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Everything posted by gordon24

  1. thanks for the information, perspective and guidance. Fortunately I have time to consider/deliberate. I'll update the forum once I know my way forward.
  2. thank you, are you familiar with any good sources to connect with. I have the shop looking for me as well.
  3. On a good note, I was 2 weeks a way from doing my IMS, Clutch, flywheel and AOS ... saved that money anyway.
  4. I've read a couple of posts describing other's experiences with engine failure. My 02 C4 Cab engine lost power, sent lots of smoke out the back and then went silent while in the center lane of 405 south out of Bellevue on a Friday afternoon; just lovely. I had the car on the side of the road, engine off in about 30 seconds. Quick check at Chris's German and there's water in the cylinders. Seems not to matter if cylinder wall crack or other source, an engine rebuild and/or replace seems only course of action. Given the cost of a factory swap estimated at $36K with refund (~$16k) for core or LN Engineering 3.8 conversion for $15K to $20K the economics just seem out of balance. I'm looking for lower cost options like a used engine or just sell the car as-is. Any members have experience with engine replacements or selling a car with an engine in need of rebuild?
  5. I used the suggestion of cleaning/lubricating the windshield header and it definitely lowered the noise, still chasing others but thank you for offering such a simple fix ...
  6. This is great discussion and I really appreciate the points and perspectives people are sharing. I use my 02 C4S as a daily driver with limited track time. I've built a list of all the cool performance things I could do and, once I added the column up I quickly realized I need a plan. I remind myself I could quickly get a much greater level of performance at a lower cost just simply selling my car and getting into a 996 Turbo. I've rationalized my approach now: 1. Simply enjoy driving a great car everyday to/from work along with weekend trips through the incredible mountain roads here in the NW. 2. Upgrade on failure; my cats went so I put in 200 cell x-design and changed to a BMC air filter ... some torque add and nice exhaust notes, when mufflers fail I'll upgrade those and do headers at the same time. 3. Do the essential maintenance needed for longevity; I've installed the LN Engineering spin on oil filter adapter and shortened my oil change intervals to 5K miles. My next action will be LMS/RMS with clutch, flywheel and AOS as needed. So many different approaches depending on you goals, budget and patience. I've reached the conclusion that as long as I'm not doing something that's just plain dumb it's hard go wrong. For me, having a clear set of priorities has really helped me keep perspective. I've learned so much from this forum since buying my car 18 months and 15K miles ago; my personal thank you to Loren and all the folks that contribute.
  7. This is a great discussion and I'd like to access the TSB's but I'm unsure how to get to them ... I am a contributing member and searched in the members area as well and still no luck. Any ideas where I can find these?
  8. I leave my down for months at a time ... I also use the Raggtop products
  9. Thank you, I'll try this approach tonight and see how I get on with it. I thought there had to be a simple way to get access but a little hesitant to just start prying on things, really appreciate the picture here. Curious, do you think I need to remove the radio or other stuff to get access to the catch as illustrated for #3?
  10. Looking for help on a switch issue. I have an '02 C4 Cab and when trying to put my top down yesterday, the switch just pushed right through whatever is supposed to hold it in place and is now hanging by wires inside the dash. It's visible and with some monkeying around I was able to hold the up position long enough to clear the warning message. I have no idea how to get inside the dash or other way that I can reseat the switch. I also suspect that this happened because some fit/lock failed and as a result may warrant replacing a component to get a good fit again. Any ideas/experiences welcome. thx, Gordon
  11. so awesome and thank you ... this actually looks like something I can do myself ...
  12. The rubber seals that sit on the leading edge of the rear window and seal the gap between rear/front window are old and starting to tear. I'd like to replace both the driver and passenger side seals(?) or gaskets(?) ... whatever they are called. I've not been able to identify these in any of the parts catalogs I've gone through. Is this something you can help me identify a part number for? Thank you, Gordon
  13. I use the LN Engineering spin adapter and the Wix/NAPA gold spin on filter with LN magnetic drain plug ... trying to keep it super simple, highly effective and reasonably priced. I get my filters on Amazon for ~$8.00.
  14. Herogenous, Like you, new to Porsche. I bought my 02 C4 Cab about 15 months ago and have used as a daily driver as well as 6 days at the track lapping with other sport drivers. Love the car, loose sleep over the IMS, will have replaced this winter when I do planned preventive maintenance on my clutch and air-oil separator. I've done more research than I care to think about and candidly all roads lead to replace IMS, use LN Engineering Bearing and use certified shop. Hope this helps and happy driving.
  15. I want to update the thread and thank you for the part numbers. I've replaced the old phone mount with the leatherette cover plate and can't believe how just a simple change like that really improves the look of the interior not to mention giving my wife/daughter a bit more room for their legs. The roll protection cover eliminates a serious eye sore and just leaves me feeling good. Thank you!
  16. sorry guys, I hadn't notice the connect aspect of the post ... I'd be happy to meet up at sometime ... get to know some of the other 996 folks in the area. I'm heading to Pacific Raceway this Friday for an afternoon lapping session if either of you are planning to go let me know ...
  17. I have an 02 C4 Cab with 60,000 miles as well. I've started researching options for suspension refresh/upgrade specifically to support a better on track experience while maintaining a comfortable daily driver. At this point I'm ready to move to "coil over" and have found at least one nice set up that claims to provide good road manners while significantly improving the handling characteristics. A bit pricey so putting money in the piggy bank for now. http://www.roadandtrackbyohlins.com/ http://www.roadandtrackbyohlins.com/products/poz-mn02/ I'm working with the US based team of a german company, FVD Brombacher. The person I deal with is Rhonda and she's very knowledgeable about the products. She's also a "car guy" running her own car on the track. She has a genuine sense of value/priorities in spend depending on what objectives you give her. Happy shopping and let us know what you do and how it works.
  18. second oil change with spin on filter ... all went well and simple to perform ... I'm using the 51042XP filter and works well
  19. I finally closed on this, I went with Sport Catalytic (200 Cell) X-Design manufactured by M&M and sold by FVD. I have not done the mufflers or headers but will look to do so in the coming months. I had the work done at Chris's German Auto in Bellevue. I've driven just 500 miles, no track time yet, and I really like the new cats. I went with the TUV rather than Sport version. The TUV's are quite under steady state but give way to an increasingly pleasant exhaust sounds as you accelerate. They look really cool as well. I did notice an increase in torque, and that the torque curve has moved south by 500 RPM's or so. They look great as well. I'm changing out the air filter this weekend with a high flow type from BMC. I do note though that as read in other blogs, these high flow cats do reduce the torque at lower RPM's and applying throttle from 1200 - 1500 RPMs needs to be gentle or the car bucks. I've adjusted my driving a bit and now down shift before 1500 RPM for around town driving and it seems just fine. All in, I'm really happy with my choice. I found FVD (Rhonda) easy to work with, knowledgable and responsive on my first experience with them.
  20. thanks for the honest response ... I'm still mulling which to go with ... but the clanking/rattling noise i have now is just driving me crazy so I need to decide soon.
  21. love data, the torque curve is impressive. It looks like you would feel this difference 3500 RPM onward, have you found that in your daily driving? On the track?
  22. Kgoetz, Thank you, cost is better than PVD and has the x-design. Does anyone have a sense of the real benefits of the x design vs. factory configuration? Is there a material difference in torque developed mid-range RPM? I see x-design mentioned as key for torque but wanted to hear from drivers that have introduced the x-design on their cars.
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