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smackboy1

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Everything posted by smackboy1

  1. smackboy1
    Thanks to the previous posters for the instructions. It's a very simple job, I didn't even have to stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. Here's the passenger (right) rear wheel well panel. There are 3 plastic 10 mm plastic nuts holding it on. Here is the drain with the flap in place. Here is the drain clogged up with about 6 years worth of smegma. Here is the drain after cleaning it out and testing it by pouring water on the cab top. N.B. the water also drains out behind the front wheel well too. I've never done this before. I read the instructions, and cleaned both side in about an hour. Anybody can probably do it in way less than an hour but I was messing around with my camera and had to move the car in and out of the garage and the battery was dead and ... you get the idea.
  2. smackboy1
    If you do a quick search here and on rennlist.com this has been discussed a bunch. But here are the highlights: 1) Get a pre-purchase inspection (PPI). If you use a Porsche dealer they can run the VIN and tell you what factory options the car came with, where it was purchased, and the warranty/TSB repair history. 2) Get a CarFax 3) Look for signs of crash repair e.g. overspray around the interior of the trunk, engine bay, door latches, alignment problems etc. 4) Check for flood/water damage e.g. wire harnesses under the seats, seat rail rust 5) Check for all the manuals, tools, air compressor, spare, hard top. IIRC there should be a car manual, radio manual, service log book, tool bag, jack, air compressor, inflatable spare, headlight tool, hard top tool, security lug tool. You're going to love it. I drive mine all year round in the torrential rain and through the snow.
  3. smackboy1
    What is the labor time required to install the following on a 2002 C4 Cab (all Porsche OEM): Harness roll bar 2X GT3 race seats w/ sub mount bar 2X 6 point harnesses My dealer is offering me a good deal on the parts, but I think the labor estimate of 10 hours is way off. What is your experience? TIA
  4. smackboy1
    I just got a Mityvac to change engine oil and bleed brakes. Can it be used to change transmission oil or FWD differential oil? Does sucking all the oil out of the fill hole make the job any easier or is it six of that and half dozen of the other?
  5. smackboy1
    I am being a bit of a spaz aren't I? Got to take a deep breath :beer: What mods? The only "real" mod I have is the SSK and I had the shop install that for me. The rest of the mods just snapped or screwed in. As for safety equipment, all the tracks around here seem to require fixed roll bars for cabs so I got to do that. The GT3 seats I wanted to get because I took the Skip Barber HPDE and was very distracted sliding around in the OEMs. Do the Pagid pads grip well cold? I drive all year round and I'm fearful of race pads which need to warm up. I wasn't joking about the UOA, was it funny :huh: ? I figure it can give me useful info about how the engine is doing and if I need to decrease the OCI. Thanks.
  6. smackboy1
    Thanks for all the tips so far. As you can tell I don't know jack, so I'm trying to get up to speed. Unfortunately I can't get on a track until I get all my safety equipment sorted. From calling dealers I think there is a backorder on GT3 seats. Is ATE Super Blue Race really that much better than OEM? Is it OK for street use too? How about brake pads? Are OEM fine or is there a better option for combined street/track use? How much new brake fluid do I need for a flush? How much for a bleed? Is there anyway to tell if brake fluid needs to be flushed or bled? I just got a Mityvac w/ brake bleeder. Should I even be messing around with my own brakes? I have never touched any brakes (but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night). How is this for an idea, run the oil in the car and half way through the DE season get a UOA and change the oil depending on the results. My head is starting to hurt. Is there an authoritative book or website where all this information tracked car maintenance information is laid out?
  7. smackboy1
    I want to do maybe 2-4 DEs each year. Other than that the car is a year round weekend driver. What timing/mileage deviations from the regular maintenance schedule should be made? Is there specific before and after DE maintenance to be done, or is it just a matter of shortening time/mileage intervals? I have about 41K on the odo. Oil was changed 6 months ago at 38K (German Castrol Syntec 0W30). 30K service (including brake flush) was performed about 12 months ago at 34K. Coolant, differential and transmission fluid never changed. My brake pads are about 50% so I will probably change those before DE. Before anybody jumps on my sh!t I know I'm running thinner grade than factory recommendations, I wasn't planning to track the car and was experimenting. I plan to change to M1 0W40. Should I change the oil before or after DE? I'm more than a little curious what a before and after UOA of the 0W30 would look like. Thanks.
  8. smackboy1
    Had my RMS replaced last July at 36K (Warranty Direct) and changed out the clutch at the same time. The original clutch was probably OK, but I couldn't pass up the labor savings. Clutch Replacement (no flywheel) $593 parts, $0 labor RMS (no IMS) $32 parts, $1040 labor They also found a valve cover leak that was covered too. No oil change required. I would suggest getting all your parts and labor at 1 dealer to avoid any finger pointing in case of a problem. Maybe you can haggle over the price of the parts. The flywheel is like $1,000 so don't replace that unless it is necessary.
  9. smackboy1
    Pure genius, thanks guys :cheers: What's the Porsche part # for a 2 X 6 :huh:
  10. smackboy1
    Sorry if this a really remedial, but I'm not mechanically inclined. I am about to embark on my 1st oil change. I only have a 2.5 ton floorjack. How do I safely get the car up in the air? How high? Can I just lift the car at 1 corner (which one?)? Or do I need to use jackstands (how many and where)? Do I have to crawl under the car to reach the drain plug and filter or can I just reach under. TIA
  11. smackboy1
    The manual states that the transmission and differential fluids are supposed to be changed at 90K miles and the coolant is never changed. Is it good practice to change out the tranny and diffy oil and coolant after a certain number of years regardless of miles? Can it hurt anything (except my wallet) to prophylactically change these fluids at say 4 year intervals? I only drive on the street, but I have no idea how the car was driven the 4 years the original owner had it.
  12. smackboy1
    It's the same. Sometimes a plastic ruler (or nylon spatula) can help lever out the old mirror. Be careful not to snap the prong.
  13. smackboy1
    Hi Loren, you're up early. I understand that a worn clutch is not a warranty item. I guess what I am trying to ask is whether I should just pay out of pocket and replace the clutch now, even if there is nothing wrong with the clutch, or wait until I have clutch problems. Thanks.
  14. smackboy1
    My car is at the dealer being checked out for possible RMS leak. If the RMS is going to be replaced (under warranty), should I have the clutch replaced at the same time? The car is about 4 y.o.; 36K miles; 1 previous owner (leased); and I drive mostly in the suburbs. The clutch is functioning OK, so this would be purely prophylactic. Is the flywheel a wear and tear item that needs replacement at the same time? How much should this set me back if the RMS will be taken care of under warranty? TIA.
  15. smackboy1
    I have used Autotechnik in Pennington since getting my car in February and they seem pretty good (Had a 30K, tires, B&M SSK, detail and clear bra done there). But I had my PPI done at a dealer. I would recommend getting a PPI done at the dealer because they can look up the VIN and tell you the warranty history of the car, where it was originally purchased, if recalls/TSBs were performed and other things an indy would not have access to. http://www.autotechnik.com/index.cfm
  16. smackboy1
    Here is a photo of the trunk of my 2002 C4 Cab. The extra "lump' is for the AWD. Also on a C4 the spare tire is collapsed (w/ a 12V compressor) and stored underneath the floor of the trunk. If you get a PPI at a Porsche dealer they will be able to run the VIN and confirm all the factory delivered options.
  17. smackboy1
    Thanks for all the help. Much appreciated.
  18. smackboy1
    Yes, I read that DIY, but I'm not too handy with a soldering iron and this install was done on a 2006 997 Carrera S w/ self dim mirrors. I have a 2002 996 Cabrio w/ non-dim mirrors, so I didn't know if all the wiring was the same. Running the wires down the A pillar is not a problem, so I figure that tapping power from the fuse box or center console would be easier.
  19. smackboy1
    Apologies, I know this topic has been covered numerous times, but I am reallly really dense. I'm trying to run the wire to power the V1 mounted behind the rear view mirror. The part I can't figure out is where to jack into a convenient switched power source at the other end. I've read about jacking in at the fuse box on the driver side or tapping unused cell phone wires in the center console, but without photos or a detailed description, I am stumped. Can someone help me? Thanks.
  20. smackboy1
    It's not lubricated from what I can tell, not much anyway. It looks like it just worked its way loose over the miles.
  21. smackboy1
    roblem solved. After tinkering around I figured out that the pin which translates the motion of the actuator to the lever arm which raises the clamshell on the passenger side had come loose and popped out (see photos). Simply had to stick it back in. It seemed to be held in place only by friction. Thanks everybody.
  22. smackboy1
    All of a sudden today the convertible top cover seems to have broken. When I attempt to open or close the convertible top, the cover only swings open on the drivers side, the passenger side doesn't budge, and then the whole thing just grinds to a halt. Looks like this is going to be the first extended warranty experience for my reign of ownership. Has anybody experienced this before so I can get a feel for what to expect?
  23. smackboy1
    Thinking about getting an SSK and noticed there are 2 different ways to shorten the shift throw: 1) the replacement stick shifter type, which includes B&M, Schnell, EVO and the OEM SSK; 2) the transmission mounted plate type (% short throw can be adjusted by moving a screw), which includes TechArt, Ruf and 9ff (B&M used to make one too). I've STFA and both seem to achieve the same result using different means at opposite ends of the shift cables. Can anyone who has used/installed both types tell me the pros and cons of either? From what I can intuit the undercar tranny mounted plate offers adjustability (30%, 40% or 50% throw reduction) and it seems like the install would be simpler (once the car is up in the air) because you don't have to fiddle with disassembling the center console, disconnecting cables, alignment tools and other things that require fine motor skills (which I don't have). Seems it's just a matter of unscrewing some parts on the tranny and screwing in the new parts. Am I wrong? TIA.
  24. smackboy1
    It is 996 424 981 23 VRJ, as confirmed by Gert. Thanks everyone for the help.
  25. smackboy1
    Hi Loren Thanks for the assistance. How sure are you that this is the correct part # for the pictured part? Because I've been asking around and so far I have lots of different answers: Sunset initially came up with 996.424.075.05.FGW ($170), but after talking to them further they think it might be 996-424-981-23-G10 ($399, but not listed in Metropol Blue). Someone on the Rennlist 996 turbo board thinks it is 996-424-981-07-VRJ (MSRP $521). Gert has it pictured on carnewal.com ($328), no part # listed. I am thinking 996.424.075.05.FGW might be the 2001-2002 stock turbo shift knob (see photo) which is the same shift knob as on the regular Carreras. I think in 2003 the Turbo got a different shift know with the "Turbo" inscription.
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