2000GotBoxS

Thanks SO SO MUCH Loren! I really really appreciate that info. I couldn't seem to find it for some reason. So, I have the Arena Red Metallic, it being a 2000 S model. So, I got water based paint, 84S. Thanks Buddy!!! B

This is exactly right. If you can follow a manual, and are good at mechanical things, then these can be great cars, and very economical. I am twice your age, but, I cut my teeth on little sports cars. My first car at age 17 was a 1967 MGB Roadster, and at the time, the parts supply was very cheap for those cars, but, the parts were horrible. So, I was constantly fixing what either broke, or fell off. The parts for these vintage cars have gotten much better now, and so, I just fix it and forget it. The Porsche Boxster is very similar except parts are expensive. My point is, if I hadn't learned everything I did when I was young, and constantly working on that little sports car, I might not have gained the knowledge that I did. I was never afraid to tackle fixing some people, and I'm patient and extremely methodical and you have to have a way of logically thinking. If you have that, then go for it. I can't speak to labor prices myself, as I fix everything myself. The internet and this site here is great for INFORMATION. I try and devour as much as I can. If you have the right info, I, myself, anyway, don't shy away from tackling an issue. Back in the early 80s, there was zero internet, and knowledge was gained in the first person. I think it is much easier to own an older sports car now, simply because sites like this exist. I myself like fixing and tinkering, and this is my 3rd Porsche, so, I've seen quite a bit in 20 years of owning them. If you can fix the small stuff, and have the patience and know how, these are very economical. If you have to take it to a mechanic every single time your dash board shows a CEL, then, you might want to go with something else. GOOD LUCK!!!!

Hey Folks, Take a look at this video I posted to you tube, What do you think this is? The sound seems to go away when I turn the AC off, but, I have heard it when the AC is off before. It goes away when I step on the gas too. It seems to be there in lower RPMs, and I can't quite place it. It sounds like a sucking or whirring sound. I am not quite sure whether it is coming from the cabin air cleaner, the charcoal canister underneath, or from the fuel tank. Its strange that it goes away when the air is turned off and when I change the RPMs. Its most notable at steady RPMs below 2000. I've never heard it above 2000 rpms. WHen the sound goes away, I am actually reaching into the car and turning the air off. If you listen closely, you can hear it start sucking again, and slowly ramping up to that whirring sound again. Any ideas??

Does anyone know the difference between the color codes 84R and 84S? I have a MY2000 Boxster S and I need to order paint for the front piece. I was in a small fender bender and I have an aftermarket front end on my car and need to get it painted. What is the difference between the 84S and 84R codes? They don't appear to be the same color exactly. Which one would I have on my 2000 Boxster S?? Thanks in Advance, Brian

As a class, 10W-40 oils tend to have higher film strengths than lower weight alternatives, which can afford better engine component protection, and they tend to hold up to high heat/high shear conditions better as well. Oil change intervals stem from two points: Realistically, the ideal time to replace the oil is when the additive package is falling off. This has traditionally been measured by running TBN values on the used oil and trying to catch the oil at a 50% or so fall off in TBN values from that of the virgin oil; but as most people do not regularly or even frequently run used oil analysis, the safe approach is to change the oil more frequently than the factory recommends. The second reason to change the oil more frequently is to allow you to check for the presence of metallic particulates in the drain oil and filter, which would be a sign of something going south. LN's ceramic hybrid bearings are sealed on the shaft side, but open on the flywheel side. This allows the oil mist in the engine to lubricate the bearing. Without a doubt, changing the IMS while you have the car apart would be an excellent idea. Most of the cost of an IMS retrofit is the labor to simply get at it; with the car apart for a clutch, it is the perfect time. I would also update the RMS at the same time, and would suggest doing your AOS as well a it is out in the open with the trans out of the car, and a simple job to replace. Thanks JFP, but, I think you kind of missed on my question, I appreciate the explanation of the oil, but, my question is IF THE IMS IS A SEALED BEARING, WHY WOULD THE TYPE, VISCOSITY or OIL CHANGE INTERVAL HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH IT? On this very forum, multiple people have referenced using 10/40 to help lengthen the life of the IMS Bearing. If its sealed from the engine oil, why would that be true? Its like saying change your engine oil more frequently for longer life span of your wheel bearings. Do you know what I mean? In the case of the LN, if Oil "mist" is hitting it, then I get it, but, the stock bearing is completely sealed, correct? Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to be argumentative, I am just trying to understand. Thanks, B

I have a question for those in the "know" concerning the IMS bearing. If the original is a "sealed" bearing, and is separate from the main engine lubrication system, then why does everyone talk about regular oil change intervals, and using thicker 10/40 motor oil have anything at all to do with IMS condition, whether that condition is good or circumspect? I hear folks talk about that, but, why would it matter? Also, does the LN Engineering IMS replacement not of the sealed type? So that it gets engine oil lubrication? If so, how does the oil get there? just by splashing? there's obviously no oil pumped there. I am reaching 100K miles on my 2000 Boxster S. I routinely check the cam deviation using my durametric and have yet to see any deviation. Also, I have hesitated changing it because I still have the original clutch and have no engine oil leaks in that proximity. But, I get the feeling a new clutch and lightened flywheel are in my near future, so, I thought I'd start thinking replacement of the IMS Bearing too. thoughts? anyone?

I hate responding to these old messages, but, I am experiencing the very same thing. The humming seems to be coming from the front right side. I place it somewhere around the Charcoal Canister. Mine started just recently (MY 2000 986 S) after I added some oil to the crankcase, I had been low on oil, and unfortunately, overfilled it slightly. As soon as I did that, I got a small drip from the engine on the right side, and it drips right onto the exhaust and is quite annoying. I don't know if they are related, and I have not finished tracking down exactly what is leaking. But, strangely, that humming sound from the charcoal canister area started right after this, within a day or so. Any ideas, anyone? Thanks, Brian

Cool, thanks!

With a stethoscope you can easily detect the culprit. It sounds like a bearing is going bad possibly in the alternator, causing the windings to drag and grind on the sides. You'll normally see little flecks of metal nearby. it couls also be the power steering pump, its really hard to tell with that recording, as you are moving around. If you don't have a stethoscope, you can use a very long screwdriver. Place the metal end near the suspected culprit, CAREFULLY, and put your ear to the plastic end. Trust me, you'll hear a bad bearing right away. Good Luck

Yes, everything is closed. I replaced the microswitch at the door lock. The one inside the door itself, not the smaller one on the door card. That has cured all of my window cracking 1/4" each time. I also have an airbag 21 and the horn doesn't work. I'm thinking I may actually have a clock spring issue, but, I haven't dug into that yet. The airbag light has been on since the day I bought it two years ago. Unfortunately, it came on as I was driving home after buying the car. I drove it 3 times before getting it with no light. As I'm driving home with it, I try and push the horn, and nothing happened, and immediately the airbag light came on. The previous owner had replaced the steering wheel with a really nice wooden steering wheel, and he had purchased a new airbag and had complained about having "issues" with it. He always took it to the shop, so, he's not much help with troubleshooting. I have the door cards off putting brand new leather on them, as soon as that is finished, I'm gonna tackle the clock spring and see if that doesn't stop the issue. I just wish that I knew exactly what was supposed to be "open" and what is supposed to show as "closed" on the Durametric "Input Signals" I know that everything has to be shut on the car, but, I was referring to the "Input Signals" when you run the test. Does anyone have a car similar to mine that has a perfectly working central locking system and alarm, and has a printout of what the input signals test shows? Thanks all...... Brian

OK, I cleared all the codes, and I also replaced the microswitch in the passenger door. Now I have no issues with the window. It goes down that 1/4 inch like its supposed to each and every time. I do, however, still have an issue. I have the I32 alarm. 2000 Boxster S. I get the 10 second delay, and then a get double beeps, and an alarm horn honk each and every time that I set the alarm. Let me ask you this Loren or anyone, can a bad fuse on the alarm control unit under the seat cause this? I assumed that if the fuse was broken, that nothing would happen. I get the alarm set, the doors lock, but, there isn't an alarm "hard code" yet. There is an Airbag Code 21 Ignition Circuit Driver, and I have the Airbag Light on the dash. Nothing other than the 21 airbag code (that I have been unable to track down yet). The only thing that the durametric is showing at this point, after a couple of days is the "Blue !" that says there are current fault codes, but, doesn't list anything. What would all of the Alarm I32 Input Signals on the duramteric look like? I put the top up, locked all the doors with one click on the central locking dash switch, and while having the durametric hooked up and me sitting inside the car, I got a read out of all of the input signals. What should the input signals look like in that situation? The status either reads open or closed on about 35 different signals. Thanks everyone, Brian

Hey folks, I have a 2000 Boxster S. I am getting these errors. I get one horn beep when locking the doors and arming the alarm. Everything works fine except sometimes the window on the passenger side doesn't drop the 1/4 inch. Doors lock, alarm arms, key remote unlocks and locks the doors. Could this be the micros switch in the passenger door? What else? Thanks, Brian

I'd love to see that. What about the ones that are bent over? They look like they're plastic wood screws that are heated and bent over. Are you going to reheat them, and bend them straight, and then when done, heat them again and bend them back over? That could possibly work. I'll check that out. Good Idea. I also think that I can recover them without even taking them apart, by using a nylon tool to push the excess leather into the "seams" or grooves on the front. I haven't actually started working on it yet. Still trying to track down a minor alarm issue. I'd love to see pictures of your method. B

Does anyone have a wrecked, or otherwise worthless door panel that I can try to take apart and then put back together? I imagine that it would have to be one that originally had leather, as they are somewhat different from the molded in one piece door panels with the vinyl. I would like to try and disassemble it by grinding the plastic "rivets" apart, and then riveting them back together after recovering them. I don't want to try this on a good panel, but, something that was maybe smashed in an accident, or, is in some way no longer worthy of being on one of our little chariots. I imagine that reupholstering the insides of these cars is going to be a common thing here shortly for many of us that have some of the first Boxsters. I'm willing to post pictures of my results if anyone happens to have a messed up door panel. Thanks, B

You know, that was my very first thought. Having restored an old British two seat roadster before, I am well versed in the grinding of rivets and spot welds and then replacing them. The problem is that there are two different kinds. One of the looks fairly easy to accomplish that, and the other ones, not so much. They almost look like plastic screws that have been pushed over and melted flat. Its a very strange setup, and I'm not really sensing that I can break them apart, and actually be able to re-assemble them. Then, the only way to rivet them back together would result in the nipple part of the rivet poking into the leather on the outside of the panel, and that won't work. I think what I am left with is simply keeping the whole panel assembled and just carefully and painstakingly using plastic tools to push the end of the leather pieces into those "tucked" portions. Maybe that's why they are there in the first place on the leather equipped cars, and they are absent on the vinyl molded pieces. If it wasn't for those seams, then an enormous piece of leather would be required, and that would make those panels even more expensive. When I get to it, I will take lots of pictures and will detail it here. Thanks Folks! any other ideas? pictures maybe? somebody has had to have this done before, these cars are getting to that age now. I took my car to the upholstery shop, they wanted $4200 to do the whole car the way that I wanted. OUCH!

The air bag is in the door frame itself, and is a unit completely separate from the door panel itself. The leather portion is on the door panel. I don't even have to touch the air bag to recover the leather that covers it up, I just need to make sure that the seam is there so the air bag can break thru without ripping the door panel off. That seam is open, I just need to replicate that.

I bought a beautiful 2000 Boxster S a couple of years ago, and now the leather has shrunk in two places and is on its way out in a couple of others. I have purchased two cow hides, one black and one graphite gray and planned to do the door panels and dash myself, and have my local car upholstery guy do the seats. Has anyone ever recovered the door panels with new leather? It appears that the door panels are plastic welded or plastic riveted together. I was hoping that the door panel could be disassembled, but, it doesn't appear the be the case. Has anyone ever done this before? I'd love some tips or tricks to make my life easier, maybe pictures....... At this point, it looks to be a pretty straight forward job, albeit difficult if the panels cannot come apart and be reassembled. Also, is there anyway to remove the cover for the airbag and put it back together? I bought some absolutely beautiful new leather, and it is leaps and bounds better than the original, but, it appears that these are covered in leather first, and THEN assembled and the plastic "rivets" melted after the leather was put on the pieces. Is that true? Any tips or tricks would be appreciated. Thanks, B

Thanks Porsche Nut. ITS STARTED RAINING HERE TOO. Last night, as I was starting to try and pull the plug off of the switch, I decided to give it a couple of whacks, and it WORKED. I managed to open and close it a few times. But, most importantly, I can now close the top and keep the rain out. We are in the process of moving so, the garage is completely filled with packed boxes making parking in the garage impossible. So, since I didn't do this "hack." since I managed to get the switch functioning again, I would imagine that my "PARK" light would stay on all the time, if I did indeed jumper those two wires. Thanks again!

Hi Folks, I have a 2000 Porsche Boxster S. I have a question. I am stuck with my top down, and the Emergency Brake Switch just went caput on me. It is supposed to rain here before I will be able to get one ordered up and shipped to me. Nobody local carries it. If I remove the switch and the wires, and temporarily connect them together, will I be able to operate the convertible top? I am 99% sure that it is the parking brake switch, as the light on the dash no longer works, and my top is not working. Everything else is in good shape from what I can see. I have read all about the hacks on here, and that's not really something I want to dive into, and the parking brake switch is pretty darned cheap, I just can't get one and rain is forecast. Can anyone help me in this situation? I imagine it to be just like any other switch, it breaks the current between two wires, and when the e-brake is in the down position, the top will not open because the circuit is broken (open), so, when the brake is pulled the plunger goes up and connects the wires, right? So, connecting the two together, should allow me to open and close the top! IS MY THINKING CORRECT?? Thanks in advance folks Brian for almost always sunny southern california, but, soon to be raining on my car california at the moment.

Apparently, one of the hoses was knocked loose as I put the plastic wheel well cover back in place. The noise is gone, and the new AC hard line is installed and the AC works, and blows at about 42 degrees, and the carbon canister is no longer making that annoying noise. It was the canister with the three hoses up on the top, and it was the outermost (against the outside fender) hose that had worked loose. What a mess that board that I ran over ended up causing. But, its all fixed now! Thanks Jager for the comment.

Well, its coming from the right front wheel well. I think that something may be loose, I just removed the hoses and reinserted all of them. We'll see how it goes. I have never heard these sounds before. I removed the carbon canister to R&R an AC line, and when I put everything back together, it started making a noise like a vacuum pump trying to pump up a vacuum. That's the best I can describe it. I have never heard this sound in either of my 986s or 996. Its definitely coming from the carbon canister tho. We'll see what happens now, I am getting ready to restart it now. I'll keep you posted. Thanks, B

Hi There Folks, I recently had to remove my carbon canister from my 2000 Boxster S (3.2L) because I had to remove & replace a smashed AC line running from the front to the rear on the passenger side. This required R&R of the carbon canister to access the line. Upon starting the car back up I am hearing quite a bit of "popping" coming from the canister location. It sounds just like a vacuum pump trying to create a vacuum in a system. Is this normal? Will it go away? I haven't thrown any codes, and the car is running just fine. Obviously, any vacuum that would be in that system was totally lost when I disconnected all of the hoses in order to remove the canister. Is it trying to build back up a vacuum in the system? I don't believe I connected anything incorrectly. Any thoughts? Ideas? Thanks in advance everyone, I appreciate your help. Brian

Thanks Ahsai, Actually, I just answered my own question. Once I removed the carbon canister that is shoved into that inner fender cavity on the passenger side, then the clamp that holds the AC Line is easily undone, and the line can be removed fairly easily. There are three hoses that are attached to the carbon canister that have the pinch type release mechanisms on them. These are pretty difficult to get to, as I have rather large hands, but, I did manage to wiggle things around and got them undone. With a couple quick pulls on the carbon canister, towards the front of the car, it comes out of its slots at the passenger door hinge, and pulls straight out. Once its removed, the rest is very straight forward. Thanks for your help. If anyone else ever has to remove and replace this hose, its really not that difficult once you gain access to it. Thanks again. Brian

Hey Thanks Ahsai, The only reason I have shied away from a repair in that manner is two-fold. Firstly, whatever I hit, severely smashed the piping. There really isn't a hole, per se, just an area that is about 5 inches long that has completely smashed closed. My first thought was to cut the affected area out, and make some kind of aluminum sleeve and do just what you're suggesting. Unfortunately, I would then have to heat it in place. Also, I would have to move it quite a bit to fit the sleeve into place. That I achievable by moving the back out back, but, then I would have to heat the whole thing in place, while its resting up against the bottom of the car, and well, that creates other obvious issues. Its a good idea, and it was also my first choice, I just don't know if its worth the heating risk that close to the bottom of the car.

2000 Boxster S Hey Guys, Has anyone ever replaced the AC hard line (Larger Diameter Tube), the metal tubing that runs from the engine (compressor) to the front trunk compartment, and the service access points, via the underside of the car on the passenger side? I recently picked up a very unfortunate fatal dent in the larger diameter tube, Porsche Part No. 996 573 091 01 ??? I ordered the new part and had it shipped to me (NOT cheap) and I pulled off the passenger side front wheel well cover and, man oh man, do they have that thing wiggled in among a bunch of crap. Porsche has used every nook and cranny to shove components, and this little cavity is full of stuff, making R&R much more complex than I was hoping. Its definitely not above my skill level, I'm am hoping for some "wiggle" tips, or movements of the piping that .will facilitate easy replacement. The tubing has more bends in it than a kid with scoliosis has in his backbone. Is there any EASY way to get this thing, not only out, but, back in. I could easily cut the old hard line, but, that still leaves installation. I am hoping that removal of the fuel filler components, and the myriad of vacuum lines is not necessary, but, am not holding my breath. Any tips? tricks? secrets? that I am missing? Thanks in advance for any help!