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Everything posted by dphatch

  1. Static voltage at battery was 12.59, at idle 13.80 DME voltage, engine compartment fan running but all else turned off, 13.71 Ordered the cable as all appears within the JFP's recommendations . Will retest after install of the cable and post the results as a followup.
  2. When we get a car with a suspect cable problem, we disconnect the cable and check it for internal resistance using a digital multimeter. These cables should have no resistance; if we find any, the cable gets replaced. This is a fairly common problem. You can do the same thing by measuring voltage drop to get to the same place, but you need to be cautious because that method cannot pinpoint which cable is the problem if the harness has more than one cable or a connector in it. So comparing the results from the Durametric to the voltage reading at the battery + terminal won't offer confirmat
  3. That would be a big help as an alternator is an alternator, but I'm not seeing the video attachment. Could you try it again ?
  4. Looking to varify that the variance between the voltage reading at the alternator and the voltage reading at the battery is possible cause of slow cranking when car is hot. From what I have read the normal voltage at the alternator should be 14.7 volts. A drop of .5 volts or more at the battery suggests resistance exists in the charging curcuit between these two points and the most common cause appears to be the alternator/starter/battery harness. I have also read that the issue is not limited to the '05 and '06 cars. Before I replace it I'm looking for confirmation of same. Battery checks
  5. Is that the voltage that shows as terminal 30 ? Was not sure if that was the same result as taking a physical reading at the alternator itself. If not , what specific section would give me the reading ?
  6. Any tricks to accessing the B + terminal on my alternator ? Wanting to test terminal voltage prior to ordering new cable and there is absolutely no room behind the alternator to get to the terminal. Short of removing it, how does one test the voltage output at this terminal ?
  7. Could very well be trapped air. Burp valve needs to be openned before the cooling system reaches normal op temp. link below outlines air bleeding proceedure. http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Install_3rd_Radiator_%26_Coolant_System_Bleeding_Instructions.html
  8. The slow fuel level reading has so far not happened again. I erased the codes and they have not retruned but will pay more attention to he fuel gauge when refilling. Is the sending unit RR a DIYI project ?
  9. did that and the O ring looks like new. i got a strong gasoline odor though when i removed the cap which i don't recall ever getting before. last time I refueled it took a while for the fuel level indicator to get to the full level from the 3/4 mark. not sure if either are related
  10. Check engine light came on this morning while out for coffee. Codes tht came up where 461, which is for Fuel level sensor and 455 which is for the fuel tank indicating a major leak. No issues noted with the car and cetainly no major fuel leak. Planning to erase the codes and see if they come back but thought I might check in here first. Car has never thrown any codes since new so these two seem a little strange as the first ones.
  11. Hard top will fit but , unlike the later 996's there are no locks installed on 997's at the factory to secure the top so they need to be purchased and installed. Locks for the early tops will fit the 997.1 and the install is straight forward. There are many posts and DIY's on the subject. Do a search on this forum and 6speed .
  12. If you can get to the jump lug, am assuming that's what you mean by "red fuse ", all you need to do is attach a 12 volt battery and pull the front hood switch in the door sill. Then you need to find your owners manual as it is filled with useful information about your car. Then remove your dead battery, disconnecting the negative terminal first, and take it to Autozone, or nearest equivilent, and have them check it out to see if it will hold a charge. Might also want to invest in a CTek battery maintainer while you're at it. Remembering to use it will eliminate future dead battery issues ev
  13. I might suggest you get a qualified mechanic to diagnose your problem before you throw more money replacing parts that may not be causing your problem. Your second post regarding this same noise suggests that you're replacing stuff without having first determined what needs to be replaced. Costly approach to automotive repair particularly on a car like a Porsche where the parts aren't cheap.
  14. The Sport Chrono is controlled by the trip computer stalk and only operates when it is activated / turned on at the stalk. If you are actuating it from the stalk and neither your chrono nor your friends workes I'd check to see if you are getting power to the chrono when you active it. If not next step would be fuse panel than possibly a faulty control relay.
  15. How long does it stay on ? Does it go out when you lock the car ? Have you checked the lighting setting on PCM ? Not likely that only the center position of the switch is failing so must be something else. Give us a little more to go on.
  16. Autozone sells 'em. Have one in my '07 C4S and it works great. Has the proper terminals and vent tube.
  17. Might just you take it to your dealer and let them advise you. Most don't do paint and body but they'll have some one they use that they have experience with. Definitely want a shop familiar with high end cars. When they're done you'll never know it was dented but you might remember how much it cost you to get it fixed. Insurance even pays you for being stupid but don't ask me how I know. :)
  18. Henrik68 you're living on the edge, and I cleaned that up for the forum police, driving an unsorted car at that speed on a public highway. Hope you alert your friends before you get out on the public road again so they can steer clear.... Lose control at that speed and they don't send out an ambulance, just the guys with shovels to clean up the mess. After you have had a chance to have the car set up properly for high speed driving, maybe you'll find a proper race track to test your skills on .
  19. Thanks. Noticed on the Yellow Dog site the extended cables. While I know there isn't much extra length in either cable are the extended cables necessary ? Mounting plates appear to place the battery fully to the drivers side so am thinking the negative cable will work as is. Is the extended positive cable needed to reach the repositioned battery ?
  20. Would suggest you include replacing the thermostate when you do the water pump. As the water pumps on these cars are considered wear items by many , I wouldn't wait too long on the water pump replacement. While it may only be showing minor seepage now, a full blown failure should be avoided at all cost and they have been known to fail.
  21. On their site, Optima doesn't list any batteries at all for any Porsche vehicles. What's that all about ? My understanding was that the 34R was the battery of choice for the 997.
  22. No one using any kind of dry cell or AGM type battery ???????
  23. 997-603- 012-FX-M14 is the only Bosch part number Pelican shows as the OEM suppliers part. No other numbers listed. If you're still in doubt call Suncoast parts and ask 'em.
  24. Did a search but came up empty. Would like to know if anyone is using an Odyssey 925 or 1200 battery in their 997 and if so what has been your experience with regards to starting a hot engine and general battery life when the car is sitting idle for short periods of time, say a few days. Thanks.
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