Jump to content

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses

Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help...  THANK YOU!

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Porschetech3

  1. As others have mentioned , your clutch is probably worn, one indication that your clutch is worn is high pedal effort. As the disc wears, the leverage of the diaphragm increases causing increased clamp pressure and pedal effort. The new design of the Sachs SAC (self adjusting clutch) used in the 997s and up, keeps the same effort as the disc wears. As mentioned it will be a good time to verify/address your IMS, RMS, and AOS while the trans is out. Also I would suggest a new synchronizer set for 2nd gear (and the pop-out deterrent)while the gear box is out. It does not require a full disassembly since the 1st -2nd loose gears and syncros plus reverse are the first thing to come off the shaft. IF not addressed immediately the continuous grinding will cause the teeth on the loose gear wheel to be damaged. It is very common for the 2nd gear syncros to wear on these gearboxes as they usually see the most aggressive shifts.
  2. The 1999 3.4 and the 2001 3.4 are nearly identical. The 99 uses a cable throttle body and DME 5.2.2 where as the 01 uses e-gas and DME 7.2. Your 99 wiring harness will also have a few extra wires for the Tiptronic change-over valve. ALL you really need to do to use the 2001 3.4 in a 1999 3.4 car is to swap the intake , throttle body and wire harness from the 99 engine to the 01 engine.(and of course remove the flywheel and clutch and install the flexplate).
  3. The crankcase vacuum that you listed as 2.5 in/h2o is too low. I normally see twice that much. Recheck this value and if it is still 2.5 in/h2o), check the bellows at the AOS to see if it is collapsed. The bellows is the rubber accordion looking hose that attaches the AOS to the head. I have seen this hose get soft/collapse/split many more times than I have seen the AOS fail, which is also quite common, except when the AOS fails the vacuum reading will be high (> 7.0 in/h2o). Check this and if it's not the source of the problem, I have many more suggestions/tests that I can give. lol
  4. Yep..some will wear the chain and pads a bit more without the "extra" oiling from the oil ports, although there is a lot of oil slinging around inside the cover. The details really do make a difference.Back in my early racing days I had a saying "the "best " way to get 100 extra horsepower is to find 1 horsepower in 100 different places"
  5. Your welcome !! Glad the spring made it !!! As far as the allocation of the actuator pads, looking at the engine from the front (crank pulley side) the pads with oil holes go to the advanced (right side), which on bank 1 will be away from the solenoid, and on bank 2 will be next to the solenoid. Also you mentioned the earlier engines having a different shuttle valve/barbell like piston, the different one you are referring to.is actually a bank 2 shuttle valve/barbell. There was an earlier version that was superseded for 99 up but that picture you were referring to was a bank 2
  6. Anyone with a 996 should be interested in a spare engine. If you never use it , it will just look nice sitting on the stand in the corner. And it would be a great accessory if you decided to sell the car. Who would not want a spare engine with your purchase? Then if the Porsche Gods strike you with a lightning bolt, you could be back up and running next day !! And not have to go through Porsche withdrawals while you repair your engine, you could take your time. All kidding aside , a rebuilt engine sitting on stand would be a nice thing to have, but there are engines sitting in warehouses that can be had in a day or two. And I would really be skeptical of a DIY rebuild with my purchase knowing all the intricacies of these engines.( Although I have seen a few DIY rebuild threads on here that I would defiantly trust !!)
  7. I agree !! Designed for a tech with three SMALL hands !! My two big hands require way too much finesse.
  8. Air pockets !! . Must use an evacuation tool on these watercooled Porsches !!
  9. Looking at the engine from the front ( crank pulley side)., all 5 chains, 4 cams, crank, IMS turn clockwise.To advance the intake cams the adjusters must move the cam-to-cam chains to the right. On bank 1 that of course will be toward the crank, and bank 2 will be away from the crank. Because the adjusters are mounted physically face-to-face, they must literally move opposite directions to physically move the chains the same direction. The pads with the o-ring and 2 oil holes will be on the right (advance) side.
  10. I have 3 m/96 engines in 3 different running cars ! Plus 1 m/96 rebuilt on a stand for a spare, plus extra everything for spare parts. I have a 99 Coupe, a 99 Cab, an 02 986 with a 3.2 s motor in it. I have saved quite a lot of m/96 parts , but I have let even more get away before I decided to start keeping them.
  11. Yea JFP, he is probably knee deep in the m/96 jungle by now !! Loosing a 2 tanks of coolant immediately and not knowing where its going does indeed sound like a serious problem.( unless of course it just wasn't full to begin with after the crash). He could be dealing with the crash repair shop, his insurance company ect, I'll go back and edit my mean post because its been only a few weeks, and he is not repairing it on flat rate.
  12. BTW your spring is in the mail !!! Yea I had read that post earlier, I thought it was interesting the OP had the Hartech cylinders re-rounded and the support o-ring installed. I had a local machine shop do one like that for one on my m96 engines. ( I have 3 of them).
  13. Abandoned thread? What was final determination of what happened? Just wasn't properly filled after front end crash???? I hate threads like these, just abandoned, they should be updated.
  14. The shifter neutrally spring loaded to the 3-4 gate..very light spring pressure is overcome to move to the 1-2 gate, very stiff spring pressure is overcome to move to the R gate, light spring pressure is overcome to move to the 5-6 gate.The three different spring pressures give a different "feel" to the gates to allow identifying which gate your going into.The springs are in the trans case. Could be a broken/stuck/missing spring causing you to not be able to differentiate between the gates.
  15. The check/fill tube on a 996 can be viewed as a temporary "overflow tube" and NEVER to be used above 40c as high temperature will cause too much fluid to "overflow". On final topping up or checking of fluid level the trans temp must be WELL under 30c with engine running, the fluid is slightly overfilled until it is running over the overflow tube. then is allowed to drip/spill over as the temp rises the fluid EXPANDS.When temp reaches 30c NOT TO EXCEED 40c. the plug is reinstalled. I consider 30c the "FULL" mark ,and 40c the "ADD" mark. Anything under 30c will result in an overfill, and anything over 40c will result in underfill.
  16. Well good for you !! Looks like you have solved another P1341 mystery!! Yes we are talking about the same part. The valve that is actuated by the solenoid is spring loaded to press upward to the solenoid. There is a little spring the size of a fountain pen spring (except shorter) that fits the recess in the bottom of the valve. When the solenoid is energized it pushes the valve down to send oil to the actuator, when not energized the spring pushes the valve up(closing off the oil) I actually lost the first spring as it came out I didn't catch it and it hit the floor and went who knows where. I have another one in a envelope so I don't lose it . If you PM me your address I'll mail it to you. And yes you had the valve upside down.The recess and spring go at the bottom.Looks like you will be motoring soon !!
  17. I just looked at one of the ones I have , I think the divot that you are talking about is actually a spring guide. There is a spring in the bottom that pushes the valve toward the solenoid.The valve installs with the recess pointing down toward the spring. Is your spring still in there? And a plug in the bottom with a small hole? Take some pictures of the actuator in this valve area top and bottom.
  18. I have probably close to a dozen of these in my basement.. I don't know which ones have not been "molested"..lol .I'll look at them and see if I can tell what your taking about and get a definitive answer.
  19. DISCLAIMER: DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME: FOR PROFESSIONAL USE ONLY: I have used this procedure since the 80's to clear bad data and do a hard reset on the KAM of all kinds of manufacturers brands and have never had a problem with it. While simply disconnecting the battery will reset in a lot of cases, it depends on the internal circuitry if the capacitors circuits have enough internal resistance to deplete them. That said I will not advise anyone who is uncomfortable about this to do it even if you remove the battery and place it 10 feet from the car...lol I have seen many many fried radios, amps, CD changers, control units,by accidentally reversing polarity, from people in the Auto business (mostly salesmen) just from attempting to swap a battery or jump a car.This link is from a RangeRover site. Since I am not going to advise anyone to do this (even if you remove the battery completely and put it 2 arms length away from the car) I will not have to advise you to remove any accessory( ie GPS, Ipod ect ) that has batteries., any additional batteries like for high powered radio, any high powered amps or capacitors. http://s260.photobucket.com/user/GearShift2008/media/6-Speedadaptionsreset.jpg.html?src=pb&evt=detail_facebook_share
  20. Well I was sure at the time I said it.. but now not so much !!! lol ... I will go look at my PST2 and see.. I mainly used the PST2 on 996 and 986 because it does many more functions and special actions than even the newer PIWIS or PIWISII . I can say that I haven't really used the Durametric but a couple times a friend has one that I looked at with him on his car.
  21. The actuator for bank 1 should have a casting on it that says ZYL 1-3 between the solenoid and the pad.. the lower pad (or inward pad) should have 2 small holes and a green o-ring on it. the upper (or outer) pad does not. The bank 2 side will be opposite.
  22. Another suggestion that I have came across is that the adjusters are bank specific.I have seen them switched and also have seen a replacement installed that ended up with two bank 2 adjusters.This can cause the cam timing to be off up to 12.5 degrees even though the cam-to-cam and exhaust cam timing procedure was precisely followed. If none of this is the case, I have one more WILD case I remember with this code. After an engine was improperly timed and grossly out of time. it was put back in time and this code was present. Timing was check and rechecked , adjuster was replaced with known good one, sensor was replaced with known good one, wiring all tested good. Cam deviations were ERRATIC. Engine ran great. Just for ****s and giggles I did a HARD RESET of the DME,ie disconnected the the positive battery cable and touched it to the negative side (grounding the positive to deplete all capacitors).This cured the problem evidently the DME had LEARNED some bad data that it would not turn lose of.
  23. Cam deviations are displayed in cam degrees The adjuster/actuator can advance/retard intake cam timing 12.5 degrees(25 crank degrees) The DME really has no way to monitor the exhaust cam timing, the cam setting procedure ASSUMES by setting the cam timing on the EXHAUST that the INTAKE timing will be at a certain value(if the cam-to cam chain,pads,adjuster are all in spec). The DME only monitors INTAKE cam setting and movement. Ahsai, I have a pet project I would like you to be involved in. I saw from your oil temp control circuit your are just the electronics guru that can pull it off. I want a track friendly oil pressure warning light that can vary along with RPM's to catch oil pressure deviations at high RPMs. I think a lot of crank/rod failures happen with momentary dips in oil pressure that cannot be caught or seen while in high G-force situations.If you are running 5k-7k rpm's and your oil pressure keeps diping below 3 bar, it can't take that very many times before it will spin a bearing and/or break a rod. We can start a new thread for this.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.