SPR

I understand the rationale. However I find that when the dealer bled my system after I had a clutch put in, and subsequent to that when I complained about it. I did a better job when I did it myself afterward. I always bleed the clutch line though. Dunno

K will check it out. Thanks.

gotcha. Thanks. The fans do kick on, but I don't know about a bad compressor bearing. Any idicia of this. i.e. run with it on and listen or look for something? Thanks.

hmm. Mine has a gross amount of drag. Loren is this normal and is there a way to diagnosis this????

another concern I have is how much of a drag the AC has when I drive the car and turn it on. It is grossly noticeable. Further it makes the clutch engagement much much different. Is this normal?

From a few days ago, when I lock or unlock my car the locks now are very quiet. They unlock the car just fine, but I was used to hearing them loudly go thunk, thunk. Now I cannot really even hear them make any noise hardly. Also I have been running different tranny fluid- supposedly the gt3 fluid, it shifts great but I have noticed I can always feel the gears when changing gears, there is seemingly no cushion to inhibit the feeling or whatever, cause for concern? Lastly, anyone have ps2 tires? Is it me or does it seem that they like more pressure than others/ they have squirmy sidewalls? I am running 36/40 and the rears squish around corners. Further even at normal pressure in the fronts the car really likes to move around on the grooved freeway at 80+. I find myself making adjustments a lot and it's annoying.

I am surprised one of you guys hasn't looked into the cd control interfaces and used the cd changer hookup to change tracks on the ipod. I really wouldn't think it would be all too hard. Just find the cheapest interface and take it apart and wire it to the cd changer cable no?

I believe there is a right up with this using a tip wheel and it's in one of the boxter forums?? I thought about doing it too as it would be clutch to be able to turn it up or down, and change tracks without leaning over.

Pretty neat. So it owuld seem then that the only real benefit of the telephone box is the remote display routing, but concieveably this too could be wired through the telephone jack as well. Very cool to know that you are not limited by the HUGE size of that module! I think I actually might redo my install. (I tapped off the phone plug in pass. compartment), as the cable running along the pass a pillar sometimes likes to show itself, however I am running the remote display so I would still have a cable running anyways albeit smaller than the phone cable. hmmmm. Nice write up.

I would think too that the voltage regulator maybe the problem but unless I am mistaken new cars don't have those anymore. I will have to check and see the ac deal and other things. I always not that when I initially flick the litronics on the amp meter goes down about 1/4" and comes up. I also have a pretty hefty JL amp in the boot that I am sure likes to eat juice based off how warm that thing gets.

Out of curiosity regarding batteries. I notice when I first start the car, my V one display is normal then dims, then normal then dims. I seen this problem for some time first noting the temp display for the AC doing the dimming thing. I start driving and it's fine, probably supplemented by the alternator. Does this mean I need a new battery? I don't know how old it is. Thanks.

I will depending on how this guy deals with it I guess. He seem seems to just sell random parts so I would think it would be doubtful it would occur again. I guess if Loren wants it then I will without thought. Sean

Thanks I posted in the becker board and they said the same The seller misreperesented that it would work with the earlier years NON- most. I emailed him and have yet to get a reply. Ah the fun huh? Do you think it would be worth sending to becker to have them check it out? It jsut does nothing and I took it apart and the one tray was out in the player with a cd in it and had to remove everything. The mechanism seems jammed and I could not get anything to move freely. This has happened once before and I was able some how to undue the jam. Now I could not free the mechanism Ideas?

my becker 2660 silverstone died. I picked a new one up ebay it's a cdc4 but it has different connectors, can I use an adapter? It appears that the cdc4 is a MOST type changer with optical connectors anone confirm one way or the other? I bought it off ebay and it was represented to work for my year 99, so I can return it as such. Thanks Sean

do you have the exact sizes etc. on the tow pvc pieces? thanks. The reciept if you have it would prob say the items best so someone may pick up the same without multiple trips

Use an electronics contact cleaner that leaves no residue. Make absolutely sure it says on the can that it is plastic safe or else it will gooify it and you will have to buy a new one

Hey guys I picked up a set of new bulbs 6.50 at "the zone". It was in fact a dead bulb. It was interesting because by sight you could not tell that the filament was disconected Thanks!

Love the tornado comment. BTW you don't damage the MAF as you can clean it. I do it frequently :)

My car has been idling poorly lately, so I cleaned the following the carb cleaner: ICV, throttle body/blade inside and behind, holes for ICV on TB. It didn't seem that dirty but did leave black carbon onto the rag. Next I cleaned the MAF with the special electrical cleaner. I also inspected the BMC filter and it was a little dirty but not bad. I had a new stock one so I tossed it in there just for the hell of it to see if the BMC made a difference or whatever. I previously taped up the holes on the bottom of the airbox to give the intake cooler air and not hot air from the engine. I believe this was a bad idea after all was said and done - the test drive- I also for the hell of it checked the coolant tank. It was actually a little low and I happened to have 1qt. of the Porsche coolant so I tossed it in there. I really wonder why the antifreze level was low? I replaced the coolant tank about a year ago and didn't really bleed the system that much just a 100 mile drive with the flap up. The other concern was that I had to have my heads time certed when the bolts broke off. - A possible inference is that there is a crack or leak in the head from which resulting in the coolant loss, but the car has been running fine otherwise so I cannot say. The start: The car took a while to catch while starting because of the residual carb cleaner in the intake- no big deal. It was wierd only hearing the exhaust instead of also hearing the loud sucking the bmc makes -ssssssss (after the air pump turned off) The car NOW idles great. Before it would go idle, idle, idle, dip, idle now it is constant with no dip, and more notably the idle is infinitely smoother now. I cannot say that the smoother idles isn't a combination of all of the factors but the result is great. I changed the bmc out to the stock to see if the bmc made a noticeable difference or not. My impressions upon driving I let the car warm up and then I jumped on the freeway and immediately noticed how much SMOOTHER the car ran throughout the RPM It was a lot more linear and pulled great to redline. IT also seemed to rev to readline significantly faster if you can believe that! I ran it through the gears and I was pretty impressed to say the least. What I really found is that, while the BMC maybe gives a couple of ponies and maybe because I untaped the holes in the airbox it now sucks more air- the end result is that the car has significantly more torque now! I don't know if the ecu like the stock filter better or holes or anything else I did but the car has not only more torque across the board but it has more LOWER This feeling was the same when I changed the stock exhaust to B&B headers- The car pulled significantly better through the rpm and had more torque lower A huge notable imporvement again back to the idle: The car is MUCH easier to drive not only from a start but THROUGH the gearchanges because it's smoother. The VERY intersting thing with the idle is that before when I say put in the clutch from driving to stop at a light, the rpm would always do a weird pause before returning to the static idle Likely this was the not so great hand-off to the ICV. Now it drops right on down without pause! It makes it soooo much sooother it's rediculous. Needless to say I am stoked! The car has more torque all around, is smoother all around, idles better, is easier to drive both upshifts and downshift rev mathcing is better, and the handoff to the icv at a light is unnoticable!!! wooo hooo! :thumbup:

So then assuming what you just wrote in a non PSM can you could just pull the abs fuse and then turn the car on and bleed the system?

what were youre symptoms exaclty before for other's diagnosis?

The changer only has 2 connectors the one round one with the power and control and then the rca out one. I will swap out the bulb and see if it's just that. Hopefully it is :) Swap the left and right bulbs. For instance, sometimes a break in the filament is not (easily) visible to the naked eye. If the problem follows the bulb, then you know (what Loren said); if not, carefully check the socket for a detached wire, bent contact, etc. --Brian <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hey Loren do you know what pins give what? My cd changer died and appears to be completely dead. I took it apart to remove the cartridge. I have done this once before and there was something just stuck inside the changer- improper operation. In any event do you know if the changer gets a constant volatage? I want to check the cable and rule out the source. Thanks. Sean Also I did the headlight amber removal from my litronics. However when I put my drivers side back in, the turn signal isn't working. It appeared that the bulb looked ok however. I have taken it out and back a couple of times to no avail, ideas? Thanks Sean

So I did the orange removal mod today. The instructions other than the use of the soldering iron and the protection of the bulb housing stink, so I will post the best way I found to do it with minimally scratching the reflector inside- very easy to do. There are really two methods that I did for removal. The first was to burn out the orange section in half. (It is like a U channel and I slit it across leaving a top and bottom. Make sure to do it all the way around. From here you can grab the bottom section from one of the corners and yank it out while twisting with a set of needle nose pliers (large). I got both out in one piece. I then tried doing the same technique along with cutting the corners of the U, up and down out, which if you have the patients should have a better result and less scratching of the inner reflector. The results are the same and came out fine either way if you take your time. Also when I put the lights back in test all lights turn, headlight, and fog, becasue my left turnsignal wasn't engaged all the way. Aslo after clicking them in it seems like the tops of the headlights sit down a bit below the fender even though they are in all the way- normal? It appears that is the only way as there are the tracks, and locks. BTW I had to lock and unlock the car to allow the lights to go in and out, unless i am nutz there is a lock on them too so you can't steal them??? In any event advice for reinsertion- on the outside of the units is a stick that slides in a grove and makes the alignment and insertion simple to go back in- make sure your locks are oriented the right way and that the car is unlocked.

dunno on the pcm1 but it should say in the manual for my tp you just hold down the note key.