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Phil_D

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Everything posted by Phil_D

  1. Just a thought, but did you get the front control module programmed correctly? I had a faulty front control module (after polishing the headlights) that threw all sorts of codes and messages. I replaced it with a new one and it was even worse than before, as the module needed to be programmed for my vehicle. I tried doing this with Durametric Pro and it still caused problems. In the end I put the original module back in, cleared all the codes, and it's been fine ever since.
  2. My oil pressure runs at 5 bar all the time I'm moving, drops to about 3 bar at idle after it is fully warmed up. Nothing wrong with healthy oil pressure. As long as you are doing regular maintenance I really don't see a problem. I run my oil at the top level mark but if it was over that I'd drain a little out.
  3. No, but I don not think there is any fix for it, other than a new cluster.
  4. X2 In just a few autocross sessions I learned so much about the limits of the car, and unlike on the track, when you find the limits it usually results in nothing more than a spin out. For autocross I turn PSM off. On the street I leave it on, but I can say for certain that if you push it hard PSM will not stop the vehicle getting out of shape.
  5. I have interior LED bulbs, the only one that throws a message is the frunk LED. Do you have the vehicle in reverse when checking it? If so put it in neutral and try it. If it comes back as soon as you clear it then it's a persistent problem and always there. Could be a control module going bad.
  6. A quick update. Had all six tube seals and plug seals replaced. $50 in parts, a whole lot more in labor! Had the AOS replaced at the same time, as the motor was out of the vehicle and it seemed like a good time to change it.
  7. I replaced the cluster as the numbering on the gauges was becoming all blurred and faded. Never seen it happen before. It was easier and cheaper to buy a used cluster and drop it in. I did have to turn the Sport Chrono on with Durametric Pro, but don't see any settings in Durametric for Sport Mode. At one point I did put the original cluster back in to see if Sport Mode would start working again as I also thought it maybe to do with the cluster, but it still didn't work. Thanks
  8. A couple of months ago the Sport Mode button on my 2005 C2 997.1 MT stopped working. When you press it the light does not come on and Sport Mode is definitely not active. I rarely use it, so don't really worry about it, but I would like to get it working again at some point. I don't know exactly when it happened as I rarely use it, but it was around the time I did a few things. Replaced the instrument cluster, IDP plenum, and also had a new clutch and LN IMS bearing installed. I had to program some things in the new instrument cluster with my Durametric Pro, like turning on Sport Chrono, and at first thought it was related to the cluster programming, but I put the original cluster back in and Sport Mode still did not work. I have an EVOMSit tune, but it stopped working before the tune was installed. I've looked through all coding available in different modules, but don't see anything that could turn it on or off. I see no codes or errors. Any ideas, thoughts, etc? Thanks for any help.
  9. I am not the first owner of this vehicle, but from the service history I have, the cam covers have never been off. I will post an update of what is found once I get it taken care of.
  10. Cam covers need to come off, which requires special tooling. Thanks for the help, appreciated.
  11. Thanks. Do you know if the camshaft covers need to come off, or can you pull the tubes out with a boat drain plug?
  12. If I have oil in the spark plug tubes, can I simply replace the tubes, or is more work necessary? Thanks
  13. Durametric Pro, San Antonio TX. Only have the ODBII cable.
  14. X2 There is a "chip" (transponder coil) in the key. The DME needs to be programmed to allow that chip to start the vehicle.
  15. The water temp gauge is nothing more than a glorified idiot light, once warm it sits at 175°F regardless of the real temp and only changes under extreme circumstances. The oil temp gauge actually works like it should. I can hit 225°F with just one hard run to 60 or 70 mph. I have to work a little harder to get to 240°F, but I can easily see how some spirited driving up a mountain would do this. I wouldn't worry about it at all. Cleaning out the radiator area is not a bad idea and adding some sort of screens to protect them and help keep them clean is not a bad idea either.
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