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Typically when i buy a new car, i like to flush/change all fluids if possible even if the entire service history is known, mostly for my own piece of mind. I've finished both diffs, TC, engine oil, and was going to tackle brake fluid next, and figured since the car is going to be on jack stands anyways, might as well change the power steering fluid at the same time. Having done this before on the 2004 CTT, is the procedure pretty much the same? (Turkey baster to suck up as much fluid as possible, turn to lock in either direction and continue sucking fluid, then refill). And I presume the fluid is still Pentosin 202? I have the workshop manual, but the procedure there seems to be for the flush, not change, which i'm not sure i want to tackle in my garage, and i'm unable to find a procedure for a simple change. any pointers would be most appreciated!
Cross-posting this both at 6Speed and Renntech. Quick Refresher - Left turn crunching issue. 3rd Owner for 2011 CTT with 93k miles. Switched fluids to Redline D4 ATF and while the frequency of issues decreased, they were still around. So 300 miles later switched to the Ravenol fluid. Have given it 300 more miles since, just to make sure, but can now confidently say that the issues are completely gone. So mark this down as another data point in favor of the oil change as opposed to the TC change. Also, given that you only need a Qt (850 ml actually), i'm just going to get into the habit of changing the TC fluid every year/motor oil change, given it's so easy and cheap, and given that i have yet to hear why changing it that frequently would be a bad idea. Year Model Mileage Location AT/MT Fluid Remedy ForumUserName ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 2012 V6 105,000 TX, USA MT Raveonl TF0870 Y ChrisFu 2012 V6 40,000 CA, USA AT Porsche OEM Y Steph280 2011 CTT 93,700 IL, USA AT Ravenol TF0870 Y pastorom
Ya, I think that's what i'll do next. I've had great experiences with Redline in my 955 CT and BMW E39 M5, and i had a few unopened bottles handy, so i figured it was worth a shot. Will try the Ravenol next and report back when i've changed it out. Thanks guys!
Sorry, missed this in my original post. I used Redline D4 ATF for the TC fluid.
Changed my TC oil last Friday as well. Similar observations as you, Chris. 2011 CTT with 93k miles. I did this because i have the "crunching acorns" noise when i make left turns from a halt, or slow left turns, and figured changing the fluids out before i sprung for a TC replacement. While the noise was gone after my first few rides, it does seem to be back. It's fairly random, and it *seems* to be less frequent, but that might just be the placebo effect. I'm going to follow the advice above and change the fluid again after a couple weeks/hundred miles or so. I changed all my fluid this weekend (with the exception of the ATF) and the TC was by far the easiest, with the rear diff being a close second. So given how easy this is, curious to know is there's a downside to changing the TC fluid more frequently to potentially help with the issues noted?
Hey, I installed the hella supertones as a replacement for the stock horns about 8 months ago, since the oem horns suck on the 955 CTT. Straight wiring, no relay. Just connected to existing wires and added shrink tubing. It's a bit of a struggle to fit them in physically, but i've had no issues with sound or battery drain since then
Awesome, thanks so much! Ordering right now
So i've been attempting to DIY a lot of the 200k mile items on my CTT 2004. In the process of trying to replace my drive belt (step 5) in the tutorial here, the hose that's underneath the Y pipe plenum cracked and broke off - it was super brittle. The plenum itself is fine, it's just the little piece of plastic that fits into the hose. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas? Do i just need to buy a new plenum? Thanks in advance.
I tried one of the brakes, and the color of the fluid coming out was the same as that of the new fluid. There was a little debris for like the first few ml, but then it was clear. No bubbles either. I guess this is a good thing because it means that the old brake fluid is clean, but i find that a little hard to buy given that maintenance records (and the PO was meticulous) show no brake flushes for 195k miles!! In any case, makes figuring out when the new fluid is coming that much harder. I let it go on until the fluid looked absolutely clear, no bubbles etc. I've left the power bleeder still connected, so will tackle the rest of the brakes later this evening.
I already have the motive bleeder and two liters of ATE Typ 200. My current brake fluid is also amber in color, so the traditional color change method doesn't work here, for me to figure out when to stop bleeding each valve. Given that there are 8 valves on the CTT, how much fluid per valve should i be draining? I figure measuring this is going to be the safest way to make sure i have a clean flush.
So i'm trying to replace my drive belt about 196k miles in (bought the car used about 600 miles ago). At step 5, while trying to remove the hose beneath the Y pipe, i see that both the tabs are broken. Just pulling on the Y pipe doesn't work, and i'm afraid of breaking something. Does any one have any suggestions on how to deal with this? I'm guessing pushing the tabs in caused the red fitting around the pipe to loosen somehow (though how exactly is not clear to me), so should using some needle nose pliers or a wrench do the trick?
Yup, thanks for the tips! The hoses are indeed a pain to remove. I should have this done today. And yeah, just became a contributing member - it was worth it just for the TSBs! This is a great resource
actually, found this thread, so i'll try looking that up first. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/31161-brake-booster-faulty/
I purchased a 2004 CTT with 195k miles on it a few months ago. At the time i bought it, i did so knowing that the 'brake booster faulty' light came on in the cluster. On a couple different forums, it was suggested to me that i simply tape the pressure hose. I took the truck to an indy recently to check what needed to be done for a 200k mile service, and his recommendation was to just replace the hose with an updated pressure hose. I've been DIY'ing a lot of the other jobs on the major maintenance checklist, and was hoping to tackle this myself too. But i'm having trouble identifying which hose this pressure hose actually is. I have the service manuals and can't find the right section for this either. Has anyone tackled this before? What should i be looking for? How should i be going about this?