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pongobaz

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Everything posted by pongobaz

  1. Vacuum around the switches. Sand and grit gets trapped in there and when it rolls around it causes the hood to pop. Ask me how I know :rolleyes:. Try that first before breaking out the tools.
  2. Nope, you're fine and your dealer did the right thing; the wider front make the rolling diameter of the fronts and rears the same since the winter rears have a slightly higher profile (35 vs 30). This keeps your PSM and ABS system happy. I've been using the same size tires for the past 3 winters with no problems. Just replaced the worn rear last month with the same thing once again and now I'm ready for it's fourth winter (if it ever snows).
  3. A quick spray of white lithium grease solved my squeaky pedal 3.5 years ago.
  4. Mine was starting to develop cracks at 80,000Kms. I changed it myself in about 30 mins...very easy and cheap DIY.
  5. Just to follow up on my suggestion to vacuum first, here's a couple of old threads on rennlist where guys had the same problem (and solution): http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-...id-opening.html http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-...-and-a-fix.html
  6. Mine was doing that last summer; it cropped up suddenly one day and was driving me nuts. I did a search and everything from faulty latch to misaligned hood came up. The solution: there was a little bit of grit under the release switch on the driver's door sill; that area gets a lot of dirt dragged on it as your feet rub past getting in and out of the car. Every time I would accelerate, some that sand/grit would roll under the switch just enough to activate it. I took my vacuum and cleaned the area and voila! Fixed. I spoke to a tech at the dealership later and he confirmed that this is pretty common. Try that first before you start spending money on parts & service.
  7. For bugs, use Stoner's Bug and Tar remover. For all plastic lenses, I use Plexus cleaner with a microfibre towel to clean and polish. NEVER use paper towels; they scratch.
  8. this is a very easy install to do. The instructions are pretty clear, but I thought that some of you would appreciate more photos of what's involved. The kit comes with all the hardware and a few spare mounting bolts and nuts. You must provide your own extinguisher (which should come with it's own mounting plate). I really like this kit which like the Brey Kraus unit, mounts to the seat and not to the floor. The unit is compact enough that it doesn't interfere with leg room and it moves along with the seat as well. I prefer to leave it permanently in the car as an added safety feature. 1. get all you parts organized (fire extinguisher is still mounted on old bracket in the photo). You'll need: an allen key set, a 9 mm open wrench and small socket, a 10mm and 11mm wrench, a flat blade screw driver, and a Torx socket set (for seat bolts). 2.move the seat back as far as possible and remove floor mat. 3.remove seat rail covers by slightly lifting tabs with a flat blade screwdriver 4. unbolt the seat rails at all four corners using an E12 Torx socket. front: move the seat forward and remove the back bolts: 5. Tilt seat back forward and then lean the whole seat assembly back towards the rear seat. 6. attach the center brace using the supplied shoulder screw and 1/4 20 nut. Don't fully tighten anything yet. 7. Install the bracket to the brace. Again don't tighten anything down until everything line up. 8. Attach the fire extinguisher mounting bracket using the 6 supplied bolts and nuts. And tighten everything up. 9. Bolt the seat back down and attach your extinguisher. You're done and ready for your next trackday!
  9. Rennline Fire Extinguisher seat mount this is a very easy install to do. The instructions are pretty clear, but I thought that some of you would appreciate more photos of what's involved. The kit comes with all the hardware and a few spare mounting bolts and nuts. You must provide your own extinguisher (which should come with it's own mounting plate). I really like this kit which like the Brey Kraus unit, mounts to the seat and not to the floor. The unit is compact enough that it doesn't interfere with leg room and it moves along with the seat as well. I prefer to leave it permanently in the car as an added safety feature. 1. get all you parts organized (fire extinguisher is still mounted on old bracket in the photo). You'll need: an allen key set, a 9 mm open wrench and small socket, a 10mm and 11mm wrench, a flat blade screw driver, and a Torx socket set (for seat bolts). 2.move the seat back as far as possible and remove floor mat. 3.remove seat rail covers by slightly lifting tabs with a flat blade screwdriver 4. unbolt the seat rails at all four corners using an E12 Torx socket. front: move the seat forward and remove the back bolts: 5. Tilt seat back forward and then lean the whole seat assembly back towards the rear seat. 6. attach the center brace using the supplied shoulder screw and 1/4 20 nut. Don't fully tighten anything yet. 7. Install the bracket to the brace. Again don't tighten anything down until everything line up. 8. Attach the fire extinguisher mounting bracket using the 6 supplied bolts and nuts. And tighten everything up. 9. Bolt the seat back down and attach your extinguisher. You're done and ready for your next trackday! Author pongobaz Category Carrera (996) - Accessories Submitted 04/24/2008 05:30 AM  
  10. Looks cool sitting on the bench maybe, but you can't even see it once it's installed. Instead spend the $1000 on some interior cosmetic upgrades (shifter, ebrake, etc...) that you can see and enjoy.
  11. Also in Toronto. I use Shell 91 instead of the Sunoco 94. Sunoco achieves the 94 rating by adding up to 10% ethanol. When I used it in the past, my tailpipes had lots of sooty buildup. Shell does not put any ethanol in their 91 and its recognized as a Top Tier gasoline.
  12. Don't use Lexol for leather on the dash. It has been specially dried by Porsche to stay shrink resistant but if you rehydrate it Lexol, it will make it too supple and over time, it might begin to come unglued from the base. On the dash, door, pillars, etc... I use Aerospace 303 Protectant since it contains UV blockers. Don't overdo it. Spray it directly on the surface or on a clean applicator or cloth and wipe/buff off any excess. It won't be sticky and attract dust and it won't be shiny like some of the other products out there. I then use Lexol for the seats where I want the leather to be supple. And buy a cheap sunshade or the grossly overpriced Porsche one as a measure of prevention on days when the sun and heat are brutal.
  13. With the UCR region of the PCA, you can use an M or SA 2000, but it's recommend that you get an SA2005 so that you don't risk being excluded from events with other regions. I got a Pyrotect SA2005 full-face from Apex (rennlist sponsor who offers a 10% discount to all rennlisters) for $248 (-10%) included free shipping and a helmet bag and cotton balaclava. Not affiliation, just a satisfied customer.
  14. Just did this upgrade. After reading all the posts, I decided I wanted to challenge myself to doing it to full factory specs without breaking any pieces and using all the screws to put the trim back in. I started with the long piece on the passenger side. First remove the underdash cover (foam) held in place with 3 plastic screws. Then remove the glovebox: There really isn't any need to remove the vent since there is plenty of room back there: With the screws out the piece just pops out: Contort yourself under the dash (move the seat back as far as possible!) and you'll be able to clearly see the screws: Next, remove the instrument cluster by first removing the hazard switch: and the microphone cover: then remove the two screws and the whole assembly pulls off (makes sure to disconnect the cluster in the back (3 plugs: gray, blue and green as wells as the mic and hazard switch) remove the lower "horseshoe" around the steering column (screws are visible once cluster pod is out) and then you have access to the back of the trim pieces on either side of the column. I removed the driver's side vent but I don't think it's really necessary. Got all the pieces off without any damage and installed the new pieces with every single screw: All buttoned up: All in all it took me about two hours from start to finish going slowly and carefully to protect the full leather dash: Use the right tools and take your time!
  15. If you have the same tips as I do, then the center bar of the quad tip tend to get carbon build up as in my picture. I use some Brasso to get them clean (sorry no after pics, but they do look perfect after a good cleaning).
  16. I don't know about the 987/997, but on the 996 you can slide the visors of the stems. It makes it easier and cleaner to work on them.
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