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986Jim

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Everything posted by 986Jim

  1. I have it in my car. It's only an LED that blinks as the spoiler goes up and down and stay red when it's up and off when its down. I thought it was also a switch so I could raise and lower it as well, but it's not. Its pretty cool to watch it blink when its going up, kinda lets you know its there and when the folk behind you are noticing a spoiler appear out of your car. Took about 2 hours to install with ripping the dash cluster apart but not a hard install, just some quality time sitting in the driveway.
  2. You have to loosen off the intake manifold bolts and slide the whole upper part of the intake manifold out of the way. Then when you have the lower bolt for the air box out (most people forget) you can get the box out. Even then it's with great difficulty to get that damnd thing out of the engine bay. It's so tight it's just incredible. After getting the intake manifold slid outta the way and the box loose it was another 20 minutes fighting with it to pry it outta the engine bay. Its so tight it slightly bent side of the metal around the opening to the engine.
  3. No because the car is still level just 1" lower to the ground. It's the angle of the headlight compared to the road that is most important not the overall height of the light to the road. If you change your lights by a few degrees that will drastically change how much you can see. All else being equal if the car is still level but just 1" lower than you shouldn't have any significant loss in light, or any really at all.
  4. Jim which one did you use from that link you posted, did you use the flexible Epoxy or another? Looks like they moved the site around http://www.venselenterprises.com/onlinecat...plies/p306.html its the flexane 94. A lot of guys are saying its too much vibrations in the boxster on that mount. I did it on a different car which had more engine mounts so it was not as noticeable. Seems like 80 is the way to go. Anybody have links for the 80 to buy online?
  5. Well Jim....that's a good theory. But the battery is about a year old. It's still could be weak...perhaps the charging system is faltering.... But remember that it does this at highway speeds when the alternator is pumping out amps, so I'm not sure. Winter is coming and parhaps I'll take your advice about testing it, so I'll know what's going on for spring. Thanks. If it's happening while driving then its not the battery it's more likely the alt or the regulator controlling the alt. There will be a shop somewhere near where you live that can re-build an alternator. Check around for general machine shops and / or call the V8 performance & machine shops that build performance V8 motors they will know for sure. A lot of V8 guys like to keep all the original equip so they would never buy a new alternator... These guys have sources to rebuild and repair just about anything automotive. I know the guys at my local machine shop quite well they are a wealth of info. When I built the motor in my talon I had them bore the block for me and help me set the ring gaps and stuff. They thought the 4 cyl stuff was cool but never tried it. Once I had it runnin at about 26psi of boost it made 424.6whp and I went back and took buddy for a ride, he thought it was pretty cool. It didn't really impress him cause they make 800hp motors but he still was impressed for a 4 cyl. Either way they were cool with helping me out.
  6. I'm gonna bet that the battery in your car is going dead. When the HID ignites it uses about 30amp for a few seconds to spark the bulb. In that short time frame there is a huge draw on the battery, so if your battery is dead its gonna cause some lights to come on just the same as if the car had stalled. Take your battery into a car repair place and have it load tested. I'm willing to bet it's on it's way out.
  7. It's funny. I was thinking about coming back to this thread for some updates. One of the things that pissed me off was those city lights looking orange like that in with the HID. SO I fixed it!!! The orange in with the HID lights as pictured above is from that small peanut city light. It's on all the time with the car. They are a standard 194 bulb. I searched around ebay for LED 194 lights and found lots of guys selling these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-HID-WHITE...sspagenameZWDVW I poped these in and that yellow light was completely gone as the white from the LED matched the HID light almost perfectly. SO when I park and pull the ebrake handle and it's only the LED on the headlight don't look orange anymore either they have a nice light cool white hue to them which looks way better.
  8. And enjoy your dyno proven 5hp and 3ft/lbs or torque gain. Bisi did back to back on his Dynapack, view this thread: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/f16/fin...ked-986s-75281/
  9. It's not that simple. I highly doubt the 996 uses the same mounting point as our cars do. Many times you do a caliper swap you need to make up a bracket to relocate you caliper. Maybe somebody else can tell us here... Or you have to swap your hub which then means your making up custom drive shafts with a 996 end on one side and 986 end on the other. Then you will need the rotors and pads. I was under the impression that Boxster S calipers were 996 anyway so you should just look at upgrading to those F&R. Honestly unless your going to be racing there is not much point the stock 986 brakes are really good and if you replace the pads and rotors with something high performance etc you should get all the braking power you could need on the street.
  10. Down low below 65mph you had about a 5hp gain across the board, then it looks like at about 85mph variocam kicked in and there is a drop which is normal for any variable camed engine (VTEC MIVEC ETC), then the gains really started to pile on. You have an almost 25hp gain at 105mph which would be around the 6000-6300rpm mark by the looks of the graph. Pretty impressive. You got the power in the top of the band which is exactly where you want it if you like to go fast. The gains down low are pretty useless. I'm actually surprised they did that well. The headers did quite well on the 2.5 because they don't have a collector built into the header, where the 2.7 and 3.2 both do. Even though there is a cat there, the existence of some type of collector is going to make more power vs. not having one. You still made great power on top of that. I would be pretty happy with that thats great.
  11. Hey Jim, found your video, sounds great! Are you running upgraded headers and cats as well? Also noticed you used to run a MKIII VR6? I just sold my VR6 Turbo. Glad to see that all paths eventually lead to Porsche :) Just wondering what the ID of the pipes going into the exhaust are for the Maxspeed setup? Anyone have experience with the Fabspeed or Instant-G exhaust setups? Yeah thats it. I posted this from work and they block youtube so I couldn't put up the link thanks for that. I did run a MK3 GTi with DP nitrous never tracked it tho, and my talon has video's on there as well... The ID on the muffler is the stock ID for the exhaust system 2" or 2 1/4" or whatever it is. I'm still runnin stock headers and cat but I have headers now just need to install them, prob this sunday I'll put it on the hoist. My car is a 99 so only one cat which is nice. The headers make 12hp and 18ft/lbs so I'm looking forward to that I'll tell ya.
  12. No clean it.. Its easy to get to and easy to clean, just follow the steps on mike focke's page and you'll be fine. I got the same thing, cleaned it and a year later and many km it has been just fine.
  13. You're mental. Lets see some pics of the process just for fun. What the hell is next seriously? A cayenne TT V8?
  14. I'm a little disappointed in how the quality of that kit looks, maybe it's the pictures or the fact it's all dirty and old, but that doesn't really look that great. It's probably the lack of engine room space that makes it all like that I guess...
  15. Mine were both crappy and I just bought new ones from the dealer they were about $68 for the pair and taking off the bumper is no big deal either. I looked at aftermarket stuff but it doesn't quite look right IMO... It seems to stuck on kinda thing for me. Either way whatever floats your boat.
  16. Its an exact copy of the evom exhaust. It's quiet at normal driving and loud when you stop on it. I have a clip on you tube. If you search boxster exhaust on you tube, my youtube name is DSMJim I think. I have a few clips on there from my car. I would highly recommend the maxspeed exhaust it sounds great looks great, and boy did I feel that extra 5hp hahahaha.
  17. Actually what the after market companies tell you is entirely correct, what your told is "a bunch of crap" unfortunately. The less back pressure you have on your exhaust the more HP and the faster your car will be. Needing back pressure is ONLY on a 2 stroke engine. This was though to be the case about 20 years ago but when we actually woke up and knew something about exhaust flow and how a 4 stroke engine works we have since realized that is not the case. Here are some random googles: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/...etorquemyth.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question172.htm Even on the most high strung engines if you just put on a header and basically no exhaust at all it will be disgustingly loud but it will make more power. On a honda lets say, with a 1.8L GSR (B18C) engine, the optimum exhaust system for racing is a header and full 3" exhaust with no cat no muffler no resonator. It will make more top end power than any other setup, (other than just an open header but generally not allowed in most racing circuits). Unfortunately this is a non-debatable area so please don't come back to me with this mid range torque answer etc etc.. thats a bunch of BS. Nobody cares about mid range torque unless your towing a trailer. So put a trailer on your Porsche then come complain to me and I'll listen. Otherwise the smallest amount of back pressure you can put on your car is the best for top end HP which is where you want it to go fast. Exhaust systems are designed with every other factor considered except HP. Meetings todays ever stricter noise and emissions regulation is what stipulates an exhaust systems size bends muffler design etc. Not HP. That is the last consideration unless the companies are directly violating it (Lambo, Ferrari, CGT etc..) and don't care. If you remove any restriction (the cats are one of the largest sources, second are the horrible manifold designs used by Porsche) you will make more power. Goto a dyno with your secondary cat bypass and you will make some small measure of hp increase. It may not be a lot and may make your car sound horrible in the process so the increase may not be worth it. If you were full out racing you would have a header straight pipe to basically the smallest muffler (or no muffler) that your racing series would allow because that would make the highest amount of peak hp which is exactly what you want. Not trying to sound rude or upset anybody etc, please don't take it that way. I have worked on a race team and races small displacement n/a cars for about 8 years now and we made 269whp from a 2.0L normally aspirated and have tested every exhaust combination you can think of. I have built street cars for guys who street race hardcore and want fast cars to guys who race in auto-x etc. I dyno cars and change parts at the dyno to measure increases in power. Hell my dad races a Nissan Maxima and made 292whp normally aspirated, his highest HP run was with headers straight pipe no cat and no muffler on a VQ35DE which is a 350Z motor in a 4th gen maxima. Watch this youtube clip of a 986 race car http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1-hZ2VLKiQ...ted&search= Read the comments by the clip poster about what exhaust system he is running on a race car, now ask yourself why he would be doing that? Regards,
  18. Dyno tested headers and exhaust: http://986forum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=...mp;postcount=57 Headers made 10hp 18ft/lbs Muffler made 5hp 1ft/lbs So the muffler does make HP, 5hp is not a lot, but guess what it is an improvement and more importantly not a loss. Now obviously don't go buying a muffler for a 5hp improvement cause you will be quite disappointed when you don't feel it. Buy it for the sound and the look. Headers have proven to give quite an increase in power.
  19. Let's see........... We go from a gear oil with the wrong API GL rating for these gearboxes (Mobil 1), to one with no API rating at all (GM/Penzoil Syncromesh)..................yeah, that makes sense................... Wow, everybody is an expert around here. JFP do a google search on GM Syncromesh around the net. I have used it in everthing from 500hp street driven civics to RX7's with Japanese 3 Rotor right upto Supras with 800+ hp and Audi S4's with dual K04's makin around 400+whp with quattro. Guys who run major power end up with tranny issues and the GM syncromesh works wonders in all these cases. Now eventually they will need to be rebuilt however in the mean time it gave them all some extra tranny life they would have never received before. The supra especially with the Getrag tranny was grinding into 2nd pretty badly. The syncromesh all but took away 90% of the grind for another year and eventually he stripped the gear right outta the box at the drag strip, if he didn't do that who knows how much longer it would have lasted. It's a bit of an unknown trick however just because it was developed for GM doesn't mean it's bad. I'll bet you have N rated tires on your car too eh?
  20. Bunk... The engine is designed to rev to redline so should you rev it to redline with each shift because it was designed to do so? No obviously not. The car is designed to down shift but engine braking is retarded. Use the brakes thats what they are designed to do, not the engine. Just because it does do that and the tranny does down shift doesn't mean it is ment to do that but thanks for coming out. The brakes are designed to be easily changed, you don't even have to pull off the caliper. Rotors are cheap. Use them up, use them all the time, press them hard on purpose, thats what their designed for. You can say the engine and tranny is designed to do that all you want, but guess what, the brakes were designed MORE to do that than the engine is, ask any engineer that and see who is right. There is simply NO REASON AT ALL to engine brake. You can not justify it no matter how long your post on RENNTECH is... :o
  21. You can mix red (pink) and green coolant it's not a problem. Green Coolant only lasts 50,000 miles or whatever its rated so if you waste money on pink and add it to a green coolant car you still have to switch it out in the same length of time either way. Otherwise there is no problem with the two coolants being mixed. One is long life the other is not, so you just made long life not long life by mixing it. Basically what I am saying is if it is mixed it's not the end of the world.
  22. I have seen problems consistently in many cars with Redline fluid. Seems like you change it out and it causes the tranny to be notchy afterwards. I have had them even be so bad that I have saved the previous tranny fluid and put that back in the trans to fix the problem. Light Weight Shock Proof has worked great in our race cars (nice turquoise color too lol) however I have seen it not be so happy in a few street cars as well... The best tranny fluid for transmissions with wear problems and some grinding is actually a GM product made by Pensoil. You can buy it from any GM dealership its called GM Syncromesh. If you have a grinding or tough shifting manual tranny after about 2-3000 miles with that fluid it does a wonderful job of getting the tranny to stop grinding and causing problems. When I first heard about it I never though a GM product would be worth looking at but I kept coming at me from different sources until we tried it ourselves. I ran it in my talon for years cause they are brutal on the transmission with AWD and 400ish WHP in my personal car. Nothing but that would keep the tranny shifting smooth at 8000rpm for an entire season...
  23. Because using a 10,000 dollar engine and 5,000 dollar transmissions to slow down a car to save a set of 500 dollar brakes just makes sense!
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