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That's exactly what I need Mike. I haven't a clue whether or not those numbers are even correct, and I haven't been able to get my rear tires to last any longer than 12k miles. That really sucks when you're putting Michelins on there. They cost a fortune. When I looked closely at the printout they gave me, it says "except USA cars' so, I don't even know if those numbers are correct. It just doesn't make sense to me that the wear patterns are this bad. The first Boxster that I had I was able to get twice the miles out of the tires. Mike, you wouldn't happen to have the printout from your last four wheel alignment, would you? Thanks, B
Thanks Mike, that kind of went into what I'm dealing with. But, wasn't very specific. I think I need new upper control arms, but, I just don't know the whole geometry of the rear suspension either. That's also kind of what I am looking for. Looking at the numbers from the alignment tech, is there anything that can be adjusted to stop these tires from wearing out so **** fast. Also, being on a pretty strict budget right now (some health issues that have cut into my business), replacing the whole rear suspension just isn't in the cards right now. I'll do some more looking around though. I thought I had searched everything, but, I missed this one, so, I thank you for bringing it to my attention. B
Hey Folks, I have a 2000 Boxster S and I have 19" wheels on it and I run 275/30zr19 tires on the rear. The last couple of times that I purchased tires I have gone thru them extremely fast. The Michelins that I bought only lasted about 7000 miles, and this last set about 9000 miles. It's really killing me. I get a four wheel alignment every time and they set the rear camber within the so-called Porsche Specs (according to the tire shop) which they say the rear camber specs are supposed to be between -1.8° & -.8°. The alignment tech said that he couldn't adjust the camber angle anymore but, he was within spec at -1.7° on the right and -1.8° on the driver's side rear. This setting is teetering right on the edge of what they say are Porsche specs for my car and there is a noticeable, to the eye, negative camber at the rear. The car runs great, and tracks well. The steering and suspension are tight, and it handles absolutely wonderful, but, I am chewing up the insides of these really expensive tires just too fast in my opinion. So, this brings my question. If the tech is not able to adjust the camber any closer to a neutral setting, what part or parts do I need to replace to allow for the alignment to get closer to -.8° giving less camber to my rear end on both sides? Thanks guys, I appreciate any and all insight into my problem here, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, Brian
I have this very same issue now. (2000 Boxtser S) Since this was over 4 years ago, did you ever come to a conclusion as to what the issue was Jeremy? Mine code is intermittent. The car has a bit of a rough idle at initial startup in the morning, and I can go a couple hundred miles before the 1126 even comes back. Otherwise, the car runs fine. It seems to throw the code when I am cruising on the freeway, under light load, maybe 2500 rpm in 6th gear, maybe 75-80 mph, and then boom, CEL. Any idears? Thx, Brian
This worked fine on my 2000 Boxster S stock radio. That plug is designed to be plugged into the 6-CD Changer location on the back of the head unit. If you also the 6-CD Changer, it won't work, unless you unplug the CD-Changer. You don't really need a CD Changer with an iPhone hooked up though. Then, in order to get sound from your phone, you'll just choose the CD Changer on the menu guide. When I upgraded to the iPhone 7+, I ditched that plug, and am using an FM transmitter, which I like much better anyway, as it's Bluetooth, and, as soon as I get into the car, it automatically engages. That way, with the new phones, I can still charge the phone while driving, and hear the GPS instructions thru the radio, or even better the "COP AHEAD" warnings thru the stereo. B
AGAIN, this is THE ONLY PERSON that talks about this failure. Its from 8-10 years ago. Those folks SELL COMPLETE REBUILT ENGINES. You cannot even buy anything from them except a completely rebuild engine for multiples of tens of thousands of dollars. Try and get some of these great innovations from them, and they'll tell you...... "all our engineered parts find their ways into our completely rebuilt motors, we stopped selling individual components many years ago." If I sold only completely rebuilt engines, I'd probably say the same thing. It amazes me that so so so many people that have no experience keep on sending out the same stuff from 8 to 10 years ago. Like I said, I have a list of success stories, and if anyone wants to hear them, PM me. I cannot personally verify what they say is true, so, I'm not going to link it. I wish everyone else would do the same. Heresay, and links don't help any of us.
Well, I had some long discussions with a few people, that are definitely in the know, and that have personally witnessed the usage of the Aasco Flywheels in hundreds of Porsches, and they've all been OK. If anyone is interested in hearing what they have to say, contact me offline, and I will share their experiences. It appears that most of this information about the M96 engines flying apart all comes from one source only from what I have found, they all reference back to the same sight as referenced here. But, there are many many successful applications out there too. I can personally attest to 60,000 miles of success already across two different cars. Nobody has given me any real science except to say, trust this guy, or trust that guy. I don't want to be a source for anymore info getting out there on the web bagging on these products when my original intent was to find an upgraded clutch to run, not to provide another platform that links to a webpage from 10 years ago. So, I'll just leave this one alone and say, send me a PM if you want some success stories, because they're out there too, and they're from some of the sources mentioned above. Maybe start with the LUK website (manufacturers of the DMF in the Porsches) where they themselves talk about the reasons for developing the DMF in the first place, as a way of dampening driveline vibrations from reaching the driver, in other words, driver comfort, not saving a poorly designed Porsche motor from flying apart. http://www.luk.de/content.luk.de/en/products/clutch_systems_new/zms_new/zms_new.jsp I will however continue to share my experiences as I add to my 100k miles on my Boxster S with Lightened Flywheel, because I will have firsthand knowledge, and everything else I would post of success stories would be secondhand, told to me by others, much like the info above, and I don't want to do that. Brian
I've been sitting hear thinking about this whole issue, and my experiences so far, which have been very good, although, granted, I haven't had any IMS issues either, and that doesn't mean that others haven't. What bothers me about this whole discussion is I don't quite understand how/why a flywheel, bolted to the back of an engine that is, "from the factory, OUT OF BALANCE" actually remedy that situation? It doesn't help that engine "balance" itself. It may help to stop the out of balance issue from radiating into your hand on the shifter, or maybe even the seat of your pants, but, it certainly isn't going to make that engine suddenly become balanced. Any thoughts on that? It doesn't make any sense to me at all. Even with a DMF, you have a significant amount of unsprung weight solidly bolted to the back of the crank. In fact, much more weight than a LWFW has. It would be my thinking that a DMF could be more detrimental to the engine itself than a LWFW could. The part that is sprung is not bolted to the crank, AND, is the lighter third of the DMF, thus stopping the out of balance from traveling downstream to the gear shifter your hand is holding. Upon searching the internet, every single thread that mentioned this goes back to the same old "flat6innovations" website. Clearly, they are preaching to folks with more dollars than sense. Can someone explain this to me, and maybe dummy it down, so I can understand it. How does the DMF balance the core of this unbalanced Porsche engine, and not merely stop it from radiating to my body inside the car through the driveline? Mechanically looking at both setups, to me, its clear the Porsche used the DMF to stop transfer of vibration to the cabin, and that's it. thoughts?
Questions and concerns like yours are always welcome. The cost of the DMF is driven by the limited sources of supply and the relatively small numbers of these engines on the road when compared to something from say Honda or GM. When a manufacturer makes fewer of anything, they have less units to spread fixed costs over, and the parts end up becoming pricey when middleman and retail markups get added in. The result is a heavy iron DMF that costs nearly $1K at retail, which is ridiculous, but it is what we end up with. For those that question Porsche's position on this subject, here is a excerpt from one of several bulletins on the subject of using single mass flywheels in place of the DMF, specifically when using a single mass unit from and RS engine, which is subject to much more stringent engine balancing criteria on a non RS engine: Over the years, there has been considerable speculation about why the DMF was used. The most common opinion is that is was a packaging decision to add the dampening in the bell housing (where there is considerable room) rather than put the dampening mass at the front of the engine as most manufacturer's do. While there is considerable room in front of the crank on a 986, you need to remember that the same engine is used in the 996, but facing the other way around with the crank snout much closer to structural members and the like in the back of the car (something that anyone that has changed water pumps on both a Boxster and a 996 can appreciate). Not wanting to have two different systems for these models, they came up with one solution that would work in both cases, saving a lot of money in the process: pulley clearance.jpg The two most common ways of dealing with dampening on these cars has been to rebalance the rotating assembly and lightweight flywheels (which is obviously not realistic for everyone), or use an after market front pulley assembly which has a dampening system built into it (this one happens to be for a 3.8L. but they also make other models as well): These seem to help with the issue, but their size creates an entirely new set of problems to deal with (even on a Boxster, it is easier to fit one of these to the engine while it is out of the car). Thanks JFP. I actually know Mike at RSS. They're walking distance from my office. I'm gonna get some input from him. B
I will keep everyone abreast of the goings on with my engine. I probably already have at least 60,000 (20,000 on the Boxster before a Lincoln Continental smooshed it, and 40k on the Carerra before divorce got that one, as far as I know, its still running fine) miles on these other two cars with no issues. I'm kind of surprised by the doom and gloom. clutches???? anyone?
Hey guys, I really appreciate all this info. I am somewhat an info junky. So, please don't take this the wrong way, but, I don't think the risk is any greater with a lightened flywheel. I think its actually lessened because I have removed an extra 25 pounds from the crank. I've already bought the thing, and I think we've kind of gotten off of the subject of the original question. I certainly enjoyed reading everything, so, thanks for the responses, I really appreciate them. I was hoping that someone on here has actually run one of these flywheels. You're really missing something special, if you haven't. I've already installed 2 of these, one in a MY01 Carrera and one in a MY99 Base Boxster, and had absolutely no issues over tens of thousands of miles. Its my opinion, and, I know, we all know what opinions are like, right, but, most of what I have heard, read, and experienced is that the DMF is strictly a "comfort" item. Its designed to make the entry level Porsches feel smooth as a baby's bottom while cruising at 80 mph. That's it, really. They separate driveline, and engine vibrations from the cockpit. There are couple of ways of dampening these torsional and vibrational forces. You can double spring the clutch plate itself, (traditional) or you can spring the flywheel (DMF). Porsche has chosen to spring the flywheel, and leave the clutch disk itself, unsprung, in the lower end cars in their stable. In the higher end, racier models, they go with a traditional solid flywheel and a double spring clutch. There's a reason for that, and its delivery of HP to the wheels, as swiftly as possible! In my opinion they both do the exact same thing. I would venture one further to say that there's probably more chance of shaking an engine to death with something that weighs 38 pounds and hangs from a spring than with something that weighs 13 pounds and doesn't. Remember, the heaviest portion of the DMF is still bolted to the crank, "solidly," just like a lightened flywheel would. Sure, the secondary part of it is hung off of springs, but, its the same case with a double sprung clutch. These lightened flywheels are zero balanced, and sure, if I was building a racing engine, that revved to 10,000 RPMs I would definitely take out the rotating mass and have them all balanced together, but, this is a street car, not a race car. Instead of using the solid clutch disk, like Porsche does in the entry level cars, I'll use a sprung clutch. Those springs will be the mode of removing the torsional harmonics, and vibrations of both the engine and the driveline, and will separate them from each other. This technology has been used for decades and decades, in every single car with a manual trans, it works. Is it as efficient at removing all of the same vibrations and driveline noises that a DMF can, NO, of course not. But, I'm certainly not afraid of putting one in my car. I risk nothing more than someone that removes a DMF and puts a new clutch in their car. I would guess I risk less, as I have removed over 25 pounds of rotating mass immediately bolted to the back of the engine. A note about the hp. I am sure that it doesn't change the HP output of the engine, of course, it certainly changes the amount that gets to the wheels. It changes the way that the power gets to the wheels for sure. The engine goes from idle to 7000 rpms much, much faster. That's why they put these into the turbo and GT2 and GT3 cars. If its quick acceleration that you want, this will certainly fill the bill. Anyway, has anyone used one of these on a street car? what clutch did you use? If you have more input on the flywheels, I'd still love to see it, but, I am still holding out for someone that has run a clutch with more clamping force and friction with the Aasco flywheel. Thanks Guys!!!! B
This is the 3rd Aasco Flywheel that I have added to the M96 engine. Aside from a slight rattle while the clutch is not depressed there are no issues at all. The only reason that the DMF is used is COMFORT. Its strictly to stop driveline noises and vibrations so that you have a nice smooth ride. They don't use the DMF in the higher end Turbo, GT3, GT2 cars. because they are "luxury" cars and are marketed to a different clientele. There are springs in the clutch plate to handle the slight harmonics that may be transmitted from the driveline back to the engine. I wouldn't suggest using the stock unsprung clutch. Using a double sprung clutch is a much better way to go. But, which one is my question? I have used both the "stock" sprung, and the "Super" sprung clutch, but, there are so many choices. I just wanted to know what most folks have used. That engine that you just showed didn't fly apart because of a flywheel, that right there is massive catastrophic failure.. Probably threw a rod, and that grenaded the crank. I think that the Aasco flywheel is THE SINGLE BEST UPGRADE one can do to a Boxster, or Carrera. You're unleashing a lot more power than in a Miata. I also have added them to an Old MGB too, and that is a significant upgrade, but, neither one of them has Porsche power. It really changes the off the line power. anyone else on the clutch they like? Thanks, B
It is possible that the switch picked this moment to fail, but that would seem unlikely. I would pull the switch out and unplug it to see if the flashers stop. Absolutely they stop. That's what I did. I removed the switch, and will just use the car over the weekend without turn signals/emergency flashers. I ordered another switch, a used one on eBay for $20. I'll have it on Monday! THE GOOD NEWS THOUGH???? I finally fixed the **** error code 21, the airbag light has been on since I bought the car. I bought a used clockspring on eBay for $59. and it is fixed! YAHOOEY! I am beginning to think that nothing will break as long as I don't fix everything. Seems like every time I fix some little nagging thing, something else breaks. I guess I shouldn't complain.