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DaveN996

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  • Content Count

    11
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About DaveN996

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Fields

  • From
    UK
  • Porsche Club
    PCGB (Porsche Club Great Britain)
  • Present cars
    1998 996
  • Former cars
    BMW E30M3 (1987) <br />BMW E39 528 Sport
  1. Make sure your coolant tank cap is the correct one. I think the part no should end 04 I replaced my 996 (1998 c2) cap this year with a dealer part. theres a springy bit of metal on the coolant tank (bleeder valve) that allows you to bleed the system. If poss get the back of the car up high, set heater to max and run the engine with the cap off slowly filling until it stops taking coolant. Once it starts getting warm and stops taking coolant put the rad cap on with the bleeder valve up and make sure its ok. good luck thats how I did mine first time, second time (after I replaced a leaking rad) I bought the vacuum tool.
  2. Hi, I'd like to retrofit PSE and im thinking of going for the Dansk version. http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod13019/Exhaust-Muffler---Silencer-Sports-VALVETRONIC-DesignTek-for-Porsche-996/ It works with a Keyfob and I don't like that idea so i'm going to buy an OEM switch for the dash and wire it up... Here's the question I'm assuming the follwoing. With PSE off there would be no voltage at the vacuum valve in the engine? and the exhaust valves would be closed effectivly muting the system. When PSE is switched on 12v is applied the a vacuum soleniod and it opens allowing vacuum the the exhasut?? If my assumptions are correct then is will be fairly simple to make my own control relay instead of using the keyfob. I'm trying to make it look as standard as possible. Cheers, Dave
  3. Hi, Ive read the article, made the wiring loom and got the 4 way (up, down, back and forward) stalk to control the OBC. 5 pins on the stalk switch, 1 goes to ground other 4 to instrument cluster. Thats fair enough 1 wire is for selecting up, 1 down, 1 forward and 1 back. What i don't understand is on the back of the instrument cluster one of the pins to wire to is "speed alert/gong" see below Connector Pin #2 Gauge Cluster Pin #20 Select Mode Down Connector Pin #3 Gauge Cluster Pin #21 Speed Alert/Gong Connector Pin #4 Gauge Cluster Pin #22 Select Mode Forwards Connector Pin #5 Gauge Cluster Pin #25 Select Mode Backwards whats happened to the "Select mode up" wire from my stalk? is that the wire to the Alert/Gong Also are the pins on the white connector numbered? Thanks Dave
  4. Ive got some pics of the key in bits but at the moment i can't upload them at the moment
  5. Hi, Ive got 2 keys for my 996. One worked perfectly the other was not so great and could not be relied on. Brand new battery fitted.. Symptoms as follows: Car sometimes unlocked/locked Car sometimes locked unlocked if you squeezed the key hard whilst pressing the button. Sometimes nothing happened at all.. The LED on the key always flashed no matter what happened to the car. I've read various topics on key fixes some good and some not so. One thing people seemed to say quite often was to replace the button within the key and that fixed it, even if the led flashes! My thoughts are, if the led flashes the button works, simple no argument I can think of. The PCB within the key is dual layered and here I think is the problem. All I did to fix the key was to re-solder the switch connections and add a tiny amount more solder to ensure the switch is well connected to the board. I also re-soldered various other joints on both sides of the board for good measure, especially the ones that track thru to both sides. To make life easier I removed the battery and battery holder. Parts/tools needed Soldering iron with a very fine tip solder a desoldering tool or desolder braid (to allow refitting of the battery holder) A steady hand I think over time the pcb flexes and the tiny tracks break, especially the ones round the button and the tracks that run between the top and bottom of the board. There are tutorials using heat guns, i didn't feel comfortable with this method. But if they work great :-) Hope this may help anyone with key issues
  6. Hi, Ive just recently bought a 1998 996 and was worried about the same issues. Ive given up worrying now. Ive fitted the lower temp stat. Engine use to run at 92-98+ degrees. It now runs at 78-88 depending of traffic conditions. The lower temp stat is a good cheap place to start some preventative maintenance. I'd also replace the coolant if there's no record of it being done. Also make sure the front radiators are in good condition and not blocked up with leaves and rubbish. I noticed my rads are in poor condition and 1 looks like its had radweld in it. I think thats why mine still runs hotter that the thermostat temperature. The climate control panel can be forced into a hidden mode to show true coolant temp, the cluster gauge doesn't tell the truth or mine doesnt anyway. linky to get to hidden menu http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/180515-hidden-display.html Dave Apologies JFP in PA ​I didn't read your post and you mentioned the lower temp stat :-)
  7. Thank you again very helpful info oh and no amp found :-) should make life easier Dave
  8. I've just found the vin decoder. I'll have a look tonight when i'm back home. Hopefully there won't be an amp and installation should be simple. I hope the Parrot is good. I like the look of it and hope its going to fit in nicely Thank you again Dave
  9. Great. Thank you for the advice, much appreciated. I'll pull the wheel out and look behind to see whats been "done".. HI, kbrandsma, Thanks for the part number. I did find one on ebay but at greater cost than the one you talk of. P-Kay, Ive been looking at the instructions on here and elsewhere, I think my brain is overloaded and I guess if I just dive in it'll be ok (i'm a broadcasting engineer so confident with tools and a soldering iron) Kind regards, Dave
  10. Hi, I've been a member here for a few months reading and taking things in... It's a great site. My car is a 1998 996 with aero kit, very happy with it.. I plan to replace the Sony aftermarket radio, My preferred audio fitter/supplier want to look and see if the original amp has been removed. I went looking for it and could not see it. According to my brief search on google it should be near the front right wheel arch in the boot, is that correct? I'm planning on fitting the Parrot Asteriod http://www.parrot.com/uk/products/asteroid-range/parrot-asteroid-smart/ The Parrot is a double Din unit so I'm going to have to move the climate control panel. My guess is i just remove the empty holder below the cd holder and with the brackets from its current location it should transfer easily. Or am I assuming its easier than it should be? Thanks in advance for any pointers Kind regards, Dave
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