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Everything posted by nick49

  1. MAF is faulty. Save a lot of issues and only go with a Bosch OEM genuine Porsche as aftermaket ones seem to be ok in the short term only to fail in a few weeks. I chased the problem for nearly a year ordering aftermarket ones, sending them back, losing a lot of money and time. Trying other things that would cause the problem finally fit a new OEM and the problem never returned.
  2. I agree with RFM, try to pinpoint where the problem lies before deciding on an ultimate solution. In my case, the chain of events were a slight rattle or knock upon starting, rough running and a flashing CEL in about a half mile from home. I immediately turned around for home and with the car running in the driveway lots of steam and coolant was exiting my right tailpipe. I checked my coolant level and it was not visable in the filler reservoir. I pulled the plugs on the left bank and the exhaust header and found the offending cylinder. My car had less than 45k miles on it at the time.
  3. I was lucky to have Porsche goodwill a replacement motor and I paid the labor. This was in '06. I think the best route for a complete motor, if you are going to keep the car is the Porsche replacement as it comes with virtually everything new and updated including the injectors, alternator, starter, electronics, power steering pump, belts, internal chains and tensioners, updated RMS and IMS and air/oil separator. All known mechanical issues have been addressed and corrected so you will have your original car with the security and peace of mind of a new power plant and all related accessories. These are every bit as good as a brand new motor but much less expensive.
  4. From your vid, it looks exactly like steam from coolant leaking into the combustion chamber. I hope I'm wrong. I've been thru this with my car.
  5. Keep your fingers crossed. Hope like hell the white smoke was oil from a failed oil separator and not steam from coolant leaking into the cylinder and combustion chamber. Good luck, check your coolant level, hopefully it's full and not oily, this will tell you something. Check your oil too, hope it doesn't look milky or like it's at all mixed with coolant.
  6. Where did you buy it? I'd like to find one for less than $300.
  7. That's the canister that houses the filter. Unscrew it, R&R the filter and o ring, fill with clean oil and replace it hand tight ot until flange lightly seats and compresses the oring. Someone will probably chime in with the torque figure.
  8. A little more info since my last post. I erased the codes, cleaned some light residue from the inside of the throttle body, inspected the intake from there outward, replaced the air filter which was pretty clean originally. The CEL came back on in less than 50 miles with the same 2 codes, nothing more. I'm now noticeing more than ever, that when sitting a red light idling for a short time and starting out, the car will hesitate, buck and stumble and nearly die, then run fine. It's loading up and will happen just off idle and sometimes just below 2000 RPM. I even filled the tank with fresh gas as I was about a quatrer full. Didn't make a difference. I added some heet to the tank thinking maybe had a condensation problem and haven't tried it since. Something is causing it to run too rich at idle or very slightly above. Any ideas on the off idle stumble?
  9. Being the owner of a '99 Boxster going on 7 years and a '99 Carrera going on 6 years, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another '99 in very good condition in the future. I would however, knowing what I know, buy one that had a replacement motor installed as recently as possible. It would give me peace of mind knowing the slipping/cracked sleeve issue, weak intermediate shaft/bearing problem, RMS issues, Oil separator issue, are all addressed. Also nice knowing I would have a newer ps pump, starter, coils, alternator, motor electronics, plus all internals with the old lighter body and chassis, limited slip diff, mechanical throttle and other pluses for the '99 model year.
  10. Thanks for the reply. I'm still trying to track down the source of my problem. Have 2 1/2 year old motor w/under 12k miles, and less than 100 miles on a new MAF my thoughts, unlikely leaking injectors on both banks, Still could be too high fuel pressure or EVAP purge valve open. Where is it and how do I check it?
  11. This is common, my wife's Boxster does the same thing. I find if I let it run 5 minutes or so before driving off, it minimizes the popping which sometimes will trigger a fault code and cause the CEL to come on. I don't think anything is actually wrong with the car. Drive it gently until it warms a bit.
  12. I can rule out bad gas, as I've had the codes and CEL for several tank fulls. I can rule out the blocked intake too. I do have the old MAF. I also have the same MAF in my wife's Boxster that is good. How do I check for a open EVAP valve? The cars runs better with the new MAF than with the old one, noticeably so, I'm pretty in touch with this as I've jetted roadracing motorcycles for optimum performance for years. I've had an ever so slight off idle stumble a few times recently that may be indicitive of something related. Again it's not regular and something I can't repete. I don't drive the car often in the winter as I live near the mountains and we've had snow for 6 weeks. So I'm driving it once a week and then for only 20 or so miles. Thanks
  13. There are several scanners available for < $250. It's a must have tool for all modern engines and can pay for itself with one use. Search and you'll find several that people use. Idle control valve should not cause those codes, but if you have not done so, remove it and clean it and the throttlebody. I saw the Durametric scanner for just under $300 which is Porsche specific. What would you recommend for a more reasonable price? I've got more time than money right now as I'm in the off season of a seasonal business. I removed the air filter housing a month or so ago, inspected the filter, hoses, clamps and related parts. The throttle body with less than 12k miles still looked new. I guess I could check again. Also if an injector was leaking it would have to be more than one or at least one on each bank to cause both codes, correct? Rather unlikely on a 12k mile motor? I think so, but I'm not an expert.
  14. New MAF is the 123.00 for mechanical throttle. And the new one made my car idle slightly higher and smoother and eliminated the hesitation at 5-6K rpm. So I assume it's working. Are you refering to a Porsche scanner that I'd either have to purchase or visit the dealer? Thanks
  15. I cleaned the 3 yo/15K mile MAF twice a couple of months ago and it made no difference, Then I replaced it with a new one, car runs fine now but CEL reappeared. New one has less than 50 miles on it, CEL on again and same 2 codes are present.
  16. I've done a search and the amount of info is a bit confusing at best. I've had my '99 996 going on 6 years and replaced the MAF about 3 years ago when I got a CEL with codes P1123 and P1125. Everything has been fine since until a few months ago and now I'm getting the same codes again. I did have a replacement motor installed by Porsche about 2 1/2 years ago when a sleeve slipped on my original. I have the stock air filter, recently changed the oil filter. New motor has about 12k miles. When the CEL came on with P1123 and P1125 I developed a momentary hesitation between 5-6k RPM and a low and somewhat fluctuating idle speed. I recently installed and aftermarket MAF and cleared the codes. The car ran noticeably better with higher idle and no upper midrange hesitation but the CEL came back on the first time I drove it within 15 minutes. I verified the codes and they are P1123 and P1125. Another thing I've noticed a slight burned chemical smell when I use my heater that I didn't notice last year. It's not exactly like coolant or oil but it's possible. The coolent reservior was replaced along with the motor. The underside of the chassis and motor is clean and dry without evedence of leaking oil or coolant. The TPS looks like a new unit as is the throttle body, spark plugs, coils and related stuff supplied with the motor. I don't have any durametric tools, just a code reader and volt/ohm meter. Any ideas as to what my be causing my CEL? Or what things I can check next? What are the simptoms of the air/oil separator billows? And is it included with the new motor? As I understand it, the codes I have mean there is a rich condition on both banks that cannot be leaned out. Is this correct? I'm hoping someone has been thru this and help me out. TIA, Nick
  17. The tires require a lot of pressure and handling, especially high speed will deteriorate if they are under inflated. Go by the manual and you should notice a big difference. The ride is usually harsher with more pressure and most tires I've used will loose air and need to be filled fairly often.
  18. I have the same symptoms and the same codes with cel on. I replaced my MAF and turned the CEL off. It came on again the same day. My car is a '99. Any ideas?
  19. 25mm is approximately 1 inch, and .4mm is about the thickness of 5 sheets of paper. Anyway the electronic control functions will still work as they compare wheel speed relative to each other.
  20. If you do everything above, you may only have three (3) potential problems that are easily avoided. 1) A minimum of 3 of your cylinders will have an exhaust valve open. This essentially is an open, unrestricted path for air to enter your cylinder. The air will in time equalize with the outside air and eventially have an even higher humidity due to nightly condendation as the tempertures drop. You will also get water pooled up in the bottoms of the cylinders a few thousanths up to a quarter in deep depending upon humidity, temperature fluctuations and length of sitting. This will and does happen in the cylinders with an intake valve open and no valves open but to a lesser degree. The pooling water is acidic and quite corrosive and will stain or at worst pit your cylinder walls, rust and corrode your top compression ring. I have personally witnessed this many many times and actually had it happen on one of my racing motorcycles stored in the slightly heated garage in less than 2 months. 2) The majority of your transmission mainshaft, countershaft, and gears are in an air space in the mid and upper portion of your transmission housing. Only the lower 20%-30% is protected by being submerged in oil. Unfortunately the airspace contains moisture and the same scenario above takes place nightly. It rains in there and the acidic moisture coats all the exposed metal parts as soon as the protective oil has sluffed off. The oil also has acidic water that seeks the lowest point of the trans case as it is heavier than oil. If it sits for a long time the gears and shafts will actially become etched and pitted. If severe enough and thru the hardening of the gear faces the teeth can actually fracture and break, bearings like ball, roller, and drawn cup needles will be affected as well. I have actually drained a trans and had clear water in a small amount come out before any oil, and the oil was milky due to the water content. Out of curiosity, I tasted the water that got on my finger and it was very bitter like vinegar. The under side of the drain plug was also rusty from the corrosive water. 3)The Porsche uses double row ball bearings for the wheels. Compared to standard bearings like a tapered roller Timken cup and cone, these are very expensive and take special tools and equipment to service. They are self lubricating and of a perminently sealed variety. They seem to go bad with great regularity compared to simpler and cheaper more common types. To get maximun service life from your wheel bearings, avoid having your car sit in one spoy for a long time. Move the car as often as possible to allow the balls to move to another position and get a fresh coat of lubrication. Again there is moist air space between the balls and the lube. A droplet of water will form and fall to the bottom of the bearing which will start corroding the lowest ball and race. This is why, other than incorrect assembly on a replacement bearing, they fail. I've personally replaced 100s of failed wheel bearings, all from deteriorating while sitting in the garage for months over the winter. All of the above will be avoided if you start your car weekly and let it run for just a few minutes, better is to let it reach operating temperature. While you're at it back it up a few feet and pull it forward again and turn the steering wheel lock to lock. This moves all the bearings in your wheels, coats all the suspension pivots and steering with a fresh coat of grease. I have owned 5 Porsches, currently have 2 and have worked on motorcycles for a living since 1974. Everything I have written above is from personal experience that I have witnessed first hand. It took years of seeing the same things in varying degrees, asking lots of questions, seeking answers, and understanding what was happening and how to avoid it. It's most important to remember that most damage occurs to a vehicle from sitting idle.
  21. I installed a Genuine Porsche PSE on my 996 a couple of years ago, never installed the electronics. Never regretted NOT installing them, simpler is better. I agree with others, sounds great all the tiime, not loud enough to be offensive, but loud enough to announce your presence, and it usually brings a smile to those who hear you.
  22. We've had a '99 Boxster for over 5 years now and a '99 C2 Carrera Cab for 4. Both are great cars and I would be happy with either, but after owning both for several years, I'd only be happy with the Boxster if for financial or other reasons I was not able to have the Carrera. Others may disagree, but I think of the Boxster as an entry level vehicle, a more economical way to enter the Porsche experience. I feel the Carrera gives you more of everything that you get from the Boxster. More leg room, more interior storage, more power, more instrumentation, more of the fun factor (IMO), more attention, more complements, (as if this matters) more payments! (LOL)
  23. Your not being consistant with your numbers and you don't state if you're talking in thousanths, tenths, inch, metric or what. 0013 if you mean 13 ten thousanths of an inch is perfectly accetable for a machined wheel. But what is 20,41 and 22? Regardless of measurements, you could have a non-concentric forging that cannot be corrected with balance weights. I'd get a refund or go with a better quality wheel if this can't be corrected. Also compare weights to known quality wheels, weight is everything.
  24. A slipped or cracked cylinder liner (sleeve) is much more common than a blown head gasket. Intermix of coolant and oil is usually the first sign. Unfortunately usually the only fix in the USA is a replacement motor. In the UK there is a shop where they can resleeve the motors. Good luck.
  25. Well, there may not really be a problem. I think it's normal to feel like a man when you change your oil or for that matter work on your car. I remember I felt sort of like a woman when rolling out the crust for the home made turkey pot pies I made from scratch. And oh, the radiator cooling fans an A/C are unrelated.
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