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rik881

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Everything posted by rik881

  1. I wish there was an easier write up, the work shop manual which is +450 pages is not so very handy. Anyway i got the suspected head off. I think i'll do them 1 one by one. There should be some markings on the timing chain but i can't find them. There is supposed to be a yellow and two copper markings on the chain. Instead i used a white marker. I saw one of hte waterhoses was broken i would like to order a new one but i need to find pthe partnumber. How can i find partnumbers? I added some pics. I can't really tell one place where the gasket is damaged, seems like it was leaking everywhere.
  2. Short update. I got the UVIEW tester but i decided not to test it. I'm still waiting for my fan to be repaired and since i am already convinced about headgasket being gone i decided not to use the combustion test after all. So i went ahead ordered the head gaskets and took off the valve covers. I need to order the spark plug gaskets which i forgot or should i say hoped to use again? Valve cover gaskets i'll be reusing, they look fine. I noticed one off the alu pipes had been leaking red coolant, will be looking into that when rebuilding. I have found the workshop manual: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=28167Great work guys!!! It seems i'll need some tools like the camshaft alignment tool and the crankshaft holding bar. I hope to do without them because ordering parts and tools takes so much time. To be continued...
  3. The UVIEW 560000 i have to order , that will take about 2 weeks to arrive. I would also have to reinstall the spark plugs, coils and may be the air pumps. I could however also go ahead and order the head gasket right away. Or i could by the Lisle test locally and test it right away. What would be the wisest thing to do?
  4. That's my question! I think he means the fuse in the back of the CDR-23. I had a non working CDR-23 which said protect, but pulling fuses did not change anything.
  5. When you change the fluid, go ahead andf get the valve body out and clean it. If that does not help order the Transgo kit or a new valve body costing 1 times more. The choice is yours.
  6. I finally managed to do the test! I did the test at around 80-90psi. I have bought OTC leak down tester. Which did not break. First one was Performance Tools brand and that one broke almost immediately. They are little different but end result is the same. Performance tool tester show loss percent OTC shows pressure so you have to do the maths to know loss percentage. I liked the OTC tester a lot more because there is no need to calibrate pressure to zero. I find it difficult to get the needle stuck on 0. I added some pictures. The one with the blue gauges is the OTC 5609 the other one is an identical leak down tester from another brand but the same as the PT. I get 5 percent or less on every single cilinder except one. I tested the bad cilinder 3 or 4 times and i get a loss from about 9 to 10 percent. 10 percent would be good if every other cilinder gave 10 percent. I did not hear any noise that i did not hear from the other cilinders but i think i saw some bubbles in the coolant, i'm absolutely not sure about this because it was very little and i did not happen again. So i'm still not 100% convinced that changing head gaskets will cure my problem. Using a combustion leak detector as Binger proposed might do the trick. I guess i'll have to go buy one. Or does one say go ahead and get the heads off? 7 cilinders say 5 percent leak loss 1 says around 10.
  7. Since i'm waiting for my new leak down tester i went ahead and tested the fan. Big fan does not work at all. AC fan spins fine though. This does explain a lot. Now i know why the temperature sometimes went up when turning off the ac. Luckily temperature never went beyond 3 mark. Has anyone ever repaired these fans? I saw they are pretty expensive on the net. I now am wondering wether i still should do the test or if i should go ahead and pull the heads and have them tested. Leak down test would not show what went bad, the head the block or the gasket, i suppose.
  8. I got the cooling fan out, i then did the test at 90 psi. Result: leak tester broke. I'll try to get another one tomorrow. I'll be testing at lower psi.
  9. If there was a way to move the crankshaft without getting front bumper and cooling fan off it would be so much easier. I can't even get out the engine oil dipstick holder.
  10. Air inlet pressure is at 50 psi. Documents say anywhere between 7 and 100.
  11. Do i really have to take of the bumper to get a socket on the crankshaft bolt?
  12. No you are wrong, the lower the better, thi is under 10 percent so it's fine. Now up to the next one.
  13. I bought a leak down test. I took out all spark plugs and the intake. I don't seem to have the right socket for the crankshaft. Anybody knows which size i need? I am trying to do it without taking out the bumper and cooling fan. I managed to test one cilinder so far and that one is fine as you can see in the picture i added. I did by the way drop the coolant which seemed very clean to my suprise. Only the last bit was dirty.
  14. I found this leak down test, would this be more accurate? http://www.ebay.com/itm/191190064827
  15. I'm just questioning the advice because i really think and hope the oil cooler went bad. Car stood for a long while and i have just changed oil few 100 miles ago. There is no water in my engine oil as i said. I am so stubborn because i saw this happen to older Toyota's. I live in a small country with no professional Porsche mechanics. I could order the leak down test but it would take like 2 or 3 weeks to arrive. That is why i want to take of the oil cooler. Worst case scenario would be oil mixing with coolant again. Or am i missing something? To me the point of a car forum is to not bring your car to the mechanic. What is wrong with a little trial and error.
  16. First: There is no water in the engine oil. Oil level did drop to a little below minimum. Coolant did not boil. I'm saying this because too much oil has gone in the coolant too fast for it to be a head gasket or a crack. I really want to know what gone wrong and i want to do it myself. If the oil cooler has gone bad i should be able to see what has gone wrong by taking it of right? A leak down test is not somthing a DIYer needs a mechanic for, google will do.
  17. You can buy any filter for our tranny, the Touaregs one are perfect fit and a lot cheaper. You should do some more searching also. I had hard downshifts going from 3 back to 2. Then i changed the fluid and took out the valve body and cleaned it with contact cleaner and brake cleaner and the hard downshifts from 3 to 2 went away. Instead it started hardshifting from 5 back to 4th. I then ordered a Transgo kit for a little more then a 100 bucks. I now have the best shifting tranny i have ever driven. Without breaking the bank.
  18. I find it a little strange this has not happened to anyone, and i have searched for it.
  19. I try to think i'm not most DIY. What i'll do i guess, is take out the oil cooler to find out what went wrong.
  20. My CS 04 Coolant warning came on so i ran home. When i came home i found to my suprise beige/ brown milkshake instead of the water i had put in. Stuff is really thick. If it were a bad gasket or cracked engine i would see some drops of oil i think. This can only be oil cooler i suppose. So i started looking on the forum for a diy or someone else who has ran into this problem but it seems this has never happened to anyone. So my question, is this oil cooler that went bad or could it be something else.
  21. Mine was also makes a lot of noises, car wasn't driven for a while. Now i'm driving the car again it seems to have stopped making noises. HAve you changed you interior air filter yet?
  22. A used one might have to be reprogrammed by dealer. You could send it in for repairs i guess.
  23. You might want to try this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-AUDI-ABS-Transmission-reset-tool-OBD-II-OBD2-Scanner-/160615118503?hash=item25656836a7&item=160615118503&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr
  24. When i installed the Transgo kit i just drove the car for about an hour for the tranny to adapt and it never again hardshifted.
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