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Cassiebox

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Everything posted by Cassiebox

  1. I'm glad you're fixed, but now you need to find that water leak... or I'm afraid your issues will come back after heavy rains/washing/etc. Start w/ all the drains for the car - especially the ones in the conv top storage and as well the liner. Good luck :)
  2. two flashes on lock are normal one flash on unlock (the reverse of most other cars) faults are indicated by a beep of the horn ;)
  3. Ummmm...Cassie is my dog... though she's smart and loves to ride in the Boxster, she'll only love you back, momentarily, when you offer liver treats and cookies. I'll send you her paypal address for sacrificial offerings to PetSmart. ;)
  4. Correct, don't connect anything to the stereo. If you have an '03-'04 986, you have the 6ch amp and need to connect the wires to the amp. Here are the instructions from PNP w/ details on how to route the wires to the front trunk and hook them up to the amp. http://pnpvirginia.com/03-04_SPEAKERADDITIONKIT.pdf Good luck :)
  5. with the cdr23 the speakers should be hooked up directly to the amp as it is 6 ch. and not connected to the h/u When ordering your kit, did you specify MY to get the extra harness? It should have been included at n/c if you did.
  6. My pleasure and yes the search function can sometimes be less than fruitful if you don't have the right key words but glad you tried using it. A lot of people just post away w/out trying and then get upset when nobody responds/replies to their inquiry. Anyhow, welcome aboard and don't forget the requisite Boxster picture B) PS - If you make a small donation to Renntech to help keep the lights on, you become a contributing member and get access to the TSB library which can be very useful especially since it sounds like you are more than the average DIYer. As you dig into your car more you might want to consider.
  7. Steevo25- First off, congrats on your new to you Boxster and welcome! You'll find lots of technical information regarding your car including DIYs, maintenance write-ups and of course our ever favorite mods. Most of these topics have been covered a number of times so the details can be easily found using the search feature in each forum. Just plug in the key words of interest. Plus it's fun to just browse around an read the old threads. Anyhow, regarding lifting the Boxster to put on jack stands, here's a recent thread w/ details and some good pictures on how/where to properly. The linked thread within my post #4 is the original but it looks like the pictures w/in it are no longer active. Both will get you where you want to go. Lift the Boxster Thread Good luck and enjoy your new ride :) PS - it's required to post at least one picture of your Boxster ;)
  8. Brake/clutch fluid flush is every 2 years ;)
  9. :o :huh: :o Uh-huh. Let me know how that works out for ya B) Shall I check back in w/ ya in 6 months or sooner B)
  10. Congrats and looking good! Watch out for the mod-bug - it's got a long lasting bite ;)
  11. 60K maint should take care of most but I'd also check out: - AOS and update it if it's not at least ver .03 (current version is .04 - meaning it's the 5th design) - DIY - tires - I'm sure they've been changed at least once but I wouldn't want anything more than 7yrs old on there - polyrib/serp belt - I think 60K is a replacement. If just visual though, change it unless you know it's been done since you owned (or done in last 4 yrs) DIY - coolant - although it's supposedly lifetime coolant, your car is 10-11yrs old depending on when built. Not a bad idea to flush DIY if you want - coolant cap - if last 2 digits on cap are .00 then get the new version (.01 but apparently there is a .02 out there - .01 will suffice) easy DIY - inspect water pump for leaks (when doing serp belt) That's all I can think of quickly off the top of my head w/out having the '98s 60K maint in front of me to verify all that's supposed to be included. :)
  12. Speakers are really a personal choice so I leave it up to you but if you have the factory amp, you'll want something with specs to maximize. At least: RMS 2-40W or higher, 2 ohm, sensitivity of 92dB+. and range below 50Hz at a min (shoot for 35 and below). With 6x9's on the table you will be able to find speakers easily at 40Hz. I have 6.75" rated at 45Hz and there is a very nice amount of bass. Not enough to set off car alarms mind you but plenty for me. My grilles are oval, not quite as oval as 6x9's but oval none the less. 6x9s will work, you could also use 6x8s. I'm not sure what you mean by centering them but more or less yes. Vertically center the speaker where they are located on the template (you can hedge down a bit). Horizontally, no. Just match up the leading (hinge side of door) edges of template and new speaker. Good luck :)
  13. Gary Was the baffle template you used this one (but a # of pages)? If so, I'm glad it worked well for you. Ironically, I made it about 2 years ago almost to the day. I know it's been downloaded many times but you're only the second person I've heard who used it. The first person had some trouble w/ the scaling when they printed it. As you now know, it's a very worthwhile upgrade putting 6.5" or 6.75" drivers in the door. If I had to do it over again, I'd probably drop in 6x9s (they will fit). Amazing the spectrum you can now here, huh? I'm always surprised more people haven't done this mod yet. Regards :)
  14. Nice job and great write up! :) I too installed homelink and was going to go the switch route but the Targa switch was pretty expensive, IMHO. So, I took a homelink box and mounted it in the batwing (cut out the fins and use a dremel to make the holes). It's powered it off the phone cord. and installed w/ the indicator light: Incidentally, if you find the range too short, just open the box up again. Using two 2"x 10" strips of aluminum foil, fold the 2" side over twice (to make it about 1/2" x 10"). Then wrap one piece around each end of the antenna (the silver bridge-like thing on the right of the circuit board in your pic 5 above) and feed outside the box. Close the box back up and wrap each strip (parallel to each other) around the black plastic box and tape the ends down w/ scotch tape. This will at least double the range you are getting if not more... (good for community gates). :)
  15. Nice write up and install. I added them as well but took an easier route and wired off the dome light. I did not use a switch - they function exactly like the lights on the doors (dim/fade/on) but also manually turn on when you click the dome light. I used 2 trunk lights but reduced the bulbs to 5W to match. The light in the passenger footwell is in the foam liner. For the driver's side, I mounted the light in a piece of plexiglass supported by the HVAC duct.
  16. You could just wire it in and tuck it back up behind the dash? Unfortunately in order for it to work, you need it connected unless you bypass the DSP amp completely and replace it w/ either an aftermarket one or a M490 amp. Sorry about your bowl of spaghetti... Good luck :)
  17. The front trunk hood is the same on all the 986 models. There is a difference in the bumpers depending on MY and S or not. So if you buying a full bra w/ bumper coverage, then no not all years are cross compatible and that is probably what they are referring to. :)
  18. Try my solution above in post #6 (obviously a little more cleaned up or you can split the shielding in the RCA cable and ground it that way). If that doesn't solve it, then I think you have internal grounding issue w/ the amplified sub.
  19. Choices are: - Black bra (need to remove when it rains & wash car to keep dirt from etching paint - clear bra (good installer will make it almost invisible) - TecnoBra (magnetic temporary protection which can be removed) I have a clear bra on my bumper and a Techno Bra for the hood and fender edges. Pleased w/ both :)
  20. Sooooo the noise entering the system is from your amplified sub. Where is it getting it's power from -same sources as h/u & amp? Are your RCAs to the sub running parallel to it's power cord? If so, separate them out by at least 18"s or so and see if that doesn't solve the problem. If it does not, you can try jumping the RCA grounds at the h/u, for the sub, to the h/u (which will then tie them in to the power ground - making it common as well). I hesitate posting this picture as it's a really bad example of how it can be done (it's not mine BTW either), but I think you'll get the idea so you can test it for a solution:
  21. Agree GLI is a band-aid solution and changing RCA cables will be of little value. I presume your amp, pre-amp sub and h/u all have different grounds. That most likely is the problem. Try creating a common ground for all of them, most preferably at the amp (which needs the most power and as such is preferred for having the shortest ground cable). Another cause could be the multiple channel grounds from your h/u to the pre-amp sub and amp. If you recall, when taking apart the OEM wiring, they used a common ground for all the channels coming from the head unit (FR, FL, RR, RL all had a common -). By now using RCA cables for each channel, you've isolated their grounds from each other and from the grounds of each of the components. As I said, try using a common ground for all your components at the amp and see if that clears it up. You can also try and ground the RCA cables to the h/u which will then tie them in to the power ground for the h/u (making it common) BTW - what kind of h/u are you using? :)
  22. you have what's called a ground loop caused by your radio, components and amp having different grounds. You can try either a power filter, GLI (ground loop isolator), or creating a common ground for all the components.
  23. not sure how bad "destroyed" is, but if it's just not functioning/displaying correctly, try cleaning the contacts w/ rubbing alcohol and a q-tip or w/ just a pencil eraser. Otherwise, keep watchin' ebay or contact becker as suggested above Good luck :)
  24. do you have an 550 SE '04? Sounds like you might. A picture would help too ;)
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