I suspect the Right rear bearing went first because you go around the track counter clockwise. I always thought these cars were tougher. Fortunately, the engine and tranny seem fine. I am going to send some oil off for analysis. I have one more year left on the warranty. So, it either settles down or it gets traded on the Turbo. It is such a cool car. I bought it knowing full well that owner #2 beat the **** out of it. Technically, it should never have gotten certified. Not sure how the dealer worked it's way around that one. Ignorance is bliss.

Well, I have grumbling coming from the rear at wheel rotation rhythm again. 1st time it was the right rear wheel bearing so, I suppose this time it is the left one. When I got the car it had 6100 miles on it. The second owner got it at 5100 miles and tortured the car at the track for 1000 miles. He bent an rim, ripped up the plastic air dams in front of the front wheels and warped the front rotors. Now the car is spitting out wheel bearings. Are the bearings weak in these cars? It is an 06 C4S.

Boy, all this vitriol over badging. 5 minutes with some tape and a putty knife and it is all off. Check out the white 991 Turbo in this issue of Christopherous. COOL CAR.

My wife is far more concerned about going down a back road at 80 mph than she is about the noise level. I guess we are back to the Prius!! Seriously, I sold my 2001 TT because it was too much like driving a Toyota and not enough like driving a 911. If you want quiet get a BMW or even better an Oldsmobile if you don't like beer.

For that kind of money you have to be crazy. Just go online to Fabspeed and get their exhaust for your car. You will loose 15 lb at the back and get great sound. Their stuff is also very well made and the fit is perfect.

Not at all. It is not how fast you go, it is how you go fast. If your first impression when you see a car is,"that, is a COOL CAR." Then you are 95% of the way there. I think the steering is also better in the 997. The new electric system needs some work. If the car was loved and the deal is right for you then go for it. One thing. Nothing is sharper than a nicely detailed black car and nothing is more of a pain in the a-- to keep nicely detailed.

COOL CAR. The Red instruments and seat belts in a black interior are gorgeous. If you love the car GO FOR IT!!! You can do almost anything you want as long as you have the bucks.

jl-c is right. Senile old me forgetting Ohm's law and it's derivatives. But, your starter is still bad an needs to be fixed. So, I would still treat this as two separate issues. Your warranty company can not argue the starter. Fix it first before you torch your battery which probably is not covered under warranty. Then watch the PSM problem. When it faults have your tech take a picture of the computer screen showing the code.

0356kid, Not yet. I have the sensors and new Pilot Super Sports but I still have a 32nd left on the old tires before I swap out. Might as well get the most out of expensive rubber. They are suppose to corner best when they are almost worn out. WEEEE!

My car was on consignment and I had it certified. It is sort of like buying an extended warranty with the security of having a Porsche tech sign off on the car. They will also correct any deficiencies at your expense. Porsche's rules are the car has to be less than 8 years old, have less than 100k miles, and must never have been tracked. I am not 100% sure but I think you can present any such car to a dealership for certification. It could only be good for business. I would check with your local Porsche dealer and ask how they deal with this issue. Also, it never hurts to window shop at the dealers. Look at the colors, interiors and options and get an idea what lights your fire. These cars are an acquired taste. Once you are hooked there is no substitute.

I'd pass. It was not a car that was taken good care of. There is no excuse for a Porsche to require repainting at 80K miles. There is no aftermarket paint that is going to be as durable as the factory job. Carpet fading means the car was parked for prolonged periods in the sun. Plus all the other stuff which taken individually are minor but together they add up to a car that was not loved. You have to know that maintaining these cars is expensive. Even the routine stuff. Just check the price of 9 quarts of Mobile 1 0W 40. Also, if you buy a car less than 8 years old with less than 100K miles you can have the car certified and get a two year warranty which with these cars is huge piece of mind. At one year if the car is doing well have the oil analyzed by Polaris. If the oil is clean and you love the car keep it. If not then you can sell it with the remaining warranty for almost what you paid for it.

Hi rob545, it is leatherworldtech.com. I should have been more specific. My car had worn seat bolsters and a scraped up e brake handle. You would never know. When you sand use 600 grit silicon carbide paper (the black stuff). Use at least three LIGHT coats of dye. The pros air brush the dye on but if you use a light touch with their foam application pad you can do just as well. Otherwise, just follow their instructions. If you can pracitice on an old leather item you will have all the confidence you need when you get to the car. If you are not happy with the result just light sand the area and start over. Leather is very tough. When you sand you are just removing the surface film. 600 grit paper won't touch the leather.

Hi Michelin. The Leather pull is part of the door trim panel. I am not 100% sure but I think you have to buy the whole panel to replace the pull. In any event you are much better off if you first try to repair the leather. You will be surprised how well you can cover minor defects. Go to Leather World online. Don't buy a kit, just order what you need which is their Finish Filler, Leather Prep/cleaner and the dye that matches your color. If you have an old leather whatever you can practice on this would help but you can redo the repair until the cows come home until you are happy with the results just do not contaminate or sand the stitching. I have used these products for years and nobody would know the leather was repaired unless I pointed it out. Only your hairdresser knows for sure!

Jfoxny, 340 amps??? That would melt the car. Maybe you meant 34.0 amps? Remember your average household circuit is 15 amps. My self cleaning electric oven is on a 40 amp circuit. Fix the starter. If the PCM module has an issue it will at some point become obvious and you can shove it down the insurance company's throat. I will gladly help. Please let us know what happens. Experience is the best of all teachers and here we get to share each others experience!

Nice job Lyn. Looks great. We are up to 93 here. About as hot as it gets. I cycled 52 miles. Suffered the last 10. Shake and Bake. I'm going to wash the car as soon as the sun sets. Ah, the Porsche life.

JFP you are preaching to the choir on that one. PIWIS lead a Porsche tech around by the nose on my car and it was only intuition that finally solved the problem. It can not be questioned that experience is the best of all teachers. Like I said before, I am more than happy to leave the white collar stuff to the pros. I have enough fun balancing wheels and changing break pads.

Nothing like German engineering. All these systems are so interconnected you get the domino effect. In my car a faulty PCM made it look as if the PASM, TPMS, Gateway module and the instrument cluster were all faulty. Replaced the PCM and everything worked fine (with a little reprogramming) The dealer replaced the gateway module and the $4000 Yellow instrument cluster before the tech realized that it was the PCM all the time. He figured it out by simply unplugging the PCM. No PIWIS required. I am certainly no expert but If the starter motor is drawing to much then it has a shorted armature or perhaps a bad relay. The starter motor circuit is most definately connected to everything else. For instance if your steering wheel is locked the car will not engage the starter. I would fix the starter motor and see if everything else goes away before you get all wound up with the PSM. Good luck and please let us know what happens.