zegypt

Also, I would call Sunset Porsche and describe what you're experiencing.... Phone: 1-800-346-0182

I just fixed a similar problem. My driver's window would come down (about half an inch) if I opened the door from the interior handle; it would come down if I opened the door with the exterior handle, but it would immediately rise again once I released the exterior handle. If that is what's happening, then you need to replace the door latch (which contains the switch that controls that feature). I bought the part from Sunset Porsche for about $87, but it is a real pain to install. You will need to take apart the door panel, and I found that you also have to take the door handle apart as well in order to align the lock "arm" with the latch so that your key will open and close the door (Loren can provide you with the instructions). The passenger door does not have a key lock so it should be more simple to install, but I still think you need to take apart the handle in order to unlatch/attach the necessary parts. If you're handy, you should be able to do it yourself. Otherwise, I was quoted $600 to replace it at my local Porsche dealer.

The car was not tilted; I watched him fill it until it started to spill out, so I don't know what to tell you... Well, then only one of 2 things could have happened. He didn't put in 5 liters or he used a hole higher in the transmission to fill it through. Believe me, if you had 2 extra liters of lube in the tranny, you would feel it in the sluggishness when shifting and driving, especialy when cold and will destroy the synco's prematurely. I would check it out. Remove the correct fill plug and if nothing comes out, you have less than 3 liters in it. He filled it until it started spilling out; I saw him put in three liters using a machine/pump, then I thought I saw him add two more until the oil started to spill out of the fill hole. Of course, I could be wrong. Needless to say, if the tranmission oil wasn't low, then the reason why it is shifting so well now must be due to the Royal Purple.

You cannot fit more than 3 liters in the tranny unless the car is tilted to the right. If he did in fact put 5 liters in it somehow, better get it drained soon or you WILL have some severve tranny problems down the road.. The car was not tilted; I watched him fill it until it started to spill out, so I don't know what to tell you...

I bought my 2002 Carrera 2 with 60,000 miles this year which is my daily driver. Although it was shifting perfectly when I got it, I decided to have the transmission oil changed as a precautionary measure even though the service should be done at 90,000 miles. The mechanic who changed the oil (former Porsche dealer technician), indicated the oil looked "fine" when it was drained and that it showed no evidence of metal from the gears. However, I started having shifting issues soon after having this service done. Specifically, when the car is cold, after backing out of my garage or parking space then engage in 1st gear for the first time, I almost always experience a shudder/bucking of the clutch (as if I am about to stall the car) that lasts for a second or two. In addition, also when the car is cold, shifting into first and second gears was a little "difficult" but loosens up after the car warms up (this is similar to this post: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;hl=bucking). Last week, I had a local shop change my transmission oil again (at 74,000 miles) using Royal Purple Maxgear transaxle fluid (75W90). The car is now shifting very well with no shudder/bucking in first gear and no difficulty shifting into first or second gear when cold. In addition, the car is shifting amazingly smoothly now. The difference is remarkable. Possible explanation: I do think that the Royal Purple oil made a difference. However, I also think that the problem may have been caused by under filling the transmission oil. The transmission oil capacity listed under the DIY section for the Carrera 996 is 2.7 liters, which should be the capacity when the oil starts dripping out of the fill hole. I suspect the Porsche technician I previously used only used this recommended amount (2.7 to 3 liters). But the technician I used last week appeared to use as much as 5 liters of transmission oil until the oil started dripping out of the fill hole. The key is to keep on filling the transmission with oil until it starts dripping out of the fill hole. Otherwise, you may be under filling the transmission which may be the cause of the problems that I (and apparently others) have experienced. Lastly, I do think that Royal Purple Maxgear transaxle fluid (75W90) is definitely a worthwhile product that I would recommend using if you are experiencing similar problems to what I just described.

I did my research on extended warranties before buying my 2002 C2 earlier this year, and based on what I read, you should not buy one. Repairs during the coverage period would rarely equal the cost of expensive extended warranties, and, generally speaking, insurance companies will do all they can to avoid paying out on the policy because of carefully-worded exclusions. If I were you, I would do your homework on the particular car you plan on buying (obtain a car fax report, check maintenance records, and have it checked by a mechanic) and avoid the extended warranty....

It could be bad gas, but this has happened to me as well for another reason and it was an easy fix. I just cleaned the throttle body (with carb cleaner) and the MAF (with non-residue electronics cleaner) and my 2002 C2 felt great with even throttle response throughout the power range with no fluttering. These are cheap maintenance items that should be done regardless.... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...hl=maf++cleaner http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...le++body++clean http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...le++body++clean

I have a 2002 C2 and I love it, even though I do think the C4S looks great. But if you go by what most reviewers say, including the British Top Gear show, they typically agree that the C2 is the Carrera they'd buy.

UPDATE: I installed the BMC filter four months ago. I immediately felt that the car was a bit louder, and coupled with cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensor, my C2 appeared to be more powerful and responsive. Shortly thereafter, I did start to feel some hesitation, which started to get worse recently. I decided to clean the MAF sensor again, and I once again recoved the power and responsiveness I had gained earlier. My conclusion is that even though I did not have a CEL come on, my MAF sensor was affected by the oil from the BMC filter and, as a precautionary measure, it would be wise to clean the MAF sensor after installing a BMC or K&N filter after driving with it for a period of time (whether hesistation is felt or not). My BMC filter was very lightly oiled, but I suspect reminants of the oil still got onto the sensor. My C2 now drives very smoothly with even power throughtout the RPM range....I am very happy.

I installed mine on the dash, placing it behind the speaker (passenger side). The antenna is relatively small and colored black, so it really doesn't show much. I'm pretty anal, and it doesn't bother me at all. Also, I wedged the wire between the rubber of the door seal to the seem of the dash, then ran the wire in the seem across the bottom of the glove box right to the stereo. Easy and hidden.

Ok, it's been a little over a week since I installed the BMC filter. It came lightly oiled and it didn't affect my MAF at all. You can definitely sense that the sound of the engine is louder now, and, coupled with cleaning the throttle body and the MAF, the car does feel appreciably more powerful with much better throttle response. If you have significant mileage on the car, I would definitely recommend cleaning the throttle body. That alone improved the car's responsiveness and smoothness of power

So, here's what I ended up doing: I removed the resonator and modified the airbox (thanks to Izzy's post), added the Schnell cold intake hose, cleaned the MAF using electrical solvent, and thoroughly cleaned the throttle body by removing it and using Gumout Carb cleaner (as explained by Loren on other threads). The car seems to be running much more smoothly now, idles beautifully with great throttle response and even power throughout. Concerning filters: it is pretty clear that K&N filters improves air flow, improves sound, but doesn't filter as well as OEM paper filters, but does that really matter? I spoke with a service advisor at Newport Beach Porsche, and asked him about his thoughts on K&N filters. He actually recommended using it because of the increased air flow, but recommended washing it first and lightly oiling it to prevent problems with the MAF (they come over-oiled). Instead, I prefer Loren's recommendation of wrapping it in newspaper overnight to absorb the excess oil. I also asked if I should be worried about the extra dirt that the K&N filters allowed through (as compared with the OEM paper filter), and he said that since so many Porsche owners have been using it with no problems (beyond the oil screwing up the MAF), that he felt using the K&N filter wouldn't hurt the engine and recommended that I go for it. I believe that K&N and BMC are pretty similar filters (high-flow and uses oil on cotton), but BMC was recommended by Loren because of its use by Porsche race cars, so I opted for the BMC over K&N. I found a place on Ebay that sells the BMC filter at the very reasonable price of $49.99 + $10.99 shipping (supposed to be $120 on the BMC website), so I just ordered it and I suspect that at the very least it will improve intake sound and may increase HP and gas mileage by a marginal amount. In case anyone was wondering, here where I bought the BMC filter: http://www.luxwheelsandaccessories.com 1-888-438-4649 Thanks to everyone for their opinions; this thread has been very helpful........

Visually, I think the BMC and K&N look pretty similar; do you know how they are different? Did you notice any difference in gas mileage with the BMC filter? Of course, a better sound may be enough reason to buy it regardless of whether there is a hp/gas mileage improvement.

The Fabspeed airbox mod wouild be a better bet. It removes the muffler inside the airbox and gives you better sound. No noticeable increase in power though (I know because I've fitted them to both my old 3.4 and current 3.6). I would also stay with the standard Porsche air filter. On a standard car, these are as good as K&N etc. if they are replaced regularly (paper filters clog up more quickly and their performance goes off noticeably). The upside is they cannot contaminate your MAF sensor as oiled filters can. Ian W P.S. The Fabspeed airbox mods sound superb on the 3.4 and less so on the 3.6. They also sound dire with the PSE as the sounds produced by each clash horribly. Sounds very good with Fabspeed mufflers though. I believe Izzy's air box modification does remove the muffler and thus creates a better sound similar to Fabspeed's setup.

After reading posts here, I ordered the Schnell air intake hose and I plan on performing the Intake Air Box Modification thanks to Izzy (http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6422&hl=schnell). At the very least I'd like the benefit of better sound even if I can't feel a difference in power. I also know many here have added aftermarket performance air filters, such as K&N, and I'd like to know what people think of them. Did you experience an increase in power, improved gas mileage, or any other appreciable benefits? Were any problems experienced with a new air filter? I think squeezing out a few extra horses and better gas mileage would be great, but I am skeptical. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.....

Apparently Porsche offers them, as well as Britax-Romer... http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesands...pment/n36/n103/ http://www.daddytypes.com/archive/2004/10/...e_car_seats.php

Loren....I would also like to know the instructions on how to remove the headliner from a 2002 C2....mine recently developed a rattle as well. I figure I'll be able to take apart the entire car soon.......