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So I am now master of my gauge cluster. Got it out and fixed the bulb for the voltmeter. But the gauges are still dim. They all light up but around dusk when the lights are on (and turned all the way up), I can hardly see them. What do the green bulbs do? Should I replace both? Do the bulbs dim over time? Can I use any 12v 3w bulb for the green ones, or do I have to by the entire assembly? (they are $20 each)

As always, thanks. Found what I need. But I got nervous that I was going to break something so I put it back together. Will try again at a later date.

Long story short. Yes you can. Maybe have to re route a few wires depending upon seat options.

I have a burnt out voltmeter bulb. Decided to try to fix it today. Followed all the DIY's. Got the gauge cluster out. But now I am stuck. I can no get the back plastic cover off to expose the rest of the light bulbs. Or remove the front dials to get to the back. Can someone point me to the DIY or tell me what I am missing?

1-DONE - keys done. Ordered fob with remote and fob lighted from sunset, keys from keys is the post, and took to dealer and they programmed remotes and washed the car for $77. New fob works great. Valet key works as it should. They removed the other key fob (which I did not have) from the computer. The orginial key only works sometimes. Same way it worked before. Guess I need a new fob for that one also, but I am good for now. 3-seat belt warning chime- I found the problem. It is in the buckle. If I bend it at a right angle it works. Guess I need to replace it. I got an extra one on the seat I bought to work on for practice. I will try to switch them. question - is there a passenger chime ever? Even with a passenger not buckled there is no light. 6 - found new leather OEM seat back on ebay. Now just need to switch it out 9 - dent on trunk DONE Swapped out rear deck lid with one from ebay now car says Carrera instead of Carrera 4 14 - fixed the ash try DONE - if I close it with pressure on the front corner it stays shut. Good enough for me for now. Now that I have so many parts here is the plan. Remove the carpet and both seats and center console. Fix the leather, buckle, and electric up/down on the driver seat. Put it back together without the carpet and see if I can find the leak up front. question - where does the ac drain? That's all for now

Ok. Tackled the ignition switch. Cost $40. Total time, 16 hours. This is just to let you know how repairs go for me. Got home from work at 7. New ignition switch arrived. Read the DIY's and got to work. Moved seat back, disconnected vent under dash. Removed one screw. Could not see the other (blurry from bad eyes) so tried by feel. Stripped the screw. Picked daughters up from dance and took to laser tag. Stopped at Walmart and bought a magnifying glass. Got home and tried again. Stripped screw more. Tried to remove side vent but the torx driver I had would not fit. Got mad and went to bed. Woke up and went to Home Depot and got correct torx driver. Removed side vent. Climbed under dash again and tried again. Now that I could see (magnifying glass and daughter holding the light) I found my screw driver was too small. Went to Home Depot again and got correct screw driver. Still could not get it to fit. Took off fuse panel cover and then obd connector. Then removed seat. Finally got the second screw out. Replaced ignition switch. Put back together. And found a new problem. Carpets damp under drivers feet. Crap. All drains clear and connected. No idea where water is coming from. Oh well. I will add that to the list.

Making progress. Replaced rear deck lid to get rid of dent. Fixed ash tray. Sort of. Took it apart and inspected it and found if I pull the front corner to the rear when closing it closes. Also getting oem keys. I ordered a the fobs from sunset, key heads from keys in the post, and when they arrive go to dealer to program.

I think I know what you are going for, but I don't have an answer. I did find some information since I am in the process of getting new keys I can share. This is replacing the fob on a 996 with the updated one http://www.renntrack.com/forums/showthread.php?917-996-Key-Conversion-Key-Fob-Conversion And this is a 997 2 button cover cheap on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replace-Your-Porsche-2-Button-Key-Head-911-997-No-Programming-Required-NEW-/191098765464?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3APorsche&hash=item2c7e5fc098&vxp=mtr In these posts the pictures of the inside and the chip. It looks to me like it will fit, but I can't say for sure. You are going to have to look through the pics yourself and decide if you want to take the risk.

No. Drivers seat warning chime and passenger seat heater. The driver side heater is perfect. Made my first move today. Ordered a 2 new Fobs from Sunset ($149 for the one with a remote and $35 for one without) + shipping. A key blank was $109 from the factory and do not come with a guarantee. So we talked about keys in the post and she said that they sometimes work, but they use an inferior blank that wears out faster, so I still have not settled on the new blades yet. Still unsure what to do with my key. Will proably have the dealer try to program first and then decide. Two things I learned today. First, I am going to spend $300-400 dollars so I can push a button instead of putting the key in the lock. Man am I lazy. Second, there are lot of remotes on ebay for a lot of money and without the ID they are worthless. How many people get taken by this?

Sounds like a good place to start. I read it just pulls out. Where do you pull from?

OK here goes. 1999 911 Carrera 4 Cab. Had the car since June. Normally I put about 25-30K miles per year on a car. The Porsche has gotten about 5K so far. Various problems such as a deer and a bad IMS needing a rebuild. So now car is back and runs perfect. Now I am left with a million little things to do to get it right and I thought I would chronicle what needs done. I have researched most of the DIY's here so I know for the most part what to do. But any help is always appreciated. I am already $40K into this adventure so there are budget constraints, meaning I don't want to invest another $10K if I don't have to. List of things that NEED done. Nothing List of things that should be done. 1 - second key - I only have one key with a bad remote. I manually lock and unlock the doors. 2 - both visors are missing the flaps so they need replaced 3 - seat belt warning chime - I haven't figured this one yet. It usually never works, but occ the light and the chime sound when I unbuckle the seat belt (or when the temp is below freezing it works all the time) 4 - light behind the voltmeter gauge - again only works when below freezing 5 - ignition switch - again a below freezing problem, but when it is cold the key is hard to turn and the electrics stay on after the key is removed 6 - seats - the leather is perfect but 3 of the 4 levers look like this I bought a used seat and took it apart to see how hard it would be to recover and I don't really want to spend $1000 to fix this 7 - headlights don't match. After the deer I got a new passenger headlight which is crystal clear. the driver one I have polished and restored but it is still yellow 8 - fix passenger air bag - the cover sticks out a lot 9 - fix this dent on the trunk - Body shop wanted $600 so I bought another used rear deck lid and just going to replace, but then the car will say Carrera instead of Carrera 4 10 - repaint/replace the trunk/hood levers and the door handle and other worn silver parts. I think I am going to get a set of black levers from a boxster 11 - fix drivers seat power up/down 12 - passenger heated seat works every third time I get in the car - never flashes - it either works or it doesn't 13 - replace rear roll bar cover piece - parts od the plastic cracked 14 - get a new ashtray - this one won't close Things I want to do 1 - remove CD changer and put in a shelf 2 - install Bluetooth 3 - new wheels - or refinish mine 4 - upgrade to HID headlights Well that is all for now. I am sure the list will get longer.

Is the oil pressure always low? In mine the pressure went up almost all the way at start up. When the engine gets warm at idles goes to between 1 and 2. Then goes up with acceleration. Is yours always low? What did the shop that rebuilt the engine say about the oil pressure?

Manual or tip? For the tip I don't know. For the manual you have to drop the transmission and take it to a shop to have them press out the old mount and press in a new one. However, there are alternatives. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/782771-increase-996-chassis-stability-and-enhance-shifter-feel-and-accuracy.html http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/811134-transmission-mount-urethane-fill-diy.html

Lets start with the basics. Coupe or Cab? Check drains and moldings. How extensive was the repaint?

I think the reason for cartridge type filters in environmental?

Never mind. Got it. And did not break anything.

Well, while my car is in CA getting the engine rebuilt I was bored and decided to work on another project. My rear deck lid on the car in CA has a big dent. Body shop wanted $650 to fix it. So being as cheap as I am, I decided to do it myself. I bought another rear deck lid with spoiler on ebay for $200 and figured it would be an easy swap. I decided to clean and polish the new deck lid today and notice that the spoiler sits uneven and the plastic piece under the spoiler is not secured by its plastic tabs. So I thought I would take it apart. I did not get very far. I think the next step needed it to raise the spoiler but I can't seem to figure out how. Is there a way to make it open without it being on the car? I my brief search I found that I also may need a special tool?

I know there are many opinions on this and I have read all the posts. Over and over again. Not trying to start anything, just looking for opinions in a more fact based forum. Hence the post here. A little history. 99 Carrera 4 Cab. Bought with 37K miles. Had the IMS changed with the LN bearing. During the process discovered the bearing failed, metal in oil, but no engine damage. Decided at that time to just swap the bearing and monitor (against the mechanics advice). Well, 5K miles later metal showing up in oil again. Car is now on its way to CA for an engine rebuild. Discussed the IMS with the mechanic. He uses a standard German bearing as part of the rebuild and has not had any failures in 4 years of rebuilds. This is included in the price. But he will install any bearing I want (at the added cost of the bearing). Should I go with the "eternal" with the roller bearings? Another LN? the Pelican Bearing? His opinion is that the standard bearing is fine as long as the car is driven and oil changed at 5K and always in the normal range. Just looking for opinions.

Finally looking to get another remote for my car and fix the one I have. I think I have it down, but I read posts about replacing the case and transferring the pill. I have a single button remote so that is the only fob I can use, correct? I can not use the fancy one I see Loren posting?

Just another question and an update. Question: Do I need the entire key unit or just start with the $20 switch? Update: So since I got my car the voltmeter light was out. Was planning on getting around to this, eventually. But last night I learned if it less than 0 degrees F, the voltmeter light works also.

Problem #1: Since I got the car, 1999 carrera 4 cab, the seat belt light works once in a while. The light and bell sound about every 10th time I get in the car and don't buckle my seatbelt. The warning light never lights up when I start the car. But if I take off the seat belt, the light and bell will occ go off. Problem #2: When I start the car for the first time of the day, and the temp is below freezing, the key is hard to turn. It's not locked, but feel like it is molasses. If the car does not get completely warm, when I turn it off and take the key out, the engine shuts off, but the electric stuff stays on for 5 seconds, then I hear a click and it shuts off. When the car is warm, keys turns easily and everything shuts off when I take the key out. Now, here is the weird part. If it is really cold, below 20 degrees, key feels like it is in molasses, but when I start the car the eat belt warning light comes on and it bings a few times and the light stays on until I buckle the seat belt. So if I replace the cylinder will it fix everything? I have read the posts on replacing this, but I don't have the typical symptoms of this going bad. Is the seat belt light wired to the cylinder? Just a loose wire?

I am also looking for snows for my 99 C4. Tire rack had a few choices for the 18 inch rims but now every one is sold out. The local guys can't find any either. For the 17's the only winter tires in the sizes needed are Falkens. I could only find them on ebay. I guess the car is going to sit this winter and next year I will start the hunt earlier. I don't think that 17 or 18 makes a difference except the 17's are not as wide and therefore should be better in the snow.

Well, last week jacked up the car and saw the leak. Looked like the steering rack. I then debated about who to do it. I decided on the dealer. It is 40 minutes away and I have no time right now, so they brought me out a Cayenne S hybrid and took my car away. The confrimed the probem. $1200 is the estimate. Rack (reman with warranty), 3 hours labor, alignment, and tax. Just the convenience is worth it.

sweet smelling oily stuff on the garage floor. Front left. Thoughts?

Ok added 1/2 quart and was too low. Added a little more and now way over full. Anyway. Going to see how she does tomorrow then look for leaks. If anyone wants to explain the brake/clutch/power steering hydraulic fluid tie in let me know. I have read a little about it so far and it seems that the brake and clutch share fluid, but so do the clutch and power steering fluid. And the brake and power steering have different fluid.