Chuck Jones

The heat in the wiring should indicate a problem with the fuel pump...but it's still curious why the fuse didin't blow.

Doug: That's not an imposition...it's just the policy that has always been there. The meager $17 that it takes to become a member will earn its keep many times over....I've saved a lot of money with the DIY photos and writeups.

As far as I know...the biggest difference is that it's a year newer. There were a few add-ons to the 05 Turbo S, but the 03-04 had essentially no differences.

It's quite common for the clutch accumulator and/or the slave to go out in these cars. I've replaced my accumulator. A lot of the dealerships will encourage you to change out both since they're in the same spot....but I only changed out the accumulator and everything is working fine. If you do a search on clutch slave and or clutch accumulator here and on Rennlist, you'll see a lot of folks had the same problem.... Best of luck...I'd try the accumulator first. IIRC it was only about $110 or so from Sunset Porsche...maybe cheaper. A dealership will want around $600 to fix it.

Jack: WROSS explained it precisely. Nothing more I can add, except that if you opt to do the wastegate upgrade, it's not something that's an easy task....you have to cut apart the wastegate cans, install the new springs and make sure the diaphram is centered right with no pinched edges....then you need to adjust the wastegates so that they open at the same time. Some guys do it by the millimeter measurement from the end of the rod to the back of the lock nut.....but a more precise methodology is to measure the psi at which they open and adjust them to open at the same psi. ARD did a DIY on this subject along with pictures, but he also used a home-built pressure gauge to ensure accuracy of each side....actually it's pretty well done....but if you're not mechanically inclined....use your VISA!!

I just went out and checked the codes...and I have graphite grey...which in low light can look almost black. On the link in this discussion thread, a RennTech'er was kind enough to look up all the interior color codes and list them.

WROSS: I'm running the Beru.....just changed out plugs at 30K and didn't see all the hullabaloo about going to the Bosch until after we did the install...and I wasn't going to go back under there to swap out again. I'm getting a steady 1.1-1.2 at WOT even with the Beru plugs and dont' have any hiccups. One thing I did that made a BIG difference was to go with ARD's suggestion and do the wastegate upgrade. That moved me into a higher category right off the bat and I've been very satisfied since then. I've said it before....but for the money, the wastegate upgrade is the single best and cheapest mod you can do. Just to be clear...I'm talking TT X50 here.

I have a "grey" interior too, but it's really more of a charcoal grey....if you put it up against a black seat, you'll see that's it's a shade lighter than black, but still sort of dark. What does your option code say? There's a look-up on here for option codes...see what it says.

If it's coming from the slave or the accumulator...it's Pentosin and that stuff is highly flammable. Nothing to fool around with. There have been a number of car fires directly related to Pentosin leaks. The stuff is under pressure and sprays...can hit the hot exhaust and ignite.

Whereas I can see the advantage of having some sort of dash mounted switch that allowed you to change your tune, the fact remains that the OBDII port device takes all of about 30 seconds to invoke. I guess this is going to come down to a number of what some folks might consider as critical factors. How inconvenient is plugging an OBD device into the port? How much more convenient is a dash mounted switch? What other features are built into the APR unit that the competition doesn't have? And perhaps the biggie....what is this new doo-dad going to cost in relation to the competition? Are the additional features worth the cost? I usually look at it in terms of .....function, form, and fiscal. If it stacks up close, then convenience could be a factor (not discounting the cost), but I (note*** personal opinion follows) can't see that many folks would find the need to be able to immediately switch back and forth between various maps on a routine basis....maybe if you're headed for a DE or track day.....or just bought a tank full of 100 octane race gas....but realistically, how much switching does the normal guy need in the course of a day, week, or month? If you're talking about driving across the US from California to New York, you'll encounter different octane ratings...from 91 to 93. The car pulls advance if it enccounters or senses a need to prevent detonation...and if you're gong to be a permanent resident of a different part of the country, I can see changing the map to match the octane available in your particular area. I am not knocking progress or new designs that incorporate new technology....but you have to define your needs and match the hatch.

If you're like me....I just let folks know I'm 67 and they just sort of say.....Ohhhhhh....sort of built in excuse that doesn't require any further explanation.

Same thing on the TT....I usually end up puttng my palm down on the front edge, then putting my other hand on top of the other and pushing down till I hear the click. It usually does take some pretty good downward pressure.

Oh....from what I've read....it's sort of something you pick up on weekend jaunts .....sort of like a weekend cruise on a waterbed with an adventurous gal. Sort of like...jes' cant get nuff....... I'm getting too old for that stuff...but I read a lot.

Kurt:: Yes...if you really want to see a "bone stock" car....take the time to go to WROSS's personal website and look at what he's done to his car.....I would classify it as slightly modified. Now with respect to your other question...my downsides.....everyone wants to give you the upsides...no one wants to mention the downsides. Depending upon what you end up doing....if you add horsepower....at some point you're going to over tax your clutch....like I've done. It may not happen right away...but it's more or less inevitable that it will happen eventually. Some guys say it happened three days after they flashed their cars. I think that's more a result of them becoming intoxicated with all the added power and running at WOT (wide open throttle) and launching their cars aggressively. As I said before, Im a bit conservative and usually progress thru stages after researching the products and deciding. Even driving conservatively....but still getting on it usually at a rolling start....I've futzed my clutch. I have not dyno'd my car...so I'm going off what my tuner told me to expect given the mods I've done...and he puts the horsepower between 490-520. WROSS is probably a better source to estimate that than I am. All I know is that as the car sits, it will probably outrun 98% of what's on the road....but I didn't make the mods to outrun folks.....I fell into the same basic trap that most guys fall into.....herion addiction. You start out as a "recreational user" and end up needing more. Personally, I have set my limit and intend to stay here. The performance is outstanding and I don't really care if I can shave another two 10ths off a quarter mile time. I don't track the car but I do look forward to DE days. I just like the rush of the turbos pushing me back in the seat....and the feel of merging into traffic as quickly as I might want....or passing a line of cars (not on the double yellow mind you) on a straight away. If you are set on modding your car....have a PLAN....don't run helter skelter around buying a cool air intake, then throw on a set of diverter valves...buy some SAMPCO hoses etc. You usually want to start with the basics....if you're after some horsepower....I'd say the flash first....keep some money stashed for a clutch down the line....diverter valves are a cheap but good investment, and the exhaust system is a key ingredient too...then sit back and drive you car and try to figure out what you want. Try to find guys who have already done certain things....especially when it comes to exhaust systems because "sound" is so subjective....what sounds good to me is too loud or too sedate for you. I've already warned you about DRONE....the nemises of guys with the need to have everything just right. Drone is an annoying and overly aggravating sound that you just can't escape. You see exhaust systems all the time up for sale....usually one or two particular manufacturers. Other than that....best of luck in your quest for whatever it is you're looking for. Don't be afraid to ask questions....Loren is a wealth of info on technical issues, and folks like WROSS and others are always willing to help you out with a straight answer.

Andres: No one can fault you for your perseverance or effort in trying to track down this problem. I'm truly sorry that you weren't able to correct the problem, but you literally did just about every trouble shooting procedure that was available. If it tuns out to be internal, you are still to be commended for a valiant and very conscientious effort....and commendation to the guys as well for all the input they gave you in trying to help. It's things like this that make this forum so valuable.

Kurt: I'm a bit conservative, so my approach to the modifications was to research the most talke about tuners and contact some folks directly to elicit their private responses to questions I had about the modifications. For the tuners, the main folks I found were Tony from EPL, Kevin from UMW, and the GIAC folks. There are others that I'll probably get some hate mail for not mentioning, but this is my thread so I'll respond my way. I narrowed it down to those three. I eliminated the folks who required you to remove your ECU and send it out for a lobotomy for several reasons. One is that I didn't want to mess with removing the "brain", and the second was I didn't relish the thought of mailing my brain out thru Fed EX, UPS, or anyone else. Third was that technology doesn't require it with the advent of the OBDII port flash....the tuner sends you a small device that downloads your map thru your OBD port and you load up your new tune thru the port....no muss and no fuss. You'll also find that there's a fairly wide fiscal spread amongst the tuners insofar as prices go. I'm not going to post prices becasue I don't feel that's up to me...you can research the prices and see for yourself. I will say that eventually I went with a UMW tune that was administered thru the OBD port. I also upgraded my wastegates with the UMW kit. I think that of all the mods....the wastegate upgrade was $395, and it probably represented the BEST return for the money of any of the mods. Remember now....I'm running an 02TT X50 with the larger K24 turbos, so the wastegate kit is designed for the larger turbos. I also put in a set of GT2 EVOM headers that I bought off eBay for $600 and am not sure they're worth the expense. From what I hear, the stock headers that are ported and polished will do very nicely and give you a good return for what little it might cost you to have them done...or do it yourself. I did the swap out on mine and it's about an hour's job but you need to replace the steel gaskets and bolts. I also did the diverter valves....and used the billet type from EVOM....got them off eBay also for $80 for the set. The OEM diverter valves work fine, but they're plastic and eventually the internal diaphram will tear and affect your boost. It's highly recommended, but not mandatory....to replace them. New, they're only around $250 for the set and can be done yourself with some patience and a good vocabulary of colorful words. Make sure you buy the ones that have a 90 degree fitting rather than a hose fitting that comes straight off the top. You will also come away with bleeding hands...there's very little room in there to maneuver around, but I did it in a couple hours with colorful language....and I'm no master mechanic. Then there's the free flowing exhaust system. I went with Europipe which uses 100 cell cats and they really reduce backpressure and free up some exhaust. They're expensive, but truly works of art. There are many manufacturers out there....some who claim they add XX horsepower and produce smile generating sound. You need to be cautious about some of the claims because some are not supported by dyno information, and quite frankly, some generate drone at certain rpm's....and that can drive you nuts. Some are also very loud...depends upon your individual taste. Exhaust systems run from $1500 all the way up to $7,000 or more. With that sort of price spread...you need to do some research and figure out what your objective is for your particular car. If you intend to eventually go with BIG horsepower....get the 70mm pipe so that you don't run into airflow obstruction and inhibit your plans to keep adding horses. If you don't intend to go over 550 or 600....from what I've read (do your own research)...the 60mm piping is sufficient and that's what I run....but as I said at the beginning, I'm a bit conservative. Loren has driven my car with the mods I have....and he was impressed even though I'm not going to be the fastest guy on the block. So what have we got at this point? 1. Flash tune thru the OBD port. Prices run from $800 all the way up to $3,000 or a bit more if you include dyno tuning. Also depends upon whether you have a stock TT or the X50. X50 may cost you more....be sure to check. 2. Replace diverter valves....cheap.....$250 3. Wastegate upgrade (K24 turbos)....my particular kit was $395 and another Rennlister helped me modify the stock ones. 4. Headers....port and polish your stock ones....do it yourself with a couple good steel cutting rotary bits or pay someone about $100+. If you choose to buy them, they run around $600 and up....watch the Chinese stuff for quality control. 5. Free flowing exhaust system....probably your most expensive mod...and you need to do some research before choosing. Systems run from $1500 on up....some with 100 cell cats will throw check engine lights...do research to see which ones don't. Some companies stick with the 200 cell cats on their enhanced systems. Some systems drone even tho the vendor says they don't. Check with guys who have run them. I won't bad-rap any product on a public forum ...but doing a little searching for phrases like "exhaust drone" or other similar phrases will bring the info you want. If you contact me privately, I'll give you my honest opinion. That's it as far as what little I know....hope this helps. Regards, Chuck

I've never had an M3, so I'm not qualified to make a comparison or give an opinion, but I've had a 99 996 C2, and currently have an 87 930S and an 02 996TT. Having both the air cooled and water cooled varieties gives me the best of both worlds, however since I'm a bit older than a lot of the folks on these forums, I'm coming to appreciate the comfort and amenities of the TT a bit more. One thing you will notice I'm sure is that it doesn't ride quite as softly as the M3, and it has a bit more road noise.....but the power and performance never fail to put a smile on my face. Although it will get up to 24 mpg when driven with a very light touch....I find that I seldom get more than 14 mpg drivng around the city...but will get up to 23 on the highway until I feel "the need". I don't think you'll regret getting a TT...and for very little extra expense ($2-3K) you can do some aftermarket performance enhancing additions that will elicit an "Oh MY" from the wife.....or in my case..."I'm not riding with you anymore". There is a method in the madness. :)

Edwin's right.....I was at an independent Porsche shop the other day when a customer came in with a headlight out and they changed it out in about 10 minutes for $40 plus tax. So your $335 quote sounds a bit like highway robbery (literally). What highway are you driving on? I'd change routes if I were you. :) Best of luck.. Chuck

Get a quote from Jeff Clark at Sunset Porsche in Oregon....google them....they consistently have the best prices I've found. Let me know what their quote is....I might order a spare. Chuck

I bought my accumulator from Sunset Porsche for about....IIRC....$95 or so, and the install was less than an hour's work....once they have it up on a lift you can access it from underneath....given the fact its flammable and hard to get to....I'd just pay to have it done....then you have no worries about it being installed right....unless you're proficient with this sort of thing.

Meben: HOWEVER....if you'd like to send me a $100 Western Union money order....I'll tell you how to join up.... Oh...and by the way.....welcome to the forum. Lots of folks here to give you some valuable advice and directions.

Most of the time it ends up being the accumulator...but it can end up being both. Remember...that Pentosin is HIGHLY flammable and under pressure. Do yourself a favor and do a search for a DIY on changing it out before you start...there are a number of articles written on the subject in the various Porsche forums.

Yes GIAC offers a flashload....but they're a bit more expensive than some of the other competition....for example, when I checked into their X50 flash, they wanted $3,000. I ended up going to UMW and got it for $1295. The cost of a lot of the flash tunes are coming down as of recently......maybe it's the state of the economy....or maybe it's just that more competition is driving the prices down. Do your homework and don't just take the word of one or two folks....we all have our favorites and usually end up recommending what we happen to be running in our respective cars. On Rennlist there was a poll taken on who uses which brand with comments from quite a few folks on the pros and cons of the various tunes....go do a search there...try here too as well as over on Six Speed. Some are definitely better than others....look not only for recommendations....but also ongoing support and the ones that use the OBDII port rather than taking out and sending in your DME for an electronic lobotomy. Some vendors sell you the device that you keep in your possession that plugs into your OBD port and allows you to flash back to your stock map or to invoke different maps for different octane ratings....race gas etc. Those cost more so it depends upon what you are looking to do...what's your goal? Since I dont track my car, I just got the flash and did my diverter valves and upgraded the wastegate....

What's the scheduled change-out for the drive belt on the 02TT? Isn't it a serpentine that runs most of everything back there?

Dus10: I had no comment about APR's standing in the tuning marketplace or that they aren't a viable competitor for the tuning market....only that I would have reservations about offering up my car as a beta platform when there are established folks out there who have tried and true tunes for the X50. Thus far you've come up with verbatim extracts from what sounds like a product information sheet and pictures of the company......as well as a reference to the fact the UMW operates out of a residential address....which has little or no relevance to anything except to provide an entre' into the pictures of APR's layout. You appear to be much more than a simple consumer.....which in itself I have no problem with...but as Shakespeare said...Methinks the lady doth protest too much. I wish APR well and every success in their venture into the marketplace and hope they find an X50 testbed....and maybe in time you can become the VP of marketing.