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Brett968 last won the day on August 2 2018

Brett968 had the most liked content!

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About Brett968

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    Contributing Member
  • Birthday February 26

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  • From
    Auburn, AL
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2004 Cayenne S
    2008 Audi S5
  • Former cars
    2001 911 Turbo<br /><br />
    1994 968<br /><br />
    1973 914-4 2.0<br /><br />
    2001 Audi TT

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  1. What you are showing in your picture matches up with this one as far as I can tell: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/40-ENGINE-Valve_Cover_Gasket_Replacement.doc/images_large/pic18.JPG
  2. Gotcha. I see now that the Gogal-branded CCV is not available from Amazon anymore. Bummer! For people that may read this thread in the future, Polar Bear, Inc. should have the correct valve available--albeit for a few dollars more than the Gogal. The trick is getting the right one. It looks a lot like their EX 007 but you will need to verify! Currently selling for $62.79 with free shipping.
  3. Did you try replacing the CCV first (which, of course, is a part of the compressor)? Just curious...
  4. As far as I know, there are two aftermarket solutions for the diaphragm valve from separate manufacturers: a less expensive diaphragm-only solution from a Russian outfit, and a more complete solution that includes not only the diaphragm but the spring, cap, and internal plastic support. In my experience, the Russian-sourced diaphragm does not work properly as the geometry is not quite correct. I have not tried the other option yet--but it looks to be better from the images I've seen. (I repaired my original diaphragm with adhesive and it's holding for the time being.) You can find either of th
  5. A few relatively easy things that I didn't see on your list: Have you replaced the valve cover gaskets? At this age they are almost certainly rock hard. Check for seeps around the gaskets. These can leak and cause stumble at idle and low loads. Another thing to check is the diaphragm valve for the crankcase vent. These diaphragms are notorious for tearing. It's located underneath a round black plastic cap on the driver's side of the engine towards the front of the vehicle, and is held on by a few tabs. You can inspect the diaphragm by removing this cap--carefully pry it off with a few screwdri
  6. I also tried the deep vac and recharge with new drier. Then I repeated the same steps with a new expansion valve. No dice. My car never blew cold, even on long road trips. Other than that my symptoms mimicked yours fairly closely. Your high side pressures seem low, and your low side pressures seem high. After I repaired the CCV, as I recall my low side pressures were around 20-25 psi tops. Low side pressures with variable displacement compressors tend to be lower than those of older clutched compressors--so you can disregard all those online pressure charts (which are targeted to o
  7. OP, you might want to check out some of my posts on a similar issue I had with my car. Your symptoms match mine quite well. The problem was the compressor control valve (CCV):
  8. I agree with the others. It sounds like they are parts slinging at your expense instead of performing a proper diagnosis. The Motronics version used in these cars has sophisticated algorithms for detecting faults in components such as the MAF and provides "limp-home" modes that should keep the engine running, albeit not optimally. So to answer your question, a bad MAF would not normally exhibit the symptoms you described at all. It is highly unlikely that a bad MAF would kill a DME or that a bad DME would kill a MAF. You should be able to pull the electrical
  9. Are you able to communicate with the "Gateway" controller using Durametrics? It isn't clear to me if your vehicle has the gateway built into the instrument cluster or if it is a separate unit. If you can't communicate with the gateway then I suppose it is safe to assume that the gateway is internal to the instrument cluster on your car. In that case, then what you posted is all the diagnostic info available. I have no idea what the Kenwood CAN interface might look like. Can you find some part number on it that you could google? I'll briefly try to explain the topology o
  10. Even if it is hooked up correctly the radio may have developed a fault that is taking out the CAN line. Is your aftermarket radio interfaced with the steering wheel controls? I would do this. First, check the "Gateway" computer for fault codes. Then -- depending on the fault codes -- pull the stereo and disconnect the CAN lines. You don't have to know which exact wires are the CAN lines, just pull all the connections to the stereo. If your radio uses a separate CAN adapter then be sure to disconnect the factory wiring from that also. After doing this, see if the problem is still pr
  11. Sounds like a CAN communications problem. Check the fault codes stored in the "Gateway" computer. Do you an aftermarket radio by chance? If it is wired incorrectly it could kill the CAN line. Correcting the wiring will rectify the problem in that case.
  12. I feel the same way about my cars. Hopefully it's just a wiring issue somewhere. BTW, the ground for the control side of the relay is the ground for the DME (pins 1&2). The other relevant ground point is the ground for the fuel pumps themselves. The manual isn't very good at spelling out exactly where this is. According to the wiring diagram, the point is MB33 and it is located at the "top left of "C" pillar". However, in the "grounds location" section of the manual it says MB33 is "near center of vehicle". I think RFM's post describes where the actual location is.
  13. No doubt that failure of an unmolested DME is a rare event. It can and does happen though. Has the DME ever been opened for any reason (e.g. chip tuning)? If it came down to it, there is an inexpensive way to replace the DME; just buy a used DME off ebay and copy the immobilizer data from your original DME to the replacement. The only issue is finding someone with the equipment to copy the immobilizer data off of the diagnostic EEPROM. As for the wiring diagram, I don't believe I am allowed to post that here as it is copyrighted material. If you look around you can probably find th
  14. OK, so let's explore the possibility that the fuel relay fault code was not due to you pulling the fuse but that it is indicating some actual fault. I'm assuming that when you say it is still throwing the fuel relay code that this is after erasing the fault codes (i.e. the fault code is returning on the next start attempt after be cleared.) Things to check: Connectivity check between pin 37 (GRN/BLU wire) on DME connector and terminal 85 on the right fuel pump relay The same between pin 65 (GRN/RED wire) on DME connector and terminal 85 of left fuel pump relay If
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